It's simulated in 1/2 space with 2.24V of signal (~1.3W) and a single driver.
The same size as two sealed or ported etc in one enclosure that gives the desired tuning, plus the volume of the manifold.
Hi Y'all,
As I said in Post #97 it's "just a quick simulation", I didn't know what hawkson ment w/ "...Should I only make a 1 sealed?". figured it was pretty obvious, that these are only single driver models. I used 1W into 5 Ohm to let Hornresp calculate the Eg; with a Re of 3.78 Ohm, and a Le of 2.8 (which is probably higher in the below 100Hz range) I am guessing that that is closer than 1W into Re (3.78 Ohm).
hawkson: If you need more output, you should take another look at Josh Ricci's TH. Naturally, it is a lot bigger. The 1W output also does not tell the whole story (see GM's Post #98) of what this driver can do. You may have to do a little modelling yourself.
Regards,
As I said in Post #97 it's "just a quick simulation", I didn't know what hawkson ment w/ "...Should I only make a 1 sealed?". figured it was pretty obvious, that these are only single driver models. I used 1W into 5 Ohm to let Hornresp calculate the Eg; with a Re of 3.78 Ohm, and a Le of 2.8 (which is probably higher in the below 100Hz range) I am guessing that that is closer than 1W into Re (3.78 Ohm).
hawkson: If you need more output, you should take another look at Josh Ricci's TH. Naturally, it is a lot bigger. The 1W output also does not tell the whole story (see GM's Post #98) of what this driver can do. You may have to do a little modelling yourself.
Regards,
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Ok, so I'm think of using Eminance Kappa 15 drivers in a PPSL. Two cabinets with a Unity horn over each to cover 300hz on up. Are there plans out there for a 15" PPSL? I don't have access to wood-working tools, so I would need to contract someone to build them - so plans are needed.
Thanks fellas.
-Jim
Thanks fellas.
-Jim
Hey guys. The difference in the parameters for the older "red" 5400 versus the current ones is negligible. If you want the older driver parameters I have a winisd file hosted at the home theater shack. I have measured and owned both. Measured data models very closely to factory data. After owning many TC drivers I simply use the factory data now. The differences are very small and arent enough to worry about.
Hawkson you would be looking at a 15" wide opening by 20" high x 20" deep at a minimum. You have a 12" deep, 18" driver with a 10.5" diameter motor that weighs 80lbs. You will need 3" clearance from the back of the other motor at minimum to be safe plus an inch or two of clearance to get the driver in the plenum with the other mounted. You would probably want a little more room than this even, as wrestling with and positioning 80lb drivers for mounting in confined spaces is not fun. Nor will be tightening the driver mounting screws in the back of the plenum. Plan accordingly. Also if you are using these in a domestic setting and only have the 2 drivers it would probably be best to make 2 separate subs so that you can even out the response. This would make more difference than lowering the distortion some but only driving the room with a single sub
Larry,
You already have the B&C's correct? I am not so sure about using them IB. They really aren't that well suited to it. There is no reason for the wicked strong motor and all of that power handling in an IB driver. If you don't already have them I would suggest something else for that type of setup.
Hawkson you would be looking at a 15" wide opening by 20" high x 20" deep at a minimum. You have a 12" deep, 18" driver with a 10.5" diameter motor that weighs 80lbs. You will need 3" clearance from the back of the other motor at minimum to be safe plus an inch or two of clearance to get the driver in the plenum with the other mounted. You would probably want a little more room than this even, as wrestling with and positioning 80lb drivers for mounting in confined spaces is not fun. Nor will be tightening the driver mounting screws in the back of the plenum. Plan accordingly. Also if you are using these in a domestic setting and only have the 2 drivers it would probably be best to make 2 separate subs so that you can even out the response. This would make more difference than lowering the distortion some but only driving the room with a single sub
Larry,
You already have the B&C's correct? I am not so sure about using them IB. They really aren't that well suited to it. There is no reason for the wicked strong motor and all of that power handling in an IB driver. If you don't already have them I would suggest something else for that type of setup.
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Hi badman,
Putting the passive radiators into the same plenum (manifold) will increase the volume of the plenum a lot, and this may reduce the effective coupling of the drivers, which is what you're really after with the PPSL.
I would keep the passives out of the front plenum, and go with djk's recommendation of keeping the plenum small. This should help in reducing the upper frequency response peak (see: Post #5 and #6).
Regards,
Putting the passive radiators into the same plenum (manifold) will increase the volume of the plenum a lot, and this may reduce the effective coupling of the drivers, which is what you're really after with the PPSL.
I would keep the passives out of the front plenum, and go with djk's recommendation of keeping the plenum small. This should help in reducing the upper frequency response peak (see: Post #5 and #6).
Regards,
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External dimensions for 3/4" ply, 32x24x24. Port is W2-1/2"xD16-3/4" in two sections (3/4" divider/brace down the side of the box, across the back, and up the other side). Plenum is 7-1/2" wide by 17-1/4" deep (internal)
A)24 x 32
B)22.5 x 30.5
C)22.5 x 24
D)22.5 x 18
E)22.5 x 9.125
F)22.5 x 7.5
G)22.5 x 16.75
Four box cut list, five 4' x 8' sheets of 3/4"
Requires Q=2 filter at 35hz.
I'll see if I can post some pics of the build this weekend.
Note:
Cut all the boards that are 22-1/2" without moving the rip-fence, that way the box is assured to be square. There is enough room in the cut plan to allow oversizing the cuts (with a hand held saw, and re-saw on a table saw), or to allow for a rabbet (or half-rabbet) if desired. I just butt-joint everything and add a glue block around the plenum to mmake it stronger. I never use handles, and always use a two-wheeled cart to move them, you can slip your fingers in the port to help with carting them around.
A)24 x 32
B)22.5 x 30.5
C)22.5 x 24
D)22.5 x 18
E)22.5 x 9.125
F)22.5 x 7.5
G)22.5 x 16.75
Four box cut list, five 4' x 8' sheets of 3/4"
Requires Q=2 filter at 35hz.
I'll see if I can post some pics of the build this weekend.
Note:
Cut all the boards that are 22-1/2" without moving the rip-fence, that way the box is assured to be square. There is enough room in the cut plan to allow oversizing the cuts (with a hand held saw, and re-saw on a table saw), or to allow for a rabbet (or half-rabbet) if desired. I just butt-joint everything and add a glue block around the plenum to mmake it stronger. I never use handles, and always use a two-wheeled cart to move them, you can slip your fingers in the port to help with carting them around.
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