My hopes will be music soon. My question is, should I connect the 4 or 8 ohm output of the tube amplifier to the speakers?
https://www.nationalgeographic.com/animals/mammals/facts/baboons
https://www.nasa.gov/mission_pages/hubble/multimedia/index.html
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Challenger_Deep
https://www.racefans.net/2015/06/28/lotus-43brm-h16-2012-goodwood-festival-speed/
These links seem to have similar relevance to anything under discussion... 😉
https://www.nasa.gov/mission_pages/hubble/multimedia/index.html
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Challenger_Deep
https://www.racefans.net/2015/06/28/lotus-43brm-h16-2012-goodwood-festival-speed/
These links seem to have similar relevance to anything under discussion... 😉
Specialty application where you need to push the box right against the wall. http://wodendesign.com/planset/Poplar-A10x-MLTL-teaser.pdf
Their is a version with sides that are at a 30° angle for an even cleaner merging into the wall (ie HUGE chamfers)
dave
Anyone try the poplars yet?
Dave is the 30 degree version in the paid drawings by any chance if you know?
Toddler on the way so thinking to move my current mains and get something on the wall, my dad borrowed my pulvia 7.2 HD cubes and I have a feeling they are not coming back so thinking of a new build (nice excuse)
Larger MAOP might be ideal or a line array or 2 drivers per side but wall mounted. Anyone point me to an earlier project?
Yes. I do have some work to put all the Hardwoods in one planset.
The Pluvia 11, Aspen, is not wide enuff for the angled sides. Likely A11ms as well.
dave
Hi all. Hoping to get started on a pair of Frugel-Horn XLs pretty soon With the MAOP 10.2s. Thanks Bob for the flat pack!
A little confusion about stuffing and damping.
I have seen plans with 60g poly stuff back and 80g front. Then there is a video showing 175 g in the front and 175 g in the back. This same video suggests no felt it’s necessary on the top panel of the speaker box.
I know there will be variance, depending on room and taste, but these differences are huge! I need a starting point. Who better to ask than the original designers?
Small room, 12’ x 14’ with 10’ ceiling but would like to be able to locate to slightly larger room down the road. Two corner base traps. Likely back with a pair of subwoofers. Articulation is more important to me than the lowest octave. Of course I would take both!
To the point:
Recommendations for a good starting point for poly fill weight and distribution?
Should I or should I not put the damping felt on the top panel above the speaker?
Thanks.
A little confusion about stuffing and damping.
I have seen plans with 60g poly stuff back and 80g front. Then there is a video showing 175 g in the front and 175 g in the back. This same video suggests no felt it’s necessary on the top panel of the speaker box.
I know there will be variance, depending on room and taste, but these differences are huge! I need a starting point. Who better to ask than the original designers?
Small room, 12’ x 14’ with 10’ ceiling but would like to be able to locate to slightly larger room down the road. Two corner base traps. Likely back with a pair of subwoofers. Articulation is more important to me than the lowest octave. Of course I would take both!
To the point:
Recommendations for a good starting point for poly fill weight and distribution?
Should I or should I not put the damping felt on the top panel above the speaker?
Thanks.
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The first (up to 80 grams up front depending on driver — about 40 g for M10.2) is the official specification. No idea where the video (i have not seen) came from, but i expect 350g of damping would push the box almost completely aperiodic, making the shape of the box mostly immaterial. And much less bass.
With that much damping felt would be irrelevant, its purpose is to reduce early internal HF reflections near the back of the driver. Belt & suspenders.
dave
The rest of the video is informative and prior videos seem great. Obviously a demo video so he’s moving quickly. Maybe just made a mistake? It happens.
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That is Stefan, he does a good flat-pak, where he got the damping info is unknown.
The felt he is using is very low density, that is fine. If he is using cheap polyfill he may find he needs more. He very carefully weighs the total and guesses half. And then furtehr guesses the amount in the point.
I typically weighed out 2 bags of 60g and 4 bags of 40g (80g would not fit in one bag.
