Just off the top of my head, I think a dpdt switch might be all you need. RUN connecting the motor leads to your DC-DC up converter and GEN connecting the leads to a charge controller.
Sailboats often have multiple series strings of solar connected in parallel to combat the shading issue. If you can tolerate the added weight, additional storage capacity will help mitigate issues of an undersized array or any shading that may occur. It depends on the usage pattern of the boat. Daily dusk to dawn usage points to more generation as the solution. 4-6 hours of run time a couple days per week would allow a significantly undersized array to keep a larger battery bank topped off and ready for go.
Sailboats often have multiple series strings of solar connected in parallel to combat the shading issue. If you can tolerate the added weight, additional storage capacity will help mitigate issues of an undersized array or any shading that may occur. It depends on the usage pattern of the boat. Daily dusk to dawn usage points to more generation as the solution. 4-6 hours of run time a couple days per week would allow a significantly undersized array to keep a larger battery bank topped off and ready for go.
Thanks for that. The beachcat will used 5-7 days a week from 9am to 5pm with some sessions going into the evening and some evening into nights. Up to two weeks holiday use dry docked with the larger hulls
I have another possible plan for the powertrain making use of drag to generate power
I have another possible plan for the powertrain making use of drag to generate power
We have pretty big tides here, so the current flow is pretty strong for both incoming and outgoing. I really feel like making a use of this. Cruise will also be wind assisted and target speed for cruise is a low 2-3 knots
I think that won't be difficult for a day's use with the current motor, battery, panels and MPPT. I can build the craft, get on the water and spend my days working the refit
Thought up a different plan for the powertrain upgrade to BLDC
Current panels, maybe add some more
Current solar controller
Current 12v 100AH LiFePO4 battery
A single large dia axial flow type prop on a shaft
BLDC motor to the shaft via belt and pulley
Shaft to spin slower than the motor
Linear actuator between shaft and hull for trim/flight control
Simple 12v ebike controller with reverse and PAS
Steering to be original rudders behind each hull
The 1.8kw DC-DC converter would raise the battery 12v to 48v to run the sound system
A two-way switch on the BLDC phase wires selecting between battery and regen
Regen selection isolates the motor from the battery and connects the phase wires to a DIY 3-phase to DC circuit followed by a DC-DC converter to supply a charge to the 12v LiFePO4
A foot pedal crank on via twisted belt to the shaft coupled by a rear hub from a kids bike. This isolates the crank so that the crank can interfere with the shaft but not the other way around. I can fit three such cranks along the shaft for 3x human power
I feel good about this one. Nails many boxes without a major spend. If this works out then will replace the 12v system with a 48v LiFePO4 and the following items
High output ebike controller with regen, reverse and PAS
48v 5kw EVRE
Once I have the ratio between the shaft and motor correct, it might pay off big time and be better investment than further solar
How do you guys feel about this approach?
I think that won't be difficult for a day's use with the current motor, battery, panels and MPPT. I can build the craft, get on the water and spend my days working the refit
Thought up a different plan for the powertrain upgrade to BLDC
Current panels, maybe add some more
Current solar controller
Current 12v 100AH LiFePO4 battery
A single large dia axial flow type prop on a shaft
BLDC motor to the shaft via belt and pulley
Shaft to spin slower than the motor
Linear actuator between shaft and hull for trim/flight control
Simple 12v ebike controller with reverse and PAS
Steering to be original rudders behind each hull
The 1.8kw DC-DC converter would raise the battery 12v to 48v to run the sound system
A two-way switch on the BLDC phase wires selecting between battery and regen
Regen selection isolates the motor from the battery and connects the phase wires to a DIY 3-phase to DC circuit followed by a DC-DC converter to supply a charge to the 12v LiFePO4
A foot pedal crank on via twisted belt to the shaft coupled by a rear hub from a kids bike. This isolates the crank so that the crank can interfere with the shaft but not the other way around. I can fit three such cranks along the shaft for 3x human power
I feel good about this one. Nails many boxes without a major spend. If this works out then will replace the 12v system with a 48v LiFePO4 and the following items
High output ebike controller with regen, reverse and PAS
48v 5kw EVRE
Once I have the ratio between the shaft and motor correct, it might pay off big time and be better investment than further solar
How do you guys feel about this approach?
