Hi Henjo,
The coil looks nice but I think it has to much inductance so you loose highs.
I only use a couple of windings for the right balance between to much induction and BL
Build a couple of them all with different voice coils and you can easy measure the difference.
Rob
Hi Rob,
Thank you for the hint.
In this case the properties are:
L = 0,457 mH.
Bl = 11,52
Not very extreme values for a fullrange unit.
As I mensioned above. I am taking the trial and error way.
I'm am filling in my own matrix with variables.
As there are length, height and material of the webs. (mechanical)
Diameter, length and turns of the wire. (electrical)
Regards,
Henjo
Hello my friends,
How's the progress so far?
I just bought some copper wire yesterday:0.22 and 0.19 CuEm and some aluminium squared rods. I hope that next week I will finish my modified Hiraga super class a amp and begin this project. Till now I had some problems with the heat dissipation and changed the chassis design two times...its an awfull lots of heat dissipated in this amp when you cross the 30w barrier of the original design. Now I changed from two rads to four rads and everything's just fine. I have to do the fine tuning and some paint and its done.
Excuse the off toppic.
Wrine I havent seen you for a while here, how are you doing?
Cheers
Sergiu
How's the progress so far?
I just bought some copper wire yesterday:0.22 and 0.19 CuEm and some aluminium squared rods. I hope that next week I will finish my modified Hiraga super class a amp and begin this project. Till now I had some problems with the heat dissipation and changed the chassis design two times...its an awfull lots of heat dissipated in this amp when you cross the 30w barrier of the original design. Now I changed from two rads to four rads and everything's just fine. I have to do the fine tuning and some paint and its done.
Excuse the off toppic.
Wrine I havent seen you for a while here, how are you doing?
Cheers
Sergiu
Hello my friends,
How's the progress so far?
I just bought some copper wire yesterday:0.22 and 0.19 CuEm and some aluminium squared rods. I hope that next week I will finish my modified Hiraga super class a amp and begin this project. Till now I had some problems with the heat dissipation and changed the chassis design two times...its an awfull lots of heat dissipated in this amp when you cross the 30w barrier of the original design. Now I changed from two rads to four rads and everything's just fine. I have to do the fine tuning and some paint and its done.
Excuse the off toppic.
Wrine I havent seen you for a while here, how are you doing?
Cheers
Sergiu
Hi ! I'm still here but I was on vacation and right now as we speak I'm sitting on the airport waiting at the gate for the next vacation 🙂
I will be around soon when I'm back 🙂
Btw enjo , nice this magnet structure simplify winding allot but what material shoul de core be ? Same as the bars I presume, would be nice to have out of one piece . But that would mean machining cold rolled steel. I can't 🙁
Hello my friends. How are you doing?
I stopped all my projects for three weeks, this includes the amplifier and rubans because of a total overhaul in the house. I still have one week of work and then ill be back in bussiness.
How are you guys? Did you find anything else? I found that F.Deminiere's janus and AudioNec rubanoide have double coils (double windings on each coil, the purpose is that this speaker must act as a push pull dipole) wired in ANTIPHASE (+- and -+).
This limits the excursion, give better dist. figures, lower impedance at hight frecv, better overall linearity.
This is really interesting. I have all the materials but not the time right now.... Cant wait to begin this project.
Anybody know how to drill cold rolled steel? How about cobalt drill bits?
Cheers
Sergiu
I stopped all my projects for three weeks, this includes the amplifier and rubans because of a total overhaul in the house. I still have one week of work and then ill be back in bussiness.
How are you guys? Did you find anything else? I found that F.Deminiere's janus and AudioNec rubanoide have double coils (double windings on each coil, the purpose is that this speaker must act as a push pull dipole) wired in ANTIPHASE (+- and -+).
This limits the excursion, give better dist. figures, lower impedance at hight frecv, better overall linearity.
This is really interesting. I have all the materials but not the time right now.... Cant wait to begin this project.
