B1 with Korg Triode

Interesting video comparing NuTube to more traditional tube pre, Sounhappy! That was a pretty clear difference even through my computer speakers. To my ears, the NuTube wins by a mile. Thanks for sharing the video!

I come from the guitar amp world...and I can tell you those two Vox guitar amps are MUCH different...it's not just the tubes. Totally different amps/speakers/cabinets. Also, a lot of guitar amp quality is "feel", not just the sound. And the sound in the room can vary greatly from the sound miked.

But I also liked the nutube amp better. And I have a Korg B1. But I would probably rather own the AC4 (the traditional amp). In fact, I own it's bigger brother.

It's interesting, the Nutube version of the Ibanez Tube Screamer pedal, which is a classic SS pedal...maybe the most famous of it's kind, gets very little respect in the guitar community. Guitarist are a pretty closed minded bunch...and we mostly buy gear in order to emulate classic sounds we've heard on records. Things like the nutube have no reference point to emulate.
 
Guitarist are a pretty closed minded bunch...and we mostly buy gear in order to emulate classic sounds we've heard on records.

That's represents also a lot a of audiophiles ! It is difficult to some to acknowledge that good gear production have not stoped 50 years ago...or to others to admits that every things older than 20 years are not necessarily garbages.
 
I've built the kit and it looks like something's not right. I'm a novice so don't really know where to start looking to find the problem.

-When I turn it on, the Korg glows blue on both sides but brighter on the left.
-When I adjust right trim pot it doesn't change anything.
-Measurements are:
T1=24V
T2=23V
T3=22V
T4=9.18V
T5=0.65V
T7=9.5V (after adjustment with trim pot)
T8=19.7V (doesn't change with turning trim pot)

Any help on where to look would be much appreciated.
 
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Joined 2019
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Here's a picture of the board. Now I know why the instructions said to place the resistors with the values upwards. Is there a photo somewhere of the bare board so I can check against that?

If you think all the resistors (on the troubled side of the board) are in the right spot (yup, always easier to diagnose incorrect resistor placement if you can read values printed on them) get some flux paste and re-flow all the solder joints starting with the resistors. Do one side of each resistor first then come back and do the other side..don’t want to overheat anything. I’d re-flow the jfets on the troublesome side as well. Visually some looked a bit off so I’d start with them first (see picture).

Good luck.
 

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>>>>>>>>>For those who have already addressed this observation, great. For us who said WTF when looking at the Fairchild transistors and noticed that though they were all J113, we might have noticed that some had KH33 or KH44 written on them as well. Been a little bit since I built the last B1 and noticed this. As I recall, there is no trouble about those numbers being different on some of the transistors, right? Everything else is swell.
 
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No problem. All of them were tested for Vp, so that they would be operating
at Idss where the Gate and Source voltages would be the same on each follower.

This allows for easy measurement of the high impedance Plate voltage of the tube.

And of course you are welcome to use the Toshiba parts....