Hey ace -
Thanks for this thread - it's an incredible project you have got running!
And it's been a pleasure to read the posts (It took me a couple of hours last weekend - cause english isn't my mother tongue but I
finally made it...) because of the excellent explanations from you and all the others in the forum.
I'll keep my fingers crossed for a better postal service for the parts you're missing ;-)
Just a question regarding the ir-remote mod - Can I 'split' the wiring so that a pair of wires goes to the controller card and the second pair goes to a plug on the backside of the projector. And from there I could connect it to the htpc and use 'winlirc' etc. so I won't need a second ir-reciever for the htpc. Sorry for bothering you with this question - but I'm not into electronics a lot and it seems that you're a professional...
And ace you can definitely count me in for these great plan.
Roland
Thanks for this thread - it's an incredible project you have got running!
And it's been a pleasure to read the posts (It took me a couple of hours last weekend - cause english isn't my mother tongue but I
finally made it...) because of the excellent explanations from you and all the others in the forum.
I'll keep my fingers crossed for a better postal service for the parts you're missing ;-)
Just a question regarding the ir-remote mod - Can I 'split' the wiring so that a pair of wires goes to the controller card and the second pair goes to a plug on the backside of the projector. And from there I could connect it to the htpc and use 'winlirc' etc. so I won't need a second ir-reciever for the htpc. Sorry for bothering you with this question - but I'm not into electronics a lot and it seems that you're a professional...
And ace you can definitely count me in for these great plan.
Roland
The lilliput unit you are looking for is the xga 7" model without touchscreen. It is 800x480 native. I have one on the way and will be taking it apart on video soon. Stay tuned. You will be able to watch me take it apart and decide for yourself if you want to have go at it yourself. My video should be done sometime at or around when ace has his plans done, and i planned this not coincidentally. If people are interested in the project they can get a disc watch the video and decide if they want to have a go at it. I am toying with the idea of constructing a light engine too, we will see how it goes. I am building my workshop now, I have to pick up some saws and clamps today. Ace has been 100% helpful to me and I hope that people really understand what his projector means in terms of real useability. The light engine itself costs under $100 with bulb, the replacement bulbs are under $50 and they last 12000 hours. THis coupled with the small size makes a unit we can all live with without the rainbow effect and high cost of dlp.
Hi im new to all this what do the different optics do ace3000_1???
Once the light leaves the bulb im lost until it hits the mirror?
I would just like to say your project is great, by far the best ive come across
Once the light leaves the bulb im lost until it hits the mirror?
I would just like to say your project is great, by far the best ive come across
beforcade
heya buddy nice post and ideas, aspestos is actually one of the best insulaters u can buy but we have a problem in most countries and that is its illegal due to saftey issues, im asuming your talking about the real aspestos and not the new safe imitation stuff lol, there are a few ways to insulate the inside of cases and its not a real problem in that respect but what is more of a problem is keeping the lcd and frensel cool, as for the comp case being used for a case yeah sure u can use one and actually i was thinking in using one but i thought id make somthing abit more apealing, just a matter of personal choice and weather u like a chellenge or not, ill take a pic soon and post it of my base plate up against the size of my comp tower for u to see the size comparison.
As for cutting the frensels cruser uses a router table to cut his, u have to be very clean when doing it as any scraps laying around will scratch the frensel, unfortunatley frensels are very soft and scratch very very easily, the way i cut mine is with a miter saw, its is a hand miter saw, basically the same as a hand saw, i mark out the sizes with a non pernament masrker that has no harsh chemicals to damage the frensel in anyway draw the line and cut it strait, now the secret is to keep the blade clean, take your time and dont try to make the whole cut in one go, cut some then pull the blade out and wipe it clean and start to cut aging, the reason for doing this is so the blade doesnt grab, if that blade grabs u have a cracked frenseland thats somthing no one wants.
As for the focal changing well its a mystery actually as one of the 3 frensels i have thats a different brand actually had the focal longer, the other ones that i had the focals didnt change, cruse and jcb also didnt have a focal change in their frensels but they only trimmed theirs by an inch, mines cut back to about half its size, as soon as i get my ohp frensel in wich should be here monday ill soon tell u if the focal for a ohp frensels changes or not.
