AussieAmplifiers NX150 Spyder

[The Saint]

When will we see an end Jeffry😀

More Photos Please

How is Jopie going with his NX150 Construction?

 

[Pocoyo]

Encapsulated

My chasing will be unbelievable

Si jopie has finished his final check in NX150 board
Maybe he work on his encapsulate now

As my experience i will call him supreme master
if he cant finished in one week 😀

and in my opinion it will take more time
than me to finish NX chasing

 

[Pocoyo]

New Facelift

This is the new facelift of my frontplate

Thanks alot for si jopie for his support

any comment ?

 

[Pocoyo]

Build NX 150 Amp

Now its time to build build build

 

[Pocoyo]

Channel Ready

On Position, SIR !

 

[Pocoyo]

A Little Mods

I make some mods there

- Ni FW 100uf 35v change to BG F 100uf 50v
- Standar VR change to Bourns VR 500R

Maybe i want to change 10R 1W resistor
in output to PRP or Ricken

😀 If i have a good luck 😀

 

[Pocoyo]

Softstart

When i receive my toroids, i was surprised, why ?

The Toroids have 45v - 0 with secondary winding
and 5A each so i start to build softstart to help
this condition

I found and build beautiful softstart
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=98879

Thanks Smithy, All your PCB now ready to use
The difficult thing your component really "highend"
Hard to found in Indonesia Market, Grrr

 

[Pocoyo]

Limited Space

Due to limited space in encapsulated so

I can't use Aussie PSU III, this happen

because in the first measurement i didnt

use the softstart, because it is important

so i change PSU III with standart PSU

 

[Pocoyo]

Mr Bean Car

The standart PSU is so simple
looks like Mr Bean Car beside Mercedes S500

 

[Pocoyo]

Supply Guarantee

I resolder the Rail way of Standart PSU
with "WBT Solder"

Ready or Not, Here I Come 😀

 

[tinitus]

Re: Supply Guarantee

Sorry to be rough, but you need to improve on your solder joints

 

[FastEddy]

Jeffery: We are looking for a case for our imported AussieAmplifiers NX150-S It looks like you might have a good start. What do you have in mind for the finish?

...

Mercenary announcement: We are importing the AussieAmplifiers modules and subassemblies now = http://3dotaudio.com/ ...

 

[Pocoyo]

Re: Re: Supply Guarantee

Sorry to be rough, but you need to improve on your solder joints

----------

Hiii Tinitius 😀

That right, I solder the rail way first than after
i put some component on it, I try to make it good,
remember the hot solder vs my standart PSU PCB
oh yes i put some copper hair on it
the pcb not in a line anymore
so thats the result...ha ha ha

----------

Jeffery: We are looking for a case for our imported AussieAmplifiers NX150-S It looks like you might have a good start. What do you have in mind for the finish?

...

Mercenary announcement: We are importing the AussieAmplifiers modules and subassemblies now = http://3dotaudio.com/ ...

----------

Hiii Bro

This is the clue
All with alloy material and anodized

Regards, Jeffry

 

[FastEddy]

Jeffery:

Got any drawings or specs for the case? I assume you made this stuff at home, but it does look good enough for other hobbyists to consider ...

ED

 

[Pocoyo]

Thanks for the praise FastEddy
My nouse is like Pinochio right now

I
Front Plate
Width : 10.6 cm, Lenght : 44 cm, Thickness : 1 cm
- (width : Heatsink width + 0.6 mm)
- (0.6mm : top plate 3mm + bottom plate 3mm)

Outer frontplate shanding (elips) : 3mm - 4mm
(for top, bottom, left and right side)

II
LED Shanding ( Centre Plate )
Measure your LED than Drilling thight to hold

Than use milling machine
Width : 3cm Height : 4 cm thicknes : 6 mm
(If your LED 5 mm tall, if 4mm so thickness 7mm)

III
Bulgin switch
Drilling hole for bulgin switch (20 mm)
Milling as bulgin switch thickness 2 mm

IV
I Use Stainless block 8mm x 8mm lenght 10cm
(same as your heatsink) to unite heatsink and
front plate

make 3 hole to heatsink and 2 hole for frontplate
use 5mm screw and the screw must hold to front
plate and heatsink 5 mm deep

A
If you milling stainless block 5mm so you must
use 8 mm screw (3mm + 5mm)

B
If you dont milling
so you must use screw 13 mm (8mm + 5mm)

I give a simple picture

 

[Pocoyo]

the last encapsulated photo

before drilling for bulgin
before anodised

but has tested well
as a chair for my daugter

ha ha ha ha ha 😀

 

[The Saint]

Hi Jeffry

Good to see you have got back to completing the NX150.
Well done!

Your chassis looks excellent well done!😀

Have you seen my latest amplifier module the NXP180?

 

[The golden mean]

Hi Anthony,
can you please explain why the THD+Noise eventually diminishes at the upper audio frequencies for the NXP 180? Is it a high open loop bandwidth amp? Open loop gain is usually declining at higher frequencies and phase shift occur there making NFB less efficient.

Regards

Håkan

 

[The Saint]

Hi Håkan

The Audio Precision unit that I have here which is the ATS-2
only tests THD up to 10khz the remaining drop off in THD+N above 10khz is only noise from the amplifier.

yes the NXP180 amplifier is a very high open loop design, which is why I am getting THD figures flat to 10khz.
Unfortunatley I am not able to confirm THD above 10khz with this AP unit. I would have to spend a lot more on the top model AP
to get to do that kind of tests.

I hope this helps....🙂

 

[Pocoyo]

Hi Jeffry

Good to see you have got back to completing the NX150.
Well done!

Your chassis looks excellent well done!😀

Have you seen my latest amplifier module the NXP180?

Thanks Anthony

The best part is make a perfect chasing
Very hard to do 😀

The NXP 180 look great and why dont make it car audio
Who knows The Scuderia Ferrari is waiting ... Brooom
A lot of people here use Audison, Rockford, Sony, Alpine

Regards, jeffry