I've been thinking about buying WE 300B, but I sure hope it doesn't sound as you describe: "creamy, relaxed and refined." I prefer extremely clear, detailed, dense, and dynamic sound..
his is currently a work in progress so please be patient. I also have a pretty bad Essential Tremor when working on small precise stuff so I probably isn't going to be too pretty. So far though everything has been going pretty well.
The first thing I did was paint the top plate a dark cherry. I then painted the bell cap, and the 2 PC-5 transformers. They were suppose to be more blue but for some reason the paint I used ended up looking really green. So now my Kaiju is Christmas themed. Then I glued together the wooden frame and stained it dark Walnut
![[IMG]](https://i.imgur.com/suJY02E.jpg?1 "[IMG]")
Here is a picture of the fully assembled back before you start wiring. Putting the Transformers on by yourself is kind of a pain in a ***.Not sure why my photo is upside down.
![[IMG]](https://i.imgur.com/6YNDOAd.jpg?1 "[IMG]")
![[IMG]](https://imgur.com/6YNDOAd "[IMG]")
First problem occurred right at the first test to check the incoming voltage. I apparently was a little overzealous when removing the outer sheathing on the wire and had snapped on of the solid core wires internally. So I had to replace the whole section connected to the IEC.
![[IMG]](https://i.imgur.com/2qkoIBZ.jpg "[IMG]")
I thought I had taken a photo of the PT-9 to send power to the tube sockets after wiring it up to work with the 122V I measured coming in on the previous step. Either way after they had me test the connection on the PT-9 they had me put the tuibes in to do a glow test to make sure the power was flowing to the tubes.
![[IMG]](https://i.imgur.com/japs1oo.jpg "[IMG]")
You may not like it but this is what peak wiring looks like. Only the greatest electricians can hope to wire this well.
Second screw up. While trying to remove the outer sheath on this cable I bumped my elbow and cut a full 1.5" off the end. I didn't have enough of the wire left to make a piece long enough so I had to splice and solder a short piece to the end of the cable I chopped short. Then to make maters worse I had soldered and trimmed the other end of the wire to the wrong connectors on the pot. So I had to de-solder that and the one wire wouldn't reach to the lug it was actually suppose to go to so I had the splice another piece of wire to the other end of originally to short wire.
![[IMG]](https://i.imgur.com/LbfLlNZ.jpg "[IMG]")
Besides the 2 screw ups everything else has been going smoothly. So far my tremor hasn't been to much of a hassle on the build. Though, I start working on the C4S boards tomorrow which is where I imagine most of my struggle will be. I will post more photos of the build tomorrow when I take more picture.
The first thing I did was paint the top plate a dark cherry. I then painted the bell cap, and the 2 PC-5 transformers. They were suppose to be more blue but for some reason the paint I used ended up looking really green. So now my Kaiju is Christmas themed. Then I glued together the wooden frame and stained it dark Walnut
Here is a picture of the fully assembled back before you start wiring. Putting the Transformers on by yourself is kind of a pain in a ***.Not sure why my photo is upside down.
First problem occurred right at the first test to check the incoming voltage. I apparently was a little overzealous when removing the outer sheathing on the wire and had snapped on of the solid core wires internally. So I had to replace the whole section connected to the IEC.
I thought I had taken a photo of the PT-9 to send power to the tube sockets after wiring it up to work with the 122V I measured coming in on the previous step. Either way after they had me test the connection on the PT-9 they had me put the tuibes in to do a glow test to make sure the power was flowing to the tubes.
You may not like it but this is what peak wiring looks like. Only the greatest electricians can hope to wire this well.
Second screw up. While trying to remove the outer sheath on this cable I bumped my elbow and cut a full 1.5" off the end. I didn't have enough of the wire left to make a piece long enough so I had to splice and solder a short piece to the end of the cable I chopped short. Then to make maters worse I had soldered and trimmed the other end of the wire to the wrong connectors on the pot. So I had to de-solder that and the one wire wouldn't reach to the lug it was actually suppose to go to so I had the splice another piece of wire to the other end of originally to short wire.
Besides the 2 screw ups everything else has been going smoothly. So far my tremor hasn't been to much of a hassle on the build. Though, I start working on the C4S boards tomorrow which is where I imagine most of my struggle will be. I will post more photos of the build tomorrow when I take more picture.
Please stop hoping and look for Elrog 300B instead. I‘m in your camp with your sound preferences and after quite some route including Linlai Elite and Takatsuki I‘m at the end of my journey with the Elrogs. They are indeed clear, detailed, dense and over all dynamic with a great sense of drive.
I'm using Takatsuki 300B now. In what ways does Elrog 300B sound different from Takatsuki? I've always been curious about how WE 300B sounds, but one has to stop pouring money down the 300B drain at some point..