Trev
heya buddy nice post and ideas, aspestos is actually one of the best insulaters u can buy but we have a problem in most countries and that is its illegal due to saftey issues, im asuming your talking about the real aspestos and not the new safe imitation stuff lol, there are a few ways to insulate the inside of cases and its not a real problem in that respect but what is more of a problem is keeping the lcd and frensel cool, as for the comp case being used for a case yeah sure u can use one and actually i was thinking in using one but i thought id make somthing abit more apealing, just a matter of personal choice and weather u like a chellenge or not, ill take a pic soon and post it of my base plate up against the size of my comp tower for u to see the size comparison.
As for cutting the frensels cruser uses a router table to cut his, u have to be very clean when doing it as any scraps laying around will scratch the frensel, unfortunatley frensels are very soft and scratch very very easily, the way i cut mine is with a miter saw, its is a hand miter saw, basically the same as a hand saw, i mark out the sizes with a non pernament masrker that has no harsh chemicals to damage the frensel in anyway draw the line and cut it strait, now the secret is to keep the blade clean, take your time and dont try to make the whole cut in one go, cut some then pull the blade out and wipe it clean and start to cut aging, the reason for doing this is so the blade doesnt grab, if that blade grabs u have a cracked frenseland thats somthing no one wants.
As for the focal changing well its a mystery actually as one of the 3 frensels i have thats a different brand actually had the focal longer, the other ones that i had the focals didnt change, cruse and jcb also didnt have a focal change in their frensels but they only trimmed theirs by an inch, mines cut back to about half its size, as soon as i get my ohp frensel in wich should be here monday ill soon tell u if the focal for a ohp frensels changes or not.
Trev
Texag
heya buddy ok the specs are as follows on this lilliput monitor with a hitachi lcd inside:
Resolution native 800x480 pixels
resolution compressed 800x600, 1024x768 and others inbetween except for 640x480
contrast 200:1
colours 264k 18bit enhanced to 24bit via controller
inputs 2x composite video 1x vga
comes with remote
size of lcd in its original frame, 165mm wide x 106mm high
They wer the specs for this minitor and the sizes are what will fit in the model in the plans, to buy one have a look at this link, i can garentee u u wont find it cheaper then here:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=38650&item=2454511266
Now the benifits are a few things, u have size, look, the light engine is totally optimised enabling more light from the bulb, more features and a nice resell value and a few other things like customised modds ect, the reso isnt that bad, ive had mine on a test bed for a while now and im not complaining, the brightness is roughly 3x the brightness of the pictures posted in this thread with the same amount of ambient lighting and with an even light coverage, the pictures are at the bottom of this page and are chinese, they are the screen shots.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=4240&perpage=15&pagenumber=115
Trev
heya buddy ok the specs are as follows on this lilliput monitor with a hitachi lcd inside:
Resolution native 800x480 pixels
resolution compressed 800x600, 1024x768 and others inbetween except for 640x480
contrast 200:1
colours 264k 18bit enhanced to 24bit via controller
inputs 2x composite video 1x vga
comes with remote
size of lcd in its original frame, 165mm wide x 106mm high
They wer the specs for this minitor and the sizes are what will fit in the model in the plans, to buy one have a look at this link, i can garentee u u wont find it cheaper then here:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=38650&item=2454511266
Now the benifits are a few things, u have size, look, the light engine is totally optimised enabling more light from the bulb, more features and a nice resell value and a few other things like customised modds ect, the reso isnt that bad, ive had mine on a test bed for a while now and im not complaining, the brightness is roughly 3x the brightness of the pictures posted in this thread with the same amount of ambient lighting and with an even light coverage, the pictures are at the bottom of this page and are chinese, they are the screen shots.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=4240&perpage=15&pagenumber=115
Trev
Zerbos
Heya zerbos thanks for the nice words and im glad u like my design, thanks also for keeping your fingers crossed on the postal service, as for your remote modd not sure what your trying to do here as im not too fimilar with the aplication your running but generaly no u cant use the same reciever but u could use the same senser maybe, the receiver is the eprom chip on the lcds controller pcb, its programed for its comands and features, if u could get the software we could actually program this thing to do alot more lol but getting that isnt too easy, not only that we wouldnt want to loose our original data in the process nor stuff up our original chip, if your interested in other modds with a plugg thats out the back u could make a screen automated with it going up and down when the projector is turned on and off, thats an easy one, or u could turn on a htpc but u would have to shut that down before turning the projector off, u could even set it up so that the htpc turns the projector on and off, the possibilities are endless and its just upto your imagination and your needs. in mine i did the all on off modd wich is a fairly standard modd if u ask me if u want it to be semi pro atleast lol but another i may incorporate is the up and down screen modd as i may be making a automated screen next.
