2023 Musical Fidelity A1

We should not spend too many words on the ancestor in this thread, but first get a comprehensive picture of the current situation and circuit. The considerably higher operating voltage alone, in conjunction with the (I'll just say this now, even if it's not entirely correct) level shifter for the TIP35/36, must have resulted in changes to the component dimensioning. At the same time, the parallel voltage regulator (shunt) of the TL084 of that time seems to have been replaced by fixed-voltage regulators ..! A µC and motor potentiometer inserted.

and so on.
 
Does this mean that the gizmo is a bad copy, a plagiarism of the MF-A1?
No, it was just a joke. It meant that while you guys look for MF-A1 in the antique shops, keep your eyes open for that ugly Kraken amp because I want one 🙂
 

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No, it was just a joke. It meant that while you guys look for MF-A1 in the antique shops, keep your eyes open for that ugly Kraken amp because I want one 🙂
Would never have thought to say my creations can look better than stuff made by a manufacturer.

The Hammerschlag-Lack and Hutmutter both are pretty retro but the fuse holder on the front cover is a big nono! What about the heatsink fins orientation and the wrongly placed feet?! Probably built while the alchemist was brewing and consuming a heavy potion.
 
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Yes - everything revolves around the current version, the changes compared to the ancestor.

Maybe I was a bit too restrained, but I like the sound of the new Flounder - I am not dissatisfied with it. After two days at the latest, my hearing got used to the enriched sound. What remains is the knowledge of the sound spectrum and behavior of the heating plate. So you don't necessarily have to reach for a soldering iron and other tools to be happy with the new one.



Only the stupid, super-bright blue LEDs are a nogo. The PowerOn illumination simply destroys everything. It will soon be the first to go.


kind regards,
HBt.
 
Usually they aren’t difficult to repair or maintain. They run hot and eventually the heatsink compound dries out, but you can clean and redo it every 5 yrs or so. If you are worried about the heat, a low noise fan placed on top of the heatsink works wonders.
 
We should not spend too many words on the ancestor in this thread
Yes - everything revolves around the current version, the changes compared to the ancestor.
Please let's stick to the A1 and its current circuitry and layout /only.
Hence, according to your desires, none of us could make a different reference from what you want?

Normally, we share experiences, ideas and point of view.

So please, get it over! 😉
 
Yes, of course you know to apply a thin layer. Still the way things are done and the large area makes things messy quickly.

They are dogs to repair as many laymen accept errors and wait. When it breaks down “catastrophic style” (usual way) many things will need attention and/or replacement. Source switch and volume potentiometer, all large caps, power transistors…. Woofers… This every 5 years when one is lucky.

Quite a few Chinese class D amplifiers are more reliable, cheaper, sound very good and they usually don’t eat woofers 😀
 
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Some notable improvements compared to the old one (like a protection circuit) but why repeat the mistakes of the past, this thing will slowly cook all its internal elements and we are talking about the price? all this neo retro stuff is getting on my nerves.
 
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