Check that the flat part of the plastic housing at the bottom is oriented to match the outline on the PCB.
I've made a lot of improvement but it's still not great. I found that when I switched the D3 LED on the left board I shorted it out and the LED blew. I fixed that and It god rid of the loud screeching. I then stripped a good RCA cable and used the shielded wire to rewire the In and output connections as suggested by grataku. Still it sounded real bad. Could barely hear any music for the buzzing. I unscrewed the boards from the case. The screws were going through the case and the buzzing stopped. I can actually listen to music and sounds ok but not great. Still a bad hum at higher levels.
I'll try some more things tomorrow. Thanks for all the help.
I'll try some more things tomorrow. Thanks for all the help.
@maxellfullmon
you mentioned undoing the screws holding the boards and I noticed that you had scraped the paint off the chassis under these screws as if to make good electrical contact...
these boards are not designed to be grounded through their mounting screws. This shouldn't matter but you may have inadvertently grounded R4 or R5 via these fastenings.
Just sayin'
you mentioned undoing the screws holding the boards and I noticed that you had scraped the paint off the chassis under these screws as if to make good electrical contact...
these boards are not designed to be grounded through their mounting screws. This shouldn't matter but you may have inadvertently grounded R4 or R5 via these fastenings.
Just sayin'
Part 2 mechanical done. I m satisfied with the results. I ordered shorter screws for all the neutrik plugs.
Tomorrow: wiring.
Picking up on mhenschel point: l had to add nylon washers to isolate the board from the 4 nuts. Below the parallel fets, two source resistors come close to the mounting hole.
Hopefully this board actually works without issues! That would be nice!
Tomorrow: wiring.
Picking up on mhenschel point: l had to add nylon washers to isolate the board from the 4 nuts. Below the parallel fets, two source resistors come close to the mounting hole.
Hopefully this board actually works without issues! That would be nice!
If they do light up, you did them right 👍
Yes..... that´s another possible error. If standoff´s or screw-heads are too wide, it´s possible to to make some unwanted connections.
Solution: Put plastic washers between pcb and standoff´s and betweeen pcb and screws.
Seems grounding can be different from build to build. My builds have ground terminal isolated from chassis. 10ohm from eaxh
ground point on the pcb to the ground terminal and 10ohm from ground terminal to chassis.
Mine are totally hum-free with both my turntables😉
Thanks.
I have had these two boxes for 20y, nice to put them to use. Finally!
I am still thinking about a way to cram the 1uF russian caps in there!
My job is completely different. No manual labor. Unfortunately.
I am only using the neutrik rca because I am out of reg rcas. Way too many holes to drill with these! Not interested in having bal output and no need for the extra gain either. Bal only makes sense to me if you have a full balanced amplification chain and native balanced riaa. Sonically, I see no advantages. IMHO all the extra feedback loops in the drv135 are only going to make the thing sound more 'op ampy'.
I have had these two boxes for 20y, nice to put them to use. Finally!
I am still thinking about a way to cram the 1uF russian caps in there!
My job is completely different. No manual labor. Unfortunately.
I am only using the neutrik rca because I am out of reg rcas. Way too many holes to drill with these! Not interested in having bal output and no need for the extra gain either. Bal only makes sense to me if you have a full balanced amplification chain and native balanced riaa. Sonically, I see no advantages. IMHO all the extra feedback loops in the drv135 are only going to make the thing sound more 'op ampy'.
I've been playing around with the Pass Pearl 3 for a few days now. My first observation: it requires a substantial break-in period.
For now, I'm listening with MM.
It's very neutral and detailed, quite different from other phono stages I've tried. There's no "charm," and that's a positive thing—charm is found elsewhere, not in hi-fi.
The pairing with a Soundsmith Carmen cartridge seems to work well: neutral, dynamic, and detailed.
Treble extension is very clean, though still a bit harsh (something to improve).
Midrange is full without overpowering the other frequency ranges.
