Sorry that there wasn't a more timely reply...
Those caps will be fine. 🙂
Thanks 6L6. This is my first build ever. I have been collecting parts over the past few months. I do not have any soldering experience so I have been practicing that on a bread board. I hope to start work on my B1 next week. I'm sure I will have a few more questions before I'm done.
Thanks again,
Nikhil
B1 power by batteries
I have a question and need your help.
I am thinking to use two 12-volt batteries to power the B1.
Two 12V batteries actually gives 26.4 V 13.2 V at full load x 2, and Mr. Nelson Pass says the power is 18 to 24V.
Will there be any problem with the B1 using higher voltage?
A friend of mine has done the experiment using two 9 volt batteries and the sound is something spectacular, much better, more limpid than using the standard PSU.
Advance grateful.
jpedro
I have a question and need your help.
I am thinking to use two 12-volt batteries to power the B1.
Two 12V batteries actually gives 26.4 V 13.2 V at full load x 2, and Mr. Nelson Pass says the power is 18 to 24V.
Will there be any problem with the B1 using higher voltage?
A friend of mine has done the experiment using two 9 volt batteries and the sound is something spectacular, much better, more limpid than using the standard PSU.
Advance grateful.
jpedro
I have a question and need your help.
I am thinking to use two 12-volt batteries to power the B1.
Two 12V batteries actually gives 26.4 V 13.2 V at full load x 2, and Mr. Nelson Pass says the power is 18 to 24V.
Will there be any problem with the B1 using higher voltage?
A friend of mine has done the experiment using two 9 volt batteries and the sound is something spectacular, much better, more limpid than using the standard PSU.
Advance grateful.
jpedro
Original Pass B1 has 2X15000uf 25V caps,so NP suggested 18-24V.You can increase the voltage if you use 35V or higher caps,
Regards,
Sachin
if you already have 25V caps in your B1 , they will survive this low insignificant current draw without any problems at all
but if its a new build, 35V wont hurt, and may even have lower ESR
the higher voltage may change the bias setting
maybe a cap multiplier would make sense
but if its a new build, 35V wont hurt, and may even have lower ESR
the higher voltage may change the bias setting
maybe a cap multiplier would make sense
BOM for B1?
Does anyone have a bill of materials for the B1 for Mouser or Digikey? On other projects some folks have put together a click-through BOM that lets you just go there and a sales cart is automatically set up.
Does anyone have a bill of materials for the B1 for Mouser or Digikey? On other projects some folks have put together a click-through BOM that lets you just go there and a sales cart is automatically set up.
That is just being incredibly lazy.
haha, it is but also sometimes when your new to it it is very hard to find the parts and its nice to have a reference to go by on by someone who knows what they are talking about 🙂
Take Stranded wire for instance, i have absolutely no idea where to start in this list for appropriate wire for F5 or B1
Buy stranded online from RS Components
Buy stranded online from RS Components
18 awg stranded hookup wire is what I used mostly except.16 awg stranded hookup wire PSU connections. Get a bunch of different colors and create your own color standard. There is a vendor on here Apexjr that sells Teflon hookup wire.
I use insulated 0.6mm diameter solid core copper.
It would be cheaper to use the insulated ~0.5mm diameter cores from CAT5, but it is a lot of work to separate and straighten.
It would be cheaper to use the insulated ~0.5mm diameter cores from CAT5, but it is a lot of work to separate and straighten.
I use insulated 0.6mm diameter solid core copper.
It would be cheaper to use the insulated ~0.5mm diameter cores from CAT5, but it is a lot of work to separate and straighten.
If you require ready made twisted pairs then CAT5 is worth the effort to strip off the outer cover.
repost of incomplete post due to delay in the Forum showing my post.
It would be cheaper to use the insulated ~0.5mm diameter cores from CAT5, but it is a lot of work to separate and straighten.
If you require ready made twisted pairs then CAT5 is worth the effort to strip off the outer cover.
repost of incomplete post due to delay in the Forum showing my post.
For signal wiring inside the chassis, thinner is better.
Andrew's suggestion of CAT5 is spot on - it's a bit of work, but very worth it.
Andrew's suggestion of CAT5 is spot on - it's a bit of work, but very worth it.
Lovely! your suggestions most helpful, i heard some time ago Ethernet cable was a good choice for small signal audio so shall use that for the runs from
4x RCA > Rotary Switch > B1
the 16-18awg wire sounds good for higher power connections, also in the past have just used mains wire.
4x RCA > Rotary Switch > B1
the 16-18awg wire sounds good for higher power connections, also in the past have just used mains wire.
So the Axon 10uF caps Nelson uses in his B1 (as far as I saw in the pictures of the open case) have not a very good recommendation in the capacitor test at
Humble Homemade Hifi 😡
I tried them and they do a special sound, I like them very much! Concurrents were Clarity Cap ESA, Obbligato old ones, Cornel Dubilier KP and some other.
Well chosen Nelson! 😎
Humble Homemade Hifi 😡
I tried them and they do a special sound, I like them very much! Concurrents were Clarity Cap ESA, Obbligato old ones, Cornel Dubilier KP and some other.
Well chosen Nelson! 😎
B1 power supply
Hi 6L6,
Peter Daniel does not have any universal power supply boards now. Will the PassDIY universal power supply work in this build? Thanks!
Steve
Hi 6L6,
Peter Daniel does not have any universal power supply boards now. Will the PassDIY universal power supply work in this build? Thanks!
Steve
- Home
- Amplifiers
- Pass Labs
- B1 preamp build thread