Trev
Heya zerbos thanks for the nice words and im glad u like my design, thanks also for keeping your fingers crossed on the postal service, as for your remote modd not sure what your trying to do here as im not too fimilar with the aplication your running but generaly no u cant use the same reciever but u could use the same senser maybe, the receiver is the eprom chip on the lcds controller pcb, its programed for its comands and features, if u could get the software we could actually program this thing to do alot more lol but getting that isnt too easy, not only that we wouldnt want to loose our original data in the process nor stuff up our original chip, if your interested in other modds with a plugg thats out the back u could make a screen automated with it going up and down when the projector is turned on and off, thats an easy one, or u could turn on a htpc but u would have to shut that down before turning the projector off, u could even set it up so that the htpc turns the projector on and off, the possibilities are endless and its just upto your imagination and your needs. in mine i did the all on off modd wich is a fairly standard modd if u ask me if u want it to be semi pro atleast lol but another i may incorporate is the up and down screen modd as i may be making a automated screen next.
Trev
Danielb
heya buddy thanks for the great words, its nice to hear those words from time to time and im glad i can give u some inspiration into making your own projector, the optics would take a while to explain everything in how it works and there is a few trade secrets im not just going to let loose just yet, not only that but that light engine design isnt final, but ill give u a rough idea on how it works.
in a projector u have a reflector, a bulb, a condenser, a lcd, a mirror (in this case) and a projection lens. A reflector will give u the light from the back of the bulb brought forward in the right direction towards the condenser to hit its main target, the lcd, the reflector does give us an increse of light as we are now utilising the both sides of the arc in the bulb where the light comes from, the condenser will capture light and condense it into a beam of light, this beam can be customised to how wide we need it, most pro projectors use 2 condensers as it yeilds a brighter more magnified and controlled beam of light, in my design i utilise this to get the maximum amout of light from the bulb. The frensel captures the light and turns it into a high intensity and bright image plane for the lcd to be lit up, the light then goes through the lcd and hits the mirror, as the frensel is a lens it will collimate this light, the frensel works just like a normal lens but is optimised to be a very low profile and low weight alternative to using a normal lens of the same size, just like a normal lens a frensel has a triangle patten on both sides and once the light has gone through our lcd the lcds image is condensed, it will bounce off of the mirror at a 45deg angle maintaining its triangle and therefore the image can fit through the barrel of the projection lens to be magnified and corrected via that projection lens, then the light just hits the wall and gets reflected back at u to enjoy, its not a hard proccess and its quite efficient also its easy to learn, in the light engine ive designed its abit more technical as focal lengnths are very different and also power to a standard setup to optimise the performance, and thats why i say use the parts im using cos if u dont it wont work weather u use normal parts or not, some one asked me if this was about monopoly or not the otherday in a pm and ill tell u guys right now its not, i beleive in making a good product and i will always get the best out of somthing that i design, im not going to make up plans for u guys to buy thats going to waste your time, money and effort mine too no doubt that will be nothing but a scam, when i design somthing i design it to its full potentional so its safe, has a high performance and so it will last, nothing is about money with me its about quality and saftey, especially for other people who will buy it.
