Heya dan, no just the one frensel behind the lcd, but in order to make the focal smaller u need 2 of them against each other to make 1 cos after u cut the page mag frensel the focal gets 2x longer, if u cut another the same size and put it with the first cut u get the focal roughly back to where it was before the first was cut, i think u sent me an email ill have a look and get onto it as ive a few ive got to get back to and are outstanding, in regarding the parts round up ill have the condensers in stock at the end of this week, reflectors im hoping next week.
Trev
Trev
ace
hey ace
i'll take a copy lens off you if you have any
let me know - i think u had 3 going spare.
hey ace
i'll take a copy lens off you if you have any
let me know - i think u had 3 going spare.
Has anyone seen this article
it describes a projector with a similar shape and an arrangement i have not seen on the bboard.
projector article
daniel
it describes a projector with a similar shape and an arrangement i have not seen on the bboard.
projector article
daniel
Heya johnny, sorry for the late reply, ya sure i can send u one out, the price will be abit higher though cos of the shipping i paid but hit me with an email and ill sort u out.
Trev
heya Dan, thanks for the input with the single lcd projector design, unfortunatley there arent to manny advantages in that design, the real advantage would be the use of other optics rather then a frensel, the down side is good luck to u in finding the right parts and setting it up lol, that dichoric mirror asymbly uses 2 dichoric mirrors and a front surface mirror on the bottom and is aligned to be pixel perfect and that isnt so easy for us diy fellows, but eitherway its a good source of information that we all can learn from and use part of that design in future designs of our own diy projectors.
Trev
Trev
Ok guys time for an update, i have my frensels, ive been optimising the light engine this week and have made a few major changes, we dont need a pyramid in the new light engine design and now we use 3 frensels instead of 2, in this new design it utilises way more light, infact u cant get it any brighter then what ive got it, with or without a pyramid it wouldnt make a difference and by utilising the 3rd frensel we also have a new ajustment that is a first on this forum, we can ajust the light to the edges and also ajust it back to the center, the light is totally even and by having this ajustment we can focus the light very easily to the lcd in a very efiecient manner, from using this 3rd frensel i have mannaged to get the image 1/3rd brighter then just with 2 frensels, put it this way the lcd is way too bright to look at, it is brighter then the actuall light bulb, ive tested this with the front surface mirror, the front surface mirror i have is not what it says it is, it says its reflective coating is 94%, well i got news for u its not, i have some 95% reflective front surface mirror here and u can just see through it, thats how it is meant to be, 5% of the light will shine strait through the mirror so in turn u should faintly see the lcd, on the 94% reflective front surface mirror i have for this projector i can clearly see the lcd so no way is it 94% reflective! im going to buy some from edmund optics and its top notch mirror, from memory its about $40 but its well worth it considering i paid about the same for this crapy so called 94% mirror that isnt actually 94%, so anyway back to the testing, the way i could tell if the lcd is brighter the the light is i held the mirror infront of the light with its condenser in place and just had a glimpse to see how much of the light i could see though it, ok now i put the mirror before the lcd and have a look, the lcd is by far brighter then the light output from the bulbs tinny arc, the frensels im using are 4x in power because ive doubled them up behind the lcd that becomes 8x and because now i have another it should be around 12x in magnifacation on the light source and its a reason why its brighter, i did take a look throught the frensels with the lcd off, i went blind for a good hour lol im talking nearly totally blind, its the same brightness as the arc but the size of the frensel, oh yeah that light engine works all right lol, Ok now regarding parts, i have my condensers in, they are $15 each first in first served and ive only got 10 in this order, the next order will be a week later, the reflectors im still waiting to hear on and they shouldnt be much longer, the frensels also ill have in stock soon, i will cut them for u and they will come with a set of plexi wedges cut, it will include 3 frensels as 2 with 4 wedges, these are the right ones to use so i sujest dont go and buy others as this