Tb64! I am OFFENDED that in THIS place you would even think to suggest that i build my own cabinets to see if what i think something sounds like is what actually materializes....
I mean COME ON!
What is this some kind of DO IT YOURSELF AUDIO FOR...
oops...uhh...grr...my garbage can lid dont fit...i gotta go!
carry on yall, love this stuff!
I mean COME ON!
What is this some kind of DO IT YOURSELF AUDIO FOR...
oops...uhh...grr...my garbage can lid dont fit...i gotta go!
carry on yall, love this stuff!
That's the idea I was thinking about...still may mount speakers on opposite sides of the board.
There's 2 sheets of 3/4" here, no 1/2", can I just make a few small adjustment and use the 3/4"?
E.g. the width would be 11-3/4"
There's 2 sheets of 3/4" here, no 1/2", can I just make a few small adjustment and use the 3/4"?
E.g. the width would be 11-3/4"
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That's the idea I was thinking about...still may mount speakers on opposite sides of the board.
There's 2 sheets of 3/4" here, no 1/2", can I just make a few small adjustment and use the 3/4"?
E.g. the width would be 11-3/4"
I won't build sub boxes out of 1/2 inch. Always 3/4. Its a nice improvement. I will be working on the cut list later this evening.
I have the amplifier installed, wires ran/hidden under the floor joists and the wall plate for the speaker wire connection installed. This baby is going right behind my couch.
Just for fun, I hooked up a bose acoustamas I had sitting around, to fill in the low end until i build this sub. Wow, with any power at all the sub enclosure itself vibrates and rattles. What garbage.
Here is my first attempt at a cut list. If another set of eyes or two could take a look and confirm that would help. 3/4 inch material.
TOP and BOTTOM
Two - 8" X 49.5" boards
Sides
Two - 11.5" X 51" Sides
S1 Endcap
7" X 9.5"
Full end cap
11.5 X 9.5"
Baffle Board
45 3/8" X 8"
Time to make some sawdust!!
TOP and BOTTOM
Two - 8" X 49.5" boards
Sides
Two - 11.5" X 51" Sides
S1 Endcap
7" X 9.5"
Full end cap
11.5 X 9.5"
Baffle Board
45 3/8" X 8"
Time to make some sawdust!!
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I think 3/4" should be added to the width (there are 3 extra 1/4") The length of the sides would be the same, i.e. the ends go on last, but that said, you could reverse the lap joint.
I never cut both sides at the same time/exactly the same, always leave one side "big"; then I come back and router or belt sand it flush.
* The 1/2" is not bad, I'm sure you could park a car on the folded boxes; the thing is...you can't really save any $$ using 1/2", they cost about the same.
**You can come back and re-wrap a 1/2" box with another 1/4" or 1/2" layer; lap back over the joints (-; (-;
I never cut both sides at the same time/exactly the same, always leave one side "big"; then I come back and router or belt sand it flush.
* The 1/2" is not bad, I'm sure you could park a car on the folded boxes; the thing is...you can't really save any $$ using 1/2", they cost about the same.
**You can come back and re-wrap a 1/2" box with another 1/4" or 1/2" layer; lap back over the joints (-; (-;
Moving the port to the side?
This would reduce the center line a few inches...yes?
I'd like to build the straight box/straight port, could fit in PU, or in joist/rafters.
This would reduce the center line a few inches...yes?
I'd like to build the straight box/straight port, could fit in PU, or in joist/rafters.
Hi ODougbo,
How about mounting both drivers from the S1/S2 side, and moving the access plate to that side too?
Regards,
Here's and idea...save some time in the long run. I really like how 4 drivers sound together, so might as well build a "double" at the same time, sharing the bottom panel.
The OD of the box would 20-1/2" laying down on the side, using 1/2" wood
[I did run to local HD and picked up 1/2"]
The questing being...how long to make the divider piece? [shown right side of box]
The OD of the box would 20-1/2" laying down on the side, using 1/2" wood
[I did run to local HD and picked up 1/2"]
The questing being...how long to make the divider piece? [shown right side of box]
Attachments
The easiest way is to cut one side - 11" x 50.5". from there just lay 8" rips as shown.
I don't see this taking that long to build.
Since I'm doubling, I may run out of full length pieces for top and bottom, may have to splice a couple together.
I took one of the left over side x side 1/2" boxes in the shop....geee wizz, great bass.
I don't see this taking that long to build.
Since I'm doubling, I may run out of full length pieces for top and bottom, may have to splice a couple together.
I took one of the left over side x side 1/2" boxes in the shop....geee wizz, great bass.
Hi ODougbo,
Post #88: "... port to the side? This would reduce the center line a few inches...yes?..."
From the drawing (using soho54's corner method for the centerline): straight out the bottom(?)= 8.554", 90° bend out the top(?)= 8.1467", difference = 0.4073". The boundary conditions will probably have more impact than that.
