Yeah I was also wondering exactly what you are envisioning for the 3 way.3-way??
I can only assume you want to run the DML panel from, say, 100hz on the low end up to, say, 7khz on the top.
How did you discover all of the peaks and spikes and troughs?My goal is to build a pair of 3-way tower speakers - here is a part of my journey so far.
I have set up and taken spl readings of these different monolithic materials with no cuts or special shapes, damping, or composite layering.
I have a stack of 6 Dayton exciters that I have burned out, or damaged over the last few weeks.
I have 5 functional exciters remaining, I now use a shoe horn to pry the foot off the panel, instead of twisting from the top, and i have a little 1amp fuse on the red wire to catch high currents.
I reviewed these materials to get a snapshot of what their strengths were.
TLDR: I wouldn't recommend a monolithic material for anyone wanting a full range flat frequency response with 80db+ SPL.
for the Americans who need a quick comparison of the mm numbers from the results below:
1/4th inch is ~5mm
1/8th inch is ~3.7mm
1/16th inch is ~1.6mm
In the size of 30x30cm(12x12inch) with free edges I have tested, with brief notes, and thicknesses:
- polystyrene low density - loud, high distortion
- polystyrene high density (like what you get for holding a flat-screen tv in a box) - loud, peaky resonances
- XPS (the pink panel) - loud, peaky resonances
- Polyethylene open cell foam (1mm, 2mm, 15mm) - quiet, flat bass response
- Polycarbonate core flute board (5mm) - loud, peaky resonances
- Carbon fiber twill sheet (0.5mm) - loud, shrill resonances
- Picture frame UV glass (3mm) - medium, shrill high frequency resonances
- Neoprene closed cell (1mm, 2mm, 3mm) - quiet, flat bass response, upper frequency around 1000hz (this is much better when held taught, but thats not what i was measuring yet)
- Neoprene solid rubber (1mm, 2mm) - medium, flat bass response, upper frequency around 3000hz
- ceiling acoustic panel - medium, the loss of decibels as it reaches the higher frequencies was inexcusable, and it also is heavy.
- Cardboard - corrugated (3mm, 4mm) - loud, great clarity and flat freq between 100 and 1500hz
- Cardboard - honeycomb core (20mm) - loud, great clarity and increasing SPL for freq response from 80 to 5000, drops after that
- Cardboard - solid (2mm,3mm,4mm) - loud, lower spl from 80-1500hz, then increases and is flat to 20khz
- Vinyl - Flooring board (15mm) - quiet, too heavy
- Cutting board plastic (2mm) - loud, spl 90 and flat between 150hz and 2000hz, then dips to 70 decibels between 2000-3000hz, then jumps back to 80 decibels and is flat from 3-20khz (a small dip of 5db 6khz to 6.5khz)
- Acrylic (1mm, 2mm, 3mm) - loud to quiet based on thickness, the SPL average is OK, freq response average drops by 10 decibels between 1k and 20khz, but this is the material with the most hedgehog spiking (30db up and down) for the length of the graph.
- Walnut wood (0.5mm, 3mm) - 3mm is medium loudness, 0.5mm is loud, the 0.5 is good response but full distortion until over 1000hz (its my favorite material when its used with other things though), the 3mm has a flat response in two ranges 150-1000hz anf 6000-16000hz, and massive dips between.
- Basswood (1.5mm, 3mm) - loud, perfectly flat response from 80 to 580hz at SPL 80db, 580-700hz drops by 30db, then from 700hz to 6000hz the SPL jumps to 90db and is flat??!, then another flat plateau from 16khz to 20khz, but at spl 70db
- Balsa wood (1mm, 2mm) - loud, SPL 90db from 100-1000hz, then has a linear drop in SPL from 1000-6000 from 90 to 70 decibels.
- MDF (3mm) - loud, sloped off too fast
- Fiberoid Fish Paper (very strong fibrous and hard paper) (0.5mm) - loud, flat from 500-10000hz, not too spikey, much distortion below 600hz
- Trivek Paper (un-rippable thin light flexible paper) (0.2mm) - loud, distorted until 1khz, then a double hump of a graph with peaks at 1.8khz and 8khz
- Aluminum plate (0.5mm, 0.1mm) - loud, has a graph like a fuzzy caterpillar, the median has a gentle slope down from low to high frequencies, but it has so many resonant coincidences it sounds like a robot is whispering in your ear.
