dynastation
Hi,
on hifitunes.de there are pictures of the inside of the dynastation. In the beginning the site was open for everyone, now only subscriptients (subscripors?) of the german magazin image-hifi can open the articles.
But some month ago I saw the pictures. In the inside of the case there is a standard PSOne in its standard case (all the plastics). I can't remember if it was shown how the PSOne is connected to the tube output.
Hi,
on hifitunes.de there are pictures of the inside of the dynastation. In the beginning the site was open for everyone, now only subscriptients (subscripors?) of the german magazin image-hifi can open the articles.
But some month ago I saw the pictures. In the inside of the case there is a standard PSOne in its standard case (all the plastics). I can't remember if it was shown how the PSOne is connected to the tube output.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I finally finished my recase. I built it open top -- like a record player. Goes good with the analog sound.
Features:
On/Off LED (on left)
Play/Pause - Stop - Up or Down Song - Forward or backward fast forward.
Hi ttrenttttrentt said:
I finally finished my recase. I built it open top -- like a record player. Goes good with the analog sound.
Features:
On/Off LED (on left)
Play/Pause - Stop - Up or Down Song - Forward or backward fast forward.
Beautiful job, was the case from something else or did you fabricate the whole thing ? Looks like a copper sheet under the transport and a blue LED. I guess if it's open you get some interesting light show effects from the blue light bouncing off the underside of the spinning CD.
Any chance of some internal pictures ?
ttrentt said:I finally finished my recase. I built it open top -- like a record player. Goes good with the analog sound.
Features:
On/Off LED (on left)
Play/Pause - Stop - Up or Down Song - Forward or backward fast forward.
Looks nice. Now it's almost a CD player. But then, considering I loath CD players, almost is exactly how I want it.
jives11 said:
Thank you for the nice words (and phn too).
The case was an RCA Digital TV box something or other that I bought at a thrift store for $6US. I dissassembled, filled and cleaned up the panel (most of the front panel is automotive body filler). The blue LED does hit the bottom of the cd and scatter the light -- a cool effect i think. I want to buy a box brake to make my own cases.
I will get some internal pictures next time the case is open, it is a little messy inside
Looks very, very nice...
and very, very professional, mister Trent. You have the touch! My stuff always looks very amateurish. Of course, I'm in it for the sound, not for the look.
Details, need details! I wanna know what shielding you did (did you keep the stock metal cage?), did you damp the enclosure, how did you mount the CD drive, any other changes you made, where did you use the copper, how's it sound?
Get the brake and I might have some work for you... I've been looking at TI-Shield from www.percyaudio.com as the material to fabricate a replacement for the stock metal cage. And if it's too flimsy, I might try some fiberglass or carbon over balsa sandwich from here www.acp-composites.com/acp-lp.htm . I'm leaning towards a fairly open Oracle-ish look and the composite material will likely be used for a baseplate (Corian's another option).
From the experience I had when I took off the connector block and soldered the circuit board from the remote control receiver directly onto the board, good shielding is important. Very curious what you did and how it sounds.
Greg in Minneapolis
and very, very professional, mister Trent. You have the touch! My stuff always looks very amateurish. Of course, I'm in it for the sound, not for the look.
Details, need details! I wanna know what shielding you did (did you keep the stock metal cage?), did you damp the enclosure, how did you mount the CD drive, any other changes you made, where did you use the copper, how's it sound?
Get the brake and I might have some work for you... I've been looking at TI-Shield from www.percyaudio.com as the material to fabricate a replacement for the stock metal cage. And if it's too flimsy, I might try some fiberglass or carbon over balsa sandwich from here www.acp-composites.com/acp-lp.htm . I'm leaning towards a fairly open Oracle-ish look and the composite material will likely be used for a baseplate (Corian's another option).
From the experience I had when I took off the connector block and soldered the circuit board from the remote control receiver directly onto the board, good shielding is important. Very curious what you did and how it sounds.
Greg in Minneapolis
Re: Looks very, very nice...
Wow, thank you for the very nice words, I don't want to sound like a creep, but I don't believe in damping or any of that other crap. Hell, I use the .99$ cables found at the thr. I have very nice silver RCA's and have done blind A/B but don't think it makes a lick of difference.
The only mods are pulling the audio directly off those pads from the DAC, going to 3 1uF WIMA in parrallel and a 22K ohm resister to ground (per channel). The power supply is as far over as I could make it -- but that was more convience in the encloser, not cause I believe the distance of it makes a difference on sound. I did use the stock lower metal and stock upper cage and the actual transport is all stock. All I did was add the copper sheet for looks -- don't think it serves a purpose at all.
