Druidique : Google Image Result
Druid - Wikipedia
Dolmen: Dolmen - Wikipedia
Stakanovist: relative to Alexey Stakhanov ( wikipedia won't let me copy the link!)
LR12:
Amazon.fr
😀
Druid - Wikipedia
Dolmen: Dolmen - Wikipedia
Stakanovist: relative to Alexey Stakhanov ( wikipedia won't let me copy the link!)
LR12:
Amazon.fr
😀
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LR12 = 12 dB/octave Linkwitz-Riley filter (i.e. 2nd order, sometimes called LR2)
The rest ... ???
The rest ... ???
my bad, a lot of typo cause writen on a smartphone with gale's fingers, but I can help: 
Dolmen : Dolmen - Wikipedia
Druidique : Druidic (english translation)
LR12 : Linkwitz Riley 12 dB (second order) filter (in french filter literature it is often worded like that : LR12 (for english LR2), LR24, BUT6, BUT18, etc
Sthakanoviste : sort of three workers in one : Stakhanovite movement - Wikipedia from Alexï Sthakanov, soviet propaganda, a myth yet.
Before you ask :
Panoramix : french Druid who made a magic force beverage in the french comic : Asterix et Obelix (de Homard, par tout à Bisque* -*: Fisch Soap God)
Menhir : Menhir - Wikipedia
Sorry for the digress
Edit: Krivium firered first... par Toutatis* : indeed A LR12 is a small pink rabitt that last long (* old celtic god, in the Asterix & Obelix comic, all the characters are saying that all the day like a "Oh my Gosh, OMG, etc )
Dolmen : Dolmen - Wikipedia
Druidique : Druidic (english translation)
LR12 : Linkwitz Riley 12 dB (second order) filter (in french filter literature it is often worded like that : LR12 (for english LR2), LR24, BUT6, BUT18, etc
Sthakanoviste : sort of three workers in one : Stakhanovite movement - Wikipedia from Alexï Sthakanov, soviet propaganda, a myth yet.
Before you ask :
Panoramix : french Druid who made a magic force beverage in the french comic : Asterix et Obelix (de Homard, par tout à Bisque* -*: Fisch Soap God)
Menhir : Menhir - Wikipedia
Sorry for the digress
Edit: Krivium firered first... par Toutatis* : indeed A LR12 is a small pink rabitt that last long (* old celtic god, in the Asterix & Obelix comic, all the characters are saying that all the day like a "Oh my Gosh, OMG, etc )
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🙂 Thanks you!
To keep kost down you could go for drivers from reputed OEM manufacturers Taiwan, Thailand, Germany etc. Instead of brand names.
Cheers!
To keep kost down you could go for drivers from reputed OEM manufacturers Taiwan, Thailand, Germany etc. Instead of brand names.
Cheers!
As the Purifi is a paper cone, maybe the Satori TX material has more details thanthe Purifi ? Noise floor level is not all ! HifiJim said Tx sounds natural... as detailled as the aluminium/ceramic serie but more natural !
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You got it wrong for LR12! Mine is the one! Omg...Par Belenos! ( french god too!)... i wished something stupid, googled it and here we are! 😀
Didn't know a cell like that existed.
Didn't know a cell like that existed.
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and here we are : the big task as said the op is around the drivers : find the corect load, amont of stuffing, shape cabinet you can afford or able to do : RD is expensive for not rich diyers.
WHen I look at Paul Carmody pages, I admire what can be done with cheap loudspeakers drivers : the how to is more in the expert brain than all in the drivers price indeed like we like to talk about... most of the time (lesser and lesser true as people talk more and more about filters, cabinet shape, DSP, etc). But why not buy the best yiu can afford ? I have no problem with that, everybody does what he wants from his hardly saved monney : freedom.
WHen I look at Paul Carmody pages, I admire what can be done with cheap loudspeakers drivers : the how to is more in the expert brain than all in the drivers price indeed like we like to talk about... most of the time (lesser and lesser true as people talk more and more about filters, cabinet shape, DSP, etc). But why not buy the best yiu can afford ? I have no problem with that, everybody does what he wants from his hardly saved monney : freedom.
It wouldn't surprise me, that after you boil down the goals / requirements... you end up with a speaker with the same spec as at least 6 existing DIY designs.
You then have to decide why offer a 7th. Maybe those designs are stale using NLA drivers etc...