Anybody know how to drill cold rolled steel? How about cobalt drill bits?
Cheers
Sergiu
Hello my friends. How are you doing?
I stopped all my projects for three weeks, this includes the amplifier and rubans because of a total overhaul in the house. I still have one week of work and then ill be back in bussiness.
How are you guys? Did you find anything else? I found that F.Deminiere's janus and AudioNec rubanoide have double coils (double windings on each coil, the purpose is that this speaker must act as a push pull dipole) wired in ANTIPHASE (+- and -+).
This limits the excursion, give better dist. figures, lower impedance at hight frecv, better overall linearity.
/QUOTE]
could you so kind to expalin better this ? How are the coil respect to the magnets?
Hello my friends. How are you doing?
I stopped all my projects for three weeks, this includes the amplifier and rubans because of a total overhaul in the house. I still have one week of work and then ill be back in bussiness.
How are you guys? Did you find anything else? I found that F.Deminiere's janus and AudioNec rubanoide have double coils (double windings on each coil, the purpose is that this speaker must act as a push pull dipole) wired in ANTIPHASE (+- and -+).
This limits the excursion, give better dist. figures, lower impedance at hight frecv, better overall linearity.
/QUOTE]
could you so kind to expalin better this ? How are the coil respect to the magnets?
Hi Aiace, i didnt understand quite good what you where asking but here is an explanation from a french guy that has experimented with this kind of speaker allot, from flux density to membrane density and other stuff:
"For the coil of Janus there is a singular characteristic that is taken into account: it is double, with one side of the rectangle which leads an updraft and the other side a downdraft; the polarity of the two air gaps being reversed, there is what the manufacturer calls the push-pull effect. This causes a particular phenomenon should the planar coil comes to travel too far: the rear coil comes to be in the front gap and meets a reverse magnetic flux, and there is braking (I consider the time required for displacement may be considered invalid, but in reality, when the other part of the winding reaches the opposite gap, the signal has changed). And this brake is two-fold, when the spool moves forward as far as when it goes rearward. So a Janus membrane can never know the equivalent of tailgating can happen in a cone. The result is that freedom of movement is exactly determined by the width of the flat coil winding on, what course should match the distance separating the two air gaps. No doubt this distance can be a testing ground for the dynamic control via the amplitude of the movements that the membrane may know. The same goes for the number of laps on the flat coil that will influence the width of each coil which remains permanently in the magnetic flux of the gap. Good research."
"Tiburce"
It has been Google translated from french and abit adapted to english by me, because some therms where not clear enought.
Hi ! I'm still here but I was on vacation and right now as we speak I'm sitting on the airport waiting at the gate for the next vacation 🙂
I will be around soon when I'm back 🙂
Btw enjo , nice this magnet structure simplify winding allot but what material shoul de core be ? Same as the bars I presume, would be nice to have out of one piece . But that would mean machining cold rolled steel. I can't 🙁
Hello my friend Wrine, how are you ?
How was in vacation?
Cheers
Sergiu
Not doing so Well my relationele ended (after 8 years) and Im Now in THE proces of moving back to my home city . First priority is getting a house and move al the weird stuff I acumilated over these 8 years 🙂 magnets loads of stock wood plastics esl loudspeakers , rigs for various speaker design Cnc machines etc...... Head starts spinning already when thinking about it 🙂. All while not feeling to well.
But when settled i will go full trotlle again 🙂 as for now I just read the new posts when I can
But when settled i will go full trotlle again 🙂 as for now I just read the new posts when I can
Hi Wrine, I'm really sorry for what happened to you. I wish you all the best, and hope to see you soon.
Cheers
Sergiu
Cheers
Sergiu
thx guys , its oke i will survive, new times new things to try. just keep them interesting posts coming guys!
Hello My friends,
How are you guys doing? Any progres?
I have just finished my amp here http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/solid-state/193-hiraga-20w-class-89.html#post4496749 and started the work for the ruban speakers.