Post #89: "...how long to make the divider piece? ..."
I would just add the little corner reflector as in the attached drawing, and then whatever divider pieces to reinforce the box.
Well, got to run. Regards,
Post #88: "... port to the side? This would reduce the center line a few inches...yes?..."
From the drawing (using soho54's corner method for the centerline): straight out the bottom(?)= 8.554", 90° bend out the top(?)= 8.1467", difference = 0.4073". The boundary conditions will probably have more impact than that.
Post #89: "...how long to make the divider piece? ..."
I would just add the little corner reflector as in the attached drawing, and then whatever divider pieces to reinforce the box.
Well, got to run. Regards,
Attachments
I didn't start the big build yet, but I got bored today and made a really simple POC box out of 1/2 OSB I had laying around. Simply for test purposes.
Right now I have a fairly decent surround system in my secondary home theater room. I built the front soundbar out of tang and band 3" drivers and I must admit..it sounds fantastic. The previous owners of my house for some reason left a bose acoustamas subwoofer in the basement, so I brought that upstairs for comparison purposes. Bose has dual 5.25's.
The enclosure: .75 ft3 tuned to 35 hz with dual 1 1/4" ports 6" long. Single driver
Amplifier = dayton audio APA150
Clearly, and i mean it wasn't close. The single 6.5 in the crude, but solid, enclosure was the winner. It sounded very good and blended well with my mains. Punchy, quick and deep sound.
I can't wait to build the big TQWT with a pair!!
Right now I have a fairly decent surround system in my secondary home theater room. I built the front soundbar out of tang and band 3" drivers and I must admit..it sounds fantastic. The previous owners of my house for some reason left a bose acoustamas subwoofer in the basement, so I brought that upstairs for comparison purposes. Bose has dual 5.25's.
The enclosure: .75 ft3 tuned to 35 hz with dual 1 1/4" ports 6" long. Single driver
Amplifier = dayton audio APA150
Clearly, and i mean it wasn't close. The single 6.5 in the crude, but solid, enclosure was the winner. It sounded very good and blended well with my mains. Punchy, quick and deep sound.
I can't wait to build the big TQWT with a pair!!
NEOREVOLIV BOX
Need some motivation? I didn't work on it that long yesterday, although I think it is over 50% finished.
Random building tips:
> Reduced the rabbit cut for the flipped woofer, for a better fit.
> I had to extend two pieces of the 8" "rips, you can see it in the pic. I used a 1/2" shiplap joint; after all MDF is 90% glue anyway.
> Used epoxy and coat hanger wire for the fish cooker grills.
> The angle cut is 3 degrees, but that might be a bit much.
Might turn the box upright and place it on 6" blocks, that would extend the "center line" (I guess)
OR...what I could have done with this double, I could have blanked the end and cut a square port on one of the sides.....OR two smaller "port holes" on both sides. The good thing here though, I can get to the woofers, with out an access door.
What do they sound like?...nothing like a 6.5 woofer
Need some motivation? I didn't work on it that long yesterday, although I think it is over 50% finished.
Random building tips:
> Reduced the rabbit cut for the flipped woofer, for a better fit.
> I had to extend two pieces of the 8" "rips, you can see it in the pic. I used a 1/2" shiplap joint; after all MDF is 90% glue anyway.
> Used epoxy and coat hanger wire for the fish cooker grills.
> The angle cut is 3 degrees, but that might be a bit much.
Might turn the box upright and place it on 6" blocks, that would extend the "center line" (I guess)
OR...what I could have done with this double, I could have blanked the end and cut a square port on one of the sides.....OR two smaller "port holes" on both sides. The good thing here though, I can get to the woofers, with out an access door.
What do they sound like?...nothing like a 6.5 woofer

Attachments
Hi ODougbo,
You asked in the other thread about bracing, basically this is a relatively narrow enclosure with two divider boards, which makes it quite well braced. But you can always add more 🙂. If you add too much wood you may have to increase the box size to make up for it, at the indicated level i think you'll be fine. Natrurally, the best bracing is 3/4" baltic birch plywood for all components. 🙂 But that might be a bit of overkill. I'll just attach some notes on bracing, filling and missing dimensions.
Regards,
You asked in the other thread about bracing, basically this is a relatively narrow enclosure with two divider boards, which makes it quite well braced. But you can always add more 🙂. If you add too much wood you may have to increase the box size to make up for it, at the indicated level i think you'll be fine. Natrurally, the best bracing is 3/4" baltic birch plywood for all components. 🙂 But that might be a bit of overkill. I'll just attach some notes on bracing, filling and missing dimensions.
Regards,
Attachments
Believe it not..I was thinking along the same lines...except, the BB plywood. I think there is plenty of volume, compared to Neo's box.
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