I am not sure what you mean for shielding for the control reciever or anything. I just have it off to the side of the case. I am also not sure waht you are talking about for ORacle-ish?
All I know is this thing play Slayer GREAT! Really captures the nuaces of heavy fast guitar.
Greg Stewart said:
Wow, thank you for the very nice words, I don't want to sound like a creep, but I don't believe in damping or any of that other crap. Hell, I use the .99$ cables found at the thr. I have very nice silver RCA's and have done blind A/B but don't think it makes a lick of difference.
The only mods are pulling the audio directly off those pads from the DAC, going to 3 1uF WIMA in parrallel and a 22K ohm resister to ground (per channel). The power supply is as far over as I could make it -- but that was more convience in the encloser, not cause I believe the distance of it makes a difference on sound. I did use the stock lower metal and stock upper cage and the actual transport is all stock. All I did was add the copper sheet for looks -- don't think it serves a purpose at all.
I am not sure what you mean for shielding for the control reciever or anything. I just have it off to the side of the case. I am also not sure waht you are talking about for ORacle-ish?
All I know is this thing play Slayer GREAT! Really captures the nuaces of heavy fast guitar.
Re: Re: Looks very, very nice...
I meant 'em too.
No offense taken. I've found it unproductive to argue beliefs about what makes a difference in sound and not... They are just 'tastes great / less filling ' conversations (which refers to a series of American beer commercials with two sides arguing about why a particular brand of beer is good... Sorry about using that without a context, Thomas and others). I'm sure I will do (and report on) a number of things that I'll do to my PS's that will make your hair curl (Huh... Looked in the mirror... Looks like it's too late, it's already curled MY hair!).
Thanks for the details.
I pulled off all the sockets for the wired remotes and soldered the circuit board from the remote receiver directly onto the circuit board from the back of the sockets. When I did this, one thing I noticed was a bit of 'digital hash'. One thought I had about that was that removing the sockets also meant removing a bunch of shielding... Generally not a good thing, so I fashioned an ugly replacement out of some tin-plated steel I had... And it seemed to reduce the hash.
From that, I think it is important to keep the mainboard roughly as shielded as stock, if not moreso.
The Canadian company Oracle came out with a ground-breaking, controversial, and very distinctive-looking turntable back in the early 1980's. It was my 1st audiophile-ish turntable... Clearly a couple cuts above anything else I'd owned and most of what I'd heard to that time.
See below for the turntable...
Of course, mine won't look anything as nice as these... or even pretty at all!
I haven't put any Slayer through mine yet, but it did handle everything else I put through it, including some Rammstein.
Greg in Minneapolis
ttrentt said:
I meant 'em too.
No offense taken. I've found it unproductive to argue beliefs about what makes a difference in sound and not... They are just 'tastes great / less filling ' conversations (which refers to a series of American beer commercials with two sides arguing about why a particular brand of beer is good... Sorry about using that without a context, Thomas and others). I'm sure I will do (and report on) a number of things that I'll do to my PS's that will make your hair curl (Huh... Looked in the mirror... Looks like it's too late, it's already curled MY hair!).
Thanks for the details.
I pulled off all the sockets for the wired remotes and soldered the circuit board from the remote receiver directly onto the circuit board from the back of the sockets. When I did this, one thing I noticed was a bit of 'digital hash'. One thought I had about that was that removing the sockets also meant removing a bunch of shielding... Generally not a good thing, so I fashioned an ugly replacement out of some tin-plated steel I had... And it seemed to reduce the hash.
From that, I think it is important to keep the mainboard roughly as shielded as stock, if not moreso.
The Canadian company Oracle came out with a ground-breaking, controversial, and very distinctive-looking turntable back in the early 1980's. It was my 1st audiophile-ish turntable... Clearly a couple cuts above anything else I'd owned and most of what I'd heard to that time.
See below for the turntable...
Of course, mine won't look anything as nice as these... or even pretty at all!
I haven't put any Slayer through mine yet, but it did handle everything else I put through it, including some Rammstein.
Greg in Minneapolis
Attachments
Re: Re: More lotsa reply!
Yah... that's one of those frustrating tradeoffs... most fully time-coherent speakers (can reproduce a recognizable square wave or step function... see test results of Stereophile's speaker reviews to see examples of ones that do and ones that don't) don't do this over a large area.
Personally, having that coherence is so important to me that I'll live with the small listening zone. But that's not to everyone's taste.
Greg in Minneapolis
thokra2003 said:
Yah... that's one of those frustrating tradeoffs... most fully time-coherent speakers (can reproduce a recognizable square wave or step function... see test results of Stereophile's speaker reviews to see examples of ones that do and ones that don't) don't do this over a large area.
