I don't know on the Keratherm specs but perhaps a little deformation is acceptable as I'm thinking of all the times I've seen squished silicone pads in commercial equipment. There is often a deep imprint of the part on the pad.
Pleased you are finding the LT thread useful 🙂
Pleased you are finding the LT thread useful 🙂
That is pretty thin (0.71 mm).
I think you would find you used about a foot of the stuff soldering in any large parts 😀 it soon disappears.
Yes it looks fine otherwise. I just measured a couple of reels of mine as they don;t seem to say the gauge. I've some Philips stuff that seems around 0.7ish on a micrometer and some much thicker stuff that seems around 1.1 or 1.2 mm. Might not sound like much of a difference but in practice it is.
So that is all sounding good so far.
Just to confirm so far then.
1/ Supply is correct at 24 volts DC.
2/ The voltage on R1/2/3 and 4 junctions adjusts to 12 volts DC.
Those results show the main DC conditions are correct.
The FET's being hot (which is good) imply that the values of R1/2/3 and 4 are correct.
So checking continuity of input and output wiring is next.
Just to confirm so far then.
1/ Supply is correct at 24 volts DC.
2/ The voltage on R1/2/3 and 4 junctions adjusts to 12 volts DC.
Those results show the main DC conditions are correct.
The FET's being hot (which is good) imply that the values of R1/2/3 and 4 are correct.
So checking continuity of input and output wiring is next.
New Amp Camp build fails after 1 day
I finished the 1.8 kit build yesterday and it’s been working fine. I was checking heat on each side and was about 54c. I let it idle for a couple hours today ambient temp 75f. When I came back the sun had moved snd was shining on it and the right side of the amp was cool. Left side was normal, 56c. I measured bias and the working side was 12.1v. The non working side was .23 ( it had been 12.04 when working). Any ideas as to what might have happened?
Or how to diagnose it. I’m a noob to building so any thoughts much appreciated!
I finished the 1.8 kit build yesterday and it’s been working fine. I was checking heat on each side and was about 54c. I let it idle for a couple hours today ambient temp 75f. When I came back the sun had moved snd was shining on it and the right side of the amp was cool. Left side was normal, 56c. I measured bias and the working side was 12.1v. The non working side was .23 ( it had been 12.04 when working). Any ideas as to what might have happened?
Or how to diagnose it. I’m a noob to building so any thoughts much appreciated!
Might start by measuring the input voltage on the non working board where it comes from the power switch.
i did do that first thing and it’s 24v same as the working channel. Also both led’s are lit.
Good the voltage is there but can the connection sink the current? The LED doesn’t draw any to speak of. Check the physical connection and reflow the junction at both ends.
The junction at both ends of what? If it was a solder issue, why would it just happen without me physically touching the amp after it had been working fine for a day?
It can yes happen as the junctions heat and cool without you touching anything.
Where the + voltage wire enters the board and where it connects to the switch. Good sign it worked for a day. Most issues with these amps are cold solder joints.
Where the + voltage wire enters the board and where it connects to the switch. Good sign it worked for a day. Most issues with these amps are cold solder joints.
As long as you have it apart and the soldering iron hot it won’t hurt anything to reflow everything. My approach though would be to reflow the power connection at the input of the board and the output of the switch first and see if that fixes it. If it doesn’t take good pictures and post them. And go to work on reflowing so that is eliminated. Others here are really good at finding things in pictures. Gut hunch is since it worked and has voltage something just can’t sink the current. Just like a loose cable on a car battery. The car clunks once but won’t turn over. Till you tighten the connection.
Ok. Will do. I couldn’t find a guide to reference voltages at various points on the board. Is there anything like that?