Hydrogeneration is certainly worth pursuing. If you're expecting to spend much time on the hook in a tidal stream, it seems like a no-brainer.
Optimizing regen underway at your expected speed shouldn't be to hard to to figure out. Low speed, high efficiency prop design is a well-studied field but may not require a deep dive as your application isn't new ground and prop guidance shouldn't be hard to find. Does Freeship, Hulls, or other design software you're familiar with have prop design capability? 3d printing prototypes and casting (aluminum?) or creating a mold for a carbon layup of the chosen prop would be fun. With such a relatively low load, a printed prop using one of the CF formulations might be more than adequate though.
I have run across mention of a budget friendly approach using inexpensive wind generators coupled to an outboard shaft and prop either permanently or alternating between hydro/air modes as required. It might be worth a look...
The Race to Alaska (R2AK) that I mentioned elsewhere is a 700 mile race restricted to sail or human power. 90-95% of the teams travel north through the inside passage between Vancouver Island and the mainland. Early on, many teams fitted oar-locks, but massive tides and heavy currents have lead to peddle rigs being the clear winner. Overall smart cookie and friend of the Gougeon Brothers, Russell Brown has a little to say on the matter here.
We were there the day before the start last year and, by far, most of the last minute scramble centered around pedal drives.
Optimizing regen underway at your expected speed shouldn't be to hard to to figure out. Low speed, high efficiency prop design is a well-studied field but may not require a deep dive as your application isn't new ground and prop guidance shouldn't be hard to find. Does Freeship, Hulls, or other design software you're familiar with have prop design capability? 3d printing prototypes and casting (aluminum?) or creating a mold for a carbon layup of the chosen prop would be fun. With such a relatively low load, a printed prop using one of the CF formulations might be more than adequate though.
I have run across mention of a budget friendly approach using inexpensive wind generators coupled to an outboard shaft and prop either permanently or alternating between hydro/air modes as required. It might be worth a look...
The Race to Alaska (R2AK) that I mentioned elsewhere is a 700 mile race restricted to sail or human power. 90-95% of the teams travel north through the inside passage between Vancouver Island and the mainland. Early on, many teams fitted oar-locks, but massive tides and heavy currents have lead to peddle rigs being the clear winner. Overall smart cookie and friend of the Gougeon Brothers, Russell Brown has a little to say on the matter here.
We were there the day before the start last year and, by far, most of the last minute scramble centered around pedal drives.
I am acquainted with Rick Willoughby and his human power work, as well as Harry Proa and the power cat tender. Can lean somewhat for prop advice. Ali also has a good selection to try. Am able to CAD and print or machine if needed
Props!
This is the last thing I want in the water around swimmers, but something needs to propel the craft! The idea of a large prop spinning in the current is scary around the main area of use. Panicked and water tumbling people grab at things. I have to take a lot of care with the implementation and a very good ducted system. There is hope as a cylindrical duct can still be a wing and part of the rear T foil. A deep enough duct will do a lot to prevent accidental hands in the prop. Paddle wheels are a bit less efficient than props but might have an application here. A centrally mounted wheel just might work for both propulsion and regen and would be a natural with the ebike gear. A 26" 5kw hub motor and printed TPU blades on the rim instead of a tyre. TPU will give a good whack but won't slash anyone. Done right, I might be able to drive on and off the shore break and very low tides. Just a spring suspension for grounding would do that
A 5kw hub motor would plod well at low voltage trolling speed and have a bit of zip, especially with the EVRE topping up the potential
Just been hit with another idea to build on that. I can do a large XPS foam wheel on the lathe and glass it, to fit a hub motor and still have that row of TPU blades on its rim. The wheel would be shaped like clamshelled saucers and if I can have the setting enough to half immerse it under sail, it can work as a centerboard/gen wheel combo. The blades would be on the sides at the rim and pass a bit over the rim for sand traction. I hope I am explaining well
The sub box can have a wheel arch to take up the top of the wheel
I have an aluminium bike frame in storage for something like this. Lots to think about regarding the powertrain upgrade
Safety issue again on the windmills, but I have an idea
What if I split the wind generators over a number of smaller units? Such as a row of 4 whirlybird type units on the roof. If I can generate 400w, that would be ample to power upwind. I have a number of RC scale BLDC motors. Let's rig some up and see how much wind and water power then can generate with a reliable 100w each as target. I have a Creality CR6-MAX and can do 40cm3. Again, TPU would be ideal material against fumbling hands
Props!