- Aluminum foam sheet (5mm, 10mm) - loud, 80-decibel average (spikey but stays at that spl) from 1k to 10khz, drops off by 10 decibels before and after that band. (great!)
- Titanium plate (0.5mm) - medium, spikey with peaks and troughs all over
- Brass plate (0.5mm) - loud, spike at 1.8khz and from 7-8khz, spikey graph
What measuring gear are you using to take SPL curves?
Right now @Andre Bellwood I’m using a umik-1 that’s in the middle of a foam microphone audio booth, with acoustic panels on all the surfaces between the speaker I’m testing and the mic, behind the speaker for testing on the wall is my unused acoustic absorption ceiling panels with 1.5cm thick wool over them.
I spent a while today building 60x120x8cm sound absorbing panels so I can get a more accurate reading.
I spent a while today building 60x120x8cm sound absorbing panels so I can get a more accurate reading.
So for bass 80hz up I have a 10cm diameter acrylic disc, with two exciters on it. The disc sits on top of a 8cm diameter hole cut into 2mm thick non-foam neoprene rubber.Yeah I was also wondering exactly what you are envisioning for the 3 way.
For mid I have a few options since the 1000-5000hz is the easiest to find for exciters.
A strong candidate is cardboard with honeycomb core, that has been firm rolled with two part epoxy to give it a hard but lightweight finish, and to stop the walls of the cut hexagon core from flapping, and that is glued to a 2mm foam neoprene that is held tight and flat in a frame.
The candidate for 5000-16000+ hz is garolite and something else in a composite.
Maybe glass. Maybe brass.
Although one of these would be very helpful in tracking exactly what changes when the composition changes.
Interesting.So for bass 80hz up I have a 10cm diameter acrylic disc, with two exciters on it. The disc sits on top of a 8cm diameter hole cut into 2mm thick non-foam neoprene rubber.
For mid I have a few options since the 1000-5000hz is the easiest to find for exciters.
A strong candidate is cardboard with honeycomb core, that has been firm rolled with two part epoxy to give it a hard but lightweight finish, and to stop the walls of the cut hexagon core from flapping, and that is glued to a 2mm foam neoprene that is held tight and flat in a frame.
The candidate for 5000-16000+ hz is garolite and something else in a composite.
Maybe glass. Maybe brass.
So are you going to use cross overs?
@Andre Bellwood i can’t reply or quote your post, the button isn’t showing up.
But yes, I’ve got a three way crossover which has 12db/octave attenuation slope, with crossover at 1000 and 5000.
It could very well not be the crossover that gets used pending the tweeter range.
But I was curious what the panels would sound like when given only the frequencies that they were best at.
When I first got a good enough match on all three the music sounded different… it’s hard to describe but it made it feel like seeing higher resolution, or putting on the imax 3D glasses.
And so I’ve been on the continual process of chasing that down, making is reproducible, and also making it aesthetically appealing.
Because an acrylic circle on a piece of rubber strip, while sounding good looks like trash.
But yes, I’ve got a three way crossover which has 12db/octave attenuation slope, with crossover at 1000 and 5000.
It could very well not be the crossover that gets used pending the tweeter range.
But I was curious what the panels would sound like when given only the frequencies that they were best at.
When I first got a good enough match on all three the music sounded different… it’s hard to describe but it made it feel like seeing higher resolution, or putting on the imax 3D glasses.
And so I’ve been on the continual process of chasing that down, making is reproducible, and also making it aesthetically appealing.
Because an acrylic circle on a piece of rubber strip, while sounding good looks like trash.
I would like to use the concept of a folding room divider for each speaker, whether I make them full size or tabletop size will end up be down to my wife’s tolerance levels for them.
Examples from my design look book:
Examples from my design look book:
Keep in mind that one of the massive advantages of DMLs is virtually zero phase shift on the impedance curve.
This gets destroyed by crossover networks.
Another big DML advantage is that one does not need crossovers in the midrange where the ear is most sensitive to anomalies.
This gets destroyed by crossover networks.
Another big DML advantage is that one does not need crossovers in the midrange where the ear is most sensitive to anomalies.
