Member
Joined 2004
Too Much Info???
just kiddin'
i've read this entire thread over the past few days.....the amount of info here is incredible.....
ace, keep up the good work.....your proj looks amazing.....easily one of the best for a newbie like myself to get ideas as how to start a simpler one but still get good results.......and thanx for answering my thread so quickly.......
i plan on getting one of those playstation portable lcd's and the same focal lense you're using to start mine.....for $11 i can't pass that puppy up.........
hopefully the lcd screen will be easily accessible from the rear....
i plan on making a 5 sided box of mirrors to place my light source in to get as much of the light as possible from it....is it possible to use plain old store bought mirrors for this purpose or are special mirrors required?
from the mirror i plan on using my 2 fresnels (if possible) to send the light straight through the lcd.....from there going right to the focal lense......will this work or will i need to bend the light again to get it through the final lense?
if i do need to manipulate it further.....how do you recommend doing it?....is that just another lense bought from a store or site that will gather the light and send it to the center of the final lense?.........
good lord i'm a newbie.........
anybody who wants to answer or chime in is welcome.......
thanx,
JoHn
just kiddin'
i've read this entire thread over the past few days.....the amount of info here is incredible.....
ace, keep up the good work.....your proj looks amazing.....easily one of the best for a newbie like myself to get ideas as how to start a simpler one but still get good results.......and thanx for answering my thread so quickly.......
i plan on getting one of those playstation portable lcd's and the same focal lense you're using to start mine.....for $11 i can't pass that puppy up.........
hopefully the lcd screen will be easily accessible from the rear....
i plan on making a 5 sided box of mirrors to place my light source in to get as much of the light as possible from it....is it possible to use plain old store bought mirrors for this purpose or are special mirrors required?
from the mirror i plan on using my 2 fresnels (if possible) to send the light straight through the lcd.....from there going right to the focal lense......will this work or will i need to bend the light again to get it through the final lense?
if i do need to manipulate it further.....how do you recommend doing it?....is that just another lense bought from a store or site that will gather the light and send it to the center of the final lense?.........
good lord i'm a newbie.........
anybody who wants to answer or chime in is welcome.......
thanx,
JoHn
hey lowjack
i'm a bit of a newbie myself but i've been following this and other threads for over a year.
my advice is wait for ace's plans.
its the most advanced 'DIY' setup i've seen - and the knowledge that ace has applied is exceptional.
he talks straight, and the advice he gives is straight, and the quality of workmanship is excellent.
thats my opinion anyway.
i'm a bit of a newbie myself but i've been following this and other threads for over a year.
my advice is wait for ace's plans.
its the most advanced 'DIY' setup i've seen - and the knowledge that ace has applied is exceptional.
he talks straight, and the advice he gives is straight, and the quality of workmanship is excellent.
thats my opinion anyway.
ace3000_1 said:
heya ace. i got my lilliput. meanwhile you did excellent workmanship.
btw. anyone interested in pj-pictures w a lilliput 7" ?
well, there is surrounding light and the pictures aren't frozen.
http://web102.sun-15.de/forum/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=26289#26289
and, there is a German "How-To" including plans.
http://www.wschmid.de/Downloads/Beamer-Doku.pdf
keep u updated with my handicrafts on my lilli 7" pj.
I_eat_flowers
What do u mean did? i still am lol, ive seen that guide, there are a few things in there that causes a high damage risk and creates more work, ie the way the lcd is taken apart is a bad way, another example is the frensel cutting method, with a hand saw it causes unwanted acrylic particles that can scratch the plexi if not carful and dirt, also it can damage the rings edges (wich is important) and if that saw grabs crack! lol on another note here are a few pics taken of mine, sorry for the realy crap pics as u know due to my cam, brighten the image up by about 6-8x and thats the brightness in real life, also the projector wasnt fully focused here either but it was close, here is a shot of the screen door, this is in xga and the picture projected in xga is quite a fair bit darker then the 800x350 res, ive had mine at 800x600 and its bright as all %$&#, its the reso id recomend.
