If your pockets are a little heavy I bet Madisound might be able to sub a RAAL 20 XR into the design.
No need the SB26CDC is a fine tweeter and at high crossover frequency will play effortlessly all day, all night.
Of course. If you want to change the directivity a ribbon will certainly do that. But that is not the original design, and you couldn’t just swap out the tweeter without changing the XO.
Of course. If you want to change the directivity a ribbon will certainly do that. But that is not the original design, and you couldn’t just swap out the tweeter without changing the XO.
Is it ok if crossover component values aren't exactly as per design? Solen sell 8.2uF caps and not 8.8uF. They also sell 6.8mH inductor not 7.0mH.
chopthebass,
You can parallel a 6.8uF cap and a 2.0uF cap to 8.8 uF.
For an inductor you can buy a 7.5mH inductor and take a few turns off to make it a 7.0mH inductor - however you will need an inductance measuring meter or a DATS device to measure the inductance accurately so that you get to the correct value.
Another approach is use two inductors in series e.g. 6.8mH and 0.2mH to get to 7.0mH, but for that please make sure that you put some distance between the coils and do not have the cores on the same axis.
You can parallel a 6.8uF cap and a 2.0uF cap to 8.8 uF.
For an inductor you can buy a 7.5mH inductor and take a few turns off to make it a 7.0mH inductor - however you will need an inductance measuring meter or a DATS device to measure the inductance accurately so that you get to the correct value.
Another approach is use two inductors in series e.g. 6.8mH and 0.2mH to get to 7.0mH, but for that please make sure that you put some distance between the coils and do not have the cores on the same axis.
Last edited:
I have worked with both the SB15CRC and the SB15CAC/SB15NBAC. With a passive crossover, the SB15CAC/NBAC will be easier to deal with because the resonance peak is quite high (near 10k), which means the notch filter is easier to integrate with the low pass filter.
In a recent project, I found that the SB15CRC was a challenging driver to work with. All of the SB15 drivers have a surround/spider resonance at 1.5k, but for reasons I don't fully understand, it is more pronounced in the SB15CRC than it is in the SB15CAC and SB15NBAC. If that isn't enough headache, the resonance peak at 6.2k complicates things because it is within an octave of the typical crossover frequency. I found myself wishing my project as a DSP controlled active project so I could extract the best performance from the SB15CRC.
... and @wolf_teeth warned me of this at the start of my project 😉 . I managed to balance the voicing and get a very nice sounding speaker, but it was more of a struggle than it would have been with a different mid driver.
j.
In a recent project, I found that the SB15CRC was a challenging driver to work with. All of the SB15 drivers have a surround/spider resonance at 1.5k, but for reasons I don't fully understand, it is more pronounced in the SB15CRC than it is in the SB15CAC and SB15NBAC. If that isn't enough headache, the resonance peak at 6.2k complicates things because it is within an octave of the typical crossover frequency. I found myself wishing my project as a DSP controlled active project so I could extract the best performance from the SB15CRC.
... and @wolf_teeth warned me of this at the start of my project 😉 . I managed to balance the voicing and get a very nice sounding speaker, but it was more of a struggle than it would have been with a different mid driver.
j.
I am thinking of building a 3 way speaker. Anthology II got my attention. Could someone please explain me the differences between different speaker replacement comparing Anthology II MTMWW vs Statement II WMTMW? For me placing speakers like in Statement II would be more logical. Any thoughts about that?
I do not have found speakers and DIY speaker kits that follow this kind a "Harman Kardon" curve something like in the following picture. Where lower frequencies are little bit boosted. I love when I also can enjoy sound without needing a separate subwoofer for lower frequencies.
Picture from this site.
I do not have found speakers and DIY speaker kits that follow this kind a "Harman Kardon" curve something like in the following picture. Where lower frequencies are little bit boosted. I love when I also can enjoy sound without needing a separate subwoofer for lower frequencies.
Picture from this site.
I could not make a truly fair comparison. The SB15CRC was in a passive speaker application, and that basically limited me to a high pass section, a low pass section, and a notch filter in the stop band above the low pass. So the inherent uneven response from 1k - 3k was left in place.
With the SB15CAC and NBAC, the applications were DSP controlled active speakers. I was able to employ enough small PEQ filters and gentle shelf filters to get the best performance.
With all of that said, here is my subjective impression of the speaker which used the SB15CRC.
With the SB15CAC and NBAC, the applications were DSP controlled active speakers. I was able to employ enough small PEQ filters and gentle shelf filters to get the best performance.
With all of that said, here is my subjective impression of the speaker which used the SB15CRC.
Hello.
I also decided to do anthology 2.