Personally, having that coherence is so important to me that I'll live with the small listening zone. But that's not to everyone's taste.
Greg in Minneapolis
Output stage
Hello All,
I know I'm behind, but I just got a PS SCPH 1001. I thank Antoine , George, Jonathan and Mick for all the incredible info. Mick, I know you are in photography, but still, the pictures of the Playstation are wonderful! Thanks also for your WEB site. A few questions/ comments. I have not popped open the case yet. I first ran a few CDs to see if all is working, and it is (whew). Antoine, thanks so much for the player control button layout to work stop, start, etc. OK, here goes.
1. It is stated that the output power from the SMPS is 7.6 VDC and 3.6VDC. Is that an unregulated power supply? I'm guessing it is. Those voltages really do not seem standard and I'm guessing the engineers are allowing for sage/surge of the input ac voltage, plus by running lower you can keep the heat down. Therefore a regulated outboard voltage supply may be a little higher to achieve a stronger output. Make sense?
2. Someone earlier mentioned using an AD826 OpAmp to replace the NJM 2100. I looked up the AD826 schematic and it appears it needs a 5VDC minimum supply (split/ bias voltage min. of 2.5VDC). Plus they suggest that the Rfeedback resistor be no greater then 1k. The NJM is in inverting mode with RF = 18k. AD826 is a great OpAmp, but maybe not suited for this application.
3. Since the NJM2100 is inverting, anyone observe the reverse polarity output on a 'scope? I do not have a 'scope
Sorry for the long post, I'll wait. Bruce
Hello All,
I know I'm behind, but I just got a PS SCPH 1001. I thank Antoine , George, Jonathan and Mick for all the incredible info. Mick, I know you are in photography, but still, the pictures of the Playstation are wonderful! Thanks also for your WEB site. A few questions/ comments. I have not popped open the case yet. I first ran a few CDs to see if all is working, and it is (whew). Antoine, thanks so much for the player control button layout to work stop, start, etc. OK, here goes.
1. It is stated that the output power from the SMPS is 7.6 VDC and 3.6VDC. Is that an unregulated power supply? I'm guessing it is. Those voltages really do not seem standard and I'm guessing the engineers are allowing for sage/surge of the input ac voltage, plus by running lower you can keep the heat down. Therefore a regulated outboard voltage supply may be a little higher to achieve a stronger output. Make sense?
2. Someone earlier mentioned using an AD826 OpAmp to replace the NJM 2100. I looked up the AD826 schematic and it appears it needs a 5VDC minimum supply (split/ bias voltage min. of 2.5VDC). Plus they suggest that the Rfeedback resistor be no greater then 1k. The NJM is in inverting mode with RF = 18k. AD826 is a great OpAmp, but maybe not suited for this application.
3. Since the NJM2100 is inverting, anyone observe the reverse polarity output on a 'scope? I do not have a 'scope
Sorry for the long post, I'll wait. Bruce
Hi Bruce,
It's regulated, and I don't know why they use these voltages.
Mick put almost all we've done here on his website, dogbreath.de. Instead of changing the opamp buffer, we bypass the current output stage. I don't see why there's an NJM2100 since the A/V Multi Out has a passive output stage.
It's regulated, and I don't know why they use these voltages.
Mick put almost all we've done here on his website, dogbreath.de. Instead of changing the opamp buffer, we bypass the current output stage. I don't see why there's an NJM2100 since the A/V Multi Out has a passive output stage.
Thanks Antoine, I have read Mick's writings. All helpful. I just personally feel more comfortable with buffering the output of the DAC. That's not for everyone, I know. Thank you again, nice to know that it is a regulated power supply. I guess I'm seeing the transistors on the output differently. Mick says they are for muting, I agree. Sorry, but I see no passive buffering stage to the outside world. I am guessing that the A/V multi-output is going to something like that... I do not know. Maybe originally just to the preamp of a television (the audio portion) or rf converter.
Bruce
Bruce
Mick_F said:
Mick, I'd guess it's a general practice to have a buffer amp after the DAC for most consumer gear... I've seen it in a number of CDPs and DVD Players where they'd work ok without the buffer amp... and I've wondered why it wasn't in the video output path of the Playstation.
The main thing I like that it does is to make the unit non-inverting. But in every other way, it sounds much better bypassed.
Bruce, I'm running it into a high-capacitance cable and a moderate impedence passive volume control (roughly 25K ohms) and am having no issues with it. I'd suggest trying the bypass thing first and replacing the buffer only after you see you need it.
Greg in Minneapolis