I don't know. They don't have a name. Bought the boards from a fellow diyaudio.com member from England.
Perhaps Nichicon?
Perhaps Nichicon?
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ok thanks Bas, these are well known low ESR capacitors. Did you ever had the opportunity to compare these boards with the boards stocked with the "normal kit" capacitors?
Or anyone else for that matter? 🤔
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Or anyone else for that matter? 🤔
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No sorry. Went from standard caps with one deck on red board to three on blue with Nichicon. Apples with pears.
What is the consensus on getting something like a fifopiq7 for the redboard based dddac? I have bought a 2nd hand red motherboard with 4 daughter boards stacked.
Initially I thought I would use use my hifiberry digi + pro (1.2) i2s output to dddac. Since getting the iancanada (for my main blue board) reclocker I'm thinking about again using one of his products.
But I know there is something about the readboard with a delay or lack of delay or lack of buffer....
Long story short. Is it worth getting a fifopi to drive the redboard?
Initially I thought I would use use my hifiberry digi + pro (1.2) i2s output to dddac. Since getting the iancanada (for my main blue board) reclocker I'm thinking about again using one of his products.
But I know there is something about the readboard with a delay or lack of delay or lack of buffer....
Long story short. Is it worth getting a fifopi to drive the redboard?
Lol...I'm getting old. Should be apples with oranges. Apples with pears is the dutch version.
I honestly wouldn't bother too much with the red board. I had a lot of issues with getting mine to work with I2S. With the newer blue board things just worked, and I also think the sound was better (due to the cleaner processing of the digital signal). I'd try to replace the red board with a blue one.
Ok. My first red board worked fine with i2s. Just not with multiple boards. Hence the upgrade to blue.
I still have the 1/2 delay groupbuy board I can work into the red board. Have not done it yet...because I was to scared of doing something wrong.
I'll get it to work with my hifiberry i2s thingy...and can always upgrade later.
I'll get it to work with my hifiberry i2s thingy...and can always upgrade later.
Bas, if you use this, do not forget to change the 1k resistor at the DATA line on the DAC modules to a 100 Ohm.
this will prevent that you will have two times 1/2 delay 😬
by the way, does your red board still the LF33 on board or already the LF50? It was changed later on to LF50 to avoid issues with 4 boards stacks, which were not stable when using 3.3 volt
this will prevent that you will have two times 1/2 delay 😬
by the way, does your red board still the LF33 on board or already the LF50? It was changed later on to LF50 to avoid issues with 4 boards stacks, which were not stable when using 3.3 volt
Hi @dddac. A quick check, with my recently shipped 15v supply parts, audiocreative sent me 2 pieces of 10,000uf caps where 4,700uf was marked on the pcb. Does this already take care of the cap upgrade tweak you talk of in your psu upgrade/tweaks blog post? Or should i still increase the value of the cap to 20000uf on the board to get a better sound? Here are few pictures of the populated section of the psu.
Attachments
Trying to find connections for i2s signals from hifiberty digi+ pro to dddac main board. Not seeing a whole lot of information from HIFiberry website.
Yeah hifiberry suck. I once asked them what dac a new board used. They said that they don't give out information like that.
After doing some research, I found some information on audio creative. One thing that does not make sense is the master clock signal Mck it is on the silk screen of the dddac main board, but it’s not shown anywhere on the schematic itself
Thanks guys it’s time to make this thing work had enough of Bluetooth audio streaming