ZM!
Started stuffing the SissySIT boards last night. The boards I have are from this years kit—green—single mosfet spot. They are marked "2019"—schematic on first page of this thread seems to be the most current with 10K in R9-R12 and the schematic I'm working from (and why I'm posting in this thread). BUT— You included some 3k3R and 6k8R in the kit (2 each—don't see on the schematic 2018 where they would go)—and I added 1K (R15) and some 100R (R21, and flying) from my stash—just want to make sure I have the right schematic! —nothing soldered yet. Building as monoblocks by the way.
Started stuffing the SissySIT boards last night. The boards I have are from this years kit—green—single mosfet spot. They are marked "2019"—schematic on first page of this thread seems to be the most current with 10K in R9-R12 and the schematic I'm working from (and why I'm posting in this thread). BUT— You included some 3k3R and 6k8R in the kit (2 each—don't see on the schematic 2018 where they would go)—and I added 1K (R15) and some 100R (R21, and flying) from my stash—just want to make sure I have the right schematic! —nothing soldered yet. Building as monoblocks by the way.
Niiiiiiiiceeee! I think I'm getting the changes—so, the below is also a synopsis for new builders. How about post #1500 which seems to have an update to the update? (just asking—you did send 3K3 not 5K6).
Just to clarify—R21 IS formerly flying lead? Or, still need flying lead? Seems R21 is it, based on posts. #1534 seems to answer this AND the question above about #1500. My wires to SIT will be short, I will ignore the schematic in post #1500.
Still follow notes for Borbely pins to try (you sent pins)? Or? (I DO like sugar, not in my coffee though.) Looks like new board is missin RB and CB, so guessing this option was—deleted?
Do we still flip ZD1?
I'm using Cinemags so C3,R11 don't apply (formerly R13).
Thanks ZM, glad I asked before heat!!!—will recheck all with "new" R2 schematic. Might be back with more ?????.
Just to clarify—R21 IS formerly flying lead? Or, still need flying lead? Seems R21 is it, based on posts. #1534 seems to answer this AND the question above about #1500. My wires to SIT will be short, I will ignore the schematic in post #1500.
Still follow notes for Borbely pins to try (you sent pins)? Or? (I DO like sugar, not in my coffee though.) Looks like new board is missin RB and CB, so guessing this option was—deleted?
Do we still flip ZD1?
I'm using Cinemags so C3,R11 don't apply (formerly R13).
Thanks ZM, glad I asked before heat!!!—will recheck all with "new" R2 schematic. Might be back with more ?????.
well, do with values I sent - it's not that critical, later values are gilding the lily
R21 - do what you like - put shortie on pcb then flying R21, or leave R21 on pcb, if your wires are really short
Borbelly WCF option is deleted in his iteration.... reason - too much of good thing
ZD1 is properly oriented, pcb being strictly for SissySit
I believe I soldered C3, so just do not mount 10K in series
ask what you need - better safe than sorry
R21 - do what you like - put shortie on pcb then flying R21, or leave R21 on pcb, if your wires are really short
Borbelly WCF option is deleted in his iteration.... reason - too much of good thing
ZD1 is properly oriented, pcb being strictly for SissySit
I believe I soldered C3, so just do not mount 10K in series
ask what you need - better safe than sorry
Some progress—swarf flying!
I was sceptical about the boards mounting only from the bottom arrangement—It's VERY solid however! (I never really doubted the ZM)
ZM—here's the part number for the "keratherm-like" interface material, I think I found it in this thread?—figured I should clear this with you—someplace I read about a failure of yours due to some PN mix-up with what you usually use:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Wakefield-Vette/CD-02-05-C-54?qs=%2Fha2pyFaduh0F4hFo2nS38fKWVNNydShujAS4R6gXeDb8AV1LJEUkvoYvPlcpBsT
It's pretty thin stuff—I sanded the area and will super inspect for metal shavings.
Also decided to not be a sissy and go with larger sinks—was going to go 120mm x 400mm—which I think would have worked? But this amp has higher opperating amperage than any others I've built so far, so 4U height. And unobtanium parts to worry about. M4 on the SIT bolts, ground ring under the insulator bushing.... nothing soldered yet.
I was sceptical about the boards mounting only from the bottom arrangement—It's VERY solid however! (I never really doubted the ZM)
ZM—here's the part number for the "keratherm-like" interface material, I think I found it in this thread?—figured I should clear this with you—someplace I read about a failure of yours due to some PN mix-up with what you usually use:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Wakefield-Vette/CD-02-05-C-54?qs=%2Fha2pyFaduh0F4hFo2nS38fKWVNNydShujAS4R6gXeDb8AV1LJEUkvoYvPlcpBsT
It's pretty thin stuff—I sanded the area and will super inspect for metal shavings.
Also decided to not be a sissy and go with larger sinks—was going to go 120mm x 400mm—which I think would have worked? But this amp has higher opperating amperage than any others I've built so far, so 4U height. And unobtanium parts to worry about. M4 on the SIT bolts, ground ring under the insulator bushing.... nothing soldered yet.
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though - for IRFP, I would use either Keratherm from Store , or Mica and goop, or that funny Alumina brick (+ goop) everyone are talking about and I didn't tried it , but no reason to be suspicious
other types of isolators I can't comment , I didn't use them
again - for SIT - isolator is not critical, due to sheer size of its case
other types of isolators I can't comment , I didn't use them
again - for SIT - isolator is not critical, due to sheer size of its case
Someone maybe you once posted a Mouser link to those insulators, would you happen to have it? I think I will try those. I've had good luck carefully inspecting and reusing keratherm. Was reusing some the other day and put pin holes in them in process. They had been in place in M2 for 2 or 3 years. If this insulator works as good as all day, I'm in!
Russellc
Wish Modushop and store would stock a mono block chassis similar to your build. I think it would sell like hotcakes.
Seems it would be cheaper by some margin than a two heatsink chassis, and budget builders could buy them one at the time.
Russellc
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Aavid/4180G?qs=%2Fha2pyFaduidM2F%252BoP061oKoPkuzrhH%2F4dg8IzsYfNU%3D
With paste as ZM said.
And YES! My secret plan with these monos is to work out issues for a store version based on stock sinks (you didn't read that. =)
DIY PSU will fit. Already tested that in M2X. One detail is the top and bottom plates sit proud of the sinks/side plate and overlap a bit with the stock rails—which I'm not using. Also my bottom plate is .25"...but all easily adapted.
Along with Iron Pre cases... also in the works!
Wow—Amazon. Didn't think of that. They are 1mm, the Aavid variety are slightly over 2mm. Dunno if that matters, likely not.
With paste as ZM said.
And YES! My secret plan with these monos is to work out issues for a store version based on stock sinks (you didn't read that. =)
DIY PSU will fit. Already tested that in M2X. One detail is the top and bottom plates sit proud of the sinks/side plate and overlap a bit with the stock rails—which I'm not using. Also my bottom plate is .25"...but all easily adapted.
Along with Iron Pre cases... also in the works!
Wow—Amazon. Didn't think of that. They are 1mm, the Aavid variety are slightly over 2mm. Dunno if that matters, likely not.
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Very nice (as always)
I was contemplating on something similar for my f4, but in a stereo chassis. slice the chassis in a left/right halve, turn them 90° (so that the back connect and the front-halves become left/right. Output on the sides, input in the center (rear or top) Not very effizient but fun...
Your monos are awesome. I hope you do. Keep us posted. Nothing short of inspirational.
Don