A Study of DMLs as a Full Range Speaker

frubdoo.
sorry for the delay i have been having problems with my phone and the computer as usual did an update and crashed.
this panel is 11inches x 9inches ,i used a brick wall OX at 100hz to block any low frequencies .
i would use the points i have placed the weights to mount the spine ,probably just the two large weights(areas) will do.
this would be the cheapest and easiest to build for testing and probably more robust than the canvas panel suggested by jaxboy.
but you could always glue it to a panel if more LF is needed t a later date ?
the dog started barking ,but i decided to leave it in as it gives more of an idea as to the volume.
this is the left channel only so may sound a little odd?
it would be interesting to know how you get on, and if it is successful ,which ever type of panel you choose to do.
steve.
Steve is this one of the crate ply panels?
 
Duede,

Concerning thickness:
  1. Interestingly, efficiency is virtually independent of thickness. Efficiency is determined by the ratio of stiffness to areal mass^3. Since stiffness is proportional to thickness^3 and areal mass^3 is proportional to thickness^3 the two cancel each other, and efficiency is independent of thickness. Note, also that for good efficiency, stiffness is good, and low density is really good. Hence, high modulus, low density materials are ideal. Wood is pretty decent in this respect, and sandwich composites with stiff skins and light cores can be better. Polystyrene foam (EPS or XPS) is particularly good in this respect, although there are differences of opinion concerning sound quality with PS foam panels. Some love it some hate it.
  2. The lowest frequency you can expect to get from a panel will be determined by it's fundamental flexural frequency. For a given aspect ratio, boundary conditions and elastic modulus (or moduli in the case of anisotropic materials), the fundamental frequency (and all the natural frequencies for that matter) scale in proportion to thickness divided by area. Hence, a thinner panel will let you achieve the same fundamental frequency with a smaller panel. But also realize that just because your panel has a particular fundamental frequency doesn't mean you'll necessarily get output down to that frequency. The boundary conditions have to be right, and the exciters need to be capable at that frequency too. Boundaries approaching simple supports are better for getting output at the fundamental than free boundaries.
  3. Thickness also influences the panel's "coincidence" frequency. The coincidence frequency is the frequency at which the speed of the panel's flexural bending wave equals the speed of sound in air. At this frequency, and above, the panel will start "beaming" in the plane of the panel. Coincidence frequency is inversely proportional to thickness, so using a thinner panel may be better in this respect, as you may be able to push this coincidence effect up to or beyond the audible region. But in practice this seems to be an effect which does not seem to be as objectionable as you might think, and perhaps not worth worrying too much about.
Hope this helps,
Eric
Eric in section #3 you mention the coincidence frequency being higher in thin panels. /what happens in a case when the panel is for example one inch EPS but the panel is gradually tapered to the edges to lets say 1/4 inch thick?
 
suppose you could add a heat sink(s) to the back of the hot motors they don't have to weigh very much, or see if you can find locations which work as well but don't get as hot.
I guess it is the same as with a regular speaker elements. Some even make liquid cooled elements, but when compared to perceived volume, temperature will rise very suddenly. 3dB more volume, and they have to handle double the power, so probably adding heat sinks will make a very marginal effect in how loud you can play before overheating. You probably have to make them nitrogen cooled to make a significant difference, and that is if they don't start distorting or reaching xmax before they melt in that case :)

In pro audio when trying to get as much output as possible from each element, a more common solution to the problem nowadays is having a temperature sensor that will limit the voltage to avoid overheating. That way you can make sure to squeeze every last dB out of each element without melting them. It is cheaper then advanced cooling, and in practice it more efficient to first make sure you can confidently use every last dB, rather than increasing the dB that can be produced.

I think in this case the question is really about why some exciters get hotter then other with a multi-exciter setup. I destroyed a couple of plates driving them too hard and then the styrofoam had melted more behind some exciters, but not sure if there was a pattern as to which. But I did constantly check temps and did not notice that some exciters started heating up before others. After playing with the same output level all night all exciters was cool, and then suddenly after changing DJ in early morning, although mixer output was looking fine and apparent volume seemed the same, I noticed the exciters getting warm, and really hot on a couple of plates with too much epoxy.

