Thanks . I should also thank @cal3713 who very kindly shared his hard work matching Harris Mosfets which I was lucky enough to benefit from
I love the ethos of this community
..dB
I love the ethos of this community

..dB
Me having both, too, but only one chassis (and PSU) for the two of them - need to swap ...
by the way, at the moment listening to Tandberg 1040P I just got myself for restoration ... will go into system of one of my sons afterwards 😉
by the way, at the moment listening to Tandberg 1040P I just got myself for restoration ... will go into system of one of my sons afterwards 😉
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Don
Fantastic job !!!!😎😎😎😎😎😎😎
What preamp are you using - apologies if you posted it and I missed it.
Be safe
Bob
Fantastic job !!!!😎😎😎😎😎😎😎
What preamp are you using - apologies if you posted it and I missed it.
Be safe
Bob
and I found my auidophool problem
I decided I would get some better "audiophile" parts for this build and bought some KLEI RCA connectors - turns out my RCA doesn't fit snugly and with even the slightest of movement - the ground connection gets lost.
Lesson learned - stick with neutrik which I know works well and has never failed me.
..dB
Or maybe you just need to get better female RCA jacks for your F4!
I'm not arguing with you, but I have some KLEI ends on my RCA cables and have never had a problem. That's across numerous pieces of gear they've connected.
And congrats on the amp. Very happy to help and glad you like it. Love mine every day and never really think about changing amps (aside from the chance to build rare things like the SE SIT amp), just figuring out ways to extract every inch of performance from this circuit.
Somehow I quit receiving e-mail updates for this thread until a random one today.
Somehow I quit receiving e-mail updates for this thread until a random one today.
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Thanks Bob
Preamp in the picture is actually a UNITY gain bootstrapped tube buffer - this is in my study with nearfield speakers. Had no trouble driving them and did an exceptional job of it. Moved it over to see how it handled the Maggies earlier this evening and there the preamp is a Cavalli Audio Liquid Glass which has plenty of gain. I wasn't sure what to expect but I am well pleased..dB
re the KLEI RCA - they are very good, I switched out RCA cables for WBTesque versions that allow you to screw clamp - no trouble
Preamp in the picture is actually a UNITY gain bootstrapped tube buffer - this is in my study with nearfield speakers. Had no trouble driving them and did an exceptional job of it. Moved it over to see how it handled the Maggies earlier this evening and there the preamp is a Cavalli Audio Liquid Glass which has plenty of gain. I wasn't sure what to expect but I am well pleased..dB
re the KLEI RCA - they are very good, I switched out RCA cables for WBTesque versions that allow you to screw clamp - no trouble
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Thanks dB - you always have such interesting projects.
I haven't done a F4 for years. I passed it on to a friend. Glad to see this thread is so active.
Me - totally enjoying the Sissy with my Tannoys. Pre is ZM's Turtle. Great combo.
I haven't done a F4 for years. I passed it on to a friend. Glad to see this thread is so active.
Me - totally enjoying the Sissy with my Tannoys. Pre is ZM's Turtle. Great combo.
Tannoys, SissySITs and Iron Pumpkins are for Sissies

but, it is interesting to know that Bubba's Tanns are sorta special ..... let's call them "Well Listened Ones"
🙂

but, it is interesting to know that Bubba's Tanns are sorta special ..... let's call them "Well Listened Ones"
🙂
Hope to get a listen to a pair one day. The F4 in my system doesn't have the gain needed to drive the planar panels. Need to get the sissy sorted out again.
.. dB
.. dB
Hope to get a listen to a pair one day. The F4 in my system doesn't have the gain needed to drive the planar panels. Need to get the sissy sorted out again.
.. dB
Did you try with various pre-amps? F4 is said to be quite powerful/stable, but is totally dependent on what’s coming in...
Hmm, perhaps not the optimum tubes in that Cavalli preamp? I clicked on that link, and in the tech specs gain is described as "1/2 the mu of the triodes in use" so if you have 6SN7s in use, you have a gain of 1/2 * 20, or a gain of 10. You could try a high-mu tube or two, like the 12AT7 or 6SL7 and you'd have a gain of 30 or 35. If that's enough, or too much, you could work your way down (12AY7, 6DJ8?) until you find the optimum gain structure.
If I understand correctly (not a given, by the way) the solid-state buffer section should alleviate any concerns about lack of drive from the high-mu tubes. Worth a shot?
If I understand correctly (not a given, by the way) the solid-state buffer section should alleviate any concerns about lack of drive from the high-mu tubes. Worth a shot?
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