He does not fluff the damping. Another error. Possibly why he uses so much. And he is taking the front damping all the way to the bottom. It is only specified to use it in a mass just below the driver, with empty space for about the bottom half. That he needs a net to hold it with so much damping is another indicator that the polyneeds teasing.
Another comment. The binding post arrangment sucks. Spacing is wrong for a proper dual banana, and woes be you if you ever have to change the terminals or wire.
Scott works closely with him, i will ask him to ask Stefan what this is all about. This video is wrong and should come down.
dave
The felt he is using is very low density, that is fine. If he is using cheap polyfill he may find he needs more. He very carefully weighs the total and guesses half. And then furtehr guesses the amount in the point.
I typically weighed out 2 bags of 60g and 4 bags of 40g (80g would not fit in one bag.
He does not fluff the damping. Another error. Possibly why he uses so much. And he is taking the front damping all the way to the bottom. It is only specified to use it in a mass just below the driver, with empty space for about the bottom half. That he needs a net to hold it with so much damping is another indicator that the polyneeds teasing.
Another comment. The binding post arrangment sucks. Spacing is wrong for a proper dual banana, and woes be you if you ever have to change the terminals or wire.
Scott works closely with him, i will ask him to ask Stefan what this is all about. This video is wrong and should come down.
dave
His videos are great. He does make some comment on doing a better job with the Poly fill. He seems to be expediting for purposes of the video. Didn’t mean to throw him under the bus! Hopefully he can put a correction bubble in the video.
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Thanks! Exactly what I was looking for.
As for the felt, I have seen recommendations for F 15 and F 10...I got some samples from “the felt store”. Both are very dense with a somewhat regular surface. Much denser than I have typically seen inside of speaker cabinets. Some concern they may be slightly reflective at higher frequencies. Also, the sheer density seems it would take up excess volume inside the cabinet. F 26 seems a better compromise. Likely will just stay with felt that came with kit. Any thoughts?
It is not something to take short cuts on, just ask those who had to pull it all out and tease it. Not at all easy to do in the point once they are sealed up.
dave
Very true. Would be a huge disappointment after the time and cost of assembly. I may have been in that situation had I not checked here first.
Hey all -- great thread here. After careful and long research, I recently decided to buy a pair of MAOP 10 drivers for a project. Thanks to all the active posters on this forum who regularly share new info!
I made a point to make absolutely sure the pair I was sent would be matched, after reading about a serial number mix-up with these same drivers in the past. My supplier did well -- we emailed back and forth as we verified everything, and eventually I ended up with a matched pair by serial number.
Today I opened the boxes to have a look, and the drivers made the overseas trip in perfect condition. However, when I compared the two printed measurement sheets, they seem a little further apart from each other than other matched pairs I can find (when googling around). I'll insert a side-by-side photo below.
I'm fairly certain I'm just lacking the knowledge to properly understand what a ".5% tolerance" match means... Perhaps someone can enlighten me?
Another member on this forum (maybe even in this thread) said that the .5% refers to the FS values... In which case, my pair would seem to have a considerably larger deviation. Ehh, not sure -- how do these numbers look? Thanks for any insight.
I made a point to make absolutely sure the pair I was sent would be matched, after reading about a serial number mix-up with these same drivers in the past. My supplier did well -- we emailed back and forth as we verified everything, and eventually I ended up with a matched pair by serial number.
Today I opened the boxes to have a look, and the drivers made the overseas trip in perfect condition. However, when I compared the two printed measurement sheets, they seem a little further apart from each other than other matched pairs I can find (when googling around). I'll insert a side-by-side photo below.
I'm fairly certain I'm just lacking the knowledge to properly understand what a ".5% tolerance" match means... Perhaps someone can enlighten me?
Another member on this forum (maybe even in this thread) said that the .5% refers to the FS values... In which case, my pair would seem to have a considerably larger deviation. Ehh, not sure -- how do these numbers look? Thanks for any insight.