@Andre Bellwood thanks, I wasn’t aware of that.
the sound I was getting was very enjoyable, better than what a single panel was producing.
I’ll have a look at the phase graph after I wire it back up and see what it’s doing there.
the sound I was getting was very enjoyable, better than what a single panel was producing.
I’ll have a look at the phase graph after I wire it back up and see what it’s doing there.
Jamie ..Also be mindful that there's a size effect in these panels and that test results on 300x300 panels will likely not be reliable when applied as a selection criteria for larger panels
Eucy
Eucy
@Eucyblues99 hm… do you know the difference it makes? I could cut a panel or two to a few sizes and measure it.
My assumption is the larger panel has a larger amplitude, and the ratio of the sides can affect some resonance peaks and dips, and the material affects the speed of sound.
But I can test this and see what changes
My assumption is the larger panel has a larger amplitude, and the ratio of the sides can affect some resonance peaks and dips, and the material affects the speed of sound.
But I can test this and see what changes
Hello André,Keep in mind that one of the massive advantages of DMLs is virtually zero phase shift on the impedance curve.
Not sure to understand that.
The phase shift on a FR occurs in relation with the level changes. For example, at each end of the bandwidth of a loudspeaker. With standard pistonic speaker it is something to manage in the crossover design. The DML being a full range or at list a wide range, the desired cutoff frequency might be further than in the case of a pistonic speaker but...
- The phase change very quickly also at each peak of the FR linked to modes or panel resonances and here by the nature of DML probably with more local changes than with a pistonic speaker.
- The impedance curve is not as smooth as the curve of a pistonic speaker (see my posts before). The crossover design suppose the loudspeaker being resistive. Additional networks are used to reach this requirement. For DML... everything has to be said. I just made a 12dB High Pass for a panel; without thinking more than that, I mitigate the effect of the multiple mode peaks by putting a 6.8Ohm resistor in parallel of the exciter which not good for the efficiency.
Christian
Hi Christian,
Here's the impedance and impedance phase curve of a panel with 4 drivers on it. No cross-over. Green curve is impedance, the dotted curve is impedance phase.
The important thing to note is that eventhough there are several peaks in the impedance response, they are minimal, a few ohms at most, and nothing like the massive swings presented by piston speakers and their cross-over networks.
If I had to add cross-overs to the drivers in the curves shown, then besides amplitude changes in magnitude to the individual drivers, there would be at least 90° opposing phase shifts at their associated cross-over points. Bessel or Linkwitz-Riley filters attempt to address this problem, but the over-all, relatively flat system impedance phase response would be negatively affected.
To me, it's anathema to introduce standard cross-overs into DML panels, but I do agree that there are ways of cheating a bit, and adding passive components (shorting caps! 😎 ) to modify driver responses a bit without stuffing up the impedance phasing too much.
IMO Mechanical "cross-overs" (ortho-springs) are a much better way of retaining DML action while separating the panels into their own bands where they work best.
Here's the impedance and impedance phase curve of a panel with 4 drivers on it. No cross-over. Green curve is impedance, the dotted curve is impedance phase.
The important thing to note is that eventhough there are several peaks in the impedance response, they are minimal, a few ohms at most, and nothing like the massive swings presented by piston speakers and their cross-over networks.
If I had to add cross-overs to the drivers in the curves shown, then besides amplitude changes in magnitude to the individual drivers, there would be at least 90° opposing phase shifts at their associated cross-over points. Bessel or Linkwitz-Riley filters attempt to address this problem, but the over-all, relatively flat system impedance phase response would be negatively affected.
To me, it's anathema to introduce standard cross-overs into DML panels, but I do agree that there are ways of cheating a bit, and adding passive components (shorting caps! 😎 ) to modify driver responses a bit without stuffing up the impedance phasing too much.
IMO Mechanical "cross-overs" (ortho-springs) are a much better way of retaining DML action while separating the panels into their own bands where they work best.
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A larger panel will extend the FR downwards. Experiment with edge damping to modify your bass response.@Eucyblues99 hm… do you know the difference it makes? I could cut a panel or two to a few sizes and measure it.
My assumption is the larger panel has a larger amplitude, and the ratio of the sides can affect some resonance peaks and dips, and the material affects the speed of sound.