projector hasnt been designed around others and will give very different results, infact they may not even work, all of the parts i sell are those that will work and have been designed to work in this projector at specified sizes in the plans, the sizes in the plans are also the projectors optium working state, so when u build it from the plan u have no ajustments to make providing u built it to the plan, ive taken all of the hard work out for u lol hence the time its taken to get things right, ill have the frensels for sale in about a weeks time, i have one more test to do next week and then ill be rebuilding the lcd unit off of the plan to make sure its correct, pluss my proto lcd unit is starting to get alittle banged up lol, that will only take a couple of days so no real time stress there, once this is done the projector workings are complete, all i will have to do then is mount everything to the base, make the side wall and do the plan for that and clean up the wirring, the suport pillars will come last, they arent in yet but will come soon and that will be the last of it to go in the plans wich can actually go in the plans before i finnish my unit off and would be garenteed to fit. A small note on the materials used in this design, guys dont use wood or any other material unless specified, all that is alloy has to be alloy, it is alloy for a reason, to use anything other then whats specified is a fire hazard and also a strength risk and im not going to be responsible for your personal injury if somthing does go wrong, all that is in this projector is designed the way it is for a purpose, there are manny purposes, the main one is fire and electricity, if u follow the plans right with the guide u will have a flawless projector to make for manny years to came that is SAFE to run all day long in the winter or the summer! Ok now the parts i wont sell, i wont sell the light yet, i may get some bulbs in but no ballasts just as of yet, the front surface mirror ill tell u where to get that soon as the previous one i had purched uses abit of light, and the copy lens is the last thing i wont carry, although i have a few here it will cost u more to buy from me as i have to add a shipping charge on top as i had to pay shipping to get them here but i will stock a few for those who want them faster in europe or other surounding areas, well thats about all u need, the other things u may need is upto your imagination and a few things like electrical conectors ect that can be found at any radio shack or electrical type store, once again for those of us in europe i may stock the electrical parts as some of them are a pain to find here or if u dont know what type of somthing to get u know ill have that right part to save u going out and looking for it, as for the psu the lcd does come with one, that will power the lcd and a fan with leds, the other 2 fans id recomend to power with another 12v psu, i can supply them in europe and are cheap, a 12v 1amp plugg pack is suficient, but for those of us who want to get fancy like adding some neon wire u will need somthing with abit more grunt like a micro comp psu and they can be modded very easily to fit, anyway guys ill leave it with ya and those who want a condenser let me know via email so i can ship them out right away.
Trev
P.S guys this is where i got my mirror from, it will work but it will also cost u some light and i dont recomend it unless your on a very tight budget.
http://home.att.net/~fsmirrors/
Trev
P.S guys this is where i got my mirror from, it will work but it will also cost u some light and i dont recomend it unless your on a very tight budget.
http://home.att.net/~fsmirrors/
Sizes of your fresnels
Hi everyon !!
It´s my first post, but I´ve been reading on th forum since I begun my proyect (4 months ago).
Ace: Congratulations. Your work it´s really fantastic !!!.
I´ve made my projector with a Ovation Proxima Panel, DIY labs 80mm Triplet, 11" 1/4 x 11" 1/4 Surplus Shed Fresnel , 400W MH lamp etc in a OHP style custom made box. It works really well.
But now I´m gonna to strip the panel and put it all togheter in a case. But I need a small Fresnel because I cant just cut the one I have. (I´ve read that doing that will change the Focal Lenght in the lenses)
So my question is, What are the sizes of your Fresnel Lenses and what about their Focal Lenghts ?
I´m wondwring if you can sell me 2 Fresnels with the same Focal Lenghts that the one I have now but in 7" x 9" in size? (9" and 14" FL aprox).
If you cant provide them, where can I get it from ?
Thanks !
Hi everyon !!
It´s my first post, but I´ve been reading on th forum since I begun my proyect (4 months ago).
Ace: Congratulations. Your work it´s really fantastic !!!.