Trev
heya buddy thanks for the great words, its nice to hear those words from time to time and im glad i can give u some inspiration into making your own projector, the optics would take a while to explain everything in how it works and there is a few trade secrets im not just going to let loose just yet, not only that but that light engine design isnt final, but ill give u a rough idea on how it works.
in a projector u have a reflector, a bulb, a condenser, a lcd, a mirror (in this case) and a projection lens. A reflector will give u the light from the back of the bulb brought forward in the right direction towards the condenser to hit its main target, the lcd, the reflector does give us an increse of light as we are now utilising the both sides of the arc in the bulb where the light comes from, the condenser will capture light and condense it into a beam of light, this beam can be customised to how wide we need it, most pro projectors use 2 condensers as it yeilds a brighter more magnified and controlled beam of light, in my design i utilise this to get the maximum amout of light from the bulb. The frensel captures the light and turns it into a high intensity and bright image plane for the lcd to be lit up, the light then goes through the lcd and hits the mirror, as the frensel is a lens it will collimate this light, the frensel works just like a normal lens but is optimised to be a very low profile and low weight alternative to using a normal lens of the same size, just like a normal lens a frensel has a triangle patten on both sides and once the light has gone through our lcd the lcds image is condensed, it will bounce off of the mirror at a 45deg angle maintaining its triangle and therefore the image can fit through the barrel of the projection lens to be magnified and corrected via that projection lens, then the light just hits the wall and gets reflected back at u to enjoy, its not a hard proccess and its quite efficient also its easy to learn, in the light engine ive designed its abit more technical as focal lengnths are very different and also power to a standard setup to optimise the performance, and thats why i say use the parts im using cos if u dont it wont work weather u use normal parts or not, some one asked me if this was about monopoly or not the otherday in a pm and ill tell u guys right now its not, i beleive in making a good product and i will always get the best out of somthing that i design, im not going to make up plans for u guys to buy thats going to waste your time, money and effort mine too no doubt that will be nothing but a scam, when i design somthing i design it to its full potentional so its safe, has a high performance and so it will last, nothing is about money with me its about quality and saftey, especially for other people who will buy it.
Trev
Guys
Ok as for minor updates, all of the reflectors i orderd will be here on monday or tuesday, it has cost me an arm and a legg lol same with the condensers, if u want to buy the right parts email me now and ill send them out strait away, the shipping wont be cheaper if i send the frensels and the reflector/condenser as here in spain it works on wieght so weather u buy all of the gear in one hit and ship the gear in one hit or just a condenser u wont save any money on shipping, the frensels will be here soon but im not going to order 20 in if there isnt a call for 20, so guys let me know also your numbers so i can get the gear in to send out to u, the reflectors are $15 and the condensers are $15 and are brand new, the frensels will be available soon after ive finnished testing, this will be a matter of days now before the testing is finnished and the proto design made pernament, as for the reflectors and condenser thats a pernament design so no worries there if u think im going to change them cos im not, i may have a deal comming up with front surface mirror, if i get this deal they will be about $15 each (dependant of deal) cut to size and will be of a very high quality, im working with 2 companies now on the deal and ill keep u posted on how it goes, right now im just waiting for this ohp frensel sample to get here so i can test it and place an order on wich frensel i decide to use for the best performance although right now its great i beleive i can get it better, it will be optimised for a 100inch image and the main aim is to get it the same brightness as a crt monitor at that size, right now its just a tad off, in a couple of days ill let u guys know of my findings and have a decesion on the frensel to use with a price, for the frensels there will be a set of wedges for each frensel that will be held and strengthend buy this wedge, it is also a heat barrier for the frensel, as normal plexi will use about 1% of the light i have opted to get very high grade optical plexi for the wedges, this stuff isnt cheap, to give u an idea it cost me 227euro's for half a sheet, and half a sheet isnt that much but when it comes to performance its worth it, by all means u wont be paying that but it will be a fraction of the price, i predict the frensels will be about $30 for the whole set, as for why ive set up selling parts well its simple, ive had the run around everytime ive had to get parts, it takes alot of time to find them and the shipping realy sux, also finding the right parts to work is another major problem, although its not such an issue with me it will be with the guys who dont know much about projection and how optics works, so thats one of the reasons, another is saving u money, shipping from here to anywhere in the world is cheap, it works on weight and not on size, it is also the same price to any place in the world and with that being said buying parts from me will save u shipping costs, i also have a high quality control, if i see somthing thats not right i wont send it weather its a scratch or a worped lens, if its the last in stock i will consult the buyer to let them know and they will have the decision on weather to take the one in stock for a lower price or to wait on one that will be coming in, all shipping is done with insurance and is also tracked right to your door and recored, i dont ship any other way unless there is a request by the buyer, another reason is price, i try to get stuff for u guys in bulk for what i can aford, they are the cheapest prices vs quality, if u want to compare my parts to diylabs ect there is no comparison, the parts i choose are hand picked and fully tested first and are made with the highest quality materials, to buy this gear in a normal optical shop i predict the prices to run about $200, for about $60 you would have the main optics for this projector from me, so what it comes to as in why i sell gear is: one stop shopping for all of the gear to make it easy for you guys to get the right parts at the one place, to save u money, a fast eficient reliable service, an honest service, reliable shipping service, high quality optics, good technical suport and comunication, hard to find replacment optics and custom built aplications where the buyer cant fabricate and also custom designs for certain aplications, basically this is all to help u guys out and i dont want to see anyone who buys my plans with a model that doesnt work period! as i said in my last post its not about money for me, its about quality and saftey for u at a cheap price and a fast service, people who are going to buy gear hit me with an email and ill sort u out, i also have paypal.
