Paul9334,
That is a superb build, congratulations!
But front panel needs to reflect the goodness inside. 🙂
That is a superb build, congratulations!
But front panel needs to reflect the goodness inside. 🙂
Isnt that Fugly! inside?
though - 2 things:
- more than proper use of McI. case;
- pity it still have McI. logo
🙂
though - 2 things:
- more than proper use of McI. case;
- pity it still have McI. logo
🙂
Hello.I am planning to aleph J otherwise babelfish J after built F6.
F6 is amazing,I am curious about aleph J and F4 sound now.
My speakers are fullrangers and SB satori 2way 4ohm.
I read aleph J and babelfish J thread.
I don't need much volume, my room is so small.
My english and engineering skill is not enough.
Any suggestions welcome thenks.
F6 is amazing,I am curious about aleph J and F4 sound now.
My speakers are fullrangers and SB satori 2way 4ohm.
I read aleph J and babelfish J thread.
I don't need much volume, my room is so small.
My english and engineering skill is not enough.
Any suggestions welcome thenks.
Awesome-Looking Amp!
Paul 9334,
Beautiful amp with the Mac disguise. That would look nice next to my MC240 tube amp.
Where did you obtain those power supply boards? Did you custom-design it? I would love to use the chassis-mounted screw terminal type caps in my next Pass DIY amp build.
Paul 9334,
Beautiful amp with the Mac disguise. That would look nice next to my MC240 tube amp.
Where did you obtain those power supply boards? Did you custom-design it? I would love to use the chassis-mounted screw terminal type caps in my next Pass DIY amp build.
Wow! That looks great! Now you need to invite a bunch of McIntosh snobs over. When they say it's the best McIntosh they ever heard, take the cover off.
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Hi,
Mini Dissipante 3U 400mm 10mm BLACK front panel - 3mm aluminum covers and rear panel
model: 1MNPDA03/33/400N
plus:
Base per Mini Dissipante 33-400
model: 1BASEMNPD33/400
Hi I ran into an error while trying to bias the first board. My power supply is steady at 24v per side, yet when I try to adjust the DC offset on the first board I read 20volts! Am I reading this wrong? I'm able to put the bias right at .450mv.
Also for c6, do I need a jumper there if I don't have a cap that will fit? Or do I just leave it completely alone?
Also for c6, do I need a jumper there if I don't have a cap that will fit? Or do I just leave it completely alone?
C6: Leave it out completely if you don't have one that fits.
What do you measure across R7? Are you able to lower the DC offset by adjustment it?
What do you measure across R7? Are you able to lower the DC offset by adjustment it?
I had the same problem when I powered up one of my monoblocks the first time. In my case, it was enough to play with the DC offset potentiometer and adjust bias afterwards.
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No voltage across R18
I finished my Aleph J build last night, and everything was going perfectly until it wasn't. I have +25.4V and -25.4V off the power board. The right channel worked perfectly, 400mV over R18 and 0mV DC offset.
The left channel is a different story. Both LEDs are lit, but I'm getting no voltage over R18, and nothing is heating up.
I'm not sure where to begin the testing process to determine where the problem might be.
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
-Brad
I finished my Aleph J build last night, and everything was going perfectly until it wasn't. I have +25.4V and -25.4V off the power board. The right channel worked perfectly, 400mV over R18 and 0mV DC offset.
The left channel is a different story. Both LEDs are lit, but I'm getting no voltage over R18, and nothing is heating up.
I'm not sure where to begin the testing process to determine where the problem might be.
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
-Brad