with dual bridge topology ( 18Vac secondaries are independent, each having own bridge, GND formed after bridges) - phasing of both primaries and secondaries is absolutely, utterly and fully irrelevant
of course, if there are different colors of wires, one can arrange them in same manner through repeating blocks - it looks neater
of course, if there are different colors of wires, one can arrange them in same manner through repeating blocks - it looks neater
Aleph J - Dual Mono (Updated Power Drawing Rev 3)
I had some spare time:
- Updated PSU Connections
- Moved Transformer Shields from PSU Board to Chassis Ground
Going to look for Solution to Fuse Both Channels Separately, maybe Wago Terminal Block with build in Fuse. Will look nice and Clean, project for the weekend.
all the best for MIA
Max
I had some spare time:
- Updated PSU Connections
- Moved Transformer Shields from PSU Board to Chassis Ground
Going to look for Solution to Fuse Both Channels Separately, maybe Wago Terminal Block with build in Fuse. Will look nice and Clean, project for the weekend.
all the best for MIA
Max
I must be blind, lol
I triple checked and don't see any difference between the connections of the left and right Transformers, unless you mean that I mirrored the Bridges in the drawing to make the connections more symmetrical.
I made the change from your first observation and matched the bridges to the Positive and Negative side of the PSU Boards.
I will add the Thermistors to the Grounds going to the PSU's.
Due to the spade connectors I only have (1) Ground Jumper between the two half's of the boards. I'm thinking of adding (2) More on the bottom of the board between ST_G1, ST_G2 and ST_IN2, ST_IN3 to beef it up a bit.
I triple checked and don't see any difference between the connections of the left and right Transformers, unless you mean that I mirrored the Bridges in the drawing to make the connections more symmetrical.
I made the change from your first observation and matched the bridges to the Positive and Negative side of the PSU Boards.
I will add the Thermistors to the Grounds going to the PSU's.
Due to the spade connectors I only have (1) Ground Jumper between the two half's of the boards. I'm thinking of adding (2) More on the bottom of the board between ST_G1, ST_G2 and ST_IN2, ST_IN3 to beef it up a bit.
I am not 100% sure re: WHY, but I do understand WHAT 6L6 was/is saying.
If the part is sitting in the correct orientation in 3D space; the rectifiers on the left channel, the position directly clockwise from the notches will be a green insulated portion (the end of the winding) of the secondary. For the right channel, the position directly clockwise from the notches will be a blue insulated portion (the beginning of the winding) of the secondary. The other 3 follow accordingly / per rectifier / per channel. They are wired differently.
I saw that from your earlier diagram. Now that 6L6 has more clearly explained (along with additional comments from ZM) - I can chime in.
Edited to correct my faux pas with cut and paste to correct the end / beginning of the winding per the spec sheet from Antek. Oh the sweet irony.
If the part is sitting in the correct orientation in 3D space; the rectifiers on the left channel, the position directly clockwise from the notches will be a green insulated portion (the end of the winding) of the secondary. For the right channel, the position directly clockwise from the notches will be a blue insulated portion (the beginning of the winding) of the secondary. The other 3 follow accordingly / per rectifier / per channel. They are wired differently.
I saw that from your earlier diagram. Now that 6L6 has more clearly explained (along with additional comments from ZM) - I can chime in.
Edited to correct my faux pas with cut and paste to correct the end / beginning of the winding per the spec sheet from Antek. Oh the sweet irony.
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Dual Parallel Mono
Yea, that is probably good advice, and i hope you are right about "plesantly surprised".
I do not treat or view my hifi setup as a scientific precision instrument. To me it is a slowly and lovingly tuned musical instrument. Details means absolutely nothing to me if the setup does not sing and truely rocks my heart, socks and soul
Well, so...
First i am going to build two separate bone stock, stereo Aleph J:s. And make absolutely sure they are playing music beautifully as they are supposed to
Then i will test them as a dual mono setup with on channel per stereo amplifier disconnected.
After that: Dual parallel mono Aleph J:s!
The only thing i have bumped up in relation to "stock" is the smoothing capacitors: 100 000uF per rail. In total 40x10 000uF.
Yea, that is probably good advice, and i hope you are right about "plesantly surprised".
I do not treat or view my hifi setup as a scientific precision instrument. To me it is a slowly and lovingly tuned musical instrument. Details means absolutely nothing to me if the setup does not sing and truely rocks my heart, socks and soul
Well, so...
First i am going to build two separate bone stock, stereo Aleph J:s. And make absolutely sure they are playing music beautifully as they are supposed to
Then i will test them as a dual mono setup with on channel per stereo amplifier disconnected.
After that: Dual parallel mono Aleph J:s!
The only thing i have bumped up in relation to "stock" is the smoothing capacitors: 100 000uF per rail. In total 40x10 000uF.
Well, i truely hope that you, 6L6, ZenMod and Tungsten are right. The twin Parallel mono ACA:s is a couple of absolutely fabulous music makers
Aleph J - Dual Mono (Updated Power Drawing Rev 5)
I did the final tweaks, using a fuse for each channel made a lot of sense as one channel can have an issue and get damaged without a single fuse protecting both channels triggering.
let me know if I got all my twists correct, I trolled the forum's and my take was to twist everything with the exception of the input signal to the Amp PCB due to the capacitance.
I also saw comments that you can run solid AC/DC conductor tight together side by side, this would be my preference as it will look neater (like free wire)
Warm Greetings from Sunny Miami,
Max
I did the final tweaks, using a fuse for each channel made a lot of sense as one channel can have an issue and get damaged without a single fuse protecting both channels triggering.
let me know if I got all my twists correct, I trolled the forum's and my take was to twist everything with the exception of the input signal to the Amp PCB due to the capacitance.
I also saw comments that you can run solid AC/DC conductor tight together side by side, this would be my preference as it will look neater (like free wire)
Warm Greetings from Sunny Miami,
Max
SUCCESS!! I’ve just completed my Aleph J monoblock build. It’s operating silent and sounds great this far on my test speakers. Thank you to all who contributed with their expertise. Please feel free to critique what I’ve done so I can grow going forward on perhaps this build our future builds. The only I know I should’ve done differently is used smaller VA transformers instead of the 400VA are in this amp. I will do that in the future because this thing weighs a ton.
I have questions about R8 TP bias. I have a pot 25 turn pot installed there in its mid position. What is this pot used for or TP bias? I was searching through the many pages of this thread but can’t seem to come up with anything yet. Anyone please? Thanks in advance
I have questions about R8 TP bias. I have a pot 25 turn pot installed there in its mid position. What is this pot used for or TP bias? I was searching through the many pages of this thread but can’t seem to come up with anything yet. Anyone please? Thanks in advance
Attachments
Congrats!
Post #1 from the esteemed Mr. 6L6 human gift to Greedy Boyz, should enlighten that question. Seen in conjunction with schematic.
Excited to hear how it sounds!
Regards,
Andy