Trev
Ok as for minor updates, all of the reflectors i orderd will be here on monday or tuesday, it has cost me an arm and a legg lol same with the condensers, if u want to buy the right parts email me now and ill send them out strait away, the shipping wont be cheaper if i send the frensels and the reflector/condenser as here in spain it works on wieght so weather u buy all of the gear in one hit and ship the gear in one hit or just a condenser u wont save any money on shipping, the frensels will be here soon but im not going to order 20 in if there isnt a call for 20, so guys let me know also your numbers so i can get the gear in to send out to u, the reflectors are $15 and the condensers are $15 and are brand new, the frensels will be available soon after ive finnished testing, this will be a matter of days now before the testing is finnished and the proto design made pernament, as for the reflectors and condenser thats a pernament design so no worries there if u think im going to change them cos im not, i may have a deal comming up with front surface mirror, if i get this deal they will be about $15 each (dependant of deal) cut to size and will be of a very high quality, im working with 2 companies now on the deal and ill keep u posted on how it goes, right now im just waiting for this ohp frensel sample to get here so i can test it and place an order on wich frensel i decide to use for the best performance although right now its great i beleive i can get it better, it will be optimised for a 100inch image and the main aim is to get it the same brightness as a crt monitor at that size, right now its just a tad off, in a couple of days ill let u guys know of my findings and have a decesion on the frensel to use with a price, for the frensels there will be a set of wedges for each frensel that will be held and strengthend buy this wedge, it is also a heat barrier for the frensel, as normal plexi will use about 1% of the light i have opted to get very high grade optical plexi for the wedges, this stuff isnt cheap, to give u an idea it cost me 227euro's for half a sheet, and half a sheet isnt that much but when it comes to performance its worth it, by all means u wont be paying that but it will be a fraction of the price, i predict the frensels will be about $30 for the whole set, as for why ive set up selling parts well its simple, ive had the run around everytime ive had to get parts, it takes alot of time to find them and the shipping realy sux, also finding the right parts to work is another major problem, although its not such an issue with me it will be with the guys who dont know much about projection and how optics works, so thats one of the reasons, another is saving u money, shipping from here to anywhere in the world is cheap, it works on weight and not on size, it is also the same price to any place in the world and with that being said buying parts from me will save u shipping costs, i also have a high quality control, if i see somthing thats not right i wont send it weather its a scratch or a worped lens, if its the last in stock i will consult the buyer to let them know and they will have the decision on weather to take the one in stock for a lower price or to wait on one that will be coming in, all shipping is done with insurance and is also tracked right to your door and recored, i dont ship any other way unless there is a request by the buyer, another reason is price, i try to get stuff for u guys in bulk for what i can aford, they are the cheapest prices vs quality, if u want to compare my parts to diylabs ect there is no comparison, the parts i choose are hand picked and fully tested first and are made with the highest quality materials, to buy this gear in a normal optical shop i predict the prices to run about $200, for about $60 you would have the main optics for this projector from me, so what it comes to as in why i sell gear is: one stop shopping for all of the gear to make it easy for you guys to get the right parts at the one place, to save u money, a fast eficient reliable service, an honest service, reliable shipping service, high quality optics, good technical suport and comunication, hard to find replacment optics and custom built aplications where the buyer cant fabricate and also custom designs for certain aplications, basically this is all to help u guys out and i dont want to see anyone who buys my plans with a model that doesnt work period! as i said in my last post its not about money for me, its about quality and saftey for u at a cheap price and a fast service, people who are going to buy gear hit me with an email and ill sort u out, i also have paypal.