I´ve made my projector with a Ovation Proxima Panel, DIY labs 80mm Triplet, 11" 1/4 x 11" 1/4 Surplus Shed Fresnel , 400W MH lamp etc in a OHP style custom made box. It works really well.
But now I´m gonna to strip the panel and put it all togheter in a case. But I need a small Fresnel because I cant just cut the one I have. (I´ve read that doing that will change the Focal Lenght in the lenses)
So my question is, What are the sizes of your Fresnel Lenses and what about their Focal Lenghts ?
I´m wondwring if you can sell me 2 Fresnels with the same Focal Lenghts that the one I have now but in 7" x 9" in size? (9" and 14" FL aprox).
If you cant provide them, where can I get it from ?
Thanks !
keystone correction
hey ace,
i'm sure you've covered this before - but how would you go about solving the keystone correction problem in your design or would it simply be a situation of repositioning the projector??
i've heard about software solutions in this forum but no actual cases of anyone being successful.
some have suggested the angular adjustment of a fresnel placed after the lcd - something your design doesnt incorporate.
hey ace,
i'm sure you've covered this before - but how would you go about solving the keystone correction problem in your design or would it simply be a situation of repositioning the projector??
i've heard about software solutions in this forum but no actual cases of anyone being successful.
some have suggested the angular adjustment of a fresnel placed after the lcd - something your design doesnt incorporate.
Trev,
[OT: please write shorter paragraphs 🙂]
So you are using a pre-condencer fresnel (and the LCD is 6")?
I was going to try it out, but I've got just enough light anyway (and it's winter and dark outside). New condencer is in search though, but your may be wrong size for 15". Regarding the light source I've got one parabolic reflector, it would be great with 80% efficiency but needs a small LCD.
Also the use of wood in enclosure material is risky business. I assume though that there is some stuff that could be used to make the wood non-flammable. Wonder where to find it..
[OT: please write shorter paragraphs 🙂]
So you are using a pre-condencer fresnel (and the LCD is 6")?
I was going to try it out, but I've got just enough light anyway (and it's winter and dark outside). New condencer is in search though, but your may be wrong size for 15". Regarding the light source I've got one parabolic reflector, it would be great with 80% efficiency but needs a small LCD.
Also the use of wood in enclosure material is risky business. I assume though that there is some stuff that could be used to make the wood non-flammable. Wonder where to find it..
BF
Heya there buddy, welcome to the forum and thanks for the nice words on my project.
As for your issue on the frensels i can supply u with a page mag that has a focal of 310mm it will also have to be wedged inbetween 2 peices of plexi for strength and to help it from deforming from heat, they are abit differrent then normal frensels as these pag maginifiers are very thin but yeald very similar results, they are also the same focal, to change the focal on one u would need to go to another frensel manufacturer that has a frensels the same size but with a different focal, also ring count does matter as the more rings u have the less that will be seen in the projected image, also some frensels have more power then others, some are 4x, some are 2x, 3x, 5x even now i think they make a 6x.
As for cutting down a frensel its debatable at the moment about the focal changing, ive been talking to a couple of buddies of mine out of here in msn and we all have had different results, there frensels being a normal type ohp frensel and mine being the page magnifiers, while these have just been trimed mine have been cut down to half its size, there focal didnt change while mine has, it will be somthing we will be looking into in the near future to come up with a acurate answer, ill try to get a ohp frensel and cut it down to the size of this lcd and see what we get, we will soon know if the focal changes or not. Anyway buddy i hope it helped u out abit and i hope it made sence to u lol.
Trev
Heya there buddy, welcome to the forum and thanks for the nice words on my project.
As for your issue on the frensels i can supply u with a page mag that has a focal of 310mm it will also have to be wedged inbetween 2 peices of plexi for strength and to help it from deforming from heat, they are abit differrent then normal frensels as these pag maginifiers are very thin but yeald very similar results, they are also the same focal, to change the focal on one u would need to go to another frensel manufacturer that has a frensels the same size but with a different focal, also ring count does matter as the more rings u have the less that will be seen in the projected image, also some frensels have more power then others, some are 4x, some are 2x, 3x, 5x even now i think they make a 6x.
