Goldpoint SA2 NuTube
I already had the SA2 from a few years back before I built the B1. I decided to tether it to my NuTube. Parts arrived today.
I already had the SA2 from a few years back before I built the B1. I decided to tether it to my NuTube. Parts arrived today.
Attachments
To the extent the balanced channels are matched, they will cancel, leaving
5th. You can unbalance the 2nd harmonic if you like - the channels are
adjustable as described in the article. You could set one side at negative
phase and the other at positive, or simply make them unequal in
amplitude but not phase.
Last edited:
Thank you for your wise words, Papa!
My very limited knowledge whispered to me:
You will run into trouble because of your balanced mania!
This will be a very serious toy.
I'm very excited, where it will be ending.
Which Dale resistors would fit best for the Korg PCB. I am thinking of the non-power resistors. Will RN55 or RN60 be the best choice?
For the 10uf caps, can I use some nice non-polar boutique caps, or does it have to be caps with polarity?
Some say one of the reason why peoole liking tube amps is that you can use smaller value caps with higher quality than electrolytic.
Some say one of the reason why peoole liking tube amps is that you can use smaller value caps with higher quality than electrolytic.
Last edited:
The brown resistors you see many use are Vishay Dale. RN55 series are physical small. RN60 larger…..and so on. You can see both sizes in above pictures.
I was entertaining the idea of using a few of these: Charcroft Z-Foil and S-Foil | Hifi Collective
But not all of them.
But not all of them.
So, how come some resistor types are preferable? Yes, sound. But what parameters? What parameters can be the ones correlating to sound quality? Tolerance? Aging. Stability over temperature change? Brand? Material? (I should shut up, I have tantalum resistors in my Borbely RIAA.)
I would think most important are gain devices (trannies), then capacitors, then resistors slightly ahead of the terminal connecting +24V to the PCB.
Got my PCB and JFEts today, thank you all involved, especially Nelson and Przem the European Dealer.
I would think most important are gain devices (trannies), then capacitors, then resistors slightly ahead of the terminal connecting +24V to the PCB.
Got my PCB and JFEts today, thank you all involved, especially Nelson and Przem the European Dealer.
I think for resistors (and most other components) stability is important e.g. low temp drift, low inductance, low noise. Tolerance also. Nice to get resistors in 1% or lower. Mechanical stability is also important. I have used many different brands of resistors and never had any problems. I don't think I can hear difference between them. This time I have decided for the Vishay Dale. They look good and I am sure they are "good enough" 🙂 …..they have mil spec and very good specifications. But again…..don't think I would be able to hear the difference between the normal Vishay 1% metal film resistors and the Dale variant or the TE Connectivity stuff or other quality resistors. Some like carbon resistors because they have low inductance and capacity and they think they can hear difference among resistors. As long as it is high quality resistors I don't think anybody would pass a blind test...….
Hello,
The board has arrived today! Many thanks to Qwertyl for taking over the distribution in Europe. Big THNX also to Mr. Nelson Pass for this xmas gift!
Now I just have to get some parts ...
Best Regards,
Stephan
The board has arrived today! Many thanks to Qwertyl for taking over the distribution in Europe. Big THNX also to Mr. Nelson Pass for this xmas gift!
Now I just have to get some parts ...
Best Regards,
Stephan