Bass is tight and controlled, not bloated.
I may need to refine the pairing with cables, as that could affect the treble.
Next step: trying it with an MC cartridge (EMT TSD 15).
Thanks to @meanman1964 for make it happen 😎
What cartridges are you using?
For now, I'm listening with MM.
It's very neutral and detailed, quite different from other phono stages I've tried. There's no "charm," and that's a positive thing—charm is found elsewhere, not in hi-fi.
The pairing with a Soundsmith Carmen cartridge seems to work well: neutral, dynamic, and detailed.
Treble extension is very clean, though still a bit harsh (something to improve).
Midrange is full without overpowering the other frequency ranges.
Bass is tight and controlled, not bloated.
I may need to refine the pairing with cables, as that could affect the treble.
Next step: trying it with an MC cartridge (EMT TSD 15).
Thanks to @meanman1964 for make it happen 😎
What cartridges are you using?
Hello naca5,
the capacity of your phonocable plus your adjustment in the PEARL 3 (dipswitch setting of the inputcaps / SW6 = 100pF / SW7 = 220pF)
affect the frequency - rolloff / - emphasize in the upper frequencyrange with an MovingMagnet-cartridge.
But I think you know that.
Cheers
Dirk
the capacity of your phonocable plus your adjustment in the PEARL 3 (dipswitch setting of the inputcaps / SW6 = 100pF / SW7 = 220pF)
affect the frequency - rolloff / - emphasize in the upper frequencyrange with an MovingMagnet-cartridge.
But I think you know that.
Cheers
Dirk
Pearl3 episode 3: wired, tested and playing.
R27 were replaced with 500 and 620 ohm from 220ohms, to get 4.8 and 4.7mA. Q: what is causing this huge change in the bias current between boards?
The PS is not ideal but it's good for prelim testing. Sound-wise I'd say it is a different class from my other SS RIAA. More mid presence presence more music 'definition'. IF there is a hint of brightness, I am curious if it is due to the caps.
I have some 5532 I may swap after I build the PS board. Curious about other people experimentations with 1uF cap and opamp subs here.
thanks
R27 were replaced with 500 and 620 ohm from 220ohms, to get 4.8 and 4.7mA. Q: what is causing this huge change in the bias current between boards?
The PS is not ideal but it's good for prelim testing. Sound-wise I'd say it is a different class from my other SS RIAA. More mid presence presence more music 'definition'. IF there is a hint of brightness, I am curious if it is due to the caps.
I have some 5532 I may swap after I build the PS board. Curious about other people experimentations with 1uF cap and opamp subs here.
thanks
Hey 6L6,
I was wondering if it's possible to lower the 1uF to 0.47uF since that would make it easier to find many more caps of comparable size. I suppose the LF cutoff would be changed some.
Time and again I am finding huge sonic differences swapping coupling caps.
I was wondering if it's possible to lower the 1uF to 0.47uF since that would make it easier to find many more caps of comparable size. I suppose the LF cutoff would be changed some.
Time and again I am finding huge sonic differences swapping coupling caps.
Yeah, I was in a hurry to play it and I forgot to take pics. It's not a 'hot swap' situation TBS, but I am able to pull the lid off with the racked boards. I maybe able to swap opamps without further disassembly but obviously not the caps. I use masking tape to hold the screws in place and stack the spacers/boards back in place. The in/out is 22 or 24 ga solid silver coated Cu with teflon. Same stuff as Red Boy on hifihaven uses for his SUT boxes. For power 18 ga stranded silver/Cu teflon wire. I have 6-7in of it from the neutrik to the individual boards so boards can be moved independently.
I couldn't measure the power draw but the tta/ttc get warm to the touch. My Hypnotize RIAA PS settles down quite a bit. I need the proper PS!
I couldn't measure the power draw but the tta/ttc get warm to the touch. My Hypnotize RIAA PS settles down quite a bit. I need the proper PS!