An investment in some heat-shrink tubing might neaten things up a bit. Is the above post in the correct thread?his is currently a work in progress so please be patient. I also have a pretty bad Essential Tremor when working on small precise stuff so I probably isn't going to be too pretty. So far though everything has been going pretty well.
The first thing I did was paint the top plate a dark cherry. I then painted the bell cap, and the 2 PC-5 transformers. They were suppose to be more blue but for some reason the paint I used ended up looking really green. So now my Kaiju is Christmas themed. Then I glued together the wooden frame and stained it dark Walnut
Here is a picture of the fully assembled back before you start wiring. Putting the Transformers on by yourself is kind of a pain in a ***.Not sure why my photo is upside down.
First problem occurred right at the first test to check the incoming voltage. I apparently was a little overzealous when removing the outer sheathing on the wire and had snapped on of the solid core wires internally. So I had to replace the whole section connected to the IEC.
I thought I had taken a photo of the PT-9 to send power to the tube sockets after wiring it up to work with the 122V I measured coming in on the previous step. Either way after they had me test the connection on the PT-9 they had me put the tuibes in to do a glow test to make sure the power was flowing to the tubes.
You may not like it but this is what peak wiring looks like. Only the greatest electricians can hope to wire this well.
Second screw up. While trying to remove the outer sheath on this cable I bumped my elbow and cut a full 1.5" off the end. I didn't have enough of the wire left to make a piece long enough so I had to splice and solder a short piece to the end of the cable I chopped short. Then to make maters worse I had soldered and trimmed the other end of the wire to the wrong connectors on the pot. So I had to de-solder that and the one wire wouldn't reach to the lug it was actually suppose to go to so I had the splice another piece of wire to the other end of originally to short wire.
Besides the 2 screw ups everything else has been going smoothly. So far my tremor hasn't been to much of a hassle on the build. Though, I start working on the C4S boards tomorrow which is where I imagine most of my struggle will be. I will post more photos of the build tomorrow when I take more picture.
Takatsuki is really good at projecting a 3D soundstage and has a very extended and airy top end to my ears. The Elrog 300B is just a tad darker and a bit more dense, but has a much, much better sense of rhythm and pace than the Taks. Music just comes to life with them, whereas it was beautiful but a bit boring with the Takatsuki.
My seven-year-old son was singing and dancing to Mark Knopfler immediately after swapping in the Elrogs after the Takatsuki. His first comment was „wow, that is a great atmosphere“.
A quite good comment on head-fi I‘ve read once compared the Taks being like Sprite and the Elrogs like Coca-Cola. That is a bit simple approach of course, but hits the nail quite nicely.
My seven-year-old son was singing and dancing to Mark Knopfler immediately after swapping in the Elrogs after the Takatsuki. His first comment was „wow, that is a great atmosphere“.
A quite good comment on head-fi I‘ve read once compared the Taks being like Sprite and the Elrogs like Coca-Cola. That is a bit simple approach of course, but hits the nail quite nicely.
Don't forget, that Elrog has thoriated tungsten filament.
These type tubes usually have special tone, which is somewhat different from "mainstream" sounding.
These type tubes usually have special tone, which is somewhat different from "mainstream" sounding.
That was holding me back buying the Elrog 300B for quite some time honestly. Leaving the „classic“ 300B road felt wrong. But now I feel like having found everything I was hoping for soundwise so no looking back for me.
And the thoriated tungsten filaments are glowing just amazingly on my self-built Allen Wright DPA-300B monoblocks…
And the thoriated tungsten filaments are glowing just amazingly on my self-built Allen Wright DPA-300B monoblocks…
Yes, they are the standard type. The moly plates were too expensive for me on first sight. Well, maybe some time later it becomes itchy again to change something for the „better“. But for now I‘m just enjoying what I have got with the standard ER300B.
Yeah, I wasn't sure if this was the right place to post. Not really sure where the right place would be. I will probably end up buying new cable since it is only $0.25 per foot.
Do Elrogs still have the reliability issues? Do they come with any type of warranty?
Part 2:
Today I started with wiring up the 9-pin sockets on the board. It went well. Even with my shake. The directions were easy to follow and understand. I accidentally touched the plastic stand offs with the soldering iron. Just need to flatten the top and everything should be fine.
![[IMG]](https://i.imgur.com/cSM2Qgt.jpg "[IMG]")
After the 9-pin I soldered on some caps and finished connecting the 4-pin tube sockets.
![[IMG]](https://i.imgur.com/ej7YHlX.jpg "[IMG]")
I then added some connections between boards and caps. With that, the majority of the soldering on the panel is done.
![[IMG]](https://i.imgur.com/KfnCmNx.jpg "[IMG]")
Now to start on the C4S board. The first thing I had to do was physically connect some resistors and a small potentiometer.
