Sure thing. I just removed the pins from a SIP strip and soldered them in place. I fetched them from my neighbor who also does electronic projects. I asked him specifically if he had some with round sockets for hood lead contact, unlike the square contacts I have for PCB risers and such. Let me see if I can find a manufacturer and part number.Chris,
Do you have a link for those “female type” resistor socket doohickeys (the one over LR32)?
Best,
Anand.
Edit: this looks mighty close -
https://mou.sr/3jq3iPy
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Hi Chris,
I just got the same boards from Jim's audio. They did not give me any of the docs at first. Then I got a BOM and schematic (attached- as they are both on one pdf) which where not really complete. Missing what power ratings for the resistors etc. , as well as no voltage requirements. I just saw that on the schematic you had, it needs a 14v supply for the board(s).
Any advice (or even a correct BOM) or other documentation that might be helpful would be appritiated.
Thanks.
I just got the same boards from Jim's audio. They did not give me any of the docs at first. Then I got a BOM and schematic (attached- as they are both on one pdf) which where not really complete. Missing what power ratings for the resistors etc. , as well as no voltage requirements. I just saw that on the schematic you had, it needs a 14v supply for the board(s).
Any advice (or even a correct BOM) or other documentation that might be helpful would be appritiated.
Thanks.
Attachments
I believe I used the original AP schematics from Mr Pass as guidance if I recall. Let me see if I can pull my Mouser order for you. Might take me a bit so remind me if I forget. 🙂
And if memory serves, you only have to feed it one power source. I believe his board has the rectification onboard for all supplies. Trying to remember the toroid I used. Let me look back through the post history.
Edit: This one is an Antek 100VA 30x2. AS-1230. Series windings to get 60V.
And if memory serves, you only have to feed it one power source. I believe his board has the rectification onboard for all supplies. Trying to remember the toroid I used. Let me look back through the post history.
Edit: This one is an Antek 100VA 30x2. AS-1230. Series windings to get 60V.
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It's been a while since I built this, but this is the last project BOM I had in Mouser from 2021. Hopefully it's still accurate.Hi Chris,
I just got the same boards from Jim's audio. They did not give me any of the docs at first. Then I got a BOM and schematic (attached- as they are both on one pdf) which where not really complete. Missing what power ratings for the resistors etc. , as well as no voltage requirements. I just saw that on the schematic you had, it needs a 14v supply for the board(s).
Any advice (or even a correct BOM) or other documentation that might be helpful would be appritiated.
Thanks.
I used somewhat more expensive parts just because I could, but you could likely build it with less exotic materials for a fair bit less.
Good luck!
~Chris
Attachments
Can you share PCB files?Starting with the usual low-profile components, I started with the resistors and diodes, followed by small capacitors and potentiometers (set to center prior to install), and then large capacitors. I opted for the WIMA caps because they fit the spot, the sound nice in my AJ (to me – I don’t know the difference yet), and they aren’t horribly expensive at a few bucks apiece. And the red just looks cool. 😀 I finished up with the small transistors up in the CCS.
Post #29 looks like an interesting way to implement a volume control and for balanced stereo you still just need a 2 gang potentiometer but I cannot find a 2k log pot that is motorised. Any thoughts?
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