What is parallel mono mode?
Amp Camp Amp V1.6 Build Guide - diyAudio Guides
I can only find stereo, balanced and bridged.
Amp Camp Amp V1.6 Build Guide - diyAudio Guides
I can only find stereo, balanced and bridged.
Sorry can you please specify? I don't understand. So I connect both speakers to one amp in normal stereo config. Then I flip the rear switch to RCA bridged mode. Ok. But when I connect only one RCA input, only one speaker plays. Not sure if that is what you meant.
Ah ok thanks! But I have the 1.6 version, so will not work for me will it? What is the effect of it?
It works.
I connected pin 2 and 3 of the XLR together and connected the two black speaker leads together. You still use the RCA input. You use one red post and one black post for the speakers.
It achieves the same result.
The current version is V1.8. If you just built yours using the latest kit from the stores, you should have this:
Amp Camp Amp V1.8 Change Information - diyAudio Guides
The modes are then:
stereo: Both channels operate independently, driving one speaker each.
bridged: 1 RCA input drives both channels, but out of phase. You connect 1 speaker from "hot A" to "hot B". "hot" in this case is the black speaker post, because the amp is inverting.
balanced: 1 XLR input drives both channels out of phase (XLR has a "+" and "-" input".) You connect 1 speaker exactly as for bridged mode.
The bridged and balanced modes gives twice the max. voltage, but the same max current.
parallel mono: 1 RCA input drives both channels, but in phase. You connect "hot A" and "hot B" together.
Parallel mono gives twice the max. current, but the same max. voltage. This is good for current-hungry low-impedance speakers.
(edit: I was too slow typing. Now I see that you have v1.6)
Also, I forgot to mention that you can achieve the same result of connecting pins 2 and 3 of the XLR together. By using an RCA Y splitter to both input channels. (I also have version 1.6). 
Thank you for explaining anyways! I guess I still have no idea if I got them right. I bought one from a guy who seemed pretty professional. I copied it. So maybe will just have to check the wiring or does anyone have another idea?
Missing/wrong bits
Hi friends, sorry for the amateur inquiries!
Just began to build the ACA amp and I found that I was shipped some incorrect parts. I was supplied 2x extra 332k resistors and I am missing 2x 10k resistors. I emailed the DIY store, but what is the best/fastest way to get these missing parts?
Also I soldered power resistors (2x .47 resistors and 2x .68 resistors) a bit snug to the PCB and only afterwards saw a note in the build guide to allow 1-2mm space as they get hot during use and will damage PCB. I’ve already trimmed them too short to now de/re-solder and add space. How important is this? Should I replace them?
Hi friends, sorry for the amateur inquiries!
Just began to build the ACA amp and I found that I was shipped some incorrect parts. I was supplied 2x extra 332k resistors and I am missing 2x 10k resistors. I emailed the DIY store, but what is the best/fastest way to get these missing parts?
Also I soldered power resistors (2x .47 resistors and 2x .68 resistors) a bit snug to the PCB and only afterwards saw a note in the build guide to allow 1-2mm space as they get hot during use and will damage PCB. I’ve already trimmed them too short to now de/re-solder and add space. How important is this? Should I replace them?
A few options...and I am sure there are more.
You can get all the new parts from Digi-key / Mouser / Arrow etc. etc. You will likely pay more for shipping than for the parts alone unless you happen to need some other things from them. One of them will very likely have what you need.
Alternatively, depending on your location and how long it may take... my guess is that the store will ship you your missing parts. You could very nicely ask if they just might happen to have any of the 0R47 and 0R68 they could ship you along with your missing parts.
It's not hugely important to raise those resistors, but it is nice. You may as well do it the best way you can.
If you let everyone know what country you're in, someone may offer to ship you a few pieces.
Hope you love your ACA.
You can get all the new parts from Digi-key / Mouser / Arrow etc. etc. You will likely pay more for shipping than for the parts alone unless you happen to need some other things from them. One of them will very likely have what you need.
Alternatively, depending on your location and how long it may take... my guess is that the store will ship you your missing parts. You could very nicely ask if they just might happen to have any of the 0R47 and 0R68 they could ship you along with your missing parts.
It's not hugely important to raise those resistors, but it is nice. You may as well do it the best way you can.
If you let everyone know what country you're in, someone may offer to ship you a few pieces.
Hope you love your ACA.
Thanks for the quick reply! I'm in Los Angeles, but I wouldn't want to bum any parts
I did email the store, will wait for a reply before going to digikey, hopefully not too long of a wait - my son and I are very excited to keep going but kind of at a standstill until those little guys are sorted.
Once we're done with the ACA we're onto the Korg Nutube B1 - I have to say its such a nice project to do with my 11 year old son. Would make my engineer dad very proud if he could see us using his old tools!
I did email the store, will wait for a reply before going to digikey, hopefully not too long of a wait - my son and I are very excited to keep going but kind of at a standstill until those little guys are sorted.
Once we're done with the ACA we're onto the Korg Nutube B1 - I have to say its such a nice project to do with my 11 year old son. Would make my engineer dad very proud if he could see us using his old tools!
Just a quick sense check here.
The V1.8 kit changes the R13 resistor from 10kΩ (used in the V1.6 kit) to 33.2kΩ. Are you sure the 'extra' resistors are 332KΩ and not actually 33.2kΩ. They make the indicator LED a little less bright, nothing else.
Worth a check. Alan
Attachments
Oh jeez, I think you’re right! I didn’t see the 1.8 parts list (mine came with the older list). My meter was saying 3.32 but there was an “m” before the Ω do i thought my meter was acting funny and giving me the value in mega ohms, which i thought was 332kΩ, but alas i’m off one decimal point cuz that would be 3320k LOL ... thank you for the heads up!
Umm,
Not sure I understand the workings of your meter, those are confusing figures...
You need to be sure though. There are 332kΩ (they go in the R10 positions) and 33.2kΩ resistors (that go in the R13 position) in the kit. Do not mix them up.
332kΩ are Orange, Orange, Red, Orange, Black.
33.2kΩ are Orange, Orange, Red, Red, Black.
Not sure I understand the workings of your meter, those are confusing figures...
You need to be sure though. There are 332kΩ (they go in the R10 positions) and 33.2kΩ resistors (that go in the R13 position) in the kit. Do not mix them up.
332kΩ are Orange, Orange, Red, Orange, Black.
33.2kΩ are Orange, Orange, Red, Red, Black.
