I am curious about the amount of light being used in the pj .. at what point is it *too much* light? Is that possible? is there a point at which the light starts compromising contrast and darker hues?
Yeah sure u can have too much light, it will mess with the colouring and contrast, the hue will become too high and wash the image out with light hurting your eyes, with mine at 100inches diagonal it could be just that tad brighter, and that tad brighter ill get before those plans are finalised, with that being said the image hurts my eyes abit, its just the nature of your eyes reacting to light, the brightness that it will be well im aiming for is the same brightness as my crt and i have my crts brightness and contrast up full so u can get an idea roughly what it would be like, with the new frensel and this reflector modd im sure we will be right, also my mirror is loosing my intensity aswell so realy the main thing at the moment thats using the light is the frensel and the mirror, once those 2 have been upgraded all colours should display at the right intensity and it wont have any mist in the image, right now it has just a tad of mist in it, thats from this crap mirror. The brightness right now is just off of the crt's brightness by the way and remember this is not on a high gain screen either.
Trev
Slickhorn give these guys a call about the bulb and ballst, they have the bulb in stock for $37, make sure u get the 4200k though and ask for a g12 socket.
http://www.productionadvantageonline.com/wigllights.htm
Trev
http://www.productionadvantageonline.com/wigllights.htm
Trev
thanks for the link ace. I'll give them a call and ask if they can supply ballasts as well. I'll post details once I talk to them.
I just got off the phone with those folks -- here's the news:
apparently, the cdm-t bulbs are only used in theatrical light fixtures. They don't have or know of any supplier for ballasts for the bulb, which is apparently a cdm-t type 6 bulb?
Anyway, they are going to make some calls and see if they can locate any replacement balasts for this bulb. I'm hopeing to hear back from them by the end of the week...
I suspect the best way to go will be to make the ballast as per mathais' directions... http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=295202#post295202
I just got off the phone with those folks -- here's the news:
apparently, the cdm-t bulbs are only used in theatrical light fixtures. They don't have or know of any supplier for ballasts for the bulb, which is apparently a cdm-t type 6 bulb?
Anyway, they are going to make some calls and see if they can locate any replacement balasts for this bulb. I'm hopeing to hear back from them by the end of the week...
I suspect the best way to go will be to make the ballast as per mathais' directions... http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=295202#post295202
ace3000_1 said:
Yeah sure u can have too much light, it will mess with the colouring and contrast, the hue will become too high and wash the image out with light hurting your eyes, with mine at 100inches diagonal it could be just that tad brighter, and that tad brighter ill get before those plans are finalised, with that being said the image hurts my eyes abit, its just the nature of your eyes reacting to light, the brightness that it will be well im aiming for is the same brightness as my crt and i have my crts brightness and contrast up full so u can get an idea roughly what it would be like, with the new frensel and this reflector modd im sure we will be right, also my mirror is loosing my intensity aswell so realy the main thing at the moment thats using the light is the frensel and the mirror, once those 2 have been upgraded all colours should display at the right intensity and it wont have any mist in the image, right now it has just a tad of mist in it, thats from this crap mirror. The brightness right now is just off of the crt's brightness by the way and remember this is not on a high gain screen either.
Trev
man (like everybody else) I wish I could see this in action!!
I'm still confused though...if it's that bright, won't a 250 MH light engine be too bright?
I can't wait to hear what your tests show about the different light sources...
@ slickhorn.
appropriate ballast, ignitor and capacitor i've found here : http://www.hellolights.com/15unmagm81ba.html
it'll work with the cdm-t type g12 socket. don't worry. same lamp voltage and ignition voltage.
@ace:
i read this thread since december and was inspired to do a similar job as you've done. nice, nice design !!!!!so i've "stolen" the layout of the parts.
i'm just still waiting for the lilliput. not easy to get that here in germany for a reasonable price. now we've made a bulk order in hong kong.
the housing: http://web102.sun-15.de/forum/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=22090#22090
and pj's w/o the display as well as the layout : http://web102.sun-15.de/forum/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=23285#23285
again, thx for the inspiration.
appropriate ballast, ignitor and capacitor i've found here : http://www.hellolights.com/15unmagm81ba.html
it'll work with the cdm-t type g12 socket. don't worry. same lamp voltage and ignition voltage.
