Asynchronous I2S FIFO project, an ultimate weapon to fight the jitter

[sbelyo]

@NeoTheOne , what I did for a temp setup was JB Weld some L brackets to a fused switched IEC inlet that had mounting tabs with screw holes. I can take a pic if you need it. Also if you have access to a 3D printer just make an L shaped bracket that's tall enough, then make an opening to snap in a fused IEC inlet. I could whip something up for you if you tell me what IEC inlet you want to use

 

[NeoTheOne]

@NeoTheOne , what I did for a temp setup was JB Weld some L brackets to a fused switched IEC inlet that had mounting tabs with screw holes. I can take a pic if you need it. Also if you have access to a 3D printer just make an L shaped bracket that's tall enough, then make an opening to snap in a fused IEC inlet. I could whip something up for you if you tell me what IEC inlet you want to use

A pic would surely help me a lot for reference.

 

[sbelyo]

Here's what I did... You can see the blob of epoxy on the ear of the iec inlet

 

[Ras Dan]

I Think thats Dangarious for saftey reasons you should put all mains components in a box, especially for kids and drunk people

 

[audio1901]

@badd99

This unfinished/in-progress project is based off the work by @badd99 in his post here:

https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...eapon-to-fight-the-jitter.192465/post-7569921

and his before and after sound comparison here:

https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...eapon-to-fight-the-jitter.192465/post-7570942

This project is unfinished, note the Topping A50s amp is positioned on top of the exterior r-core linear power supplies. Once I build a longer 12awg solid core GX16/2.1mm DC plug it will be moved from the left the right side of the unit where the analog output side is. Also, the wooden box inside the plastic container will be removed and the 5v linear power supply inside it will be stacked where the Topping amp is currently sitting, outside and far from the dac stack. The IanCanada PurePi/LifePO4 will be removed from the dac stack and placed where the wooden box / 5v linear power are currently sitting, a copper/aluminum barrier will be added to separate the PurePi/LifePO4 power supply from the dac.

All solid-core conductors, 3x grounding wire / copper tape / ptfe tape DeoxIT D-series red (will apply Gold G-series version as well and maybe Shield-blue series), each individual copper shield / conductive wire has a direct grounding line to the grounding bus bar. There is still one AC cable I need to construct and replace in the Furman power strip and a USB cable that will have its own 5V UCconditioner power supply for the Amanero USB module, avoiding dirty power from the computer's USB output. In the end there will be a total of 5 UcConditioner boards.

Before @badd99 post on this forum (dac assembled as pictured in IanCanada's product photos) I only had about 60% - 70% of my current audio quality. His attention to grounding/isolation/insulation made a significant difference.

 

[sbelyo]

Good god that's a lot of shielding

 

[sbelyo]

I Think thats Dangarious for saftey reasons you should put all mains components in a box, especially for kids and drunk people

Any finished project I do is fully cased and grounded. That's just a board that's used to build a temporary circuit. It never has power plugged in unless someone is in front of it

 

[thommy]

I Think thats Dangarious for saftey reasons you should put all mains components in a box, especially for kids and drunk people

You obviously haven't built many projects, They can evolve in form for a while before you work out what sort of box is required, plus the IEC in the pic is clearly insulated at the back and goes into a shrouded screw block. It's only as "dangarious" as the user anyway, sbelyo has made his testing bed much more professionally than I bother to, i just zip tie the IEC to the board, but then there are no children or drunks in my workshop.

 

[dddac]

I just made this small add-on board for my personal use of my own DDDAC1794-MK3. It is an I2S switch with 5V relays. in this case between two sources, one with UF/L (like HDMI receiver) and the other for use with a source with flatcable/pins. it uses miniature 5V signal relays. Other Voltages are also possible of course.

You see it sitting on top of the FiFoPi.


Gerber to share is attached:

 

[Gabster 2000]

@Gabster 2000 it looks like I'll be feeding my dac build with two UCPure and three LifePO4 Mini 3.3V . I'm keeping the AC transformers in one case and the DAC in the other just like yours. I noticed you used a DB15 cable to connect the two chassis together. What gauge wire did you use? The biggest I could find is 20 AWG shielded in a pre-made cable. I was worried that 20 AWG was to small. What gauge is your DB15 cable?