Bellow is some work in progress.
Cheers
Sergiu
How are you guys doing? Any progres?
I have just finished my amp here http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/solid-state/193-hiraga-20w-class-89.html#post4496749 and started the work for the ruban speakers.
Bellow is some work in progress.
Cheers
Sergiu
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thats allot of power!! carefull 🙂 i had my metal bend once because the gap was to small it bended the whole steel 🙁 i am kind of on hold on the rubanoid. i somehow did not get the results i was looking for 🙁 if you see the response without eq its kinda bad to be honest 🙁
i will take another look at it when i get some other stuff sorted out, like my esl63 have to fix them to make some money available for nice new projects 🙂
i will take another look at it when i get some other stuff sorted out, like my esl63 have to fix them to make some money available for nice new projects 🙂
Thank you.
Hello my friend, Wrine. How are you? I have seen that you had left the rubans behind..
Im sorry that you didnt get the results you wanted.
The rods are wider, 55.5cm*4cm*1cm so that it doesnt bends (I hope).
I want to try some new things and stuff BUT I dont know where can I find some 110 micron mylar here in Europe....🙁
Hello my friend, Wrine. How are you? I have seen that you had left the rubans behind..
Im sorry that you didnt get the results you wanted.
The rods are wider, 55.5cm*4cm*1cm so that it doesnt bends (I hope).
I want to try some new things and stuff BUT I dont know where can I find some 110 micron mylar here in Europe....🙁
The power is tromendous, I had a chance to loose a finger when I sandwiched the plates..
I have a question, how did you put the two motors face to face without breaking some magnets or loosing some fingers?
The performance is bad but can be inproved my friend. I have read that if the coil isnt perfectly centered or rubing against the two motors all the work is compromised..another thing might be that your ruban hasnt got the original dimensions and a smaller gap and a double sided coil.
I will post my findings too here so that others can see and maybe improve this speaker without our fail trials. I am a dower so I like to test, take notes and share the results.
I hope that all of us unite and really make a big improvemnt on this speaker. To me it shows allot of potential.
Cheers
Sergiu
I have a question, how did you put the two motors face to face without breaking some magnets or loosing some fingers?
The performance is bad but can be inproved my friend. I have read that if the coil isnt perfectly centered or rubing against the two motors all the work is compromised..another thing might be that your ruban hasnt got the original dimensions and a smaller gap and a double sided coil.
I will post my findings too here so that others can see and maybe improve this speaker without our fail trials. I am a dower so I like to test, take notes and share the results.
I hope that all of us unite and really make a big improvemnt on this speaker. To me it shows allot of potential.
Cheers
Sergiu
well im doing pretty fine still not moved out, but its ok 🙂 need to clear some stuff and my mind and focus on one project or i go mad 🙂 i will revisit the rubas's for sure , i know me 🙂
110 micron. thats prety thick indeed. but there are allot of substitutes for such thick material. almost every plastic foil will do 🙂
110 micron. thats prety thick indeed. but there are allot of substitutes for such thick material. almost every plastic foil will do 🙂
The power is tromendous, I had a chance to loose a finger when I sandwiched the plates..
I have a question, how did you put the two motors face to face without breaking some magnets or loosing some fingers?
The performance is bad but can be inproved my friend. I have read that if the coil isnt perfectly centered or rubing against the two motors all the work is compromised..another thing might be that your ruban hasnt got the original dimensions and a smaller gap and a double sided coil.
I will post my findings too here so that others can see and maybe improve this speaker without our fail trials. I am a dower so I like to test, take notes and share the results.
I hope that all of us unite and really make a big improvemnt on this speaker. To me it shows allot of potential.