![[IMG]](https://i.imgur.com/Wpew3OE.jpg "[IMG]")
Next, I had to solder all the resistors to the board. The real MVP for helping me solder was the little clam I used to hold the board in place. With the clam I was able to better steady my hands while soldering. This is the one I used. I highly recommend buying one if you are going to be doing small precise soldering. It is only $10 and 100% worth it. https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01902-...b+holder+for+soldering&qid=1676692928&sr=8-33
![[IMG]](https://i.imgur.com/U06h2Fq.jpg "[IMG]")
Added more to the board.
![[IMG]](https://i.imgur.com/gPwvWq5.jpg "[IMG]")
Soldered what I added. I am waiting for my smaller wire snipers to arrive so I can trim the ends closer to the board. Was suppose to get here today but UPS decided it was too cold to deliver to my farm.
![[IMG]](https://i.imgur.com/163pVoi.jpg "[IMG]")
The final addition of parts to the board.
![[IMG]](https://i.imgur.com/dsUOSGX.jpg "[IMG]")
The final solder of parts to the board.
![[IMG]](https://i.imgur.com/uhxPBL7.jpg "[IMG]")
Second board same as the first. All-in-all it took me about 2.5 hours to build both boards. So not to bad.
![[IMG]](https://i.imgur.com/RcXM1UP.jpg "[IMG]")
All I have left is to connect the boards to the plate then wire to match the ohms my speakers are. So the next update should be the last. Until I add the DC upgrade.
Today I started with wiring up the 9-pin sockets on the board. It went well. Even with my shake. The directions were easy to follow and understand. I accidentally touched the plastic stand offs with the soldering iron. Just need to flatten the top and everything should be fine.
After the 9-pin I soldered on some caps and finished connecting the 4-pin tube sockets.
I then added some connections between boards and caps. With that, the majority of the soldering on the panel is done.
Now to start on the C4S board. The first thing I had to do was physically connect some resistors and a small potentiometer.
Next, I had to solder all the resistors to the board. The real MVP for helping me solder was the little clam I used to hold the board in place. With the clam I was able to better steady my hands while soldering. This is the one I used. I highly recommend buying one if you are going to be doing small precise soldering. It is only $10 and 100% worth it. https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01902-...b+holder+for+soldering&qid=1676692928&sr=8-33
Added more to the board.
Soldered what I added. I am waiting for my smaller wire snipers to arrive so I can trim the ends closer to the board. Was suppose to get here today but UPS decided it was too cold to deliver to my farm.
The final addition of parts to the board.
The final solder of parts to the board.
Second board same as the first. All-in-all it took me about 2.5 hours to build both boards. So not to bad.
All I have left is to connect the boards to the plate then wire to match the ohms my speakers are. So the next update should be the last. Until I add the DC upgrade.
Nice build looks like a production unit,lways wanted to build a set of those but was put off by the low gain, how do you bias the 300B's.
When money is a concern, you may want to calculate $/Hr of playtime for each candidate tube. Depending on operating conditions tube life will vary also. Dont forget to factor that in. For example, a current production Western Electric 300B has a life expectancy of 40,000 hours!...but that is at a particular operating point and set of conditions. [Yes, they will last this long. They always have. Blackburn EL34 will last 30 to 40 thousand in playback equipment too. WE is making the real-deal.]
All that said, I think you will find the WE the cheapest per hour of listening, and by a decent margin in spite of being $500.00 over your $1k target. The second cheapest is also a tube of musical splendors, the JJ 300B. The upfront cost is lower. The life is not 40k, but eight-to-ten-K is not bad and they do sound like real instruments.
I suggest you pick between these two. Enjoy your Amp!
All that said, I think you will find the WE the cheapest per hour of listening, and by a decent margin in spite of being $500.00 over your $1k target. The second cheapest is also a tube of musical splendors, the JJ 300B. The upfront cost is lower. The life is not 40k, but eight-to-ten-K is not bad and they do sound like real instruments.
I suggest you pick between these two. Enjoy your Amp!
Rod, whave you had the chance to compare the standard ones with the mesh and the XLS types (regarding SQ)? I have been tempted to buy a pair of EMLs, and the XL would last longer. About the mesh type I have not found much feedback from users.
Any comments on the 2A3-40?
The standard type fits my operating point perfectly, so I have not tried the other types.
I have never been interested in the 2A3-40, simply because even its own manufacturer posts such poor triode curves.
See below: even at 400V, the ra is shifting, and the grid is losing control. This looks more like an indirectly-heated triode. This effect limits the usable operating voltage - and what's the purpose of a 40W rating if you can't use high voltage?
2A3-40 JJ
I have never been interested in the 2A3-40, simply because even its own manufacturer posts such poor triode curves.
See below: even at 400V, the ra is shifting, and the grid is losing control. This looks more like an indirectly-heated triode. This effect limits the usable operating voltage - and what's the purpose of a 40W rating if you can't use high voltage?
2A3-40 JJ