I regret no to have bought one pair of the RS28F... hardly beatable for the price !
That's true than making the bandwidtj a little downing from the bass to the treble can help but not totally a tweeter replacment though... All is about the age of the ears... after 50, it works not as fine as when having 20 as a technic !
That's true than making the bandwidtj a little downing from the bass to the treble can help but not totally a tweeter replacment though... All is about the age of the ears... after 50, it works not as fine as when having 20 as a technic !
I am tempted to try a quick and dirty short of the padding resistor as I can delve in there easy enough and clip a wire over R1. Would be much quicker than removing and resoldering.
I have a lot of room gain by all accounts and I am intrigued to try without and padding.
Do I need to worry about R2 aswell?
I have a lot of room gain by all accounts and I am intrigued to try without and padding.
Do I need to worry about R2 aswell?
You could add another 4.7ohm in parallel for effective 2.5ohm at R1 and about 5.5ohm overalll tweeter impedance. If you short it you will get full sensitivity. Plus apparent 3ohm impedance which isn’t the best for some amplifiers. Full sensitivity is 85dB so bass will sound about 3dB weaker than now as overall sensitivity is 82.5dB after baffle step loss on woofer. For trial and error testing I suggest keeping XO outside and use Wago connectors. Is XO a PCB or P2P?
To be clear, here is what I am suggesting:
To be clear, here is what I am suggesting:
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Hello,
I built a pair this spring with filter as in post #944 https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/273524-10f-8424-rs225-8-fast-waw-ref-monitor-95.html#post5305534
Recently I sealed the front with wood glue and applied a couple of layers of matte clear coat.
I was a bit sloppy when calculating/translating the part cutouts for 18mm ply, so I got only ~5mm on each side of the rs255. But I'm very happy with the result!
I built a pair this spring with filter as in post #944 https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/273524-10f-8424-rs225-8-fast-waw-ref-monitor-95.html#post5305534
Recently I sealed the front with wood glue and applied a couple of layers of matte clear coat.
I was a bit sloppy when calculating/translating the part cutouts for 18mm ply, so I got only ~5mm on each side of the rs255. But I'm very happy with the result!
Finally had some time to do this project, inspired by X design with some mods.
Drivers are SS 10F-8424G00 and SBA SB23NRXS45.
FR cone is 0.6 liter which brings 10F-8424G00 Fb to around 185hz, I also went with a larger vented cabinet tuned to 35Hz.
No passive crossover yet, crossed by miniDSP at 700Hz, runs by my Alpha 20 for HF and FH9 for LF.
The first measurement is included in attachment, no EQs are used.
Overall I m very happy with this build, just listening to it for past 2 days, so it still need time to burn in, but very detailed separated sound, very smooth and soft vocals, great imaging.
Aatto, those enclosures for the 10F look clever with the reverse taper, is that your invention?
I used a wad of polyfill approximately the volume of 2 to 3 size 5 soccer (futbol) balls, loosely teased. Install it from the closed end around the sports cone all the way to the first 180deg turn. Perhaps denser towards the closed end and looser towards the turn. Leave some room around the woofer so that it can breathe. It is easy to adjust by reaching in and adding/removing some. The best way to adjust is to measure the impedance sweep and add enough to make the two peaks start to flatten out but not so much that you don't hear enough bass. The sweep lets you adjust so that both speakers are balanced. It's not a big deal, adjust to taste by ear. But the 2-3 soccer balls of volume is a good place to start.
Your build looks nice, good luck! You will really enjoy them when they are done.
Your build looks nice, good luck! You will really enjoy them when they are done.
