I have found that classical music (vinyl) is the best test for audio components -- even if it not your taste. Get a good analog DG release from the 70s with full orchestra and give it a whirl. Does help to have a MC cartridge and quality turntable. Have been listening to my classical albums for the last week with the P3 and the phonopre is remarkable in its ability to bring back the music in these (sometimes) tired recordings. Makes them listenable if tired and impressive if clean.
There is SO much more content and audio data in a full orchestral recording you deserve to give it a try. Also it is interesting to switch over to high-quality digital after a day with the P3. Immediately I think "oh, oh, somethings wrong here..."
There is SO much more content and audio data in a full orchestral recording you deserve to give it a try. Also it is interesting to switch over to high-quality digital after a day with the P3. Immediately I think "oh, oh, somethings wrong here..."
I find that evaluating new gear is best done with simple stuff to start, usually acoustic in nature, often use Jacintha Georgia, Patricia Barber or Fairfield Four These Bones, and progress to more complex music. Though in the end if its what you're really familiar with and listen to mostly.....
@mhenschel Thank you for correcting me, I don't like spreading misinformation, should have been more thorough!
He'll still outlive us all!
He'll still outlive us all!
Nope. The resistors you have are completely fine for this, no worries at all. Ive built entire projects with the amazon pack resistors, they work great.
You can run it that way forever and it not matter. If you soldered another resistor in series to make the "perfect"
value, that is 100% great and means the resistor is setting the ideal current. Neat!
Is it worthwhile? Of course! It's adjusting/setting a specification that the circuit designer intended. Do you have to? No, but as it's so easy to tweak, what's holding you back?
Increased current could if course introduce more current noise, and when using MC, you want to stack the deck in your favor as much as you can.
Yes, you could, though it adds a layer of complexity to measuring the current as you'll need to know the pot's value at the measured position, or clip into the circuit and measure current directly, instead of measure voltage and do the math for each fixed resistor value. There is no right or wrong way, whatever works for you.
There is no "settling in", except if you mean "coming up to operating temperature", and anyway, it's in the feedback loop, so won't make all that much difference from cold to warm.
As I said I need to move things around, but thought I would throw this out there. The hum is at 120Hz, and is present on the any input, the PSU is on top of my SuperNait 3 but 8" separation does nothing. The hum goes away when I power the P3 down, it bypasses the SN's mute and is only somewhat volume dependent.
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Patricia Barber, Blue Cafe 😊, The drum solo on Nardis, exceptional recording, was very good, nice attack, nice localization of the various drums, cymbal has nice qualities without getting trashy. I started with impedance set to 100 ohms and am currently at 250 for my Hana Umami Blue, sounds pretty good there, more playing to be done.
Could be a few things 😉, would not having the top panels on potentially cause it? And it somehow being induced into the SN as it doesn't matter which input. I'll probably have to go through my grounds, but kind of enjoying it right now.
As an aside, while not uncommon I rarely experience 120 Hz hum in systems. Are there general reasons to get 120 Hz vs 60 Hz?
As an aside, while not uncommon I rarely experience 120 Hz hum in systems. Are there general reasons to get 120 Hz vs 60 Hz?
Hello All,
You do not need a 4.5 digit Digital volt meter to set the current through R27. Any handy handheld $25 meter will do.
I like to avoid reworking parts on the PCB.
This is a recommendation: use a little lever operated clamping socket with a audio-wind Resistor Decade Board with a 9 or 12 volt battery. The in P-3 circuit voltage will be slightly lower.
You can swap and or match JFETS and or select a resistor value to obtain any constant current that you want.