This is the last thing I want in the water around swimmers, but something needs to propel the craft! The idea of a large prop spinning in the current is scary around the main area of use. Panicked and water tumbling people grab at things. I have to take a lot of care with the implementation and a very good ducted system. There is hope as a cylindrical duct can still be a wing and part of the rear T foil. A deep enough duct will do a lot to prevent accidental hands in the prop. Paddle wheels are a bit less efficient than props but might have an application here. A centrally mounted wheel just might work for both propulsion and regen and would be a natural with the ebike gear. A 26" 5kw hub motor and printed TPU blades on the rim instead of a tyre. TPU will give a good whack but won't slash anyone. Done right, I might be able to drive on and off the shore break and very low tides. Just a spring suspension for grounding would do that
A 5kw hub motor would plod well at low voltage trolling speed and have a bit of zip, especially with the EVRE topping up the potential
Just been hit with another idea to build on that. I can do a large XPS foam wheel on the lathe and glass it, to fit a hub motor and still have that row of TPU blades on its rim. The wheel would be shaped like clamshelled saucers and if I can have the setting enough to half immerse it under sail, it can work as a centerboard/gen wheel combo. The blades would be on the sides at the rim and pass a bit over the rim for sand traction. I hope I am explaining well
The sub box can have a wheel arch to take up the top of the wheel
I have an aluminium bike frame in storage for something like this. Lots to think about regarding the powertrain upgrade
Safety issue again on the windmills, but I have an idea
What if I split the wind generators over a number of smaller units? Such as a row of 4 whirlybird type units on the roof. If I can generate 400w, that would be ample to power upwind. I have a number of RC scale BLDC motors. Let's rig some up and see how much wind and water power then can generate with a reliable 100w each as target. I have a Creality CR6-MAX and can do 40cm3. Again, TPU would be ideal material against fumbling hands
We see, turtles, dolphins, dugongs and lone ranger swimmers all along the beach. A wheel might give a lot of green cred. Also sound like fun. Let's shift the low price testing to this. Instead of a small marine motor and ebike controller to test the concept
Thinking about keeping the solar for the home if it doesn't do much for the boat
Thinking about keeping the solar for the home if it doesn't do much for the boat
Getting too mixed up again. I need to focus more on getting the craft working with the Watersnake and a well shrouded and suitable prop first and see how much help the single 12v 100AH LiFePO4 needs, This thing already has electric steering and a base that I can fit on a hinged plate with a strong linear actuator for power trim. I can bypass its controller with a two-way switch and send its back EMF via some sort of charger when dragging the shrouded prop under sail
The EVRE will be the next purchase. This is the get out of jail for the craft. Let's see how much this needs to come on to charge the battery during all the typical use
If the panels help on the boat then great, if not, they will help better at home
Going to stop pondering recharge beyond the current panels and EVRE from this point. The cheapest efficiency upgrade would be refitting the Watersnake with a BLDC motor and controller from the transom mount brushless version, which has a higher thrust rating for less power draw. I can use the same two-way type of switch to send the BLDC back EMF through a charging system back to the battery, under sail/current drag
https://www.watersnake.com.au/products/watersnake-advance-brushless-transom-mount-motors
I really think this much would be sufficient for my daily use, and then I can think about paddle wheels and such. I keep forgetting that I do have a complete propulsion and steering system in the Watersnake and 12v 100AH LiFePO4 + sail already
No more distractions, build with what's already on hand first
The EVRE will be the next purchase. This is the get out of jail for the craft. Let's see how much this needs to come on to charge the battery during all the typical use
If the panels help on the boat then great, if not, they will help better at home
Going to stop pondering recharge beyond the current panels and EVRE from this point. The cheapest efficiency upgrade would be refitting the Watersnake with a BLDC motor and controller from the transom mount brushless version, which has a higher thrust rating for less power draw. I can use the same two-way type of switch to send the BLDC back EMF through a charging system back to the battery, under sail/current drag
https://www.watersnake.com.au/products/watersnake-advance-brushless-transom-mount-motors
I really think this much would be sufficient for my daily use, and then I can think about paddle wheels and such. I keep forgetting that I do have a complete propulsion and steering system in the Watersnake and 12v 100AH LiFePO4 + sail already
No more distractions, build with what's already on hand first
@Randy Bassinga.
