First channel ready of my stock F5 with one pair of power fets.
Adjusted bias at 0,6V and offset is zero.
By cold power up bias starts at 0,79 V and drops steady till it's reaching the 0,6V
Adjusted bias at 0,6V and offset is zero.
By cold power up bias starts at 0,79 V and drops steady till it's reaching the 0,6V
That's normal. Good news!
Let it go through a few more power/thermal cycles, then adjust for full bias .
Let it go through a few more power/thermal cycles, then adjust for full bias .
Second channel ready too.Bias and offset adjusment perfect.Will do some checking for a few days and after that some testing with music.
Will post some pics later on.
Will post some pics later on.
I've listen to some music and I do find the gain is too low.What do I need to be changed to pump it up?
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I had a similar situation with my speakers with relative low efficiency. The O2 Headphone Amp is super clean and works perfectly with all my Pass builds.
Hi Guys, I'm trying to complete my stereo F5's and have found this thread very helpful. A couple questions I had though...
I first mocked up a single case, but with the heat sinks and the power supply in the same case, it was starting to get super heavy and we move things around a lot in our house. So I'm going to do seperate cases for the amp and power supply.
So my first question is, I'm using Peter Daniel's PSUs in stereo config, and am basically following what 6L6 was doing with the bleeder resisters and the soft start, but since it's in a separate case from the amp, I wanted to add LEDs to the PSU to tell me when the caps are drained, and help drain them. I searched this forum and others but didn't see this shown any where so I apologize if this has been covered previously, but can anyone show me where the most efficient location for the LED is in Peter's circuit.
And second... On the amplifier side, for aesthetics I'm considering doing sort of a tower config with the 2 10"x10" heat sinks just wide enough apart for the amp boards... Probably 2". I plan on having the bottom perforated aluminum, and a vent in the back/top but no fan. Do I need to worry about the internal temp of the case on the amp side if the heat sinks are big enough?
Thanks!
Phil
Edit: On an unrelated note, attaching a picture of what happens when you by cheap taps and try to tap heat sinks... 🙄
Boiling out the broken tap with Alum solution... Sorry honey. 😀
I first mocked up a single case, but with the heat sinks and the power supply in the same case, it was starting to get super heavy and we move things around a lot in our house. So I'm going to do seperate cases for the amp and power supply.
So my first question is, I'm using Peter Daniel's PSUs in stereo config, and am basically following what 6L6 was doing with the bleeder resisters and the soft start, but since it's in a separate case from the amp, I wanted to add LEDs to the PSU to tell me when the caps are drained, and help drain them. I searched this forum and others but didn't see this shown any where so I apologize if this has been covered previously, but can anyone show me where the most efficient location for the LED is in Peter's circuit.
And second... On the amplifier side, for aesthetics I'm considering doing sort of a tower config with the 2 10"x10" heat sinks just wide enough apart for the amp boards... Probably 2". I plan on having the bottom perforated aluminum, and a vent in the back/top but no fan. Do I need to worry about the internal temp of the case on the amp side if the heat sinks are big enough?
Thanks!
Phil
Edit: On an unrelated note, attaching a picture of what happens when you by cheap taps and try to tap heat sinks... 🙄
Boiling out the broken tap with Alum solution... Sorry honey. 😀
Attachments
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Just place a resistor in series with an led between v+ and v-. It will glow till the caps of both banks are drained.
10K resistor and an LED between V+ and V- as Albert suggests.
And honestly, do yourself a favor and build it in one case. Add a handle or something. 2 cases, although seemingly an advantage when moving, will just be a colossal pain in the rear.
That said, the narrow heatsink tower will look pretty darn cool. (Add a few vent holes, it should be cool enough)
Did you use oil on the tap and back it out as soon as there was any resistance? I bet you didn't... 🙂 🙂 🙂
And honestly, do yourself a favor and build it in one case. Add a handle or something. 2 cases, although seemingly an advantage when moving, will just be a colossal pain in the rear.
That said, the narrow heatsink tower will look pretty darn cool. (Add a few vent holes, it should be cool enough)
Did you use oil on the tap and back it out as soon as there was any resistance? I bet you didn't... 🙂 🙂 🙂
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