@ace:
i read this thread since december and was inspired to do a similar job as you've done. nice, nice design !!!!!so i've "stolen" the layout of the parts.
i'm just still waiting for the lilliput. not easy to get that here in germany for a reasonable price. now we've made a bulk order in hong kong.
the housing: http://web102.sun-15.de/forum/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=22090#22090
and pj's w/o the display as well as the layout : http://web102.sun-15.de/forum/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=23285#23285
again, thx for the inspiration.
I_eat_flowers said:@ slickhorn.
appropriate ballast, ignitor and capacitor i've found here : http://www.hellolights.com/15unmagm81ba.html
it'll work with the cdm-t type g12 socket. don't worry. same lamp voltage and ignition voltage.
thanks very much for the link!
i read this thread since december and was inspired to do a similar job as you've done. nice, nice design !!!!!so i've "stolen" the layout of the parts.
Nice one, its not exactly the same as mine so im not worried lol but yeah your doing a nice job on it, just mind the heat in the enclosure, be sure to keep us updated on how u go with it with a screen shot as i cant take any screen shots right now because of my cam is crap.
Trev
ace3000_1 said:Yeah kind of exspensive though
Am I correct in thinking that any ANSI M81 ballast will be appropriate?
http://www.aplussupply.com/howardballast/metal-halide.htm has one, near the bottom.
Here are the specs: http://solaballast.com/pdf/E-MZA0FT150F.pdf
It's a little cheaper...
slickhorn said:
Am I correct in thinking that any ANSI M81 ballast will be appropriate?
http://www.aplussupply.com/howardballast/metal-halide.htm has one, near the bottom.
Here are the specs: http://solaballast.com/pdf/E-MZA0FT150F.pdf
It's a little cheaper...
yeah,that'll work. it's a nice one. ...and abit cheaper.ignitor and ballast in one housing saves space. due to higher amperage consumption i'd advice to use a capacitor too. parallel to black and white wire.
M81 is just da description. to find appropriate ballast compare lamp- and ignition-voltage as per datasheet of ya lamp. if it's the same then it'll work.
ace3000_1 said:
Nice one, its not exactly the same as mine so im not worried lol but yeah your doing a nice job on it, just mind the heat in the enclosure, be sure to keep us updated on how u go with it with a screen shot as i cant take any screen shots right now because of my cam is crap.
Trev
heya trev,
well, it's merely the layout and not the design lol. after 4hrs testing no probs w the heat.drilled holes in the bottom
and on top a metal honeycomb-grid. natural convection. blowers work well too.
gonna keep ya updated as soon as i've got the lilliput. i wanna be ready at the end of next week, maybe.
😉
i wanna be ready at the end of next week, maybe.
Nice, hey have u got a pdf for the spec's of the light your using? i have seen those bulbs around and they are tiny as hell but from memory not cheap, if i could get a spec sheet and a price from u that would be great thanks.
Trev
ace3000_1 said:
Nice, hey have u got a pdf for the spec's of the light your using? i have seen those bulbs around and they are tiny as hell but from memory not cheap, if i could get a spec sheet and a price from u that would be great thanks.
Trev
heya trev, pdf is here : http://www.osram.de/pdf/service_corner/technicalinfo/152Wd.pdf. i've got mine from www.rockshop.de.(they'v rised prices immediately after publishing my results lol) those lamps are built in moving-heads for discotheque illumination. the type i use is the hti 152 from osram.(2000hrs lifetime, socket gy9,5). same type is from GE. it's the item CSS 150.Unfortunately just 1000 hrs lifetime. all that works with common ballasts and ignitors for mh-lamps. prices around 45 to 69 euro. i havn't got a clue where to buy in spain. look for suppliers for stage lighting.