As for cutting down a frensel its debatable at the moment about the focal changing, ive been talking to a couple of buddies of mine out of here in msn and we all have had different results, there frensels being a normal type ohp frensel and mine being the page magnifiers, while these have just been trimed mine have been cut down to half its size, there focal didnt change while mine has, it will be somthing we will be looking into in the near future to come up with a acurate answer, ill try to get a ohp frensel and cut it down to the size of this lcd and see what we get, we will soon know if the focal changes or not. Anyway buddy i hope it helped u out abit and i hope it made sence to u lol.
Trev
Kh
Heya there KH, the frensels arent hard to find but different manufactures have different focals and ring counts and also magnifacation, i actually get mine from over here in europe.
After cutting the frensel down it should still stay its same power but it does alter the focal on mine, with the focal being alterd the power should be the same but at that longer focal point, when u put 2 together the focal halfs as u have 2x the power of what it used to be, 2x4 = 8x power and half of the focal, a good test to try out to see how this works is to get 2 magnifying glasses and put them together, u will soon see how its 2x the power and how the focal has halfed.
Trev
Heya there KH, the frensels arent hard to find but different manufactures have different focals and ring counts and also magnifacation, i actually get mine from over here in europe.
After cutting the frensel down it should still stay its same power but it does alter the focal on mine, with the focal being alterd the power should be the same but at that longer focal point, when u put 2 together the focal halfs as u have 2x the power of what it used to be, 2x4 = 8x power and half of the focal, a good test to try out to see how this works is to get 2 magnifying glasses and put them together, u will soon see how its 2x the power and how the focal has halfed.
Trev
Heya Johnny, the keystone ill be using is a software keystone thats in the nividia drivers, it does work but will chew a small amount of resolution on the sides, not a big deal on a wide screen. The desighn is used best where the projector is behind u and on a hifi cabnet, the projector isnt that light, it will weigh in at about 8 - 10kg when finnised not somthing id be very inclined to hang from the ceiling although it can be done easily enough, the more of an angle u have the projector the more keystone u will need, the bigger the image the more u will see it, another point with it being wide screen is that the sides arent as high as a 4:3 ratio format and with that being siad any keystoneing in the in the image is less noticable, but for those who like it perfect the nividia keystone is the way to go and will take very little to correct.
As for the frensel after the lcd keystoneing idea thats the way to go as in having a static keystone and can keystone all inputs not just the vga.
I should be making a new model after the plans is done to incorporate a keystone if there is enough room in the focal length of this copy lens, with a few minor changes there should be, also this new model ill try to incorporte and 250w hqi bulb and try to make the projector half its size with a different layout and with the use of cold mirror. The new model should be over the 1000 ansi lm mark.
Trev
Mhelin
Heya Mhelin, hows it going buddy? yeah i didnt realise how long that pargraph was until i posted it lol
Ok in the setup of the light engine, i have a condenser, a pre condensing frensel for the main frensel behind the lcd, and the main frensel, the lcd is a 7inch wide screen lilliput. The condensers im selling will work in ohps too with a 15inch lcd, they are specially coated also to absorb more light and to filter out glare, ive had many condensers in over the past but ive never got one as good as this type, the light that comes out of this one is very bright, colour corected and very even, also it yealds a very wide angle of the light. The new reflectors ill be getting in will be spherical and they have a focal of about 30mm, ill be getting in a couple next week to test and will be for sale the monday after, ive orderd 20 from china so the numbers are limitited lol but i will be getting more in at a latter date if there is a call for them, they will work on the 15inch lcd also or the smaller lcd models.