Attachments
Ok here is another shot, the abnormalites are the cam fooling around with my paicents, and its dark from the cam, its not the whole image just some as this is taken out of a doorway because in this room there isnt any room lol, its darker on the left due to me causing a shadow while i was taking a pic, this is also not on a proper screen either but still fully watchable with a 100w light on 1m away from the screen.
Trev
p.s i hope u get the idea as these pics sux bigtime! lol and for some reason its yellow instead of white. also this pic was taken with no tripod so the blur is from my shacking hand.
Trev
p.s i hope u get the idea as these pics sux bigtime! lol and for some reason its yellow instead of white. also this pic was taken with no tripod so the blur is from my shacking hand.
Attachments
nice work though;
but get urself a good cam and give us some proper pics; can't wait to see them *gg*
but get urself a good cam and give us some proper pics; can't wait to see them *gg*
i eat flowers, is this guy selling this guide? if he is i wouldnt buy it, do u know why? well its got plenty of pictures and tells u what its all about ect and has schamatics but theres no plans, how can u build somthing from just a picture or a schamatic with just the optical focal length's? a plan is somthing that is the actual item separated into a series of parts with all angles, measurments and holes marked out with a size, angles ect on paper, so u can make an exact replica of the proto model, none of this is in the guide and this is what u need to make somthing of the same and for it to work the same, i bet any noob that buys those wouldnt have a clue on how big to make the box and how to get the centers ect for the optics, all of this will be in my plans as u saw in the example i posted back a while ago of a plan, there arent exactly any focal lengths on a face plate now is there? lol another thing i see wrong in his design is the fact its very dim for a 250w hqi, it should be way way brighter then what it is, mine starts to hurt my eyes with just a 14k lm lamp id hate to see a 250w in it lol would go blind, with that being said ill try a 250w later on and see just how much brighter it realy is, maybe make an aditional set of plans for the 250w upgrade model, will be free to those who bought the original plans before a certian time limit.
Trev
Trev
hehe yeah my cams bad as man, even for day pics outside its dark, ill get a new one as soon as i can aford it, ill try to get somthing with an ajustable shutter and a big lens ect, should be ok then for the night shots, the lens on this cam i have now is not much bigger then a bee's dick lol, so it cant let enough light in for night shots, that and the fact its got a fast shutter speed, i think 200 000 from memory thats not ajustable.
Trev
ive got a small update for u guys also, the frensel has been chosen, its a custom frensel cut to size with the apropiate focals to match, they will be precision machined cut to size and will fit strait into the lcd unit fully aligned, they are also comercial projector grade with a high optical grading, they should be here soon, the price for these will be 30 - $35, u will only need 1 set, ive totally redesigned the light engine to save time, costs and to make things alot easier for u guys, also to help increse airflow, by getting the custom frensel it gives us a maximum light coverage with a maximum brightness, believe me they are bright, so the parts that u guys will now need is: 1 reflector, 1 condenser, 1 frensel, 1 fs mirror and 1 copy lens, this works out to be cheaper, easier, and now that we have custom frensels we now have a even more super bright image, also the pyramid is easier to make, it will be somthing to make in an afternoon rather then over 2-3days, it is also very important that u use mylar, the mylar i have is industrial mylar, it takes alot more heat then the thin standard mylar, is self adheasive and is also more reflective, this mylar in this new design gives us a significant increase in brightness gain, this can be obtained from cruser for $15 for a foot, u will only need 1 foot to line the whole inside of the pyramid.
