The PCB silk clearly shows the sharp corner, which is also clearly visable on the Tent Clock. If that is not clear enough, well sorry...
I'm not making a big deal of it, but it isn't enough. The common convention is a dot or mark for Pin 1, not to rely on a corner that is only obvious once you know. A one line description in the build instructions would just cover this off
As the dot is at the same Position as the sharp corner, I will put a dot on the silk print for the next round of boards, so it is extra clear.
Ok, now that you mention it, I see the sharp corner as opposed to the other slightly rounded ones.
Thanks !
Thanks !
Seems evident confusion here
Probably not a bad idea to have both markings
Just would have thought if guys were uncertain they would investigate further
Probably not a bad idea to have both markings
Just would have thought if guys were uncertain they would investigate further
I looked on the DDDac Website and Tent Websites: no guidance. I looked elsewhere and read the 'convention' is a dot marks Pin 1. On my Tent Clock the dot does not = the sharp corner...........😕
A new thread for mods would be great. I'm keen to try something else as the clock delay mod made such good improvements.
Interested to hear about a new DSD dac. Would this be new dac boards only of main board too do you think? I'm toying with buying a new main board to tidy up the Spdif.
a small remark
Hello everybody,
If you start getting interested in this dac by seeing information on other sites and eventually you end up here you might end up not buying it.
Just to many ideas make you have doubts about the original concept.
I am 95 or maybe 99% sure that i will wait for a new board to arrive that will have most of the improvements '' on board '' so to say.
Maybe the new one can exist next to the old one if it will end up costing a lot more.
Also a pity that with most modifications done diy style you will end up with a heavy mutulated board.
Sincere greetings, edward
Hello everybody,
If you start getting interested in this dac by seeing information on other sites and eventually you end up here you might end up not buying it.
Just to many ideas make you have doubts about the original concept.
I am 95 or maybe 99% sure that i will wait for a new board to arrive that will have most of the improvements '' on board '' so to say.
Maybe the new one can exist next to the old one if it will end up costing a lot more.
Also a pity that with most modifications done diy style you will end up with a heavy mutulated board.
Sincere greetings, edward
Hello,
It could be but i guess the majority of people just want to have something better than the finished products available in the shop and listening to music during evenings than spending their spare time doing the latest mods and in the end end up with print traces heated so many times that soldering becomes a crime.
Sincere greetings, Ed
It could be but i guess the majority of people just want to have something better than the finished products available in the shop and listening to music during evenings than spending their spare time doing the latest mods and in the end end up with print traces heated so many times that soldering becomes a crime.
Sincere greetings, Ed
So ignore all the mods stated on here as the standard design does exactly what you are looking for....better than producs in the shop.
I had a top of the range Bel Canto 3.5 DAC with their VBS PSU and the DDDAC in standard form equaled it!
negative rail for optimal pin 20 CCS
I've taken a step back and re-examined the pin 20 CCS project a little... Though carlsor's CCS likely maximizes the potential of sticking with +8V/+2.4V as limitations for the CCS, a lot more headroom could be provided had a negative rail be available (pointed out first by Zen Mod). Then, a (true) cascode JFET CCS(ink) could be used for truly excellent performance (and relative simplicity), or really, any number of other circuits performing this duty.
But there's no negative rail, is there?... Well, the standard power supply is a center tap full wave. Swapping a bridge in there would allow re-configuring it as symmetrical, with a minimum of changes. The positive half would supply everything else (more or less) the same as before, the negative would allow sinking the 400uA at pin 20.
One drawback would be that the new power supply would be able to feed a smaller number of decks, as the maximum current delivered would decrease, with a given transformer...
Worth investigating.
I've taken a step back and re-examined the pin 20 CCS project a little... Though carlsor's CCS likely maximizes the potential of sticking with +8V/+2.4V as limitations for the CCS, a lot more headroom could be provided had a negative rail be available (pointed out first by Zen Mod). Then, a (true) cascode JFET CCS(ink) could be used for truly excellent performance (and relative simplicity), or really, any number of other circuits performing this duty.
But there's no negative rail, is there?... Well, the standard power supply is a center tap full wave. Swapping a bridge in there would allow re-configuring it as symmetrical, with a minimum of changes. The positive half would supply everything else (more or less) the same as before, the negative would allow sinking the 400uA at pin 20.
One drawback would be that the new power supply would be able to feed a smaller number of decks, as the maximum current delivered would decrease, with a given transformer...
Worth investigating.
You could leave all ps as is and add in a linear wall wart maybe 5v or so
for the neg rail
Anyone suggest a suitable low noise transistor with low capacitance?
to use on conjuction with 2sk208
for the neg rail
Anyone suggest a suitable low noise transistor with low capacitance?
to use on conjuction with 2sk208
Hi guys
Can anyone please tell me what's the best caps for use on top of a 4 deck dac stack between A-pos and A-neg, and between B-pos and B-neg ?
I found both Wima FKP2 and Vishay 1837 in my soldering bench. The value is perfect i think, 15nf.
I guess they both will be good or is there a good reason to choose one in front of the other?
Anyone ?
Can anyone please tell me what's the best caps for use on top of a 4 deck dac stack between A-pos and A-neg, and between B-pos and B-neg ?
I found both Wima FKP2 and Vishay 1837 in my soldering bench. The value is perfect i think, 15nf.
I guess they both will be good or is there a good reason to choose one in front of the other?
Anyone ?
I looked that up earlier today. 15 nF was in the middle of the range Doede specified for 4 stack. It's the number I picked. I need to order some tomorrow.
I don't think there will be much difference between caps for this purpose.
I don't think there will be much difference between caps for this purpose.
Yes, first try without, but what will be different with caps ? Less risk to get noise ? Maybe it's not audible, but only measurable ? No big deal, I will try without first.