As for the wood, it will be safe but as a box, the parts that are made out of alloy wont take the heat if they wer made out of wood, well it would but it would burn especially the honeycombe in the light engine, if the honey combe was made out of wood it wouldnt work and it would burn, in the lcd unit its not hot enough to burn at all, mines made out of plexi and it just gets warn to the touch and thats with it pained black, the lcd runs cooler then what it does with its backlight, inside of the box it would stay cool so there isnt any danger there, the best thing to do would be to make the psu box out of ally too as if anything does go wrong and if u are not using a fuse that u verywell should be u have the risk of a fire if there is a unfortunate short, the fire retarend u could try to get from auto shops, try to ask for a spray to coat fire walls with behind the engine but i realy dont think its neserary, in this design anyway.
Just for the others who read this, when i do tests on the projector its for no less then 2hrs at a time, last night i tested vga mode and i can tell ya it was mighty fine and sharp, i had it on vga mode for over 10hrs and with a lengthy test like this u get to see how hot things get and their operating nominal temperature, it can take upto 1hr to find a nominal temperature especally when finding the temperatures of a ballast, i normally run tests for 2+hrs as the all is at its nominated temperature and u can clearly see whats a problem or not with heat, and u change the design acordinly, ofcourse when designing anything u keep an eye on it while its running in its testing stage that way u know u can use the item for aslong as u like when u like without having to worry about damage or any danger.
Trev
Heya Mhelin, hows it going buddy? yeah i didnt realise how long that pargraph was until i posted it lol
Ok in the setup of the light engine, i have a condenser, a pre condensing frensel for the main frensel behind the lcd, and the main frensel, the lcd is a 7inch wide screen lilliput. The condensers im selling will work in ohps too with a 15inch lcd, they are specially coated also to absorb more light and to filter out glare, ive had many condensers in over the past but ive never got one as good as this type, the light that comes out of this one is very bright, colour corected and very even, also it yealds a very wide angle of the light. The new reflectors ill be getting in will be spherical and they have a focal of about 30mm, ill be getting in a couple next week to test and will be for sale the monday after, ive orderd 20 from china so the numbers are limitited lol but i will be getting more in at a latter date if there is a call for them, they will work on the 15inch lcd also or the smaller lcd models.
As for the wood, it will be safe but as a box, the parts that are made out of alloy wont take the heat if they wer made out of wood, well it would but it would burn especially the honeycombe in the light engine, if the honey combe was made out of wood it wouldnt work and it would burn, in the lcd unit its not hot enough to burn at all, mines made out of plexi and it just gets warn to the touch and thats with it pained black, the lcd runs cooler then what it does with its backlight, inside of the box it would stay cool so there isnt any danger there, the best thing to do would be to make the psu box out of ally too as if anything does go wrong and if u are not using a fuse that u verywell should be u have the risk of a fire if there is a unfortunate short, the fire retarend u could try to get from auto shops, try to ask for a spray to coat fire walls with behind the engine but i realy dont think its neserary, in this design anyway.
Just for the others who read this, when i do tests on the projector its for no less then 2hrs at a time, last night i tested vga mode and i can tell ya it was mighty fine and sharp, i had it on vga mode for over 10hrs and with a lengthy test like this u get to see how hot things get and their operating nominal temperature, it can take upto 1hr to find a nominal temperature especally when finding the temperatures of a ballast, i normally run tests for 2+hrs as the all is at its nominated temperature and u can clearly see whats a problem or not with heat, and u change the design acordinly, ofcourse when designing anything u keep an eye on it while its running in its testing stage that way u know u can use the item for aslong as u like when u like without having to worry about damage or any danger.
Trev
Hi Ace,
Nice job on the projector, very slick. I managed to spend 1.5 hours reading through these threads after I came across them at work last week. Some information that may help, in the photo labs I service we use a bright halogen light source to project a negative onto paper to produce a photo. Directly after the light source a "mirror tube" is used to make sure as much light as possible reaches the paper. We have found that if the surfaces of these mirrors dull even slightly the amount of light is DRASTICALLY reduced (30%). Would it be useful to fit a similar mirror system between the light and the lcd to capture as much light as possible, maybe even enable you to reduce the size of light you need. It's just 4 highly reflective mirrors in an open ended box config.