Conversely - look at what is the most popular (if that can be gauged) reference DIY design... and reverse engineer the aspects that made it so successful. See if they match your requirements / goals and then decide what the differentiator is with a new design.
You then have to decide why offer a 7th. Maybe those designs are stale using NLA drivers etc...
Conversely - look at what is the most popular (if that can be gauged) reference DIY design... and reverse engineer the aspects that made it so successful. See if they match your requirements / goals and then decide what the differentiator is with a new design.
Very true, Dave.
If someone wants to start a project and learn from it, they should follow the example of vineethkumar01 in his thread A 3 way design study He is soliciting guidance, asking questions, and learning a lot. I think we are all learning a lot.
If there is a real, honest interest in doing an 8-4-1 3-way speaker, I am willing to help. I am assuming the purpose is both to learn the design process and to build something musical and accurate.
I can start by showing how simulation software works, and how simulations guide the process.
The person who is building the speaker will need to buy the drivers, the cabinet material, and either buy or borrow the necessary test equipment: microphone, mic stand, 2 channel audio interface, REW or ARTA software, and the tools to make impedance measurements. I am only interested if we can make the full collection of polar response measurements needed to make VituixCad go.
Once we get started, I am certain there will be expert guidance coming from the many folks on this site who are truly experts. But nothing will happen until we get started.
j.
If someone wants to start a project and learn from it, they should follow the example of vineethkumar01 in his thread A 3 way design study He is soliciting guidance, asking questions, and learning a lot. I think we are all learning a lot.
If there is a real, honest interest in doing an 8-4-1 3-way speaker, I am willing to help. I am assuming the purpose is both to learn the design process and to build something musical and accurate.
I can start by showing how simulation software works, and how simulations guide the process.
The person who is building the speaker will need to buy the drivers, the cabinet material, and either buy or borrow the necessary test equipment: microphone, mic stand, 2 channel audio interface, REW or ARTA software, and the tools to make impedance measurements. I am only interested if we can make the full collection of polar response measurements needed to make VituixCad go.
Once we get started, I am certain there will be expert guidance coming from the many folks on this site who are truly experts. But nothing will happen until we get started.
j.
Folks are og coarse free to chose which ever drivers they wish, but then it wont be a "reference"
Cheers!
Cheers!
Since you got a subwoofer, why not go for the smaller SATORI 7.5" MW19TX-8 TeXtreme Cone Woofer instead of the WO24P. The timbre of the woofer will match the MW13 midrange better too.
The MW13 is limited to about 3k while the RAAL likes to operate above 5K. So you might have to choose another tweeter. SB's folded ribbon (Satori AT60NC) is also effective only above 5K. The TW28TXN, however, is a good choice.
Exactly, but I find nothing wrong with "stale" drivers. For example, the Troels design linked below uses what one would consider as "safe" drivers.
SEAS-3-Way-Classic-mkII
Satori TX are mediocre woofers, but better mids. WO is proper woofer. Depend on SPL requirement one can use different combination WO+13TX+TW29 or 2xWO+16TX/19TX+TW29.
That Why I mention before that this shouldn't be just an other speaker design.
One of the goals is to learn firt hand the different posible topologies.
low order / high order XO . Serial / parallel. time-alignment, wide/narrow baffle.
For all those topologies you can find a good design. But building them all for educational purpose? Hence 1 set of drivers to keep the cost low.
You mean for all those topologies you can find someone who will say it's the best they've heard in some way. Even though sometimes it's luck, sometimes one is easy to get wrong but there's actually nothing wrong with it when you get it right, sometimes there's no difference except the skill level of the builder..
..and sometimes the differences are completely unrelated to the apparent changes being tested.
Not THE BEST but best under the given circumstances.
Like HifiJim said . "I am assuming the purpose is both to learn the design process and to build something musical and accurate."
I'd say I've not made my point properly, that's OK. Go ahead, building them all is the best way. It's just that it isn't always the same as comparing different flavours of ice cream.
One set of drivers and making "all" kind of speakers using them is bad idea in my opinion. Actual project will never start. I would use reasonable prized drivers that are chosen to be good in that kind of speaker what is under work. Tmuikku has trying to tell over and over again with no result. MrHifiTunes, you should start one version and discuss very thoroughly why every detail is done. Then next one changing drivers if needed. etc. Now you are asking unrealistic jumpstart to understand "everything". After you are quite good you can do what you are asking. In that phase I guess you are not interested any more, unless that kind of thing is your special thing.
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