What music are you playing?
For Rock Bass you need a mid pronounced sound to cut through and let room for guitar and voice. Get a P bass, ampeg stack + speakers and just play. That doesn't sound nice and airy at all but as soon as the band kicks in everything fits.
I always recorded and mixed live with 2 channels for the bass. One clean (DI signal fro instrument or preamp) and one "dirty" (normally from speaker) which I cut and EQed to only reproduce midrange. With the variation of these 2 channels you can quickly adapt the sound to what's needed in the situation. Need bass in the background, just use the clean, nice sound. Need to cut through add the midrange. The bass player adds distortion - yeah, let's do that 😎
But back to the topic - these 4x10" speakers are instument speakers. They are made for a sound, low Xmax and often lot's of THD cause they are build very simple. Not sure if you can find some which are useable.
And these instrument cabinets ... are build like they did 70 years before cause you need the "sound". No absorption, no bracing. You can use the better ones for modifying. Also the baffle is horrible for HiFi use. Plenty of work, also with the 1000,- bucks ones.
But 2 Ampeq STVs in the living room with a fitting horn above it ... would look really cool - for a musician 🤓
Hi, all kinds, I have p-bass and Ampeg for rock 😀 Problem is mainly with more acoustic music, folk and jazzy stuff. Both can do also with colored sound. I just find it very frustrating / distracting to listen these things, never sounds right. Plug in hifi speaker and that's it, nice sound 🙂 Likely bandwidth and directivity, possible other issues.
Basic measurements for 2x12" Ampeg SVT-212AV
- https://www.bassgearmag.com/cab-lab-ampeg-svt-212av-bass-cabinet/
And another 8x 8" Revsound RS88T
- https://www.bassgearmag.com/cab-lab-revsound-rs88t/
- https://www.bassgearmag.com/cab-lab-ampeg-svt-212av-bass-cabinet/
And another 8x 8" Revsound RS88T
- https://www.bassgearmag.com/cab-lab-revsound-rs88t/
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Could you include some circumferential grooves so that some string or rubber cord could be used to pull everything together evenly? Perhaps 2 or even 3 of these grooves would be necessary, but it would be similar in concept to assembling a glued mitered box together using painter's tape.
Or include some holes in either the front or back so that using shafts/pegs all the pieces can be suspended above a bed or platform in the "correct" position, which would avoid accumulated error.
Also, I'm thinking maybe latex caulking could be used as the adhesive, since it's cheap, easy to use, has a long working life, and is paintable.
I think this is getting too complicated. It's clear that to avoid the accumulation of inaccuracies, the petals must be assembled all at once, preferably with a filling/foaming glue that leaves room for adjustments and fill all the small gaps. This is actually what I already have with the "base + petals" kits, where the mounting jig holds everything in place until all the petals are added and can be fixed together with a tape or whatever.
I think I will just redo the A460 kit like this. At the moment it still seems as the best approach, i.e. the most immune to imperfections.
@miero, thanks, that would be good enough, in my book.
I think I will just redo the A460 kit like this. At the moment it still seems as the best approach, i.e. the most immune to imperfections.
@miero, thanks, that would be good enough, in my book.
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As for the current A460 kit, maybe it's best to form a full ring from the petals with a slow glue first. A tape should hold everything sufficiently, IMHO (there are alignment holes for small bits of filament in the sides of the petals (*)). And then glue this ring to the throat part.
(*) you may need a 1.8mm drill to assure the fit
(*) you may need a 1.8mm drill to assure the fit
Oh, looking at these I understand why @tmuikku doesn't like the sound. That's not the response I need for a good sounding DI signal from a bass guitar ... strange. I would put the mid pronaunciation higher and the sound more broadband.
The 12" Ampeg would acutally be interesting for clean bass sounds but not rock.
This ine is also interesting and probably a good base for adding a bigger horn:
https://www.bassgearmag.com/cab-lab-mesa-boogie-traditional-powerhouse-810-bass-cabinet/
But non of these would do nice HiFi reproduction of low frequencies.
I think it would be easier to get the front protectors of one of these and build a proper cabinet with proper drivers for it.
95 dBSPL @ 50 Hz seems fine to me. The rest is just a matter of EQ, I see no problems there.
May well be true. These are not actually very cheap.
I don't think it's 1w/1m measurements.
And that there will be plenty of x-max to get decent bass at a sufficient level.
I think the new kit design as-is is pretty good. I like it better than the old version. The most challenging parts of the assembly is this piece:
It would not separate this from the petals. The tongue and groove is a tight fit, even after sanding. If you can simply have 6 petals with at least three alignment pinholes per petal (e.g., 2mm holes, so one can use 1.75mm filament for attaching).
I really like the way the base attaches to the petals in the new system. In my glue up, I still had gaps - but overall it was still a very satisfying fit.
Some pics below, In the first pic, I'm trying to highlight the joints that went together really well (in GREEN) or poorly (RED). Notice how:
- all joints between the petals came out perfect.
- The edge (smaller triangular) pieces were problematic.
- tongue and grove were a tight fit.
- once you glued the petal to one side, it was hard to perfectly align with the petal on the other side
- the base attachment also went together well, but it ended up have 0.75 mm gaps on one side.
If we just keep the full petals and include one more alignment pin hole (so at least 3 total) --- that would vastly improve the accuracy of assembly.
The other thing worth thinking about is using CA glue for all tight-fitting parts (because its shockingly strong) and using some other filling glue with better filing ability for areas where some gaps are expected.
Thanks for your elaborate report, much appreciated.
Did you sand the sides of the petals prior to gluing them? (Those not lying on the print bed.) These need to be really flat for a good fit of all the other parts.
- If you or anyone else encounter a too tight fit, just let me know, I can easily provide parts with a bit larger clearances. This depends a lot on particular print conditions and there's no one value that fits all. I guess I should always include several versions in the kit.
Did you sand the sides of the petals prior to gluing them? (Those not lying on the print bed.) These need to be really flat for a good fit of all the other parts.
- If you or anyone else encounter a too tight fit, just let me know, I can easily provide parts with a bit larger clearances. This depends a lot on particular print conditions and there's no one value that fits all. I guess I should always include several versions in the kit.
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When I was putting large horns together from more smaller parts, I used alignment holes and pins. The printed hole is smaller than nominal, so it needs to be drilled. I used pieces of threaded rod or even wooden pins. For a good fit it is critical to remove all the overshoots in the corners - with a sharp knife or a scraping card. If the alignment holes/pinsa are to be printed, pyramid shape worked really well.
So, this would be the full petal. There's an increased overhang near the top but it doesn't present a big problem, IMO.
Even if it doesn't print perfectly, it's still the back side.
I left the pin holes 1.9 mm in the STL and I also couldn't fit a filament pin. I can make it 2 mm (or more), but maybe it just needs a drill. I just don't want to risk they arew too loose.
Even if it doesn't print perfectly, it's still the back side.
I left the pin holes 1.9 mm in the STL and I also couldn't fit a filament pin. I can make it 2 mm (or more), but maybe it just needs a drill. I just don't want to risk they arew too loose.
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I think this would work better. If you're comfortable sharing, I don't mind starting another print this evening with this design.
Also - can the recess of the mounting holes be removed? Given the curvature of the horn, it's sometimes challenging to get an L-key at the right angle to bolt the horn to the driver. Having a straight-through bolt that can be tightened from the side using a wrench may be a bit easier. Certainly not essential.
Good point, no problem. I have a short(ed) L-key for all this work. Couldn't imagine doing without 🙂