Nice job on the projector, very slick. I managed to spend 1.5 hours reading through these threads after I came across them at work last week. Some information that may help, in the photo labs I service we use a bright halogen light source to project a negative onto paper to produce a photo. Directly after the light source a "mirror tube" is used to make sure as much light as possible reaches the paper. We have found that if the surfaces of these mirrors dull even slightly the amount of light is DRASTICALLY reduced (30%). Would it be useful to fit a similar mirror system between the light and the lcd to capture as much light as possible, maybe even enable you to reduce the size of light you need. It's just 4 highly reflective mirrors in an open ended box config.
heya chewie (short for bubblegum? lol) thanks for the nice post, i havnt even had the time of day to see how a photo machine works but i know how a photo copier works lol very different indeed, thanks for the great info and yeah even a dirty mirror can use one hell of alot of light or even dirty optics, in my design im still looking at a way to implement a pyramid even though it wont do a gret deal, im still doing tests now but im trying to knock off the 3 frensel idea so its a cheaper light engine for the guys who want to make this design, basically the first frensel will go and will be replaced with a 2nd condenser, with this utilised the light is magnified and intesifed and gives 2x picture brightness under the test, ive tested the split frensel idea, 3 frensel idea, a single frensel idea and even tried the non frensel idea but this design still is the brightest, right now im just waiting for the new reflectors to get here and a ohp frensel, im going to try out a ohp frensel to see if its any brghter then a page mag, by the end of next week it will be a finalised design in the light engine and will be fabricated, it will be at its optimum peak limit and will have uniform brightness over the entire area of the lcd, in my last projector when running up tests before i finalised the light engine i found that using 2 condensers was the way to go for a super bright image, im finding the same in this model and at this stage it will be utilised, its just a matter of finding a right secondary condenser that will fit into the space designed for the pyramid.
Trev
Trev,
great work on coming up with a new light engine design. After reading all of the posts I am still slightly unclear on the exact configuration. Do you have a way to post a diagram. Thanks,
Hezz
great work on coming up with a new light engine design. After reading all of the posts I am still slightly unclear on the exact configuration. Do you have a way to post a diagram. Thanks,
Hezz
Heya hezz hows it? ok here is a rough pic, the tech is new so im not going to get into it, this is idea 1 i have a new idea thats even brighter and gives a superb image but i havnt made any drawing of it, as it is your lucky to see this one as there was going to be one similar to this in the plans lol, but i wont hold the tech back from the forum aslong as nobody is going to go out and copy my light engine design on this particular lcd. Also this pic is slightly out of whack near the lens barrel as i drew it in a hurry.
Trev
Trev
Attachments
Wood and Heat
Thanks Ace . I´ll look forward the news about your results in cutting down an OHP Fresnel.
I´m using a 400W MH 6000K and 95CRI 25000 lumens. This lamp is really good but the heat is enought to burn the wood in the box at 10cm. (This beast is really really hot)
Since I´ve putted the light in an ATX PC cabinet with the condenser, mirror, Fresnel sandwiched in 6mm glass, and Power supplies (Bulb Balast and starter, Panel PS, and Coolers PS) the amount of heat is something to consider and to work on.
So, I´ve completely solved the problem covering all the inside of the box and main parts with asbestos (amianto in spanish) (you can buy it cheaper at every hardware store).
It really aisle the heat, so the structure of the box remains totally cold and the only thing heating is just the air that is being removed by a small fan. (The ATX Power Supply was stripped so it´s fan work for the panel PS and the Balast also, and a second 3" fan pulls the air from the light box.
Now this beta has proved to me that we can put all the things together (even this huge and hot bulb) and totally control heat on a compact case, so I´ll will be stripping the panel (that in this beta was outside the box) and reduce all the components to fit completelly in an MidTower Computer Case (LCD + Proyection lens also inside the box).