Trev
guys just a quick update, if u are going to email me dont put a title hellow as i will delete it, there is a new email viris going around that has a title hellow , so if u have emailed me and didnt get a reply and used that title then u know that i have deleted your mail.
Trev
Trev
nice work ace, do you have an idea of when you will have some screen shots? I am thinking rptv and I would like to see how the lilliput works out. also waiting on nevermore to post some of his results. I am liking the idea of HDTV picture quality without the $4000 price tag. are you planning a descaler/line doubler?
thanks
David
dbc105
thanks
David
dbc105
Heya David, i do have a screen shot but its crap lol i may post it up later or try to take some more in the coming days, still having trouble with this ******* cam i have, the lilliput projects a fine image at 100inches, even above but i think for best performance and brightness (even though its bright in my design) keep it at 100inches diagonal or smaller, the image is not pixelised and the screen door isnt bad at all, this will also depend on the projection screen you are using as some screens produce a haze while others dont, i havnt had time for trying a descaller or line doubler but ill try it out abit latter on, xga compressed on this lcd looks alot better then i thought, better then svga although svga is very big when projected it stands out alot more and seems abit brighter, as for pictures the xga looks better, the pictures realy come out very nice and clear with the corect colours.
Trev
Hey ace,
I will add my thank you's to the list for your inspiration to DIY with a projector!
I too want to go with a 7" LCD design, it's on order. I just had a couple quick questions for you, if you have time. Your thread continues to grow because you seem like a very approachable person for knowledge in this area which is super!
1.What is the cut size of your mirror allowing 1/8" around the outside for mounting? 45 degree angle setup. I know the length will be about 10.5" what is the hieght?
--I want to get a head start on the mirror being cut before my LCD arrives.
2. Is 2 layers of plexi on (1 on each side of the fresnel ) enough for the UV protection? Would lexan provide more?
3. i wonder if pink insulation would provide heat protection around a light box?
I will add my thank you's to the list for your inspiration to DIY with a projector!
I too want to go with a 7" LCD design, it's on order. I just had a couple quick questions for you, if you have time. Your thread continues to grow because you seem like a very approachable person for knowledge in this area which is super!
1.What is the cut size of your mirror allowing 1/8" around the outside for mounting? 45 degree angle setup. I know the length will be about 10.5" what is the hieght?
--I want to get a head start on the mirror being cut before my LCD arrives.
2. Is 2 layers of plexi on (1 on each side of the fresnel ) enough for the UV protection? Would lexan provide more?
3. i wonder if pink insulation would provide heat protection around a light box?
cooldrums
heya buddy thanks for the nice coments
the mirror cut size is 105.5mm x 182mm
2 layers is alot of protection, if u are using the same bulb as me u wont need that protection because the bulb has uv stop built into it, the plexi is also the same as lexan, they are both acrylic, in the usa its called lexan and in other parts of the world its called plexi or plastic glass, if your going to use the plexi wedges as uv filters make sure its uv grade first or it will more then likley fade and do nothing, the main purpose in my design for the wedges is not for uv protection but it will give you the protection aswell.
Hmm not sure if your going on about my design light box or not, with my design u dont need any insulation as it doesnt get hot enough to damage any part or cause fire, i can touch mine no worries with the back of my fingers and its just warm, make sure u use a fan or u will be in trouble with my designed light box as it will get red hot with no airflow, as for the insulation if your building your own design id be very carful and see if it can take 600deg c, i dont think the pink bats could handle that rating and could possibly catch fire even with that fire retardant in it it could smolder and give u poison gasses. Also if not using a fan becarful as bulbs can get too hot and cook, i your going to design one with a fan try not to feed the air onto the bulb as it can also cause them to explode, these bulbs are touchy and all care needs to be acounted for.
