Ok. I'll resort from now instead of using Sissies, should write Weaklings
Pooftah didn't use for long time, anyway
Greenhorns (damn ones) will continue to use
problem is (still not mine, even if I must restrain my self for few days, habit) - I simply ignore possible negative meaning of people's talk ....... I don't care
but, point taken
though, amp is Sissy, and will stay that
Pooftah didn't use for long time, anyway
Greenhorns (damn ones) will continue to use
problem is (still not mine, even if I must restrain my self for few days, habit) - I simply ignore possible negative meaning of people's talk ....... I don't care
but, point taken
though, amp is Sissy, and will stay that
I think that the misunderstanding probably comes also from motorcycle jargon where the "sissy bar" refers to "sister bar" and assumed that sissy is used in slang for "weak", not for effeminate. I do reckon that is a bit sexist, but I NEVER thought and never will do that ZM was using that term with sexist intention or meaning. If someone that knows him, even if only a little, thinks so, he/she probably sees problems where there're none and wants tocreate them. And I don't want to feed any troll, even if unintentional troll: nowadays (thanks also to the socials) we discuss animatedly for our "passions" (call them diy, sport, hobbies) and we are silent in the face of serious problems or loss of hard-won rights (climate disasters, world of work worthy of the far west, total lack of empathy and the list is very long), letting go everything by inertia.
As a child, I was also a victim of bullying but I certainly don't go to unload myself on this nonsense writing.
Again, take it easy and BREATHE.
Cheers
As a child, I was also a victim of bullying but I certainly don't go to unload myself on this nonsense writing.
Again, take it easy and BREATHE.
Cheers
Parallel mono and the Pass Aleph J?
Hey there all you fearless DIY Pass-Amp-Builders
I am currently building two Aleph J amplifiers. I am planning to run them in parallel mono. I need the extra current for my 4 ohm speakers.
Currently i am running 2 ACA in parallel mono. They are sounding mighty and sweet. True Velvet sledges, with a firm, yet lush & juicy, and very, very powerful, musical bass. With an extremely present and clear sound image. Reach out and touch the individual sounds.
I am not sure the twin Aleph J:s ar going to beat them nice ACA:s in the foot tapping and head bobbing musical department. But i am willing to give it a try
I have actually read every single post in this fine thread.
So... to my 2 questions. Probably more to come in the future
Well, since i already have recieved the Aleph J kits from the DIY Store, its much to late to ask if it is a reasonably good idea to run The Aleph J i parallel mono. But i am asking anyway
Is 2x26w into 4 ohm the power output to expect from 2 parallel mono, 2x18V 300VA Aleph J:s?
ACA in parallel mono 4 ohm, outputs 2x16w as far as i know.
Greetings from Sweden
Hey there all you fearless DIY Pass-Amp-Builders
I am currently building two Aleph J amplifiers. I am planning to run them in parallel mono. I need the extra current for my 4 ohm speakers.
Currently i am running 2 ACA in parallel mono. They are sounding mighty and sweet. True Velvet sledges, with a firm, yet lush & juicy, and very, very powerful, musical bass. With an extremely present and clear sound image. Reach out and touch the individual sounds.
I am not sure the twin Aleph J:s ar going to beat them nice ACA:s in the foot tapping and head bobbing musical department. But i am willing to give it a try
I have actually read every single post in this fine thread.
So... to my 2 questions. Probably more to come in the future
Well, since i already have recieved the Aleph J kits from the DIY Store, its much to late to ask if it is a reasonably good idea to run The Aleph J i parallel mono. But i am asking anyway
Is 2x26w into 4 ohm the power output to expect from 2 parallel mono, 2x18V 300VA Aleph J:s?
ACA in parallel mono 4 ohm, outputs 2x16w as far as i know.
Greetings from Sweden
More than 26W??
Well it seems fairly unusual to run the Aleph J:s in parallel mono. Guess i have to measure them myself when they are ready to funk, soul, blues, jazz and rock
I havent got a THD meter, but i have a oscilloscope and configurable power resistors on a heatsink so that could roughly indicate the ballpark power figures.
Well it seems fairly unusual to run the Aleph J:s in parallel mono. Guess i have to measure them myself when they are ready to funk, soul, blues, jazz and rock
I havent got a THD meter, but i have a oscilloscope and configurable power resistors on a heatsink so that could roughly indicate the ballpark power figures.
