I think for resistors (and most other components) stability is important e.g. low temp drift, low inductance, low noise. Tolerance also. Nice to get resistors in 1% or lower. Mechanical stability is also important. I have used many different brands of resistors and never had any problems. I don't think I can hear difference between them. This time I have decided for the Vishay Dale. They look good and I am sure they are "good enough" 🙂 …..they have mil spec and very good specifications. But again…..don't think I would be able to hear the difference between the normal Vishay 1% metal film resistors and the Dale variant or the TE Connectivity stuff or other quality resistors. Some like carbon resistors because they have low inductance and capacity and they think they can hear difference among resistors. As long as it is high quality resistors I don't think anybody would pass a blind test...….
I second that!
I just use the 1% tolerance resistors I have floating around. Usually some metal film types.
Does anybody have the precise distances for the screw hole mounts on the Pass Xmas board/DIY Store board?
I thought I would drill chassis holes for the board alter in preparation.
I thought I would drill chassis holes for the board alter in preparation.
Does anybody have the precise distances for the screw hole mounts on the Pass Xmas board/DIY Store board?
I thought I would drill chassis holes for the board alter in preparation.
See post #381 by Nelson Pass:
“Board is 5.5" x 3.25" mounting holes 5.0" x 2.75"
A good read!!!!!
A nice Stereophile piece on 2nd harmonic distortion, Burning Amp, and "AmpMaster" Pass on the mag's website. Click here:
Gramophone Dreams #26: Nelson Pass & Harmonic Distortion | Stereophile.com
A nice Stereophile piece on 2nd harmonic distortion, Burning Amp, and "AmpMaster" Pass on the mag's website. Click here:
Gramophone Dreams #26: Nelson Pass & Harmonic Distortion | Stereophile.com
Has anyone created a BOM yet (not that it is hard making a list from the schematic)? With Mouser part order numbers? Am I lazy or just wanting to conserve futilities?
6L6: I am curious, did you slide the foam pads under the NuTube after you had slipped its pins into the board holes? I noticed that the stickiness factor of them is extreme and was wondering what is the best approach. Lots of pins, which are easily bent, and lots of stickum make for an interesting dance of one's digits.
Has anyone created a BOM yet (not that it is hard making a list from the schematic)? With Mouser part order numbers? Am I lazy or just wanting to conserve futilities?
See post #1268 by Nelson Pass.
http://www.firstwatt.com/pdf/art_diy_nutube_preamp.pdf
His BOM references Digi-Key part numbers.
Has anyone created a BOM yet (not that it is hard making a list from the schematic)? With Mouser part order numbers? Am I lazy or just wanting to conserve futilities?
Following BOM is based on the PCB silk screened values, not the schematic:
Mouser Electronics
Re: Two-sided tape and pins, the NuTube was already installed in the board, floating as it were, about the same thickness of 2 layers of the foam tape. I bent the NuTube up a bit and placed the tape under, on the board, and stuck the NuTube down on it.
Can anybody help? I am attempting to build the NuTube B1 as a hybrid power amp in tandem with a battery powered Bottlehead Quicksand (capable of running 16-24V). Most of my issue pertains to the NuTube B1 requiring regulated power.
What would be the best way to regulate 24V via battery to the NuTube B1? Could/should I have a battery bank that is 16V and then use a step-up regulator just between B1? A battery bank that is over 24V and regulate that down for both B1 and Quicksand? BTW, I know little about electronics (sorry).
What would be the best way to regulate 24V via battery to the NuTube B1? Could/should I have a battery bank that is 16V and then use a step-up regulator just between B1? A battery bank that is over 24V and regulate that down for both B1 and Quicksand? BTW, I know little about electronics (sorry).
If the Quiksand can run from 24v, than use 24v battery and connect to the NuTube B1 directly. It doesn't really need to be regulated as it will be quiet. Be extremely careful with polarity and batteries, they can supply amazing amounts of current and burn stuff out when shorted.
Anyway, it's quite possible that this will be a better solution for powering the NuTube B1 -
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/w...MIgYn0yd-Z4AIVQ77ACh0i8QUCEAYYAiABEgLuePD_BwE
Anyway, it's quite possible that this will be a better solution for powering the NuTube B1 -
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/w...MIgYn0yd-Z4AIVQ77ACh0i8QUCEAYYAiABEgLuePD_BwE
If the Quiksand can run from 24v, than use 24v battery and connect to the NuTube B1 directly. It doesn't really need to be regulated as it will be quiet. Be extremely careful with polarity and batteries, they can supply amazing amounts of current and burn stuff out when shorted.
Anyway, it's quite possible that this will be a better solution for powering the NuTube B1 -
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/w...MIgYn0yd-Z4AIVQ77ACh0i8QUCEAYYAiABEgLuePD_BwE
Thanks
There is a 2 week wait for the tubes mind as they are currently on backorder!
Ok, I was planning to ship the remaining boards (see here) on Saturday, but I think it would make sense to wait for nutubes from Puggie. Please let me know if you want your board to be shipped as soon as possible.
Ok, I was planning to ship the remaining boards (see here) on Saturday, but I think it would make sense to wait for nutubes from Puggie. Please let me know if you want your board to be shipped as soon as possible.
That sounds good. I can wait for it to be shipped together.
That sounds good. I can wait for it to be shipped together.
Me too.
- Home
- Amplifiers
- Pass Labs
- B1 with Korg Triode