We should not spend too many words on the ancestor in this thread, but first get a comprehensive picture of the current situation and circuit. The considerably higher operating voltage alone, in conjunction with the (I'll just say this now, even if it's not entirely correct) level shifter for the TIP35/36, must have resulted in changes to the component dimensioning. At the same time, the parallel voltage regulator (shunt) of the TL084 of that time seems to have been replaced by fixed-voltage regulators ..! A µC and motor potentiometer inserted.
and so on.
and so on.
No, it was just a joke. It meant that while you guys look for MF-A1 in the antique shops, keep your eyes open for that ugly Kraken amp because I want one 🙂Does this mean that the gizmo is a bad copy, a plagiarism of the MF-A1?
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😳applying copious amounts of the heatsink paste
Please note that I've never, repeat never, put more than a thin film of thermal grease onto a heaatsink surface. 😉
Yes, for sure. 🙂things would have been way better with vertical heatsink fins.
Really?We should not spend too many words on the ancestor in this thread
Would never have thought to say my creations can look better than stuff made by a manufacturer.No, it was just a joke. It meant that while you guys look for MF-A1 in the antique shops, keep your eyes open for that ugly Kraken amp because I want one 🙂
The Hammerschlag-Lack and Hutmutter both are pretty retro but the fuse holder on the front cover is a big nono! What about the heatsink fins orientation and the wrongly placed feet?! Probably built while the alchemist was brewing and consuming a heavy potion.
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The styling is genius and the only reason I want one 🙂 I'm not surprised that German is not thrilled with an obvious lack of purity of that design ha ha ..
The top box is a separate PSU which normally is placed elsewhere.
The top box is a separate PSU which normally is placed elsewhere.
Yes - everything revolves around the current version, the changes compared to the ancestor.Really?
Maybe I was a bit too restrained, but I like the sound of the new Flounder - I am not dissatisfied with it. After two days at the latest, my hearing got used to the enriched sound. What remains is the knowledge of the sound spectrum and behavior of the heating plate. So you don't necessarily have to reach for a soldering iron and other tools to be happy with the new one.
Only the stupid, super-bright blue LEDs are a nogo. The PowerOn illumination simply destroys everything. It will soon be the first to go.
kind regards,
HBt.
Please let's stick to the A1 and its current circuitry and layout /only.
Hammering ("Hammerschlagende Grüße") greetings,
HBt.
🔨
Hammering ("Hammerschlagende Grüße") greetings,
HBt.
🔨
My apology. After glowing reviews of MF A1 from vintage forums I was about to buy one in need of repair. Only to learn that the bloody thing is almost impossible to repair and maintain.
Usually they aren’t difficult to repair or maintain. They run hot and eventually the heatsink compound dries out, but you can clean and redo it every 5 yrs or so. If you are worried about the heat, a low noise fan placed on top of the heatsink works wonders.
We should not spend too many words on the ancestor in this thread
Really?
Yes - everything revolves around the current version, the changes compared to the ancestor.
Hence, according to your desires, none of us could make a different reference from what you want?Please let's stick to the A1 and its current circuitry and layout /only.
Normally, we share experiences, ideas and point of view.
So please, get it over! 😉
Yes, thank you Bonsai for your appreciated reminder.They run hot and eventually the heatsink compound dries out, but you can clean and redo it every 5 yrs or so.
However, I guess @jean-paul wanted to joke a bit with me... 🙂
Yes, of course you know to apply a thin layer. Still the way things are done and the large area makes things messy quickly.
They are dogs to repair as many laymen accept errors and wait. When it breaks down “catastrophic style” (usual way) many things will need attention and/or replacement. Source switch and volume potentiometer, all large caps, power transistors…. Woofers… This every 5 years when one is lucky.
Quite a few Chinese class D amplifiers are more reliable, cheaper, sound very good and they usually don’t eat woofers 😀
They are dogs to repair as many laymen accept errors and wait. When it breaks down “catastrophic style” (usual way) many things will need attention and/or replacement. Source switch and volume potentiometer, all large caps, power transistors…. Woofers… This every 5 years when one is lucky.
Quite a few Chinese class D amplifiers are more reliable, cheaper, sound very good and they usually don’t eat woofers 😀
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That is right but one needs to learn to appreciate that. An acquired taste.
That is right but one needs to learn to appreciate that. An acquired taste.
And it takes years and years of experiences...
Maybe when not even one was yet an audiophile he started with an English car or bike! 😛
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