Hello,
I read many of the Sites of this Thread but not all because it's to much.
I wan't to know the easy steps to costumize the sound of the SCPH1002.
I screwed the Power Supply and the PS1 PCB with the Drive on an MDF Plate and soldered a longer cable between the PowerSupply and the PCB, know there is a space of 10cm between them.
As next I will do a shilding between them.
I desoldered the original cinch connectors and soldered high quality cable directly to the pcb where the cinch connectors have been.
After reading some pages of this thread I will do next:
-desolder the 6 Caps
-desolder the four transistors
-open the circuit to the multiav output becuase it won't be used anymore
-open the circuit after the D/A and solder Cables directly to the D/A
L/R an solder it in row with an oil/Paper cap to the cinch connectors that have a resistor parallel soldered?
Is the last point right?
What's about the Level of the output if I won't use the OP-Amp, would it be lower?
That would be a problem because the output of the PS1 is low in original and even lower wouldn't be good.
I hope you can help me with this.
For the controlling i have hacked a ps1 controller and soldered Buttons to the pcb of it.
This Buttons will be the control-Buttons for the Player if I have made a new Housing.
But there is one Problem that lasts...what's about display?
I saw 2,5" TFT Displays with composit in, but I don't know if I can read the text on this small Display if it's connected to the PS1 Video out.
Have anyone tested this little tft's an a PS1?
Sorry for my bad english...
Cobra71
I read many of the Sites of this Thread but not all because it's to much.
I wan't to know the easy steps to costumize the sound of the SCPH1002.
I screwed the Power Supply and the PS1 PCB with the Drive on an MDF Plate and soldered a longer cable between the PowerSupply and the PCB, know there is a space of 10cm between them.
As next I will do a shilding between them.
I desoldered the original cinch connectors and soldered high quality cable directly to the pcb where the cinch connectors have been.
After reading some pages of this thread I will do next:
-desolder the 6 Caps
-desolder the four transistors
-open the circuit to the multiav output becuase it won't be used anymore
-open the circuit after the D/A and solder Cables directly to the D/A
L/R an solder it in row with an oil/Paper cap to the cinch connectors that have a resistor parallel soldered?
Is the last point right?
What's about the Level of the output if I won't use the OP-Amp, would it be lower?
That would be a problem because the output of the PS1 is low in original and even lower wouldn't be good.
I hope you can help me with this.
For the controlling i have hacked a ps1 controller and soldered Buttons to the pcb of it.
This Buttons will be the control-Buttons for the Player if I have made a new Housing.
But there is one Problem that lasts...what's about display?
I saw 2,5" TFT Displays with composit in, but I don't know if I can read the text on this small Display if it's connected to the PS1 Video out.
Have anyone tested this little tft's an a PS1?
Sorry for my bad english...
Cobra71
@cobra
The output without using the op is not lower ! If you want you can read the complete modification in german language on my website www.highend-info.de
BR Dommi
The output without using the op is not lower ! If you want you can read the complete modification in german language on my website www.highend-info.de
BR Dommi
Greg, concering your question why there is an opamp in the signal path of the RCA output but not of the AV-Multi out - I asked someone who has opened the the Sony AV adapter what's inside. He said that there is quite a lot of circuitry and also an opamp. He could not tell whether this opamp is in the signal path to the RCA output in the AV adapter though.
Mick
Mick
Well, you simply give it some amplitude by pushing down one side of the support and then you measure the time the oscillations take (and count the number of oscillations). For my system I found 2 oscillations in 0.5 sec, i.e. 4 per second = 4 Hz.
As I said, this only works for low frequencies which you can see and count and the determination is only approximative.
As I said, this only works for low frequencies which you can see and count and the determination is only approximative.
I have been trying to read through this thread to build a power supply for my custom PS1 but I do not understand the diagrams, or plans. However, why can one not find large wallwarts/transformers that provide the correct 7.6DC and 3.6DC voltage and just hook them up directly to the cd board?
It is a problem of possible low amperage?
