AussieAmplifiers NX150 Spyder

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The Newbee Job

This is "real" Newbee Job
Plug In & connect the AC switch 😀

Hartono if you here
i invite you to listen :bigeyes:
 

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I wish I could say my tests are any different, but I was testing my three channels in about the same way with flying wires everywhere.

I know thats just a test setup, but if you want to cancel noise in the wire, you have to twist the positive and negative together and/or add a shield. Twisting or braiding the wires as you have them looks nice but will do nothing for noise unfortunately. If you already knew that and it was just for testing, then I'm sorry, but if not, I thought I would try and help a fellow NXer out.

Let me know what you think of the noise floor. Try to be critical if you will. I know that when you get a great new thing, like these amps, working, its easy to enjoy all the good things, and overlook what bad things are there. These amps are very quiet, but I was hoping for as close to dead silence as I could get, and unfortunately, in my system this amp is noisier than my modified Acurus amp. Mind you, Noisier is absolutely a relative term, as its still very quiet. Also, though the noise floor seems higher, I will say that music emerges from blacker backgrounds, if that is possible. None the less, I would love to know if the Synergy is any quieter, and if possibly further tweaking and "dressing" will further improve the noise floor. I haven't tried new resistors yet, but I know that Cadocks and Vishays have, in the past, made my components quieter, so they may do the same here. However, Anthony told me before he thought I was hearing Shot noise, in which case only a change in transistors, i.e. active parts, will fix that.
 
H Jeffry and Matt

Jeffry Much better photos, When will you be putting the modules and power supply in that awesome chassis you have made?

The Small amount of hiss that can be heard from the loudpeakers can be removed by replacing the mosfet input devices with a suitable bipolar devices and changing some resistor values. I have tried this and the NX150 amplifier noise drops well into the back ground, so much so that it's is as if the amplifier is not turned on.
But it seems to loose something in the process, it is still very good mine you.
Either that it is some kind of Psychoacoustic thing going on.
 
Hii pjpoes

pjpoes said:
I wish I could say my tests are any different, but I was testing my three channels in about the same way with flying wires everywhere.

I know thats just a test setup, but if you want to cancel noise in the wire, you have to twist the positive and negative together and/or add a shield. Twisting or braiding the wires as you have them looks nice but will do nothing for noise unfortunately. If you already knew that and it was just for testing, then I'm sorry, but if not, I thought I would try and help a fellow NXer out.

Let me know what you think of the noise floor. Try to be critical if you will. I know that when you get a great new thing, like these amps, working, its easy to enjoy all the good things, and overlook what bad things are there. These amps are very quiet, but I was hoping for as close to dead silence as I could get, and unfortunately, in my system this amp is noisier than my modified Acurus amp. Mind you, Noisier is absolutely a relative term, as its still very quiet. Also, though the noise floor seems higher, I will say that music emerges from blacker backgrounds, if that is possible. None the less, I would love to know if the Synergy is any quieter, and if possibly further tweaking and "dressing" will further improve the noise floor. I haven't tried new resistors yet, but I know that Cadocks and Vishays have, in the past, made my components quieter, so they may do the same here. However, Anthony told me before he thought I was hearing Shot noise, in which case only a change in transistors, i.e. active parts, will fix that.

hii

in what division you change the resistor ?
input, bias or output 😀
( better learning from the expert )

even i dont have any noise in my channel
i change all the input resistor with V102
to get more detail effect 😎

for c4 si_jopie paid US$ 24 pair but
he got better voices and mid now

if you got more saving use mundorf silver in oil
change the input caps, looks what is the result
 
cable everywhere

hiii pjpoes

After i try another cable there are some different result

we use alpha cable (silver) and not twist and very meshed
no noise and hum there and use russian fighter silver cable
is look better (more focus) in sound produce

Do you use the same transformer in your nx and acurus amp
This trouble we fix with nuvotem / talema to replace china
transformer when we build LM 3886
I think transformer give this effect (hum or noise) very big

For the " Blacker Background " you can change the resistor
10R with Caddock, Vishay, PRP or Mills

for solder transistor try not more than 5 second and give
spare time to one and another solder hope your nx have
sound beautiful too
 
Hi Guys

For those that would like a power output upgrade from the NX150 Synergy Amplifier Module.