I saw an experimental electric airplane conversion a while back that used a bunch of small props along the wing. I'd have to look, but I think it was a NASA. That says something.
One approach would be to go with a sizeable battery bank, 4x 12v/100ah charged by the solar array during the day with the bulk of the charging taking place overnight by a couple 400w-500w vertical turbine wind generators. Stow or lock the rotor as necessary, using neutrik or similar conn if stowing . A receiver on deck for a mast, swing out bracket from the roof or, I bet you could make a bracket to fit sail track and run one up the mast with a halyard. Lines from the outboard end of the bracket to a rope clutch on either side of the roof structure should keep things stable. Safely out of the way, this could run during the day as well. If that falls short, add whatever tidal hydro you can find or build.
Throw a prop guard on you watersnake. If it can drive your hulls to the 2-3kt @ 50%-60% throttle, you're probably good to go.
Have I mentioned my affinity for a certain line of blue, mppt charge controllers with BT and logging? 😂 testing setups, placement etc with real-time readings on an app beats the crap out of running back and forth to check a meter.
I saw an experimental electric airplane conversion a while back that used a bunch of small props along the wing. I'd have to look, but I think it was a NASA. That says something.
One approach would be to go with a sizeable battery bank, 4x 12v/100ah charged by the solar array during the day with the bulk of the charging taking place overnight by a couple 400w-500w vertical turbine wind generators. Stow or lock the rotor as necessary, using neutrik or similar conn if stowing . A receiver on deck for a mast, swing out bracket from the roof or, I bet you could make a bracket to fit sail track and run one up the mast with a halyard. Lines from the outboard end of the bracket to a rope clutch on either side of the roof structure should keep things stable. Safely out of the way, this could run during the day as well. If that falls short, add whatever tidal hydro you can find or build.
Throw a prop guard on you watersnake. If it can drive your hulls to the 2-3kt @ 50%-60% throttle, you're probably good to go.
Have I mentioned my affinity for a certain line of blue, mppt charge controllers with BT and logging? 😂 testing setups, placement etc with real-time readings on an app beats the crap out of running back and forth to check a meter.
Found this good vid of my hull model crossing a wake. It's pretty seaworthy. Mine are getting foam filled to survey grade. See why I keep mentioning engine trim ability as must? A wing foil at the prop and trim would keep a set attitude and engage the forefoot more. I have some experience designing a tuned level of displacement/planing underway
The hulls are very low displacement. I had already given up on a 4x battery array and thinking about shedding more weight. Every bracket, bolt and such will mean less audio
Been taking a long hard look at Lithium-ion ebike batteries, specifically this one from Lanplus
48v 20AH high discharge ebike battery
Trying to work out how quickly this can be charged back up by the EVRE
48v 5kw petrol range extender for EV
And how long to recharge via 300w average via prop/waterwheel regen
As well, via 400w average wind generator
Possibly 400w via solar if my panels work on the water
Is it ok to have this list connected to the 48v ebike battery bus at the same time and most working at the same time?
