2000 grit on the colour then clearcoat on top will be ideal. If you polish the colour before putting on the clearcoat it may not adhere very well.
Kareface,
I checked out your gallery today and you have done an impressive job on your HT. Congratulations on a well built listening room. Good quality and details on the pictures too. Very nice. One of your pictures on the TV shows what looks like a space scene, which movie was that?
Are your front speakers a Jon Marsh design? Natalie P?
The Daytons look familiar, I built a set of MTs for my daughter last Christmas. Very good sound for the $$$.
Ron
I checked out your gallery today and you have done an impressive job on your HT. Congratulations on a well built listening room. Good quality and details on the pictures too. Very nice. One of your pictures on the TV shows what looks like a space scene, which movie was that?
Are your front speakers a Jon Marsh design? Natalie P?
The Daytons look familiar, I built a set of MTs for my daughter last Christmas. Very good sound for the $$$.
Ron
Thanks, I was really happy with the way everything turned out. The clip I think you're looking at is just a screen saver of various images I have on my HD.
They are indeed. I've been really happy with the design. They are a great project to start out with and it really got me interested in building another pair.
Thanks for all the information in this thread. It has really helped me.
I'm currently in the process of painting two sonotubes. My first time attempting to spray paint.. They are primed with Dupont 1052R.
I sprayed one of the plates with a glossy black.
On the box it says Dupont Imron Elite 3.5 VOC P.U. Topcoat.
So I check the safety data sheet: http://sdstds.dupontrefinish.info/resources/ds_1/DOC/DATA/SDS/GB/EN/GB_EN_I-ELITEPB_DRE.pdf
Atleast I think it's that one, there is another similar but without the lead.
Does this paint contain polyurethane? Been giving it alot of thought lately. It says P.U. on the label. It's most likely short for poly urethane.. lol
I should call or mail Dupont and ask them..
Anyways, the thing I'm really curious about. I have wetsanded with 2000grit. It's really matt now. Is it ok to add some clear? Do I even need clear? I think that paint is singlestage. Basecoat and topcoat in one. They just named it a topcoat on the label.
I'm currently in the process of painting two sonotubes. My first time attempting to spray paint.. They are primed with Dupont 1052R.
I sprayed one of the plates with a glossy black.
On the box it says Dupont Imron Elite 3.5 VOC P.U. Topcoat.
So I check the safety data sheet: http://sdstds.dupontrefinish.info/resources/ds_1/DOC/DATA/SDS/GB/EN/GB_EN_I-ELITEPB_DRE.pdf
Atleast I think it's that one, there is another similar but without the lead.
Does this paint contain polyurethane? Been giving it alot of thought lately. It says P.U. on the label. It's most likely short for poly urethane.. lol
I should call or mail Dupont and ask them..
Anyways, the thing I'm really curious about. I have wetsanded with 2000grit. It's really matt now. Is it ok to add some clear? Do I even need clear? I think that paint is singlestage. Basecoat and topcoat in one. They just named it a topcoat on the label.
If it's a topcoat you can just polish it up now, but if you want massive depth then you can put clear on top then flat and polish that for extreme finish or just put clear on and leave it for an OK finish.
Thanks. I will try laying some clear down on them.. I've heard its harder to spray but it is good practice.
Also found out dupont imron elite isnt polyurethane. Can just use regular gas filter 😀
How do you guys fix pinholes? I just fixed some with a syringe. But I put to much down in there so looks like i have blobs all over my plates now.. Should sand down and spray another layer of black.
Also found out dupont imron elite isnt polyurethane. Can just use regular gas filter 😀
How do you guys fix pinholes? I just fixed some with a syringe. But I put to much down in there so looks like i have blobs all over my plates now.. Should sand down and spray another layer of black.
Has anyone used this stuff- Famowood Crystal Clear Glaze Coat
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Houston, we have a problem...
I applied some poly yesterday, and after 24 hours, I'm seeing discoloration of the black!
After all this work, I'll still take it back down to bare wood (again) and start over to get a smooth, clear finish, but can anyone tell me what is causing this?
I applied some poly yesterday, and after 24 hours, I'm seeing discoloration of the black!
After all this work, I'll still take it back down to bare wood (again) and start over to get a smooth, clear finish, but can anyone tell me what is causing this?
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Looks like a reaction to the epoxy top coat and the sub structure paint.
From the MSDS;
"Solubility > Partially soluble in the following materials: water."
I've seen paint discolor like that when exposed to water prior to finish coat.
It is, and we have, recommended to stay within product lines for compatibility issues.
Very sorry to see that happen after all your hard work. We all feel your pain.
Ron
From the MSDS;
"Solubility > Partially soluble in the following materials: water."
I've seen paint discolor like that when exposed to water prior to finish coat.
It is, and we have, recommended to stay within product lines for compatibility issues.
Very sorry to see that happen after all your hard work. We all feel your pain.
Ron
Well, per your sig, I hope they catch on fire!
Er, well, perhaps I'll just take them back down to wood or primer coat and start over with prime, paint, sand, paint-paint, sand, paint, etc...
I've certainly got the technique down now.
Er, well, perhaps I'll just take them back down to wood or primer coat and start over with prime, paint, sand, paint-paint, sand, paint, etc...
I've certainly got the technique down now.
I just discovered this thread after many failed attempts of achieving glossy piano black finish just by painting. I could not paint too many layers as dust and particles start accumulating on the surface, and I did not think of actually finishing it with sand and polish! Brilliant!
I however, I hate spraying. I have a small garage with poor ventilation, and most of the sprayed paint ends up in my lungs and sourroundings. With a simple brush or roller, I can achieve surface without "orange peel" or any other texture, simply by adjusting the paint density by mixing it with white spirit. Provided the density is right and paint is slow drying type, it cures all brush marks perfectly and does not run.
Second, I am thinking about simply painting few coats of black paint, instead of clear coat, then sand and polish. Any reasons this should not work?
I however, I hate spraying. I have a small garage with poor ventilation, and most of the sprayed paint ends up in my lungs and sourroundings. With a simple brush or roller, I can achieve surface without "orange peel" or any other texture, simply by adjusting the paint density by mixing it with white spirit. Provided the density is right and paint is slow drying type, it cures all brush marks perfectly and does not run.
Second, I am thinking about simply painting few coats of black paint, instead of clear coat, then sand and polish. Any reasons this should not work?
I am puzzled a bit how to find rubbing and polish compounds brands in Belgium. What is actually a rubbing compound?
Farecla G3 is a cutting compound if you can find it over there. 3M do some as well. Most of them need to be used with a machine though.
This is what I found, posing together with first brush layer on Hatt MkIII. Looks like it might work. I am not planning to put more than 3 layers, it should be thicker when applied with brush anyway...
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They look ideal, but for the perfectionist touch you would apply a polish after the cut and before the wax, to clean up the surface. Beware though as a lot of polishes also have a waxing action.