More than 26W??
Well it seems fairly unusual to run the Aleph J:s in parallel mono. Guess i have to measure them myself when they are ready to funk, soul, blues, jazz and rock
I havent got a THD meter, but i have a oscilloscope and configurable power resistors on a heatsink so that could roughly indicate the ballpark power figures.
double Iq (that's max. what Aleph OS can give to load), then double that for parallel mono
then P=I^2*R
roughly, if Iq=1A5, you get to ......... plenty
This is very true. I recommend trying a simple stereo build of the Aleph J before attempting a parallel mono build. I think think you may be pleasantly surprised.
Try putting some energy into the power supply first. A dual-mono or separarate mono supplies would be a good way to start.
I concur with 6L6 and Tungsten. An Aleph J in my experience was demonstrably better than any iteration of the ACA and was also better than a MOFO too. Don’t underestimate the power of the dynamic Aleph CCS. It really makes a big difference even compared to the very simple follower OS of the Mofo, fancy Lundahl chokes and all.
My comparisons have been on speakers that are high sensitivity (96 dB) and are relatively easy to drive (impedance nadir of 4.8 ohms between 100-200Hz). I would expect even bigger differences on speakers that are of lower sensitivity and/or difficult impedance (and phase angle) swings. In other words, the Aleph J works on “real” world loads seen on most dynamic speakers as long as the power output and your needs for “X” SPL are not the impediment.
Best,
Anand.
My comparisons have been on speakers that are high sensitivity (96 dB) and are relatively easy to drive (impedance nadir of 4.8 ohms between 100-200Hz). I would expect even bigger differences on speakers that are of lower sensitivity and/or difficult impedance (and phase angle) swings. In other words, the Aleph J works on “real” world loads seen on most dynamic speakers as long as the power output and your needs for “X” SPL are not the impediment.
Best,
Anand.
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Getting Ready for Aleph J Dual Mono
Hello All,
I Started to plan my next build, I selected the Aleph J in a Dual Mono Setup. I'm glad that purchased the PCB's last week, I see they are out of stock now. This will kick this off in December during the Holidays.
I just completed the B1 Nutube and are finishing up the Noir HPA, really enjoying building these Audio Projects but need something bigger and more complexed.
As I haven't really been active in building electronics since my teens, I enjoy sifting through all pictures and searching for clues in the forum. There is a lot of information, so I decided to draw everything out to get a good overview. I have attached what I finished so far, I completed the power connections with the ground wiring not started yet. I will be posting updates as I progress, I hope some of you will correct me if I make mistakes or suggest improvements.
All The Best from Miami FL.
Max
Hello All,
I Started to plan my next build, I selected the Aleph J in a Dual Mono Setup. I'm glad that purchased the PCB's last week, I see they are out of stock now. This will kick this off in December during the Holidays.
I just completed the B1 Nutube and are finishing up the Noir HPA, really enjoying building these Audio Projects but need something bigger and more complexed.
As I haven't really been active in building electronics since my teens, I enjoy sifting through all pictures and searching for clues in the forum. There is a lot of information, so I decided to draw everything out to get a good overview. I have attached what I finished so far, I completed the power connections with the ground wiring not started yet. I will be posting updates as I progress, I hope some of you will correct me if I make mistakes or suggest improvements.
All The Best from Miami FL.
Max
Absolutely excellent!
A few minor things -
You only need one terminal block even with dual transformers. This will allow you to save a bunch of chassis floor space as well get the .0033uF X-1 rated line cap directly across the L and N. (It’s currently not)
The transformer secondary to diode connections are mirror imaged from one PSU to the other. This will work, but symmetry and good building practice says everything should be in the same phase.
Please don’t use dual 500VA transformers. 500VA is overkill for stereo. Oversized transformers gain essentially nothing except increased chances for back injury when lifting the completed amplifier at the expense of making your wallet lighter. (Use AS-2218 or AS-2220, they are more than big enough and more importantly, shielded.)
A few minor things -
You only need one terminal block even with dual transformers. This will allow you to save a bunch of chassis floor space as well get the .0033uF X-1 rated line cap directly across the L and N. (It’s currently not)
The transformer secondary to diode connections are mirror imaged from one PSU to the other. This will work, but symmetry and good building practice says everything should be in the same phase.
