I would probably be good to use a heavy chassis for the Korg and place it on a wall mounted turntable shelf?
Naim audio’s CDI and other products had the PCBs mounted on springs alowing +/- 4mm of movement in every direction but up. ( gravity) The board was floating on these springs and the wire connection just had a small loop prior to it s attachment to the location on the board. Other boards they used leaf springs.
I can’t recall having an issue when I owned one way back...with the wiring.
Anybody ever attached a piezo-microphone to one of these? I bet mixing it with the music would be fun
dual pinout is for Sissies
Real Men are bending pins
A triangular footprint on the PCB would avoid most problems that I can think of, even with bipolars and MOSFETs. With JFETs you can swap Drain and Source on almost all parts used in Audio. But, some of the less experienced among us will inevitably get it wrong. 🙁
Thinking back I believe they fixed the board (5mm plastic stand offs) to a slab of copper 3mm thick size as the pcb and suspended the copper off the chassis via springs...I have photos some were. My issue is as stated prior I use a steel 5 tier eq shelf which rings like a B@@@rd. So will be producing a wooden wall shelf along with other vibration nulling techniques for the xmas nutube.
I'm good for 80db listening levels no probs but 85-90db (bass dependant) not so good... I hear you say turn the vol down then...🙁
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I wasn’t recommending anything drastic. Try loosening the standoffs a quarter turn or so at the baseplate — just a little loose. No risk of them coming out if the amp stays stationary.
You could use Loctite 243 thread locking glue to fix it. Should work even with the nut not screw compeletly down.
Has anyone experimented with crystals to absorb vibration? It ought to be relatively cheap and straightforward to mix some powdered quartz or black tourmaline into hot glue and stick down the Nutube.
I'm open-minded about this kind of thing - there's a dude over on Head-fi, Richard, who swears by crystals placed strategically around his house to clean the grid, as he puts it. He appears sane in other regards. That thread is about a TDA1543-based NOS DAC which, maddeningly in my experience, has two modes of performance - meh or OMFG and no way of telling which you're going to get on any given day, even within the same system.
I just thought I'd put that out there, whilst we are talking about anti-vibration strategies. I know Acoustic Revive in Japan are big on using quartz to damp vibration.
Worth pursuing, or strictly hocus-pocus?
I'm open-minded about this kind of thing - there's a dude over on Head-fi, Richard, who swears by crystals placed strategically around his house to clean the grid, as he puts it. He appears sane in other regards. That thread is about a TDA1543-based NOS DAC which, maddeningly in my experience, has two modes of performance - meh or OMFG and no way of telling which you're going to get on any given day, even within the same system.
I just thought I'd put that out there, whilst we are talking about anti-vibration strategies. I know Acoustic Revive in Japan are big on using quartz to damp vibration.
Worth pursuing, or strictly hocus-pocus?
It seems like I found an error on the circuit board. On the input capacitor of 10 uf on the positive side. It is connected in parallel with 2 resistance that of 1K and 332K. While this one should only connect with a 1K. The 332K should be plugged into the gate of the Jfet.
Please validate if you have this problem.
Please validate if you have this problem.
1k resistor on the schematic is before 2 x 332k resistors, but it is on the other side (closer to Jfet) on the board. I think it doesn't matter...
I am skeptical.
According to me the 2 Jfet must be balanced by the 2 resistors of 332K.
We end up with an input resistance of around 950R to the input ??
I do not understand 😉
According to me the 2 Jfet must be balanced by the 2 resistors of 332K.
We end up with an input resistance of around 950R to the input ??
I do not understand 😉
Probably snake oil BUT... there is an aspect to constrained-layer damping to what you describe. And the varying masses of the adhesive and whatever you mixed into it, may have an effect to damp the ringing filament in some meaningful way.
I.E., it's worth a try.
Hello Qwertyl,
OK, I just understood what you mean.
You are probably right. This should not change the circuit.
Thank you for giving me a little clarity. 😉
OK, I just understood what you mean.
You are probably right. This should not change the circuit.
Thank you for giving me a little clarity. 😉
So people more or less skilled with point to point soldering can follow the schematic without problems?
See post 1264 for example
Or this one if you ignore R1s: www.firstwatt.com/pdf/art_diy_nutube_preamp.pdf
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