EVRE
Solar MPPT charge controller
Wind charge controller
Ebike controller with regen
DC-DC up converter for audio amp modules
DC-DC down converter for audio head unit, sounder/GPS and such
In an attempt at a system that looks after its own charge from what's available via solar, wind and regen at the same time while the craft is drawing power? With the EVRE kicking in if the battery goes down when the generators are not facing ideal charge conditions
Only looking at cruise discharge numbers of around 2-3 knots and 96dB average max onboard SPL
There is one more load item that might be significant. It will always be on with the rest of the gear. There will be some low output cabin LED's and a high output spotlight and medium output bar light for fishing and such. I'll have to find links to the item that I already have, except for the spotlight. Some party lights would be appropriate too
Raymarine Axiom+ 9 RV
These above are the guts of the power system and the non thrust loads. It would better for me to build all the controllers and such into the levels of protection they need. Things like the ebike controllers and down converters are waterproof already. As is the Axiom+RV and the marine head unit. I have seen wind charge controllers are waterproof so that makes it easy, Only ones left are the solar MPPT, laptop, TPA3255 dual-core modules and power buses
The Axiom is better flush mounted to secure the plugs from exposure for daily use. Brackets are also clunky and cables best hidden. This can be flush mounted in the cockpit area together with all the waterproof controllers behind that panel. Maybe even the solar MPPT would be ok here. It would only flood if capsized. So basically a dashboard with all those items and maybe the head unit as well
The amp modules, I am thinking to flood the PCBs with epoxy. Full encapsulation up to over the flat of the heat sinks and painted in multiple layers over the caps and inductors. Including lead ends in the screw down connectors with good quality tinned wires and waterproof connectors as terminations. These might be okay behind that dash panel too once marinised like this
This leaves the laptop and user interface. I am thinking a flat transport case here that is water tight and has access to get at the laptop, Yamaha MG06mk2 mixer and stored phone inside. So a rectangular waterproof lid will do. On top of this lid, maybe 2-3 10" touchscreens as the user interface in conjunction with a mouse. DJ decks to display on the panel and also things like DAW. A minimum 32" screen will be needed as the main display
This is already a lot of gear to optimise for such a small craft
The hulls are very low displacement. I had already given up on a 4x battery array and thinking about shedding more weight. Every bracket, bolt and such will mean less audio
Been taking a long hard look at Lithium-ion ebike batteries, specifically this one from Lanplus
48v 20AH high discharge ebike battery
Trying to work out how quickly this can be charged back up by the EVRE
48v 5kw petrol range extender for EV
And how long to recharge via 300w average via prop/waterwheel regen
As well, via 400w average wind generator
Possibly 400w via solar if my panels work on the water
Is it ok to have this list connected to the 48v ebike battery bus at the same time and most working at the same time?
EVRE
Solar MPPT charge controller
Wind charge controller
Ebike controller with regen
DC-DC up converter for audio amp modules
DC-DC down converter for audio head unit, sounder/GPS and such
In an attempt at a system that looks after its own charge from what's available via solar, wind and regen at the same time while the craft is drawing power? With the EVRE kicking in if the battery goes down when the generators are not facing ideal charge conditions
Only looking at cruise discharge numbers of around 2-3 knots and 96dB average max onboard SPL
There is one more load item that might be significant. It will always be on with the rest of the gear. There will be some low output cabin LED's and a high output spotlight and medium output bar light for fishing and such. I'll have to find links to the item that I already have, except for the spotlight. Some party lights would be appropriate too
Raymarine Axiom+ 9 RV
These above are the guts of the power system and the non thrust loads. It would better for me to build all the controllers and such into the levels of protection they need. Things like the ebike controllers and down converters are waterproof already. As is the Axiom+RV and the marine head unit. I have seen wind charge controllers are waterproof so that makes it easy, Only ones left are the solar MPPT, laptop, TPA3255 dual-core modules and power buses