I have stress tested various things, trying to blow up and to destroy things so we know just how much our project can take just incase of a failure on fans ect, i did a test on the heat, i turned the fans off for 25mins, after 5mins the light box gets very warm, after 10mins hot, after 15mins still very hot, after 25mins its darn freeking hot and will discolour the outer mylar covering i have used for the outside coloured design, (this isnt the mylar thats in the pyramid), that was 1 test, no damage except for the cloured mylar on the outside, another test was on the condenser, i placed all lighting components vertical so the condenser would run hotter taking more raidiating heat from the lamp, the lamp was also placed very close to the condenser (1mm), then fans went off for 25mins, all was ok until the fans wer turned back on, in an instant bang! lol the condenser cracked into a perfect 2 sectional peice, this happend because of a sudden change in temp, it had a sudden cold flow going over such a hot surface, the condenser would have been as hot as the bulb, (600 deg C)some may ask why didnt the bulb blow? well this is because the bulb creates enough heat when turned on to keep the outer glass hot when a cold airflow suddenly hits it, if the bulb is turned off when red hot and the cold air had gone over it the bulb would have gone bang so the bulb has to be left on in this testing, testing u guys wont be doing lol, ok while the condenser was being tested the pyramid with the mylar was also on top with a frensel , the mylar didnt get very hot at all infact there is no sign of any damage and this is right next to the condenser so the mylar is all good, the frensel also is fine with the heat and with the fans turned off, so at this stage in an acedential fan failure u want to turn the projector off at no latter then 25mins or serious damage will start to occur creating a fire hazard, make sure u solder your wires and insulate them in the proper manner, that will severly reduce the risk of any fan failure, bushed fans last for 15000hrs while single ball bearing with a bush last for 25000 - 35000hrs and double ball bearing last for 50000hrs, lcd's last for 100000hrs and ballasts last for 100000hrs, psu's and other items are questionable, this will depend on how much u draw from the psu and if u have clean power to the psu, but most comp psu's last for 50000hrs if looked after, ignightors will last 100000hrs if u look after them, the way to shorten the life on the ignightor is trying to turn on the lamp while the bulb is still warm, this will also cause damage to the ballast and cap, so to save the life of these make sure the bulb is cool before u start it, on my bulb its typically 15-25mins dependant of ambient temp to cool down for a restart, anyway guys just thought id mention some of this to u guys who maybe worried about saftey and u can also get an idea on how long componets will last.
Trev
I have stress tested various things, trying to blow up and to destroy things so we know just how much our project can take just incase of a failure on fans ect, i did a test on the heat, i turned the fans off for 25mins, after 5mins the light box gets very warm, after 10mins hot, after 15mins still very hot, after 25mins its darn freeking hot and will discolour the outer mylar covering i have used for the outside coloured design, (this isnt the mylar thats in the pyramid), that was 1 test, no damage except for the cloured mylar on the outside, another test was on the condenser, i placed all lighting components vertical so the condenser would run hotter taking more raidiating heat from the lamp, the lamp was also placed very close to the condenser (1mm), then fans went off for 25mins, all was ok until the fans wer turned back on, in an instant bang! lol the condenser cracked into a perfect 2 sectional peice, this happend because of a sudden change in temp, it had a sudden cold flow going over such a hot surface, the condenser would have been as hot as the bulb, (600 deg C)some may ask why didnt the bulb blow? well this is because the bulb creates enough heat when turned on to keep the outer glass hot when a cold airflow suddenly hits it, if the bulb is turned off when red hot and the cold air had gone over it the bulb would have gone bang so the bulb has to be left on in this testing, testing u guys wont be doing lol, ok while the condenser was being tested the pyramid with the mylar was also on top with a frensel , the mylar didnt get very hot at all infact there is no sign of any damage and this is right next to the condenser so the mylar is all good, the frensel also is fine with the heat and with the fans turned off, so at this stage in an acedential fan failure u want to turn the projector off at no latter then 25mins or serious damage will start to occur creating a fire hazard, make sure u solder your wires and insulate them in the proper manner, that will severly reduce the risk of any fan failure, bushed fans last for 15000hrs while single ball bearing with a bush last for 25000 - 35000hrs and double ball bearing last for 50000hrs, lcd's last for 100000hrs and ballasts last for 100000hrs, psu's and other items are questionable, this will depend on how much u draw from the psu and if u have clean power to the psu, but most comp psu's last for 50000hrs if looked after, ignightors will last 100000hrs if u look after them, the way to shorten the life on the ignightor is trying to turn on the lamp while the bulb is still warm, this will also cause damage to the ballast and cap, so to save the life of these make sure the bulb is cool before u start it, on my bulb its typically 15-25mins dependant of ambient temp to cool down for a restart, anyway guys just thought id mention some of this to u guys who maybe worried about saftey and u can also get an idea on how long componets will last.