Cheers
Sergiu
well i always had a top and a bottom plate, milled. with the right spacing for the 2 magnet structures. i then used same size plastic or wood. i put it on top of one of the magnets asembly's then slide the second one on top of that and tapped both in the bottom plate, then taped the top place on the 2 magnet assembly;s and then removed the piece or pieces of plastic in between the gap. but your magnet motor is way stronger then mine. so i dont know if this would work. just be really carefull you can make a mistake easy. and it will cost a finger. in my version nothing rubbed, and i used single coil and dual coil. only thing i can think of is i had not enough turns in my coil? since i had a flat etched coil.. or the choice of material is not right. although i used many different stuff. the plain paper damped with foam worked best for me. it had the lowest distortion. but still way higher then lets say a ESL.
Hello again,
Wrine my friend, I think that your ruban is small and the membranes doesnt have sufficient surface to proprely damp the resonances. I cant wait for you to begin the tests again so that we can compare and improve this speaker.
Here it is some work in progress ( in the pics bellow). This isnt the final version because it has to pass the "one week test" (a french guy recomended this to me) wich means that you have to test your jig as it is in the final form for the magnet gap, my case 3.2 mm gap for one week and if it doesn bends than you can finally glue them 100%.
Unfortunally one bar just bended. You cannot see it in pictures, it is the bar with the chromed screws. If the rest of the bar bends even further than this I have to change it. The bar bended from 3.2 to 2.4 mm.. so I introduced some spacers to keep them like this till the next weekend so that I will change them all at wonce.
In the end I buyed miself 120g/sqm canson paper (the originall janus 50 had 210g/sqm canson) and a speaciall laqueur for prevent humidity not myllar or other stuff. After this week I will begin the testings. Does anyone knows a source for flexible pcb near Romania?
Cheers
Sergiu
Wrine my friend, I think that your ruban is small and the membranes doesnt have sufficient surface to proprely damp the resonances. I cant wait for you to begin the tests again so that we can compare and improve this speaker.
Here it is some work in progress ( in the pics bellow). This isnt the final version because it has to pass the "one week test" (a french guy recomended this to me) wich means that you have to test your jig as it is in the final form for the magnet gap, my case 3.2 mm gap for one week and if it doesn bends than you can finally glue them 100%.
Unfortunally one bar just bended. You cannot see it in pictures, it is the bar with the chromed screws. If the rest of the bar bends even further than this I have to change it. The bar bended from 3.2 to 2.4 mm.. so I introduced some spacers to keep them like this till the next weekend so that I will change them all at wonce.
In the end I buyed miself 120g/sqm canson paper (the originall janus 50 had 210g/sqm canson) and a speaciall laqueur for prevent humidity not myllar or other stuff. After this week I will begin the testings. Does anyone knows a source for flexible pcb near Romania?
Cheers
Sergiu
Attachments
Last edited:
Hello again,
Wrine my friend, I think that your ruban is small and the membranes doesnt have sufficient surface to proprely damp the resonances. I cant wait for you to begin the tests again so that we can compare and improve this speaker.
Here it is some work in progress ( in the pics bellow). This isnt the final version because it has to pass the "one week test" (a french guy recomended this to me) wich means that you have to test your jig as it is in the final form for the magnet gap, my case 3.2 mm gap for one week and if it doesn bends than you can finally glue them 100%.
Unfortunally one bar just bended. You cannot see it in pictures, it is the bar with the chromed screws. If the rest of the bar bends even further than this I have to change it. The bar bended from 3.2 to 2.4 mm.. so I introduced some spacers to keep them like this till the next weekend so that I will change them all at wonce.
In the end I buyed miself 120g/sqm canson paper (the originall janus 50 had 210g/sqm canson) and a speaciall laqueur for prevent humidity not myllar or other stuff. After this week I will begin the testings. Does anyone knows a source for flexible pcb near Romania?
Cheers
Sergiu
ooh wow, thats some massive magnets structure!. looking good. i hope it wont bend any more!. canson paper what is that? ill try to look it up.
about the size, i think it should not be an issue. biggest problem was high frequency if i remember correctly. almost impossible to get a flat response without heavy eq.
looking forward to first measurements!
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