The Axiom is better flush mounted to secure the plugs from exposure for daily use. Brackets are also clunky and cables best hidden. This can be flush mounted in the cockpit area together with all the waterproof controllers behind that panel. Maybe even the solar MPPT would be ok here. It would only flood if capsized. So basically a dashboard with all those items and maybe the head unit as well
The amp modules, I am thinking to flood the PCBs with epoxy. Full encapsulation up to over the flat of the heat sinks and painted in multiple layers over the caps and inductors. Including lead ends in the screw down connectors with good quality tinned wires and waterproof connectors as terminations. These might be okay behind that dash panel too once marinised like this
This leaves the laptop and user interface. I am thinking a flat transport case here that is water tight and has access to get at the laptop, Yamaha MG06mk2 mixer and stored phone inside. So a rectangular waterproof lid will do. On top of this lid, maybe 2-3 10" touchscreens as the user interface in conjunction with a mouse. DJ decks to display on the panel and also things like DAW. A minimum 32" screen will be needed as the main display
This is already a lot of gear to optimise for such a small craft
I know I promised to not ponder alternative future power but cant help my self
This one is the type of mech and wheels I am talking about. Made from EVA sheet layers and TPU blades. One around 30" will fit nicely between the hulls
This one is the slasher shaft drive that I am scared off. I imagine a BLDC with an ebike controller with regen on this shaft. This would be the most efficient way to deliver and make power from the water. As the motor to shaft can be on pulleys via toothed belt drive and ratios can be mixed and matched. Even a series stepped pulley can be printed or machined or even ordered from Ali to have different ratios for various conditions and such
This one is the type of mech and wheels I am talking about. Made from EVA sheet layers and TPU blades. One around 30" will fit nicely between the hulls
This one is the slasher shaft drive that I am scared off. I imagine a BLDC with an ebike controller with regen on this shaft. This would be the most efficient way to deliver and make power from the water. As the motor to shaft can be on pulleys via toothed belt drive and ratios can be mixed and matched. Even a series stepped pulley can be printed or machined or even ordered from Ali to have different ratios for various conditions and such
The battery charge current max is the limiting factor. 5A , so 4 hours...
Considering Lithium ion?
Considering Lithium ion?
Not specifically. Just a high end high discharge bank around 2kw that can charge as quickly as the EVRE can manage. Like what's in the Toyota hybrids
Instead of building a huge, heavy bank of batteries. A smaller super capacitor type might be lighter and more practical
Some updates
Looks like I already have one of the fastest charging option and also looks like buying the largest numbers that I could afford has paid off!
Spoke to the technician at Lanplus today. He was very enthusiastic and helpful and took the time to explain the following
Lithium-ion batteries are too slow for my quick recharge needs. The 12v 100AH LiFePO4 that I got from them is a high end type and with a comprehensive type BMS. It can be fully charged in one hour, has a 100A max charge rating so according to the tech as long as I limit the charge current to 14.6v 100A then all is well with the battery
It has a 100A continuous discharge and 200A peak for 3 seconds before the BMS will limit the discharge to 100A
Good time to bring the towing vehicle into this thread. A Subaru XV. A Taramps 2000.2 class D monobloc is showing as now 30km away after leaving Brazil a few days ago. The car is getting a pair of 3.5" full ranges up on the dash and 6.5" subs in the doors, plus a few different subs will get a run in the boot with the Taramps 2kw coming in. The amp for the fronts is a 2R per channel capable JL Audio XD400/4. I think I will use two of its channels per each door sub. Will get a small amp for the FR drivers on the dash, maybe even from the head unit and crossed about 300hz from the door 'subs' which would cover from about 60hz up
Looks like I already have one of the fastest charging option and also looks like buying the largest numbers that I could afford has paid off!
