Iron Pre Essentials Kits For The DIYA Store - Register Your Interest

I originally was using a ALPS rk27 4 gang for my Iron Pre. On many of my other preamps I have used the very high value(cheap Dact style smd stepped attenuaters(15cdn) and thought they sounded excellent. For fun I thought I would try to combine two of these ebay Dact Attenuators and turn them into a 4 gang version. I filed and cut a hex screw driver bit down and removed the sticker backing of the one unit to combine the two. Sounds really good so far.

Just in case anyone is on a budget like me and cant afford TDK or Goldpoint, lol.
 

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it's much better scenario using worst Drek 10VA-20VA xformers, one per channel and put them in separate case, than mounting ultragigamegabestintheworld 60VA Behemoth, in same case with signal xformers, connected as common for both channels

what's wrong with investing some time to find decent 10-20VA Donuts ?
 
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I used 2qty Antek 10VA, 15VAC (AN-0115) on my Iron Pumpkin with the can shields. Works really well and only $20/ea including the steel cover +shipping.

I suspect Iron Pre is similar in power needs. My understanding is you want to keep the donut(s) small to minimize possible interference with Cinemags.

[EDIT: Apparent simulpost with ZM, so I'll just say "yeah, what he said" 😆 ]
 
Apologies if this has come up before.

I'm building a balanced Iron Pre and I was able to make all the proper adjustments and verifications. When running it through my test system I wasn't getting any audio in the output. I also noticed that the switch on the twister board would light all the LEDs in the mute position. I believe that I soldered the rotary switch in the opposite orientation and I may need a new twister board V3. Would anyone have any spares? Thank you in advance!
 
Ok, I will admit that after building the SE version of this preamp and putting in some audiofool components in certain places, I was was not overwhelmingly impressed with what I heard. Although the what I heard through my standard amp, that I normally drove with Wayne's BA2018 preamp, was clear, accurate and had a decent bass response, it just never gave me a feeling of warmth or depth I needed to hear (could it have it have been the wrong amp pairing...sure). I've been playing lately with the TungstenAudio build version of the Pass Amp Camp Amp (took me awhile to join that cult) and decided to try my SE Iron Pre build with the ACA. All I can say is Wow now. The soundstage is beautiful, the upper frequencies are crystal clear and the bass is solid & accurate. The presence is outstanding. I was going to write this preamp off as a fun build, but not my thing, but now it has a place.

Thanks ZM....and to Patrick who told me to not give up on this preamp...
 
one need to recognize and know own puzzles ......... :clown:

I wrote numerous times what's my stance, so puzzles rolled that way - sources and preamp clean as possible (2nd dominant if achievable), then all Sugar I need made in amp

though, let's once more underline most important thing - if one had enough perseverance and enough luck to recognize and obtain "his proper" speakers, nature of amps used is less and less important.

my brain wired that way that I can enjoy equally in most Sugary and most clean amps, but certainly helped with fact that I have my proper speakers


funny buddha.jpeg
 
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So I'm mostly ready to start assembly of my SE kit. The case is here but I'm missing a bunch of the connectors ( ok all of them )

I found the volume pot in the thread somewhere
I need to measure the power entry module port - any suggestions on the part?
I need to look up the power switch - any suggestions?
Are this and this right for the rca jacks?

I'm debating what to use for hooking up the rca jacks. I have a bunch of cat 6 or cat 7 ethernet wire which is nicely twisted. Given the lower voltage of the inputs / output any reason not to use that? Is it worth getting the mogami?