Where do you download the drawings and the project in good quality?
Jim and Kurt's website only allows to view them, but the photos are blurry and the dimensions are hard to read.
Is there any information about the method of damping, the type and amount of wadding?
I listen to all kinds of music. Pop, Rock, House, Jazz. Would they do well?
It worries me that I can't place them 40/50 centimeters from the wall.
My room is small ~19 square meters(19m2)
The bass reflex will also need to be moved to the front so that it is not blocked by the wall.
It would also be easier for me to find SB Acoustics drivers. For the low frequencies. Otherwise, Dayton Audio has a good price and very good reviews.
Idon't know which SB driver would replace it in terms of sound and performance. With a slight change in the chrosover.
I would be grateful for your help.
Regards: Dimitar.
I also decided to do anthology 2.
Where do you download the drawings and the project in good quality?
Jim and Kurt's website only allows to view them, but the photos are blurry and the dimensions are hard to read.
Is there any information about the method of damping, the type and amount of wadding?
I listen to all kinds of music. Pop, Rock, House, Jazz. Would they do well?
It worries me that I can't place them 40/50 centimeters from the wall.
My room is small ~19 square meters(19m2)
The bass reflex will also need to be moved to the front so that it is not blocked by the wall.
It would also be easier for me to find SB Acoustics drivers. For the low frequencies. Otherwise, Dayton Audio has a good price and very good reviews.
Idon't know which SB driver would replace it in terms of sound and performance. With a slight change in the chrosover.
I would be grateful for your help.
Regards: Dimitar.
The drawings on their site are OK, you can zoom in. A builder with some experience should be able to get his way with them.
As for using them in a 19sqm room: I'd give that a second thought. These speakers are big and easily fill a room triple that size with sound. And: they need some space around them, 1m from front wall and 1m from side walls.
And thus, my alarm bells rung (I'm overstating) on: "the port has to be moved to the front" 😉. Two things: the bass in your room will be so present, you'll be inclined to close that port. And: don't bother moving it anywhere unless you are going to push those speakers completely with their back to the front wall. It is a fairy tale that ports should 'see' a lot of open space. About 10 to 15cm is enough.
A design choice on that port placement has puzzled me before. The position at the bottom of the back panel isn't optimal, some 30-40cm upwards would likely have been better.
As for using them in a 19sqm room: I'd give that a second thought. These speakers are big and easily fill a room triple that size with sound. And: they need some space around them, 1m from front wall and 1m from side walls.
And thus, my alarm bells rung (I'm overstating) on: "the port has to be moved to the front" 😉. Two things: the bass in your room will be so present, you'll be inclined to close that port. And: don't bother moving it anywhere unless you are going to push those speakers completely with their back to the front wall. It is a fairy tale that ports should 'see' a lot of open space. About 10 to 15cm is enough.
A design choice on that port placement has puzzled me before. The position at the bottom of the back panel isn't optimal, some 30-40cm upwards would likely have been better.
For 19m2 maybe consider the Travelers instead?
https://techtalk.parts-express.com/...ery/1428596-the-travelers-new-year-new-design
https://techtalk.parts-express.com/...ery/1428596-the-travelers-new-year-new-design
Many options many speakers.. it's confusing when you don't know who sounds like what.. So far I've been listening to old ITT 6060S. they have Scan Speak. I like a balanced open sound without being intrusive with nice accurate low frequencies.
Yes, I imagined them in the room today, they're big 😒I have a restriction from my wife about the design.. She doesn't like tabletops with stands.. The project must be floor standing.Box size 220~260 X 280~300 X 1000mm is the maximum as a gauge.This volume would fit 2x 6/6.5" or one 8" for low frequencies. According to volume and bass reflex calculations.
There are also rumors that it is better to have 1 larger speaker instead of 2 smaller ones working together. A variant with 6.5 inch woofers can be made. By re-measuring the drivers and changing the filter. I have a measuring microphone available.
Thanks for the opinions.
When I assimilate and decide what exactly it should be, I will start my own topic.
Yes, I imagined them in the room today, they're big 😒I have a restriction from my wife about the design.. She doesn't like tabletops with stands.. The project must be floor standing.Box size 220~260 X 280~300 X 1000mm is the maximum as a gauge.This volume would fit 2x 6/6.5" or one 8" for low frequencies. According to volume and bass reflex calculations.
There are also rumors that it is better to have 1 larger speaker instead of 2 smaller ones working together. A variant with 6.5 inch woofers can be made. By re-measuring the drivers and changing the filter. I have a measuring microphone available.
Thanks for the opinions.
When I assimilate and decide what exactly it should be, I will start my own topic.