So if there is a effect where some exciters get hotter in a multi exciter setup, it is either avoidable with a centre cluster or the effect is very marginal and will not affect the power handing of the plates in a significant way.
 
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toddincabo.
i am waiting to hear the results of my 10watt exciters before deciding how many fhe25-4 i need.
in the meantime i did a recording of my canvas panels with cling film on the front surface.
they have plenty of detail and sound very nice.
the exciters are not braced at the back yet, so hopefully i will be able to turn them up a bit more, but i think they are good enough to let my friend have a listen to them and see what he thinks.
if he likes them i can build him something more to his needs, he has not a clue what to expect as yet.
steve.
Steve would you please share the info on this speaker? Canvas size, exciter model and if the exciter has a mounting plat if so what material and dimensions and how you mounted the cling film please. These for me are going to be the first of your small panel designs that I want to build to have as a reference. These sound simply stunning to me. Thank you for posting.
 
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I am not sure you will enjoy doing that on a mill , the plys will grab and rip out , it will bulge up with heat and grab the cutters even if you have ceramic inserts , maybe try an orbital sander with #240 and take off half of a ply thickness in a radius around the outside perimeter ?
The panadol consumption might cost more than the job.
find a shop with a thickness sander and have them and it to the desired thickness.
 
Of course! What I meant by posting it was “look even with this heavy wood, the ortho planar spring is effective, apart from that dip at 4khz (which is a resonance I can deal with shortly) the spl of the high and low frequencies is quite level”

Without it, I see a dip of about 10-15 decibels for higher frequencies.


So what I have found is that for light materials like 1.5mm basswood sheets, the spring shape that works for harder materials like the walnut won’t work. And visa versa. It needs to be cut so that it has enough stiffness to transfer the frequencies below somewhere in the range of 2khz - 5khz, but keep the frequencies above on the springs center area.

I happened to make the spring too mobile, I tested adding a layer of rubber over the spring wanting to reduce its movement.
This is how I ended up with the neoprene gasket over the springs arms.
The resonances are very high in the arms, but adding the rubber over them took a majority of that away.

Suddenly the monolithic wooden panel has a high frequency area of movement, and a dampening layer to reduce those high frequency resonances, and then the monolithic area around the spring for the low frequencies.

It’s been a very repeatable experiment
have you considered coatings on the spring area such as PVA without and or with additives such as graphite powder or diatomaceous earth or coating with shellac?
 
Hello Eucy,
I used what I had... coins of 0.5, 1 and 2€ which are 7.5g to 8.5g... nothing highly scientific.

Next planned step is to test solutions do give an escape way to the air trapped between the membrane and the magnet. Air that flows through the voice coil and then the back. I would like to see the impact on this 2.5k hump and on the HF extension. For now, I don't see the dome as a solution to the 2.5k hump. For the HF extension, I don't see other solution with PP than a tweeter. To follow

Good to know. The connection of the external face of the corrugated PP to internal face which is driven by the exciter seems "weak". So why not. Next time in a DIY store, I will have a look to PU foam.
Christian
have you considered routing an X grid of shallow cuts into the area of the exciter mount surface which extend just past the vc mount so air can vent there at the back side of the panel. even it it makes a little noise you are not going to hear that from the front side. just a thought.
 
Steve would you please share the info on this speaker? Canvas size, exciter model and if the exciter has a mounting plat if so what material and dimensions and how you mounted the cling film please. These for me are going to be the first of your small panel designs that I want to build to have as a reference. These sound simply stunning to me. Thank you for posting.
Thank you for your kind words.
I'm glad you liked the "stunning" sound this panel produces .
I have videos of this panel (I think) on YouTube, but not construction.
That is on this forum somewhere 🤔
This is a very easy build panel, as all the hard work is done for you.
I purchased the canvas panel from my local diy arts store.
I purchased 4 panels on special offer, for a ridiculously low price.
Did you read the patent of this type of panel?
The polythene helps take this panel to the next level of detailed sound.
Steve.
 
