It does look like a beast that Orbit!
I went and bought BFM's Tuba HT plans. Not the easiest of plans to follow. Nor the easiest box to build. I have to admit, I get a little depressed at the thought of the time it takes to build something so relatively small. I get paid to put kitchens together and the largest usually don't take more than 3 days. It looks like a full days work, a 3x3 box!
I went and bought BFM's Tuba HT plans. Not the easiest of plans to follow. Nor the easiest box to build. I have to admit, I get a little depressed at the thought of the time it takes to build something so relatively small. I get paid to put kitchens together and the largest usually don't take more than 3 days. It looks like a full days work, a 3x3 box!
Dave, I think you will like the Tuba HT, keep us posted on how it's going and the end result. The BFM forum is helpful if you run into stumbling blocks.
Here's a few pictures of my BFM build: 2 pairs of davids - BillFitzmaurice.info
Here's a few pictures of my BFM build: 2 pairs of davids - BillFitzmaurice.info
Dave, are you going to build the full blown THT? The full 3ft3 THT does not fit through standard doorways.
BP, I was thinking 30" for wodth.
Question for you, and anyone else who wants to chime in. PE lists my woofer as having an f3 of 21 in an almost 27 cubic foot box as a high fidelity suggestion from bass box pro ported. What size port would that be and would it sound good?
I have the real estate to build 2 of these behemoths and a sheet of 3/4 maple ply for the exposed front since I'd go 8 foot tall.
Question for you, and anyone else who wants to chime in. PE lists my woofer as having an f3 of 21 in an almost 27 cubic foot box as a high fidelity suggestion from bass box pro ported. What size port would that be and would it sound good?
I have the real estate to build 2 of these behemoths and a sheet of 3/4 maple ply for the exposed front since I'd go 8 foot tall.
I'd say between 1/3 to 1/2 the size of Sd to limit port noise.
I vote for 30" wide THT's. FLH = BP4.
I vote for 30" wide THT's. FLH = BP4.
If you got 8' to work with, then build the full size low profile THT that is = to the 3ft3 THT.
I do want to get in on the horn sound, I wish they were easier and quicker to build. I work enough with wood and my tools are more suited for field work. I sent an email to the guy in Scottsdale listed as a woodworker on BFM's site to get a quote for build cost. Haven't heard anything. I saw a flatpack somewhere it was like $375 so I'm guessing a built Tuba is easily over $1000.
Anyway, reason I'm excited now, the ADHD adult child I am, about building a couple tall towers with my PRV's is that they sound really good. They just don't play low loud. Porting them sounds like a way to help this and I get 2 benefits. With a box that big i can plug the ports when i want and enjoy them sealed, which I've done. For most music, most of the time, they are sufficient. I can finally get started on finishing this space in my house and leave enough of a cave on the corner side to slide whatever wheeled cube of a Tuba or something on wheels into it behind a barn door for movies and the occasional window rattling session.
Sorry to burst the horn bubble. If I could hear one or get one built for a decent price that would help. Trust me I do want an excuse to get a hold of the RSS390 driver. It's quality and looks it too.
Anyway, reason I'm excited now, the ADHD adult child I am, about building a couple tall towers with my PRV's is that they sound really good. They just don't play low loud. Porting them sounds like a way to help this and I get 2 benefits. With a box that big i can plug the ports when i want and enjoy them sealed, which I've done. For most music, most of the time, they are sufficient. I can finally get started on finishing this space in my house and leave enough of a cave on the corner side to slide whatever wheeled cube of a Tuba or something on wheels into it behind a barn door for movies and the occasional window rattling session.
Sorry to burst the horn bubble. If I could hear one or get one built for a decent price that would help. Trust me I do want an excuse to get a hold of the RSS390 driver. It's quality and looks it too.
Personally, I would build the THT do the long version if you got 8' and if you don't have the time get the flat pack. You could also look into the devastator. There is a flat pack for that too from GSG.
Holy schnikes!
Copied from GSG
"By way of comparison, a UM18 driver has an efficiency in the upper bass of about 0.5% (one half of one percent), while the Devastator has an efficiency in the upper bass of 25%, which is 50 times.
This sounds like a heck of a lot of fun, especially for movies, but do you benefit when you are just listening to music at reasonable spl levels?
Copied from GSG
"By way of comparison, a UM18 driver has an efficiency in the upper bass of about 0.5% (one half of one percent), while the Devastator has an efficiency in the upper bass of 25%, which is 50 times.
This sounds like a heck of a lot of fun, especially for movies, but do you benefit when you are just listening to music at reasonable spl levels?
The question IMO is what does upper frequency bass efficiency have to do with SUBwoofer capability? How do the two compare at say 40 Hz?
So I just (hijacking this thread even further) paced my great room where I need a bass solution. It's 25x31 ten foot ceilings and 2 hallways running into it.
How much spl do I need? Not just for music but I would like cinema quality HT.
What do you think I'm getting with the PRV's?
I like that the GSG website has a table comparing their subs. The flat packs are reasonable too. Most of their subs aren't horns but they do have a lot of output!
How much spl do I need? Not just for music but I would like cinema quality HT.
What do you think I'm getting with the PRV's?
I like that the GSG website has a table comparing their subs. The flat packs are reasonable too. Most of their subs aren't horns but they do have a lot of output!
The simplest horn you can build is a single fold tapped horn. At minimum, a TH and BR are only 7 panels not including bracing. You could build a 16ft TH with 8ft to work with.
Attachments
A paraflex or roar is unique in that they both can be designed so they are themselves, or they are a very good BLH (on a sealed box if paraflex) or they are a very short and wide version of the same(on either). Kind of a unique opportunity only played with by another guy that i know of?
Here's a forum post where the designer of the Devastator compares the hornresp model of the Devastator to the THT: GSG Devastator - Page 2 - Subwoofers - The Klipsch Audio Community
Funny I had already googled my way over to that thread last night.
It looks like it really gets going in the upper bass. Isn't that going to need a lot of EQ or does room gain help balance it out?
It looks like it really gets going in the upper bass. Isn't that going to need a lot of EQ or does room gain help balance it out?
The first review of Dayton's new PSS555 on PE is pretty glowing. In 18 cubes 6" port flat to ten. (One option for the Devastator)
He loves it. There may not be one sub to rule them all but it appears there could be one driver. Would you be happy with the 40Hz Brian of this? 🙂
He loves it. There may not be one sub to rule them all but it appears there could be one driver. Would you be happy with the 40Hz Brian of this? 🙂