DAC AD1862: Almost THT, I2S input, NOS, R-2R

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#9,062
If I am not wrong several USB to PCM includes also SPIDF input : Wave I/O does that and I think The JLSOUNDS too (at least the first V3 had an option with two vias to connect a spidf if my memory is correct, check before on their site). Maybe the day you want to try usb input that sounds way better (SPIDF is very a limitation for better sound).

If just coping with spidf : DIR9001if you have the NLA chip , the others if the pcb is already made to avoid problems . All that chips are close enough on the spec, subjectivly some prefered the DIR9001 back then the days of spidf coax !
 
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#9,071
diyiggy said:
The LM6171 is a sorta of better sounding nice to the hear than old op5534. It was often talked at a drop replacement of the 5534 w/o tweaking parts arounds.

If you read the thread there are some advices about the parts to mod, actives and passives. It is more important that one thinks.

After the logical thing is to try some other op amp that support stilll to be socketed as well as the LM6171, not so evident. the opa1655and 4998-1, AD711 is maybe the step after without harder tweak. Then comes all the mods with dedicated PCBS : opa861, AD811, tube, traffo... I 'll try in that order.

On the front side, you can also if at hand try the I2StoPCM IanCanada board that handles the logic instead of the registers. I think it has the clock stop option and you may or not hear a difference. (some prefer for instance a direct stream from an I2StoPCB that can handle the logic too - JLS USB to I2s, but the IanCanada is better thanks to the Crysteks or better fento crystal choice.

Try to drop a nearer picture of the ad1862 board too in order some can see more details about the parts, maybe some will be inspirered (everyone has his own sauce)
Click to expand...

Thank you @diyiggy. Most if not all components are from Vunce BOM. All electrolytics (except to 6800uF in PSU) are Panasonic FR. The grey 0.1uF caps are Kemet R79IC3100Z340J. Shift registers bypass Kemet C320C104K1R5TA7301.

In my experience passive elements can make improvement but it's more like fine tuning. I am happy to try though 🙂
 

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#9,073
Not by all, at least ! Jitter are around the same.

@Seavan , yes it is more about icing on the cake. But it is not too expensive to try, a little adaptation can make it more listenable, Though.

Do You find the sound lacking a little of high for instance or clarity (ligth I mean). It is hard to know w/o listening to. What is missing and what is too much (briefly, please) ? Also ask Vunce, hes has heard many different setups and can at least helps on the active I/V by helping you relative by your descriptions, but very hard to know w/o listening oneself. We have all different devices around the DAC. I would say if it is too much below your expectation, stop before waisting monney for nothing. You could try to listen to the Holo Cyan 2 in someonelse hifi to have a different benchmark for ears than your on self DAC and the AD1862, and see what is liked. The Cyan is around a grand andhalf if I am not wrong and diy can fastly cost too much (and have almost not second hand value)

Pan FR also around the op amp ?
 
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#9,074
Not really, out of the bunch, only wm8804/5 has fractional-N DPLL clock recovery. Dir9001 has low jitter as well, but lower SR. Also someone i belive measured both, and wm actually keeps at its ds value of ~50ps, while Dir goes significantly out of value. Dir was used more frequently due to ease of implementation.

I prefer usb, but people are sometimes locked into streamers with spdif/toslink output only...
 
#9,078
@diyiggy I know its hard to understand without listening. It's hard to explain as well 🙂 I do not like too much highs and many times solid state gear sounds too harsh to me.

I started writing my sound impression by memory and decided to listen again. I have to say it sounds significantly better after 24 hours breaking in, actually unbelievably better 🙂 The difference with PWD is not as striking anymore and I actually might prefer this DAC now. I have to withold my opinion for couple more days to allow for more break-in.

Definitely want to try other IV options. I expect that my diy dac journey is going to end up costing significantly more than getting an off-the-shelf dac. It's a cost of the journey and a big part of fun for me 🙂 and I think for most of us here.
 
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#9,079
rehanabid said:
Dear @miro1360 I could not seem to find the gerber and schematics of the following PSU, it was working fine with my DAC but one of the +12 side fried and its rectifiers are heating up so I want to fix it but cant seem to find the schemativs and the gerber, appreciate if you could help, thanks.

diyAudio_PSU1_TDA1541A_2022

View attachment 1340969
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Schematic is in this post 🙂
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...s-input-nos-r-2r.354078/page-268#post-7159234
 
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#9,080
dantwomey said:
Reviewing some SPDIF choices for my AD1862

DIR9001

Two-Way Digital Interface Module SPDIF I2S Analog PCM9211

USB-I2S-2 PCM2706+WM8804, almost THT Post #2249

Digital Input Selector AK4118 SPDIF x4 USBx1 20 pin to I2S output With screen

Other choices?

Regards,
Dan 😎
Click to expand...
I would say that PCM9211 looks serious, I see it for the first time 🤔 jitter is the same as for other WM880x (intrinsic) or cirrus or akm converters, the price is unbeatable, try it 🙂
DIR9001 is also good one, still in the production, WM880x are both obsolete now 🙁
 
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