Spoke to the technician at Lanplus today. He was very enthusiastic and helpful and took the time to explain the following
Lithium-ion batteries are too slow for my quick recharge needs. The 12v 100AH LiFePO4 that I got from them is a high end type and with a comprehensive type BMS. It can be fully charged in one hour, has a 100A max charge rating so according to the tech as long as I limit the charge current to 14.6v 100A then all is well with the battery
It has a 100A continuous discharge and 200A peak for 3 seconds before the BMS will limit the discharge to 100A
Good time to bring the towing vehicle into this thread. A Subaru XV. A Taramps 2000.2 class D monobloc is showing as now 30km away after leaving Brazil a few days ago. The car is getting a pair of 3.5" full ranges up on the dash and 6.5" subs in the doors, plus a few different subs will get a run in the boot with the Taramps 2kw coming in. The amp for the fronts is a 2R per channel capable JL Audio XD400/4. I think I will use two of its channels per each door sub. Will get a small amp for the FR drivers on the dash, maybe even from the head unit and crossed about 300hz from the door 'subs' which would cover from about 60hz up
The tech from Lanplus also recommended this battery for the car audio
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3554290...XDP3JF&hash=item52c1393a03:g:GocAAOSw2O5lwDTe
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3554290...XDP3JF&hash=item52c1393a03:g:GocAAOSw2O5lwDTe
My 2kw car amp arrived today 😀
Something is delaying the solar panels, they show as bing last scanned from Gold Coast to Maryborough which is 30kms away but nothing since then and that was on the 14th. Vendor is looking into it. My amp modules also seem to be held up at Maryborough depot for some reason
Starting on the cross-beams today. We have a reuse centre here. Will look for an aluminium roof caddy try thing that the large 4WDs have. Will give me a solid floor structure for $20 if I am lucky
Something is delaying the solar panels, they show as bing last scanned from Gold Coast to Maryborough which is 30kms away but nothing since then and that was on the 14th. Vendor is looking into it. My amp modules also seem to be held up at Maryborough depot for some reason
Starting on the cross-beams today. We have a reuse centre here. Will look for an aluminium roof caddy try thing that the large 4WDs have. Will give me a solid floor structure for $20 if I am lucky
Keeping the option of starting with a BLDC motor open. Trying to figure out how would I wire up the following
12v 100AH LiFePO4 to DC-DC up converter to 48v 500w ebike controller to 500w hub motor
This much is easy enough. But how do I get regen back to the battery with the DC-DC converter in the way?
Only thing I can think of is to use two DC-DC converters. The first one from the battery to the ebike controller set to convert input voltage (12v LiFePO4) to 48v for the controller
Then the second converter from the controller to the battery and set to input voltage (regen voltage at the controller's battery terminals) to 14.6v DC to the battery as charge voltage
Does this create a killer loop for something? Lost as to how to rig this up
12v 100AH LiFePO4 to DC-DC up converter to 48v 500w ebike controller to 500w hub motor
This much is easy enough. But how do I get regen back to the battery with the DC-DC converter in the way?
Only thing I can think of is to use two DC-DC converters. The first one from the battery to the ebike controller set to convert input voltage (12v LiFePO4) to 48v for the controller
Then the second converter from the controller to the battery and set to input voltage (regen voltage at the controller's battery terminals) to 14.6v DC to the battery as charge voltage
Does this create a killer loop for something? Lost as to how to rig this up
A visit to a more appropriate forum might help here. thehulltruth.com is one of many but I've found some knowledge, experienced folks participating in the electronics forum. My first step would be to determine the feasibility of prop- driven regen 2-3 knots. Simply dropping a free-spinning prop into a similar tidal current might be eye opening.
Unless the design/build of your ebike based setup is more of a fun challenge than one of practical concerns, currently deployed solutions are worth looking into. I'm referring to design considerations rather than exacting equipment choices. Creative DIY implementation from that point is more straightforward than reinventing the wheel.
Every cruising boat out there has the same base requirements as your project. Charging a battery/battery bank from multiple sources is well sussed out. Even in my small local marina, dozens of boats run solar, wind and an onboard genset. Manual or auto switching of a working layout will have conventional, practical means in wide use but the possibilities are endless. Micro controllers/micro computers offer endless possibilities. Old school relay logic is the low tech, high reliability answer to providing conditional operation based on any number of inputs. I use RLogic for custom one-off control situations. When a client starts off with "I'm not sure if it's possible, but can...?" I have to fight off the urge to blurt out YES , before they've finished. The answer is always yes, the fun ones are yes, let me give it some thought get back to you.
Unless the design/build of your ebike based setup is more of a fun challenge than one of practical concerns, currently deployed solutions are worth looking into. I'm referring to design considerations rather than exacting equipment choices. Creative DIY implementation from that point is more straightforward than reinventing the wheel.
Every cruising boat out there has the same base requirements as your project. Charging a battery/battery bank from multiple sources is well sussed out. Even in my small local marina, dozens of boats run solar, wind and an onboard genset. Manual or auto switching of a working layout will have conventional, practical means in wide use but the possibilities are endless. Micro controllers/micro computers offer endless possibilities. Old school relay logic is the low tech, high reliability answer to providing conditional operation based on any number of inputs. I use RLogic for custom one-off control situations. When a client starts off with "I'm not sure if it's possible, but can...?" I have to fight off the urge to blurt out YES , before they've finished. The answer is always yes, the fun ones are yes, let me give it some thought get back to you.