I now have some Limited Edition NX400NP Synergy Amp Modules
Only 8 of these modules will be made available, So be quick!
Power Output is rated at 220 Watt into 8 ohms
More details at web site.
 

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Those Aussie Amplifier Modules above are "plug and play" replacements for the '150s ... double the effective power (with more jolts from the power supply).

Check your email Anthony, I'll take two. 😉 ...

(FYI: your email just got bounced back = bad address? ... I'll be using the one on your site.)
 
The Saint said:
Hi Guys

For those that would like a power output upgrade from the NX150 Synergy Amplifier Module.

I now have some Limited Edition NX400NP Synergy Amp Modules
Only 8 of these modules will be made available, So be quick!
Power Output is rated at 220 Watt into 8 ohms
More details at web site.

Why soldering the TO-92 cases with zero lead lenght? This goes against manufacturer recomendations and hurts long term package reliability for sure. Think about thermal cycling.

The leads of the TO-264 devices are also very short and hard to bend and this may lead to alignment problems when trying to clamp them to the heatsink.
 
Thanks Eva

Good suggestions 🙂

I am moving more into full SMD components rather than hole through components, these days.
The NX400NL modules presented here are around 1 year old
and I had a few PCBs of these laying around so I decided to release a limited edition run of these, they perform very well
I have designed a full SMD version of this amplifier and I will be releasing it in the new year most likely in Jan 2008.
It will be the same PCB dimension only with PSU components onboard as well, so you just have to add a transformer and heat sink and you have a complete power amplifier.
 
" .. I had a few PCBs of these laying around so I decided to release a limited edition run of these, they perform very well ..."

The interesting thing I like is the optional balanced or unbalanced input(s) ... 😉 ... plus of course it is real hard without sophisticated instruments to even measure any distortion ... 😉
 
The Saint said:
Thanks Eva

Good suggestions 🙂

I am moving more into full SMD components rather than hole through components, these days.
The NX400NL modules presented here are around 1 year old
and I had a few PCBs of these laying around so I decided to release a limited edition run of these, they perform very well
I have designed a full SMD version of this amplifier and I will be releasing it in the new year most likely in Jan 2008.
It will be the same PCB dimension only with PSU components onboard as well, so you just have to add a transformer and heat sink and you have a complete power amplifier.


I LOVE SMD, its very nice and cheaper. One reason why i like my Aleph Mini's, they are all SMD except the 3Watt resistors and output transistors, i have been looking to see if i can get a Smaller packaged IRF smd version, i dont need 15watts class a, maybe build something like a 5watt smd version ( all SMD ) and see how that would work.
 
I think AussieAmplifiers.com does a very good job with the SMD parts .. us older guys do have a vision question with the teeny tiny little caps and resistors, etc. ... so I'm buying modules from now on ... My DIY with the needle nose are over, I guess. 🙄

But as long as the stuff goes together just right and sound better and better ... 😀

The Saint's plan to make semi complete sub assemblies w/ 40,000 uF & fast diodes, etc. etc. ... is good (pictured @ http://www.aussieamplifiers.com/index3.htm) and I will probably get a setup, later.

Currently I have several very old QSC amp chassis that I will be converting using the xformers, I/O connectors, etc ... but with The Saint's modules = g'dam, man they sound good!
 
SMD is fragile and component values drift with mechanical stress. In power applications, I prefer to use SMD only in daughter boards because main power boards tend to be subject to bending, thermal cycling and vibration, particularly when there are heavy components like big capacitors near SMD.
 
anodize result

well ... this my anodized result

very good for
- 2 heatsink ( from junk market / PSU used )
- Top and bottom plate
- Rear plate 😀

But i very dissapointed for front plate result
looks like tiger mark :hot:

so you know why i build this take a looong time

Must shanding the front plate again
Must anodize in another time :bawling:
and im very tired
 
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