Pin 1 - I'd leave it.
Jumpers don't apply to your build. You only put in XLRs. You did a nice job explaining in the blog re: RCAs.
Excellent final post. I skimmed, but here are a few small thoughts.
CL-60s don't return to "non-conductive". I'd just swap it out to say to remember to allow them to cool. I think you mentioned it earlier in the blog, but it can't hurt to repeat it.
Also, if people get the same XLR jacks you did, they can crimp to hold the wire in place, then solder. It may make it easier. If you'd like for your build, you can use the crimps for strain relief, but you've got pretty sturdy looking wire.
Jumpers don't apply to your build. You only put in XLRs. You did a nice job explaining in the blog re: RCAs.
Excellent final post. I skimmed, but here are a few small thoughts.
CL-60s don't return to "non-conductive". I'd just swap it out to say to remember to allow them to cool. I think you mentioned it earlier in the blog, but it can't hurt to repeat it.
Also, if people get the same XLR jacks you did, they can crimp to hold the wire in place, then solder. It may make it easier. If you'd like for your build, you can use the crimps for strain relief, but you've got pretty sturdy looking wire.
I'm sure there are more people that may take the plunge or at the very least feel more confident in their decision to get started because of your dedication.
Here's at least one.
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pas...-85-89db-efficiency-speakers.html#post6458808
A truly fine document that I am sure will help more people than you know.
Here's at least one.
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pas...-85-89db-efficiency-speakers.html#post6458808
A truly fine document that I am sure will help more people than you know.
You're welcome. I hope it proves to be helpful to others who are just beginning, like me. Help spread the word.
+1
A reliable US dealer link for the excellent Hakko Hakko FX888D Soldering Station — GoKimco
Time to order new smaller tips for my Hakko 936 temperature controlled soldering station iron for this type of project. Excellent tool!
I have been reading forum posts until my eyes hurt the over this holiday weekend. Trying to decide which Pass amp kit to build. I am leaning toward the Aleph J, partly because of balanced (input?) output capability.
I am a "first-timer" for an audio kit, but think I want a one and done. Is there a better choice than the Aleph J? I have JBL STUDIO 580 90dB/W/m and 6 ohm. Getting used Parasound Halo P5 for sources, has balanced and SE output.
First ever post in DIYaudio.
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!
Last edited:
So the good news is that I took the board off reheated some connections and now the offset is incredibly sensitive and I'm able to adjust it now. Unfortunately when I turn the amp on with the leads connected there's a large amount of voltage that comes out of the speaker terminals, I can easily adjust the offset back down to close to zero although it does fluctuate a bit. The bias holds steady. The same thing happens when I turn off the amp.
I think it might be happening because I was missing one safety capacitor that connects on the terminal strip with the two cl60s.
Here are some photos.
I think it might be happening because I was missing one safety capacitor that connects on the terminal strip with the two cl60s.
Here are some photos.
I'm not familiar with those speakers, but those specs seem like a reasonable fit. Hard to know what the "nominal 6 ohms" number really means, since it's an average figure that could be hiding low impedance dips at particular frequencies. But my Aleph J sounds pretty great on my 91db/w/m, 4 ohm speakers, even if it's not supposed to (the Aleph J only manages about 13 watts into 4 ohm loads). After all, the Pass design philosophy is that the quality of the first watt matters most!
If this is your first audio build, I would opt for the project that has the most detailed, step-by-step build guide (the Aleph J), but then again, I'm biased.
You might look into the F5, which is also very popular to build, and offers higher power into <8 ohm speakers. I've not heard the F5, so I can't really opine on which is "better", much less better for your speakers. I suspect the one you will love most is which ever one you build yourself, no matter which that is! Welcome, and good luck!
Photos of Build
I'm having a bit of trouble uploading the images of the problematic board. I posted it on IMGUR and tried to link the images here, hope that's okay and not against the rules.
I wired in the other board and it's completely perfect, offset as close to zero as my meter will read and bias is steady and easily adjusted.
The problematic board, board number 1, gets a huge influx of voltage on powering on and off. I can adjust both offset and bias after power up but it doesn't seem like the change affects anything when I turn it on and off again. There's still a big spike of voltage. Hopefully these photos upload so someone can give me some direction.
I'm having a bit of trouble uploading the images of the problematic board. I posted it on IMGUR and tried to link the images here, hope that's okay and not against the rules.
I wired in the other board and it's completely perfect, offset as close to zero as my meter will read and bias is steady and easily adjusted.
The problematic board, board number 1, gets a huge influx of voltage on powering on and off. I can adjust both offset and bias after power up but it doesn't seem like the change affects anything when I turn it on and off again. There's still a big spike of voltage. Hopefully these photos upload so someone can give me some direction.
Antennadad - If you were only going to ever build one of these amps, Aleph J would absolutely be a genuinely fantastic choice.
I'll vouch for that. Over the last few days I've been comparing the Aleph J wit a couple of SE amps we have here. Needless to say those tube amps are back on the shelf, collecting more dust.
This amp makes music sound easy.
So I desoldered a connection I put in where one of the optional film caps would have gone. I think it might have been c6. I thought possibly I had to have a jumper there but I was mistaken.
Now I'm able to adjust the bias and it holds steady but the offset is stuck at -22 volts or so. I can't seem to make any adjustments that will make this change by much.
Any trouble shooting I might try before giving up for tonight?
I'll try to upload the photos again but I think they need to be resized for the forum.
Now I'm able to adjust the bias and it holds steady but the offset is stuck at -22 volts or so. I can't seem to make any adjustments that will make this change by much.
Any trouble shooting I might try before giving up for tonight?
I'll try to upload the photos again but I think they need to be resized for the forum.