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Thanks for sharing your thoughts on this. Spent the last few days at the beach in the area of use and watching the beach cats race and all the in water revelry
It will be fun and more satisfying with us audio enthusiasts making this happen., In time, I am sure that between my experimenting and some assistance from fellows on here, we will have some fun and somehow get there
Trying very hard also to find some maybe types options and systems for new areas and presenting them together with any queries, only way to learn and not mimic
At the moment with the beach cat, I am also spending from hobby funds which is basically what I can avoid spending on tobacco, takeaway coffee and food by taking my own and other savings like making clothes and shoes go a long way. Paypal with pay in 4 really helps one item at a time
Anyway, getting back to some more observations. I think any form of prop at the stern is out as a permanent fixture. I may have to look at a 4 stroke jet outboard as the main drive. A 4hp will do just fine and the eBay one is getting a pretty good rep at a very good price, so maybe one on each hull would be good
A paddlewheel on the other hand is looking like a good option for electric cruise
Used to be a long term member on some but walked away after a handful of enlightened types made it impossible for any newcomers to get any traction. Also tired of Woods plans being shoved into every thread. Another charter operator friend and I helped a 'name' designer create the format for the ultimate 30' casting platform for the inshore GT and tuna popping trend and shortly after he went around rubbishing my own design in HDPE that was the forerunner. This followed by a general decline in the forums and the passing away of some of the gems made them a bit of a pathetic shadow of the hey days. I have also retired from forums which I used to sponsor as a vendor or run. These days only feel comfortable with audio types enthusiast DIYers
It will be fun and more satisfying with us audio enthusiasts making this happen., In time, I am sure that between my experimenting and some assistance from fellows on here, we will have some fun and somehow get there
Trying very hard also to find some maybe types options and systems for new areas and presenting them together with any queries, only way to learn and not mimic
At the moment with the beach cat, I am also spending from hobby funds which is basically what I can avoid spending on tobacco, takeaway coffee and food by taking my own and other savings like making clothes and shoes go a long way. Paypal with pay in 4 really helps one item at a time
Anyway, getting back to some more observations. I think any form of prop at the stern is out as a permanent fixture. I may have to look at a 4 stroke jet outboard as the main drive. A 4hp will do just fine and the eBay one is getting a pretty good rep at a very good price, so maybe one on each hull would be good
A paddlewheel on the other hand is looking like a good option for electric cruise
It's usually a 4 knot current that runs along the beach, and full out rushing can be much higher depending on the tides. This is between the beach and the first sandbar. Beyond this it can be a torrent at full outrunning and where it rushes through the pier pylons, it creates a visual torrent along with the sound and sways the 850m long pier at the south end of the beach. 4m tides. It's an inside beach, so not much in the way of swell. Does become a whitewash when stirred up by the northerlies
To add to the previous note, a lot of hands in the water, potentially reaching for the craft and swimming around it. Walking along the hulls and what not. I need to make this thing very safe for everyone around it
If not for regen, the well shrouded marine outboard BLDC one that I linked earlier would be fine. It would be easy just to run with this but really am enjoying the challenge and the concept of regen. It will be very satisfying to make it happen and enable this craft to be able to extract as much energy as it expands in its surrounding and working elements
I keep saying we as I am hoping to be able to bounce off some of these ideas off DIYers on here. I would also be very lost in properly measuring and gauging the results and proceedings
Let's do exactly that and test it properly. A 250w system with a waterwheel and an actual ebike controller with regen. We can borrow from the parts bin of another project and if this works well. Just a simple timber setup for a few days on the water to test things
I think you get me if you are saying that. I have the fail safes for the work vehicles. There is a different budget for them and the 30hp + the Watersnake already put aside for the larger vessel. Serious work on the larger vessel will start next Feb. Until then the beach cat is to have some fun trying out tinkering and such while starting work promoting the PA/DJ hire things as soon as the subs are on board it
Blurt away man, let's go for the fun answer for now and turn up the fun factor even further with how the regen will be tested. I will have some fun stuff to show later 😀