So I´ll get a Pro look (new computer cases have a very good look)in a compact, standalone package.
In my calculations, If you have a smaller bulb (mine is 27cm long) and using a normal mirror for the light path and a FS mirror for the image path you can put all the things in a MidTower case (Light -> Normal Mirror -> Glass/Fresnel/Glass/LCD -> FS Mirror -> Projection Lens on the 5" 1/4 bays side on the case).
In my case since my bulb is big I cant use the FS mirror aproach so my projection lens will extend 8 cms from the 5 1/4 drives bay.
But all this depends on the fresnel. I need to reduce the size of mi OHP fresnel to be a little bigger that the LCD stripped from the panel. But I want to avoid get the fresnel broken in the cutting process or end with a cuted fresnel that doesnt work due to the change in focal lenght atributes.
So, if you guys have any experience cutting down an OHP Fresnel , it will be great to hear from you !!
My best wishes.
Cheers,
Bernardo.
Thanks Ace . I´ll look forward the news about your results in cutting down an OHP Fresnel.
I´m using a 400W MH 6000K and 95CRI 25000 lumens. This lamp is really good but the heat is enought to burn the wood in the box at 10cm. (This beast is really really hot)
Since I´ve putted the light in an ATX PC cabinet with the condenser, mirror, Fresnel sandwiched in 6mm glass, and Power supplies (Bulb Balast and starter, Panel PS, and Coolers PS) the amount of heat is something to consider and to work on.
So, I´ve completely solved the problem covering all the inside of the box and main parts with asbestos (amianto in spanish) (you can buy it cheaper at every hardware store).
It really aisle the heat, so the structure of the box remains totally cold and the only thing heating is just the air that is being removed by a small fan. (The ATX Power Supply was stripped so it´s fan work for the panel PS and the Balast also, and a second 3" fan pulls the air from the light box.
Now this beta has proved to me that we can put all the things together (even this huge and hot bulb) and totally control heat on a compact case, so I´ll will be stripping the panel (that in this beta was outside the box) and reduce all the components to fit completelly in an MidTower Computer Case (LCD + Proyection lens also inside the box).
So I´ll get a Pro look (new computer cases have a very good look)in a compact, standalone package.
In my calculations, If you have a smaller bulb (mine is 27cm long) and using a normal mirror for the light path and a FS mirror for the image path you can put all the things in a MidTower case (Light -> Normal Mirror -> Glass/Fresnel/Glass/LCD -> FS Mirror -> Projection Lens on the 5" 1/4 bays side on the case).
In my case since my bulb is big I cant use the FS mirror aproach so my projection lens will extend 8 cms from the 5 1/4 drives bay.
But all this depends on the fresnel. I need to reduce the size of mi OHP fresnel to be a little bigger that the LCD stripped from the panel. But I want to avoid get the fresnel broken in the cutting process or end with a cuted fresnel that doesnt work due to the change in focal lenght atributes.
So, if you guys have any experience cutting down an OHP Fresnel , it will be great to hear from you !!
My best wishes.
Cheers,
Bernardo.
LCD Specs
Hey ACE,
Just judging by how specific you are on the parts. I assume if we are to follow the plans will need a specific size LCD ie 7". I searched under lilliput 7" and found several varying in price and pixels. Could you give us a starting point on what we should be looking for ie. resolution, pixel count, max min dimensions? Some on these are as much or more expensive than a 15" monitor. Is there a benefit other than reduced project size to using the small LCD?
Thanks in advance.
Hey ACE,
Just judging by how specific you are on the parts. I assume if we are to follow the plans will need a specific size LCD ie 7". I searched under lilliput 7" and found several varying in price and pixels. Could you give us a starting point on what we should be looking for ie. resolution, pixel count, max min dimensions? Some on these are as much or more expensive than a 15" monitor. Is there a benefit other than reduced project size to using the small LCD?
Thanks in advance.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.