Please don’t use dual 500VA transformers. 500VA is overkill for stereo. Oversized transformers gain essentially nothing except increased chances for back injury when lifting the completed amplifier at the expense of making your wallet lighter. (Use AS-2218 or AS-2220, they are more than big enough and more importantly, shielded.)
Guys, the use of silly words is getting too serious, they are just silly words; if your reading this, your a poofta - including me
Intention and perception do not always go hand in hand. I respect those who are offended, and will take that into consideration from now on. Late but good, as my wife always sez. But regarding intentions: even though people like for example Mighty look like manly men, they can be soft as an angels wing on the inside. For example, Mighty once said he himself is a s***, and not a member of FAB. He also made an amp with thr same name. I spot no ill intent.
But semantics are difficult. My understanding of the word was «wimp/wimpy», described for the First Watt time by Papa in the F5T article regarding bias current vs explosion risk: fraidy cat. Is that expression offensive also?
I have great respect for different peoples perception, and always try to learn and be better, so Rikicheck: respect, and thanks for sharing what must have been bad and hard experiences throughout especially your youth.
At the same time, I agree with itsmee that sometimes it may be a good idea not to interpret too much into what people say. In the example of Mighty: everyone knows he makes jokes - whenever he is not serious (serious mostly). That’s him. I would be apprehensive in advocating him as anything but a great gift to us greedy boys, with a vivid and entertaining language - to the joy of some, and to the offense of some..
If the s-word is banned, I suggest we replace it with fraidy cat. Since Papa is never wrong, and omniPapa caring for all. That way, if anyone has issue, he is the one to talk to
Everyone deserves respect. Everyone needs to be heard. Everyone needs a project.
It’s a big universe. Good looking start Max!
Soooo…
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/solid-state/378593-ultralite-baf21.html#post6825655
It’s a big universe. Good looking start Max!
Soooo…
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/solid-state/378593-ultralite-baf21.html#post6825655
Hello Dennis,
I didn't find any of the PCB layouts so I took a good quality picture and imported it into AutoCAD as a background, scaled it to actual size, and then draw it on top of the Image. This sounds like a lot of work but once your draw one device type it is all cut, past from there. It took me about 2 1/2 hr to draw the Power Supply (incl the Rectifier section) and Aleph J PCB Boards
It's getting harder to find CAD Blocks these days so if you are lucky and you find a good Spec Sheet that you can export a drawing from PDF straight to DWG (AutoCAD format) But if Not I just draw on top of the PDF drawing. I used this for Barrier Terminal Block, Transformers, and the spade connectors, All Other items I draw from scratch as size are not crucial for this type of drawing.
Then I print the drawing to PDF and you get high Res Drawing, I'm planing to Split the design into Multiple drawings to keep it easier to read and avoid Clutter:
- Power Connections
- Chassis and signal ground
- Signal Connections
- and maybe Enclosure Layout
Best Regards,
Max
I didn't find any of the PCB layouts so I took a good quality picture and imported it into AutoCAD as a background, scaled it to actual size, and then draw it on top of the Image. This sounds like a lot of work but once your draw one device type it is all cut, past from there. It took me about 2 1/2 hr to draw the Power Supply (incl the Rectifier section) and Aleph J PCB Boards
It's getting harder to find CAD Blocks these days so if you are lucky and you find a good Spec Sheet that you can export a drawing from PDF straight to DWG (AutoCAD format) But if Not I just draw on top of the PDF drawing. I used this for Barrier Terminal Block, Transformers, and the spade connectors, All Other items I draw from scratch as size are not crucial for this type of drawing.
Then I print the drawing to PDF and you get high Res Drawing, I'm planing to Split the design into Multiple drawings to keep it easier to read and avoid Clutter:
- Power Connections
- Chassis and signal ground
- Signal Connections
- and maybe Enclosure Layout
Best Regards,
Max
Yes, Visio is also a great tool to do this kind of drawing. and it has less of a learning curve compared to AutoCAD. I'm not sure If Visio has a free version, I have to pay a monthly fee for the version I use.
The trick is to import a picture, make sure it is flat and not skewed so that all your lines are straight when you draw on top of the image. I'm sure you can do this with any Drafting software. Not sure if it will be this high quality, but good enough for hobby work.
Best,
Max
The trick is to import a picture, make sure it is flat and not skewed so that all your lines are straight when you draw on top of the image. I'm sure you can do this with any Drafting software. Not sure if it will be this high quality, but good enough for hobby work.
Best,
Max