Thanks. Looking at a divided cab myself. Would have liked to do them as two units (to minimise vibrations caused by the mid-bass affecting the sub) but I don't have the space.
Rules... yea... well, I handed over my t*sticles on marriage (it's part of the paperwork you need to sign) so I'm under no illusions about who's the boss 😀.
Doesn't the contract require something of your soul as well?
I'm pretty sure it does. 😛Prenup's.. the best money ever spent on a Lawyer (at least in the US). 😀
Doesn't the contract require something of your soul as well?
Ah. That went years ago; as a teenage metalhead I sold it. Unfortunately, confusion caused by
resulted in me accidentally selling it to Santa 😀.
Unfortunately my room and my girlfriend will not agree with a speaker the size of the apollo so the aurora is the most exciting one for me. It looks abit like the rockoport technologies speakers which I absolutely love.
Any thoughts on size of the units - 4, 5 or 6 inch mid? i guess 4 is too small when having a sidefiring bass ?
how about the size of the woofer - 10, 12 or 15 inches ? do you lean towards one or two woofers per side ?
I would love to build something like the aurora, only with sharper edges since this would probably be easier when I have no access to cnc routers.
I'd consider a 4" on the small side depending on how low you use it and you'd have to use it fairly low if your going the side firing woofer route. My preference lies with 5.5" or 6.5" since these give a better rendition of mid bass in a 3 way yet aren't as directive as an 8"+ nor do they require a wide baffle.
Its up to you really. You'll be juggling cabinet volume versus extension and SPL when moving between sizes. Choose something that works within your brief. I often use 10" personally because its a nice blend of size and performance but there's no doubting bigger is better when it comes to bass.
Been busy in CAD again... another day, another version of the Aurora ha! I really like this one though, no really I do! I've got to because I've spent a small fortune on drivers and I think this is the combo. 6" Accuton 158-6-851 and Scan D3004-6640 Beryllium with my favourite 10" - the Peerless XLS10.
Also carried over the updated design to the standmount version and designing in provisions for the active variants now.
Also carried over the updated design to the standmount version and designing in provisions for the active variants now.
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Man, that is a beautiful design.
Regarding the Peerles XLS 10" - what kind of enclosure do you prefer it in? i see that many use with a passive radiator. I myself, would like to use that one as well but in an closed cab, perhaps two woofers per side.
I'm looking into the Audiotechnology flex unit 6H52 unit - it has an effective area of around 140 sq.cm so somewhere between 5,5 and 6,5.
Can you recommend a high resolution, well defined and neutral tweeter to go along with an audiotechnology speaker?
Will the Peerless XLS 10 inch be a bad performer when using the flex unit mid ?
Regarding the Peerles XLS 10" - what kind of enclosure do you prefer it in? i see that many use with a passive radiator. I myself, would like to use that one as well but in an closed cab, perhaps two woofers per side.
I'm looking into the Audiotechnology flex unit 6H52 unit - it has an effective area of around 140 sq.cm so somewhere between 5,5 and 6,5.
Can you recommend a high resolution, well defined and neutral tweeter to go along with an audiotechnology speaker?
Will the Peerless XLS 10 inch be a bad performer when using the flex unit mid ?
heatsink at the back, reminds me of phil jones's platinum audio studio, i think the curve looks more beautiful, although can be aggressive in some ways.
very nice work
very nice work
I was after some of the radiators to go with my XLS 10s, but for some bizarre reason, Peerless no longer makes the radiator, but I believe there's a Scan-Speak equivalent... except it's massively more expensive than the Peerless original. 😕
Thanks 🙂
I've tried it sealed and works really well in a 30litre volume. You'll get nice in-room extension to 30hz with a very low Q critically damped alignment.
For ported I had some problems. Not with the sound but with the logistics of the port size. I used four XLS10 in a 120litre enclosure and tuned to low 20's but the required port was so long I had to construct it outside the enclosure and fold it too. It ended up forming the foot of the subwoofer. Sounded incredible though, a lot of sub bass for sure!
And then finally was PR which is essentially the same as ported but without the complication I mentioned.
Living in the UK with generally smaller living rooms I prefer go with sensible size so sealed is great for that. If you've got the space try the PR though as you will get quite a bit more output.
The AT 15H is an easy driver to work with, one of *the* easiest I've had the pleasure of actually. So you'll find it works well with a wide range of tweeters. I'd recommend something like the Scanspeak D3004-6000 which is another great driver. If your watching your budget then the Peerless HDS tweeter is now manufactured by Scanspeak and is around half the price yet is just as good IMO. The ring radiators like the XT25 sound excellent too. Really there's a lot of good tweeters out there!
The XLS10 is a low distortion 10" with great flexibility so will well with lots of designs and drivers including AT ones. You can use it dipole, sealed and PR with good results. I wouldn't recommend ported as you tend to end up needing a huge long port. The only thing it doesn't have is a high price tag.
I've tried it sealed and works really well in a 30litre volume. You'll get nice in-room extension to 30hz with a very low Q critically damped alignment.
For ported I had some problems. Not with the sound but with the logistics of the port size. I used four XLS10 in a 120litre enclosure and tuned to low 20's but the required port was so long I had to construct it outside the enclosure and fold it too. It ended up forming the foot of the subwoofer. Sounded incredible though, a lot of sub bass for sure!
And then finally was PR which is essentially the same as ported but without the complication I mentioned.
Living in the UK with generally smaller living rooms I prefer go with sensible size so sealed is great for that. If you've got the space try the PR though as you will get quite a bit more output.
The AT 15H is an easy driver to work with, one of *the* easiest I've had the pleasure of actually. So you'll find it works well with a wide range of tweeters. I'd recommend something like the Scanspeak D3004-6000 which is another great driver. If your watching your budget then the Peerless HDS tweeter is now manufactured by Scanspeak and is around half the price yet is just as good IMO. The ring radiators like the XT25 sound excellent too. Really there's a lot of good tweeters out there!
The XLS10 is a low distortion 10" with great flexibility so will well with lots of designs and drivers including AT ones. You can use it dipole, sealed and PR with good results. I wouldn't recommend ported as you tend to end up needing a huge long port. The only thing it doesn't have is a high price tag.
One thing I'd really put a lot of effort into, would be getting a smooth throat area on the waveguide- the gaps the renderings show are undesirable.
I'm torn over the tweeter choice tbh. Beryllium is toxic and the face plate absolutely would have to stay(as shown). The mate is perfect alignment with the throat of the existing faceplate so its as good as it'll get yet still not good enough for my liking either. On the other hand if the standard textile version of the same tweeter is used then there's no problem removing the faceplate and perfecting the interface between dome and waveguide.
This one looks like it's finally out:
Transducer Lab N28BE pure beryllium tweeter
..a little under 200 US I believe.
and of course the ceramic version has been out for awhile now. With some responses here:
New drivers coming from Transducer Labs
I should note one other thing.
The Accuton's I've heard in a variety of designs almost invariably sound over-damped from about 300 Hz down, a physical compression that almost make them sound as if they are ever-so slightly "bottoming out" - utterly robbing the midrange of "tone". (..I personally think it's the way they are loaded, not really the bandwidth they are operated over.)
(I believe "Tidal" were the most obvious "offenders" with this quality that I've heard.)
On the other hand they sound incredibly clear above this range.. so it's "give and take"..
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Thanks Scott.
Odd that the Scanspeak Be has warning stickers plastered all over the back of it along with the cover and yet that one is naked.
Odd that the Scanspeak Be has warning stickers plastered all over the back of it along with the cover and yet that one is naked.
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