A last note for saftey, when playing with any metal halide bulb dont touch the bulb until u have waited 10mins after its been turned off, the temperature variation from your fingers on somthing that is still hot and under high presure has a high risk of explosion, always let it cool down for atleast 10mins, that way u dont burn yourself and the bulb has a less chance of exploding in your face and causing serious bodily harm.
Trev
heya buddy thanks for the nice coments
the mirror cut size is 105.5mm x 182mm
2 layers is alot of protection, if u are using the same bulb as me u wont need that protection because the bulb has uv stop built into it, the plexi is also the same as lexan, they are both acrylic, in the usa its called lexan and in other parts of the world its called plexi or plastic glass, if your going to use the plexi wedges as uv filters make sure its uv grade first or it will more then likley fade and do nothing, the main purpose in my design for the wedges is not for uv protection but it will give you the protection aswell.
Hmm not sure if your going on about my design light box or not, with my design u dont need any insulation as it doesnt get hot enough to damage any part or cause fire, i can touch mine no worries with the back of my fingers and its just warm, make sure u use a fan or u will be in trouble with my designed light box as it will get red hot with no airflow, as for the insulation if your building your own design id be very carful and see if it can take 600deg c, i dont think the pink bats could handle that rating and could possibly catch fire even with that fire retardant in it it could smolder and give u poison gasses. Also if not using a fan becarful as bulbs can get too hot and cook, i your going to design one with a fan try not to feed the air onto the bulb as it can also cause them to explode, these bulbs are touchy and all care needs to be acounted for.
A last note for saftey, when playing with any metal halide bulb dont touch the bulb until u have waited 10mins after its been turned off, the temperature variation from your fingers on somthing that is still hot and under high presure has a high risk of explosion, always let it cool down for atleast 10mins, that way u dont burn yourself and the bulb has a less chance of exploding in your face and causing serious bodily harm.
Trev
Hey thanks for taking the time out of your weekend to repy!
The design I am doing was inspired by yours there's no doubt about it, but there is no comparing sizes of enclosures yours will be nice and small, and top shelf looking. Mine will be a bit unrefined in design the first time around.
I'm using 400 Watt MH the bulb is about 11"X5" as you probably know.
I've built a sheet metal light box with vents built in. Plenty to ventalate. There will be 1/2" inside clearance around the bulb.
The light box will sit indide a plywood 1/2" box at one end. It will have about 3/4" clearance all around it with a fan in back to pull the heat all out. I've used 5 metal discs, almost like pully wheels, but flatter to act as heat sinks under it as well. The wood surrounding the metal box is painted 2 coats with stove paint which can take 1200 degrees i believe. I don't think it will approach that around the box with the fan on. The side of the box facing the glass and fresenel will be sealed off on top and bottom so light will not escape out the fan.
From the light box it will go through some glass then the plexi layered fresnel then the 7" LCD, hit a 45 mirror and out the same lens you have.
The design I am doing was inspired by yours there's no doubt about it, but there is no comparing sizes of enclosures yours will be nice and small, and top shelf looking. Mine will be a bit unrefined in design the first time around.
I'm using 400 Watt MH the bulb is about 11"X5" as you probably know.
I've built a sheet metal light box with vents built in. Plenty to ventalate. There will be 1/2" inside clearance around the bulb.
The light box will sit indide a plywood 1/2" box at one end. It will have about 3/4" clearance all around it with a fan in back to pull the heat all out. I've used 5 metal discs, almost like pully wheels, but flatter to act as heat sinks under it as well. The wood surrounding the metal box is painted 2 coats with stove paint which can take 1200 degrees i believe. I don't think it will approach that around the box with the fan on. The side of the box facing the glass and fresenel will be sealed off on top and bottom so light will not escape out the fan.
From the light box it will go through some glass then the plexi layered fresnel then the 7" LCD, hit a 45 mirror and out the same lens you have.
the mirror cut size is 105.5mm x 182mm
4.153 inches X 7.165 inches
Seems short on the long end to be at a 45 degree angle, or am i reading the demensions wrong?
4.153 inches X 7.165 inches
Seems short on the long end to be at a 45 degree angle, or am i reading the demensions wrong?
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