Go back to the original picture -- you got the IN ground and signal reversed? Or are you using red for ground?
You’ve probably ruled it out, but just for those playing at home: you are using Fairchild jfets, correct?
if you don't have 9V1 where it must be, start with that
pull one pin of 9V1 zener out and test it with diode test of your DMM
pull one pin of 9V1 zener out and test it with diode test of your DMM
Today I upgraded the B1K PSU.
The external 24V PSU is LM317 based, built on perf board with lots of pre-filtering. I also added a half wave rectifier/regulator PSU PCB left over from another project for 12V/-12V for a Muse volume control (when I get around to ordering/installing!).
Still have T7/T8 at 9.5V. Haven’t got around to experimenting yet. Listening to the new RHCP album now and it sounds VERY good!
The external 24V PSU is LM317 based, built on perf board with lots of pre-filtering. I also added a half wave rectifier/regulator PSU PCB left over from another project for 12V/-12V for a Muse volume control (when I get around to ordering/installing!).
Still have T7/T8 at 9.5V. Haven’t got around to experimenting yet. Listening to the new RHCP album now and it sounds VERY good!
Attachments
@Zen Mod - ARG! That was it. 270kOhm instead of 270 Ohm 😵😵😵
I manage to find 3x 100Ohm (3W) and tested a frankestein interim. It is alive now at 9.5V on T7. This one will be finish for Easter as a present ;-)
I manage to find 3x 100Ohm (3W) and tested a frankestein interim. It is alive now at 9.5V on T7. This one will be finish for Easter as a present ;-)
well, talk to me about that
wearing spectacles from my tender age of 15
now, one for general driving and looking at bright side of life, second ones for PC work and looking at bright side of life, third ones for work and reading and looking at bright side of life, and in most cases when working having 2x lens head thingie
good thing is that I'm not much blinder than I was Kiddo, bad thing is that eyeballs are getting elasticity of pool balls
moral of the story - use DMM instead of:
- memory,
-brain,
-eyesight,
-Guru advice,
-etc.
wearing spectacles from my tender age of 15
now, one for general driving and looking at bright side of life, second ones for PC work and looking at bright side of life, third ones for work and reading and looking at bright side of life, and in most cases when working having 2x lens head thingie
good thing is that I'm not much blinder than I was Kiddo, bad thing is that eyeballs are getting elasticity of pool balls
moral of the story - use DMM instead of:
- memory,
-brain,
-eyesight,
-Guru advice,
-etc.
I'm curious if anybody knows the brand of the resistors that are used in the B1K? I bought my kit in November 2021. Picture of the resistors in question is attached.
Just wanted to say I have now read all 375 pages of this thread 😵😱
Still loving my B1K with upgraded coupling caps, increased capacitance in the onboard PS caps, a few "nicer" signal path resistors, shielded wire, and linear PS (though I may "upgrade" the perfboard LM317 setup to PCB based shunt regulator down the road).
If I had to do the build again after knowing what I know and reading this entire thread I'd:
Still plan to upgrade the stock pot to an Academy Audio Muse volume control, really curious how that changes the sound. Also need to play around with bias, still sitting pretty at 9.5V
Still loving my B1K with upgraded coupling caps, increased capacitance in the onboard PS caps, a few "nicer" signal path resistors, shielded wire, and linear PS (though I may "upgrade" the perfboard LM317 setup to PCB based shunt regulator down the road).
If I had to do the build again after knowing what I know and reading this entire thread I'd:
- float the 270R resistor (maybe even make it 5W)
- make the 10K trimmers multi turn. The stock single turn trim pots are rather sensitive
Still plan to upgrade the stock pot to an Academy Audio Muse volume control, really curious how that changes the sound. Also need to play around with bias, still sitting pretty at 9.5V