It is a problem of possible low amperage?
DragonMaster said:
I have found wallwarts for both V's in 800mA or so.
I don't even know what a LB317 is, so thats partly what I have been trying to research to see if I can even build something like that. I have quite a learning curve as I have never built anything like that and am just getting into DIY stuff.
The LM317 is an adjustable voltage regulator. Like DragonMaster says, no real problem.
But I don't think that's the right way to go. You basically end up with an oversized transformer, possibly 9-0-9 V and then 2 (or 3) voltage regulators, each one burning lots of watts.
The PSX SMPS is complex. But to me it gets a bit easier when you split it in two at the two big diodes. I was considering rebuilding it as two PCBs, keeping the parts that get hot away from the PSX. That way I would need a cable with only two leads. It will still be complicated as far as I'm concerned. But if you must re/make a PSU, I think this is the best alternative.
But I don't think that's the right way to go. You basically end up with an oversized transformer, possibly 9-0-9 V and then 2 (or 3) voltage regulators, each one burning lots of watts.
The PSX SMPS is complex. But to me it gets a bit easier when you split it in two at the two big diodes. I was considering rebuilding it as two PCBs, keeping the parts that get hot away from the PSX. That way I would need a cable with only two leads. It will still be complicated as far as I'm concerned. But if you must re/make a PSU, I think this is the best alternative.
Well, the first thing really is to get one of those new/spare PSX SMPSs for the PSX. I would think that after a decade, those electrolytics are not that healthy. The PSX was used by kids that played it hours on end.
Other than that, cutting the SMPS in two should work. You may actually need 3, not 2, leads. I'm talking from memory here. Looking at the SMPS now without the schematics in front of me, I'm a bit uncertain. But if I remember, this shouldn't be a problem.
I realize this is unconventional. But making a PSU, even if you use a tiny 12-0 transformer, I really don't care for. I know the PSX doesn't draw as much power as a chip amp. But if a single 340 W transformer has a hard time keeping up with the 2 x 25 W Gaincard... And while placing the entire SMPS outside the PSX works, you have a whole bunch of leads to contend with. Just hit me, a laptop SMPS should work. Many are 40 W or higher and you can get them used for €10. But you will still need those power regulators.
Other than that, cutting the SMPS in two should work. You may actually need 3, not 2, leads. I'm talking from memory here. Looking at the SMPS now without the schematics in front of me, I'm a bit uncertain. But if I remember, this shouldn't be a problem.
I realize this is unconventional. But making a PSU, even if you use a tiny 12-0 transformer, I really don't care for. I know the PSX doesn't draw as much power as a chip amp. But if a single 340 W transformer has a hard time keeping up with the 2 x 25 W Gaincard... And while placing the entire SMPS outside the PSX works, you have a whole bunch of leads to contend with. Just hit me, a laptop SMPS should work. Many are 40 W or higher and you can get them used for €10. But you will still need those power regulators.
They may not be that bad, some 50 years old ones are still perfect.
And if they are used often means that they aren't dry.
Something strange happened to Mick. He already tried a 3-lead wire(Putting the complete PCB outside), and his DAC fried. So, even if every grounds are linked at the SMPS, a 7-lead cable should be probably used.
@Mick
If you push the board, isn't it so that the time the board oszillate depens also at the pressure you push it ?
I dont think that this is really a methode to check the resonance frequency. As i know the resonance frequency is the frequency at the time that the support began to swing with the same frequency like the disruption. Isn't it so ? With your methode you can only check which frequency can be absorbed in which time, but this make no diclaration about the quality of the support i think.
BR Dommi
If you push the board, isn't it so that the time the board oszillate depens also at the pressure you push it ?
I dont think that this is really a methode to check the resonance frequency. As i know the resonance frequency is the frequency at the time that the support began to swing with the same frequency like the disruption. Isn't it so ? With your methode you can only check which frequency can be absorbed in which time, but this make no diclaration about the quality of the support i think.
BR Dommi