I have tried tightening the screws to the driver and then loosening a quarter of a turn. Sometimes it can give a better sound.
Maybe more people have tried this.
Maybe more people have tried this.
Right, we want the right amount of unit damping, i.e. don't want the 'tail wagging the dog' 😒; IOW the primary goal is to mass load the driver to the cab to make it a single unit, which without a brace must require a certain amount of flex unless the cab is so massive/rigid/clamped in place in some way it has basically zero resonance.
Imprortant that screws not be tightened too much. Justenuff to have a real or imaginary washer held in place.
dave
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For others trying to make this piece: I was able to make the cut on the internal brace by using a combo square to measure how far the back of the driver rose above the front panel, and then using that to set up my table saw fence. I used a stop block clamped to the fence to get the vertical spacing on the brace correct, then cranked the blade up from underneath while holding the brace in place with a pushblock. Then I cut out the legs of the trapezoid on the band saw, since they didn't need to be perfectly straight. So far looks like it's dead on accurate, i'll try the edge banding or foam if i notice any gaps/rattles.
Next question: for the felt on the brace, should I cut holes that line up with the holes I drilled, or can I leave it solid (i've got like 1/2" carpet style felt)? Thanks again!
Next question: for the felt on the brace, should I cut holes that line up with the holes I drilled, or can I leave it solid (i've got like 1/2" carpet style felt)? Thanks again!
Felt on the brace should cover the holes, on the side that has the centre of the box, it should not be over dense.
Anything between brace and magnet to shim it should be solid, we used veneer, or wven paper on vbery close ones.
dave
Anything between brace and magnet to shim it should be solid, we used veneer, or wven paper on vbery close ones.
dave
Should I have felt on both sides of the brace, with one side being solid felt and the other having holes, or just felt covering holes on the center side, and nothing on the other side?
One side, the whole point is that the exact middle of the box is that it is convieniently right in the centre where any standing waveform across that dimension is easiest to kill. The point is to cover the holes with something that only damps a bit as thett iswhat we are targeting.
dave
dave
I've seen again very good price for the MAOP and other Markaudio drivers at the TLHP store in France (click on the product after the main list, price changed to me) 🙂
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They have 5 pair of 10.2Maop. Sensation.
Little cheaper when you order 2 pieces.
But 11Maop is even cheaper.
I would take a pair of 10.2Maop. I hope they have matched pair.
Little cheaper when you order 2 pieces.
But 11Maop is even cheaper.
I would take a pair of 10.2Maop. I hope they have matched pair.
They damn well should: MAOP drivers are all measured, pair-matched and numbered by Markaudio and are supposed to be sold as those matched units by dealers. If they aren't (and it certainly doesn't involve any work on their part) then they're not doing their jobs.
I have heard that they have not behaved as they should. It's really sad when customers hesitate to send back a mismatched pair. Logic says there will be at least one more mistake.
@LeifB60 , just to clarify, when I login in my store account (TLHP) and I choose this Markaudio driver I see prices around 120 euro or less for single driver.
It seem to me very good prices but I didn't put into account the matching possibility.
I got in the past, after reading your post, a pair of MAOP 10.2 so I'm good and in this occasion I got just a pair of Pluvia. However I'm tempted tò get other driver as well.
I login too. But I dont get the same price as you.
€120 is a very good price for 10.2Maop.
I got about €165/ piece
€120 is a very good price for 10.2Maop.
I got about €165/ piece
No doubt, but if people don't return units that aren't from the correct factory-matched pairs, there's not much we can do about it. I did read one comment that was posted from a dealer saying 'they don't offer that service'. Which is rubbish, because it's got absolutely nothing to do with them: the factory does it all, and each batch is labelled and matched with serial numbers. If a dealer can't be bothered to read those, as they are supposed to for a premium product where it's one of the major selling points, and are just pulling them at random from the shelf like any old unit, then they are not doing their jobs, and I'd encourage customers to vote with their wallets and purchase from dealers who act like the professionals they're supposed to be. It's not a very arduous task to read a 3-digit serial number. Remember: you're doing them the favour by spending your hard-earned cash with them. They're not doing you a favour by graciously allowing you to buy from them.
I finally finished! I had to do the finish in my basement in less-than-ideal conditions so it's not my best work (shellac over ebony stain, I wanted the stain lighter and to do the shellac better, but it is what it is, I redid it once, didn't have it in me to redo it again... I bought these drivers in September... 2021, so at this point I just needed them done). On the plus side, they sound fantastic! I had built a simple reflex box with a pair of the regular Alpair 10.2, the MAOP in the Classic Golden Ratio Mar-ken is a definite step up. Thanks everyone for the questions answered/advice!