and.....get a better cam. 😉
HTI 152
Sylvania makes it. You can go to their website and search for HTI 152
Heres a Source
http://www.protheatrical.com/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=315
Direct from Sylvania website:
Abbrev. With Packaging Info. HTI152W 95V 12/CS 1/SKU
Application Entertainment and Effect Lighting, Fiber Optic
Average Luminance (cd/cm2) 4200
Average Rated Life (hr) 2000
Base GY9.5 Bipin Prefocus
Class C (gas)
Color Rendering Index (CRI) 90
Color Temperature (K) 5000
Cooling Convection
Current (A) 1.8
Distance a (mm) 30
Electrode Gap (cold) (mm) 6.75
Family Brand Name HTI
Hot Restart No
Lamp Finish Clear
Length l (mm) 48
Length l max. (mm) 48
Light Center Length - LCL (mm) 30
Luminous Flux (lm) 9500
Maximum Base Temperature °C 230
Maximum Overall Length - MOL (mm) 48
Nominal Voltage (V) 95.00
Nominal Wattage (W) 150.00
Operating Position Any
Type of Current AC
Sylvania makes it. You can go to their website and search for HTI 152
Heres a Source
http://www.protheatrical.com/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=315
Direct from Sylvania website:
Abbrev. With Packaging Info. HTI152W 95V 12/CS 1/SKU
Application Entertainment and Effect Lighting, Fiber Optic
Average Luminance (cd/cm2) 4200
Average Rated Life (hr) 2000
Base GY9.5 Bipin Prefocus
Class C (gas)
Color Rendering Index (CRI) 90
Color Temperature (K) 5000
Cooling Convection
Current (A) 1.8
Distance a (mm) 30
Electrode Gap (cold) (mm) 6.75
Family Brand Name HTI
Hot Restart No
Lamp Finish Clear
Length l (mm) 48
Length l max. (mm) 48
Light Center Length - LCL (mm) 30
Luminous Flux (lm) 9500
Maximum Base Temperature °C 230
Maximum Overall Length - MOL (mm) 48
Nominal Voltage (V) 95.00
Nominal Wattage (W) 150.00
Operating Position Any
Type of Current AC
Sylvania Lamps
Once your on the sylvania page for the HTI-152 look at the bottom under additional products documents etc. then open the pdf -- Engineering Bulletin - Technology and Application - Metal Halide Lamps Photo Optics. Interesting Info.
Once your on the sylvania page for the HTI-152 look at the bottom under additional products documents etc. then open the pdf -- Engineering Bulletin - Technology and Application - Metal Halide Lamps Photo Optics. Interesting Info.
Do you know about these bulbs they are arctic blue, the bulbs are Color Temperature (K) 7000
look at this site it has some info on them
http://www.xenonoz.com/aboutxenon.php
look at this site it has some info on them
http://www.xenonoz.com/aboutxenon.php
ace3000_1 said:unfortunatley i cant get onto that link bud. How manny lumens do these bulbs produce?
Trev
hey trev,
yeah,seen that. try http://www.osram.de/suche/ext_search.html?q=hti+152&st=y&st=y&search.x=28&search.y=12 and then the third paragraph "152.pdf". that works. lamp has 10.000 lumens,
light density is 4.200 cd/cm²!, the arc is 6.75 mm (tiny, a small light source).
one of my diy-buddies has a "how-to" under this link including results: http://www.wschmid.de/beamer.htm. well, it's all in german. nevertheless, pictures hasn't to be translated lol.
I Eat Flowers
Thanks for the post, this guys screen shots are dull, must have a bad cam also either that or its not that bright, but with that being said in real life the story is much different, do u have any idea of the size of projected image this guy was using to take the screen shot?
Trev
Thanks for the post, this guys screen shots are dull, must have a bad cam also either that or its not that bright, but with that being said in real life the story is much different, do u have any idea of the size of projected image this guy was using to take the screen shot?
Trev
Do you know about these bulbs they are arctic blue, the bulbs are Color Temperature (K) 7000
Heya buddy ya i know of those lights, they are just not bright enough 3000lm wont give u a very bright image at all and the colour temp on that bulb is too high, the light is blue and not so white, we need a white light thats a very pure white so the colour of the light doesnt afect the colouring of our lcd.
Trev
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