Trev
ace3000_1 said:
heya bud, my english is really poor lol.
agree w u ref. the cutting method of the fresnel. it'll be better done by a machine.
i will not judge the pictures neither urs nor the guy have taken. there's no comparably basis eg same exposure time, use of a tripod a.s.o.
the plans aren't really plans. agree. it's just a source of inspiration lol. i'd never buy the "plans". i build my own one.
do u have a better method to take the lcd apart? if yes, any pictures available?
another question. is there any facility to set the reso exact to 800x480? "my desktop-->properties allows 800x600, 640x480 or even higher but the 800x480
i_eat_flowers
Heya buddy, i realise of your english and i was saying it out as a joke lol, as for the screen shots yeah none are acurate there are too manny varibles with exsposure isues ect, pics are just a guide, mines a bad one i must admit lol.
As for the reso question have u tried power strip? u can set up customs reso's in this to the lcd's native with the asiciated timing ect, if u have a later model nividia fx type card this card has this feature built in to create custom reso's for particular monitor aplications, abit of fooling around and u will get it right, just watch the timming.
Trev
ace3000_1 said:
@ ace
unfortunately no nvidia fx-card. thx for the power strip advice. if i'll not find the corresponding link i'll ask u .
timing 60 hz must be okay.
gonna ride home now and take apart the lilli. ;-)
results this weekend (i hope).
i_eat_flowers
john
im hoping 4 weeks, most of my hard work is done now that the light engine has been sorted, just a matter of making a new pyramid to suit, invent a way for the front fan to inject air into the lcd unit and then ill remake the new finalised lcd unit with the coresponding plan (wont take long, a couple of days), the thing thats taking this so long apart from the shipping delays before hand is the fact all that i do i must document for when i draw the plans on the comp, thats what takes the time up, all holes have to be documented for size in 2 directions, the hole size ect, angle bent ect ect, the plans wont take long to draw up at all, its the guide that will be killer lol, that and my financial status from buying so much stock though that should soon change, all parts will be here very very soon, the condensers and reflectors are in, the frensel in in about 2-3weeks tops, the fs mirror i havnt heard from but will get onto, mylar sorted, but yeah im hoping 4 weeks, hoping its the longest, 4 weeks is like 1 week to me latley lol.
Trev
im hoping 4 weeks, most of my hard work is done now that the light engine has been sorted, just a matter of making a new pyramid to suit, invent a way for the front fan to inject air into the lcd unit and then ill remake the new finalised lcd unit with the coresponding plan (wont take long, a couple of days), the thing thats taking this so long apart from the shipping delays before hand is the fact all that i do i must document for when i draw the plans on the comp, thats what takes the time up, all holes have to be documented for size in 2 directions, the hole size ect, angle bent ect ect, the plans wont take long to draw up at all, its the guide that will be killer lol, that and my financial status from buying so much stock though that should soon change, all parts will be here very very soon, the condensers and reflectors are in, the frensel in in about 2-3weeks tops, the fs mirror i havnt heard from but will get onto, mylar sorted, but yeah im hoping 4 weeks, hoping its the longest, 4 weeks is like 1 week to me latley lol.
Trev
Ive got a question for you guys, whats 1mm in inches? also does anyone know where there is a good conversion table on the net?
thanks
Trev
thanks
Trev
Thanks Khman, much apreciated, this should help a few people out.
For the units made out of aluminum, we need to get ourselfs some 1mm thick aluminum, roughly a 6ft x 4ft sheet will be suficient, this should cover all made out of aluminum with minimum wastage.
Trev
For the units made out of aluminum, we need to get ourselfs some 1mm thick aluminum, roughly a 6ft x 4ft sheet will be suficient, this should cover all made out of aluminum with minimum wastage.
Trev
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