Completed the board tonight. Plan inspect and test it, and then add all the power supplies to a “bird’s nest” configuration on wood board to power it up and try it out prior building an enclosure.
Hi, I have full TD1 kit available if someone is interested: PCBs, all parts according to BOM and an original TDA1541A chip. Contact via PM.
Hi,
Can you give me the model number of the 5V linear power supplies?
Can you tell me what you use for the -15V power supply (with the model)?
Thanks
@Michel8
Ich habe das hier gerade auf AliExpress gefunden: 48,39€ | Assembeld Sigma22 Dual Spannung Linear Power Supply Board +/-5V +/-12V +/-15V +/-18V
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EJ0jTte
You need one +5v 0 -5v
And one 15v + 0 -15 V
The tip comes from Gabster . YT Video in progress
Ich habe das hier gerade auf AliExpress gefunden: 48,39€ | Assembeld Sigma22 Dual Spannung Linear Power Supply Board +/-5V +/-12V +/-15V +/-18V
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EJ0jTte
You need one +5v 0 -5v
And one 15v + 0 -15 V
The tip comes from Gabster . YT Video in progress
I am new to the thread, so please forgive me.
I have ordered a TD1 DAC and am waiting for it to arrive. A few years ago, I bought a Tubizator board, which is basically an I/V cathode follower, that I am contemplating using with the TD1. I am also thinking about changing the silicon rectifier power supply to use a tue rectifier, such as a 5U4, etc.
Has anyone used a tube I/V with the TD1? If so, what did you do, and what was your experience/impression.
Thanks
I have ordered a TD1 DAC and am waiting for it to arrive. A few years ago, I bought a Tubizator board, which is basically an I/V cathode follower, that I am contemplating using with the TD1. I am also thinking about changing the silicon rectifier power supply to use a tue rectifier, such as a 5U4, etc.
Has anyone used a tube I/V with the TD1? If so, what did you do, and what was your experience/impression.
Thanks
Since the TD1 is a relatively new board it's unlikely anyone has tried it yet. I say build and and see what happens
Here's mine so far. There's four power rails fed by four Li-Ion packs. The regulators provide -5 +5 +15 and +5 VDC. The batteries are switched on and off by an Arduino Uno and a relay shield. I will add a display that will show the status of the relays and the pack voltages. For today I'll wire up @iancanada I2S to PCM board and feed that with one of his HDMI receivers. I have a pink faun I2S bridge that will plug into that. For now I am powering the pink faun board with the PC PSU and not re-clocking it. It will feed right into the I2S to PCM board. I want to see what it sounds like, that way I know if I power the I2s bridge with a linear supply or re-clock it I'll notice the benefits
PCM board mounted with power...
Does anyone know the correct way to connect the HDMI receiver to the I2S to PCM board? I'm using the ufl connectors
The HDMI board has DATA SCK LRCK MCK on the output
The I2S to PCM board has SD WS SCK MCLK on the input for I2S
I'm guessing SCK to SCK and MCK to MCLK but I don't know the other two
Does anyone know the correct way to connect the HDMI receiver to the I2S to PCM board? I'm using the ufl connectors
The HDMI board has DATA SCK LRCK MCK on the output
The I2S to PCM board has SD WS SCK MCLK on the input for I2S
I'm guessing SCK to SCK and MCK to MCLK but I don't know the other two
I had to power the HDMI receiver by itself as the Pink Faun I2S bridge does not output +5V on pin 18. I connected HDMI board DATA to SD, SCK to SCK, LRCK to WS, and MCK to MCLK on the I2S to PCM board. After that I got a PWR, AUX, and I2S lock light on the I2S to PCM board. It looks like the digital front end is all set and the pink faun I2S bridge is working.
You can check if everything is connected correctly by watching this video from Gabster.
@sbelyo Just a comment and suggestion regarding the Li Ion battery supply, especially the 15V supply. If you are using Li Ion (and not LiFePO4), the internal resistance of the batteries is fairly high (maybe 50 milliohms, check the data sheet). With the five batteries in series, the internal resistances are additive (250 milliohms or more). To compensate for this, have larger, low ESR ( such as aluminum polymer) capacitors on the input of the LM317 regulator. Attach to the input terminals or replace the input cap on the PCB.
This applies to ultracaps as well, the ESR is additive with more in series for the higher voltage.
This applies to ultracaps as well, the ESR is additive with more in series for the higher voltage.
Right now my cheapest, $65, TDA1541A chip is in the DAC - just in case…
Thus far the highs, midrange, and sound stage size and separation are better than my SMSL VMV D1se. The instrument decay and musicality of the sound presentation makes it sound more like you are at a live performance. I'm going to listen to it a while and put in the "better" TDA1541A chip that I have and see if the magical happens. Overall, I'm happy already because of the sound stage performance - my system sounded great before and now it sounds great and has better sound stage performance and instrument decay.
Just one more thought… even though this TD1 DAC sounds more “musical” than both of my delta-sigma DACs, I still much prefer the sound better from my system when it is configured with a good tube preamp between the DAC and power amp. This new re-clocked streamer and DAC definitely improve my system, but the improvement is incremental - the “game changer” streaming improvement for me was adding the tube preamp. Something you might want to consider if you have not been there yet.