But I can test this and see what changes
If you want to increase efficiency then use multiple drivers and/or lighter density materials and composites.
Lighter density materials will generally increase your midrange response.
There are standard length/width ratios that give you the best node coverage.
Large peaks and dips are generally caused by incorrect driver positioning and/or poor dimensional ratios.
Take lots of measurements and store them for later reference. Judging by ear alone is a perfect recipe for blinkered opinion and your panels will eventually sound "good" (whatever that means) only to you.
Eucy is in general correct here. But I do think the 300x300 "free" test is a reliable indicator of the relative efficiency(loudness) of different materials, as well as at what frequency and how fast their response starts falling off at the high frequency end.Jamie ..Also be mindful that there's a size effect in these panels and that test results on 300x300 panels will likely not be reliable when applied as a selection criteria for larger panels
Eucy
But as Andre pointed out, the low frequency response is dependent on the panel size, aspect ratio, and boundary conditions, in combination with the properties of the panel (elastic moduli, density, thickness...). So testing a 300x300 mm panel gives you very little (if any) information about how to get low frequency response (except telling you which material will go the lowest at that particular size).
@Eucyblues99 hm… do you know the difference it makes? I could cut a panel or two to a few sizes and measure it.
My assumption is the larger panel has a larger amplitude, and the ratio of the sides can affect some resonance peaks and dips, and the material affects the speed of sound.
It's a little too complex to "measure it" with a few tests of different sizes.
Actually, the size and aspect ratio of the panel (and boundary conditions) arguably affects all (not some) of the resonance peaks and dips. But the biggest effect will be at low frequencies, where the density of modes is small. At higher frequencies there is more overlap so individual modes (resonances) have less impact.
FEM (Finite Element Modeling) is a good way to get an idea of how these things work if you have the interest.
Eric
Ah, so you mean a three way where each of the elements is a different DML. Not many (if any?) of us are doing that. I'm not saying it's a bad approach, just that the more common is to combine a DML with a pistonic sub, as I do. I typically get 100 Hz to say 12-15k with a single panel. At my age I can only hear up to about 11k, so adding a separate panel for highs would be superfluous. Hence, a two way with a sub crossing over at around 100 Hz is all I think I need.So for bass 80hz up I have a 10cm diameter acrylic disc, with two exciters on it. The disc sits on top of a 8cm diameter hole cut into 2mm thick non-foam neoprene rubber.
For mid I have a few options since the 1000-5000hz is the easiest to find for exciters.
A strong candidate is cardboard with honeycomb core, that has been firm rolled with two part epoxy to give it a hard but lightweight finish, and to stop the walls of the cut hexagon core from flapping, and that is glued to a 2mm foam neoprene that is held tight and flat in a frame.
The candidate for 5000-16000+ hz is garolite and something else in a composite.
Maybe glass. Maybe brass.
Eric
Interesting!Hi Christian,
Here's the impedance and impedance phase curve of a panel with 4 drivers on it. No cross-over. Green curve is impedance, the dotted curve is impedance phase.
The important thing to note is that eventhough there are several peaks in the impedance response, they are minimal, a few ohms at most, and nothing like the massive swings presented by piston speakers and their cross-over networks.
If I had to add cross-overs to the drivers in the curves shown, then besides amplitude changes in magnitude to the individual drivers, there would be at least 90° opposing phase shifts at their associated cross-over points. Bessel or Linkwitz-Riley filters attempt to address this problem, but the over-all, relatively flat system impedance phase response would be negatively affected.
To me, it's anathema to introduce standard cross-overs into DML panels, but I do agree that there are ways of cheating a bit, and adding passive components (shorting caps! 😎 ) to modify driver responses a bit without stuffing up the impedance phasing too much.
IMO Mechanical "cross-overs" (ortho-springs) are a much better way of retaining DML action while separating the panels into their own bands where they work best.
View attachment 1173770
And the parallel resistor I suggest will limit even more the impedance variation. let's suppose 6.8Ohm in parallel of this DMLwith a mini 5Ohm to max 17Ohm, it will result... oh, oh 2.9 to 4.8 Ohm. A bit too low probably (6.8Ohm was what I had close to me!).
Some simulation might say more!
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