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Hi moray.
Is this the correct (preferred)name for you ?
You have to remember that I have not been experimenting with dml panels for about a year now.
At the time I had about 4 different projects on the go.
Mainly to improve rigid heavy panels, for other people.
I found it fun solving these problems.
I had put my very light eps on hold for this reason
You have been bringing up old footage and recordings on this thread which I had but forgotten about.
Christian has been tempting me to start experimenting again (my wife will be very happy, NOT !)
I am very happy to continue to talk on PM or other methods for advice but it takes a lot to get me moving in my room again.
I can't remember, but did you post the patent with grooves cut into the panels and panel strengthening in this area ?
Steve.
 
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Thank you for your kind words.
I'm glad you liked the "stunning" sound this panel produces .
I have videos of this panel (I think) on YouTube, but not construction.
That is on this forum somewhere 🤔
This is a very easy build panel, as all the hard work is done for you.
I purchased the canvas panel from my local diy arts store.
I purchased 4 panels on special offer, for a ridiculously low price.
Did you read the patent of this type of panel?
The polythene helps take this panel to the next level of detailed sound.
Steve.
if you have a link or the patent number you mentioned I would appreciate reading it. thanks.
 
Hi moray.
Is this the correct (preferred)name for you ?
You have to remember that I have not been experimenting with dml panels for about a year now.
At the time I had about 4 different projects on the go.
Mainly to improve rigid heavy panels, for other people.
I found it fun solving these problems.
I had put my very light eps on hold for this reason
You have been bringing up old footage and recordings on this thread which I had but forgotten about.
Christian has been tempting me to start experimenting again (my wife will be very happy, NOT !)
I am very happy to continue to talk on PM or other methods for advice but it takes a lot to get me moving in my room again.
I can't remember, but did you post the patent with grooves cut into the panels and panel strengthening in this area ?
Steve.
 
Thanks Steve yes moray is my first name and james is my second name campbell the last.
after Highwood Audio I started moray james cables and designed and built cables until I had my stroke. We might be best discussing via email or PM regarding modifications so as not to clog up the thread. The other thing about email is I think it is a more secure place to store information. which ever you like.
no it was not me who posted the patent about the grooves.
 
Possibly, but I admit have trouble accepting that listening to a recording of a panel on a set of headphones will reproduce what that panel actually sounds like, so I rarely listen to posted clips..Shrug🤷🤷‍♀️🤷‍♂️

I've lost all of my FR curves through a computer reset, so I'll have to do them again

And my panels may not have the same dome result as others, so I was after a wider testing audience

Anyway, back to your panels, are we ever going to see any??

Eucy
you are right a video clip is not in person listening but for me at least it tells me if I need to be interested or not I would love to hear your work. thanks for posting.
 
Good questions.
Among the possibilities I have in mind, there is the kind of aluminum below. It said reinforced. We could expect the resin fills the small change of height. Easy to find here in almost all the supermarkets.
View attachment 1178007
no reason that you could not emboss your own foil pattern. thanks for posting.
 
Eric in section #3 you mention the coincidence frequency being higher in thin panels. /what happens in a case when the panel is for example one inch EPS but the panel is gradually tapered to the edges to lets say 1/4 inch thick?
Moray,
To be sure I have never done that (tapered a panel), so I can't be sure. But here is what I think "should" happen (theoretically):

The speed of bending waves (for thin plates) is proportional to square root of plate thickness. So bending waves travel a bit faster in thicker plates and slower in thinner plates. So, for a tapered plate, I would imagine that a bending wave would slow down as it moved from the thick section of the plate, to the thinner section of the plate.

For the panel of constant thickness, the wave speed should be constant across the length of the panel for a particular frequency. So the entire panel should have the same coincidence frequency. But for a tapered plate, since the wave speed varies as the wave traverses across the plate, for a particular frequency, the thick part of the plate my be above coincidence, while the thinner part would be below coincidence. Hence, any transition in sound radiation that happens at coincidence would happen less abruptly for the tapered plate than for the constant thickness plate.

Eric
 
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