@sbelyo my db15 was a 17Awg
I know your dilemma they are hard to find just happened to have a vintage one.
I am planning another system and after a lot of research I figured out a better system.
They are called Aviator Plugs
This is a 16 wire version that I am interested in but thy come with less or more
https://amzn.to/3KaSoXS
also you can get a 17 AWG Cable if you don't want to do your own like this one
https://amzn.to/4atD832
I have yet to see anything bigger the 17AWG that does not cost a fortune but if you put a fuse for each line like maybe a 3A you are good as you want to avoid your wire melting in case of a short.
Hope That Helps 🙂

 

[SimonJ]

I just made this small add-on board for my personal use of my own DDDAC1794-MK3. It is an I2S switch with 5V relays. in this case between two sources, one with UF/L (like HDMI receiver) and the other for use with a source with flatcable/pins. it uses miniature 5V signal relays. Other Voltages are also possible of course.

You see it sitting on top of the FiFoPi.


Gerber to share is attached:


View attachment 1311969

View attachment 1311970

This is excellent Doede. Can you explain the switch control please? I suspect its hard to manually solder those uFL connectors or did you use a company to do that?

I see a double stacked DAC PCBs, could you share how you are powering them?

 

[sbelyo]

@sbelyo my db15 was a 17Awg
I know your dilemma they are hard to find just happened to have a vintage one.
I am planning another system and after a lot of research I figured out a better system.
They are called Aviator Plugs
This is a 16 wire version that I am interested in but thy come with less or more
https://amzn.to/3KaSoXS
also you can get a 17 AWG Cable if you don't want to do your own like this one
https://amzn.to/4atD832
I have yet to see anything bigger the 17AWG that does not cost a fortune but if you put a fuse for each line like maybe a 3A you are good as you want to avoid your wire melting in case of a short.
Hope That Helps 🙂

Yes, the best I could do was 18 AWG from Aliexpress. I think that should work fine. I used two DB9 because it was easier to find in the larger AWG and I have some 6 conductor shielded 18 AWG. It seemed to fit better in my mind instead of trying to jam two cables into one connector. I came across those aviation connectors as well. I could use them as well, I just need to find 12 conductor shielded wire in 18 AWG or better.

I'm getting close though. I will probably order the rest of the stuff I need this week. I just received a custom R Core transformer to run 3 of the LiPo mini 3.3V supplies. I decided on that design since I could have three supplies for the DAC and one supply for the Fifo Pi clean side.

 

[Jaytor]

I've used this source https://www.showmecables.com/by-category/bulk-wire-cable/tray-cable for multi-conductor shielded cables. They offer a variety of gauges and conductor counts. I've also used the aviation connectors that @Gabster 2000 referenced, but I've found there are more options on ebay than amazon.

 

[sbelyo]

That wire link is BOSS! I'll use that for when I build my electrostatic amps

 

[NeoTheOne]

Finally able to sort of finish my build. Will put it in an enclosure in a couple of months.
I would really like to thank everyone on this forum for helping me out.
I ended up using neurochrome ISS (intelligent soft start).
I also incorporated the clock dampening trick someone mentioned in this forum.

 

[NeoTheOne]

The original Dac I have before venturing into DIY. Its a twisted pear ES9038 based dac with tube output.

 

[pkonstantinidis]

@NeoTheOne Quite elaborate setup you've come up with. Well done!
Can you please explain the power supplies you've used? I can detect three shielded transformers, LinearPi, UCconditioner, UCPure. How are they connected and what are they powering?
And last but not least, how does your Ian Canada setup compare with your previous tube-based DAC?
Thanks

 

[NeoTheOne]

@NeoTheOne Quite elaborate setup you've come up with. Well done!
Can you please explain the power supplies you've used? I can detect three shielded transformers, LinearPi, UCconditioner, UCPure. How are they connected and what are they powering?
And last but not least, how does your Ian Canada setup compare with your previous tube-based DAC?
Thanks

This is my connection schematics. The change is that instead of using 4 UCPure 3.3V I am not using 2 UCPure Quad 3.3V. That reduces the transformers by 1 (3 instead of 4 in the schematics below).

 

[Gabster 2000]

@NeoTheOne that is a cool setup you got going Congrats. Now I see why there are no more Tecate UC's left at Digikey 🙂
Let us know how it sounds compared to your previous setup.

@Jaytor Thanks good link got excited for a moment as I liked the cables only to realise they will charge 223$ USD to ship a small 6 ft cable to Canada but would be good if you are in the US, also just realised that a 16 AWg 8 pair cable is 3/4 inch thick something to keep in mind for termination maybe 17 or 18 AWG is not such a bad idea.

 

[NeoTheOne]

Let us know how it sounds compared to your previous setup.

I think i'll give it a week or two before commenting on the sound of this setup vs previous one.