See the links below for the very inexpensive tools om my bench.
https://www.amazon.com/PATIKIL-Universal-Microcontroller-Breadboard-Program/dp/B0BWN5K142/ref=sr_1_4?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.Gg45yLBFb4yIuM_BaCd-Jm76NsFsgvVWJ0LPoN5xOqrrdLkt6NPEmL--vuR3dhoTU81LKhn620HRiljf2HlRTP_PHdXY9jyCOLEBo1tUEKlhnQvkSpr5xxSbFMxIcYs7XZ0HlEBu02vNGebLGjlXcDsEVICkQml41Id8XDZSf8n1ne636u556VTF3irGkKHyeDhnu0AAB9B8WI-SZdNw0_wdKLTd0ZY39oygdsNUWGM.PgpMv4IjiXg8l58V-vb702SBQ3LAZAx20ecJQ0dvSSs&dib_tag=se&keywords=ZIF+Socket&qid=1718134532&sr=8-4&th=1
https://www.ebay.com/itm/296252854673?itmmeta=01J04DQMXMK46X20BGRDD2KHG6&hash=item44fa0bd191:g:-H8AAOSwBihl3Rky&itmprp=enc:AQAJAAAA4Dhbu0Nko8Mt91i0YYEtHPs0I126Zj12ihHgqu15EyvuV+UwPXmTs9yr84otYhxJVT9WsKjfOTexskaM4d6mh/WQCn7U35RPFgh4Pi++nHQEK3jb8M/TPgRphuFJA9Ao5eHkQT17TH7fD8wCi6KQrZc3FJMnIWErEemW/dGMP4b5UgVBa3G3EmFuIaDMTIzyqpxUF1x3lT3YyXAdZyq4Wkny0oLn0DvFy641ft7zCsb5Ny1dfWiqkmUoFpK9uyJhk3KgTTkz6oiuiLLgz+999BwzsS/a0zNpe0VxVkFoCjqy|tkp:BFBM9M7ejYFk
The PF5102 is the same 51 process JFET as the J112
This plot shows that the input voltage does not effect the output current, as in constant current
Thanks DT
You do not need a 4.5 digit Digital volt meter to set the current through R27. Any handy handheld $25 meter will do.
I like to avoid reworking parts on the PCB.
This is a recommendation: use a little lever operated clamping socket with a audio-wind Resistor Decade Board with a 9 or 12 volt battery. The in P-3 circuit voltage will be slightly lower.
You can swap and or match JFETS and or select a resistor value to obtain any constant current that you want.
See the links below for the very inexpensive tools om my bench.
https://www.amazon.com/PATIKIL-Universal-Microcontroller-Breadboard-Program/dp/B0BWN5K142/ref=sr_1_4?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.Gg45yLBFb4yIuM_BaCd-Jm76NsFsgvVWJ0LPoN5xOqrrdLkt6NPEmL--vuR3dhoTU81LKhn620HRiljf2HlRTP_PHdXY9jyCOLEBo1tUEKlhnQvkSpr5xxSbFMxIcYs7XZ0HlEBu02vNGebLGjlXcDsEVICkQml41Id8XDZSf8n1ne636u556VTF3irGkKHyeDhnu0AAB9B8WI-SZdNw0_wdKLTd0ZY39oygdsNUWGM.PgpMv4IjiXg8l58V-vb702SBQ3LAZAx20ecJQ0dvSSs&dib_tag=se&keywords=ZIF+Socket&qid=1718134532&sr=8-4&th=1
https://www.ebay.com/itm/296252854673?itmmeta=01J04DQMXMK46X20BGRDD2KHG6&hash=item44fa0bd191:g:-H8AAOSwBihl3Rky&itmprp=enc:AQAJAAAA4Dhbu0Nko8Mt91i0YYEtHPs0I126Zj12ihHgqu15EyvuV+UwPXmTs9yr84otYhxJVT9WsKjfOTexskaM4d6mh/WQCn7U35RPFgh4Pi++nHQEK3jb8M/TPgRphuFJA9Ao5eHkQT17TH7fD8wCi6KQrZc3FJMnIWErEemW/dGMP4b5UgVBa3G3EmFuIaDMTIzyqpxUF1x3lT3YyXAdZyq4Wkny0oLn0DvFy641ft7zCsb5Ny1dfWiqkmUoFpK9uyJhk3KgTTkz6oiuiLLgz+999BwzsS/a0zNpe0VxVkFoCjqy|tkp:BFBM9M7ejYFk
The PF5102 is the same 51 process JFET as the J112
This plot shows that the input voltage does not effect the output current, as in constant current
Thanks DT
Um…
Audible hum issues are indicative that something isn’t correct, so you really should track it down and figure where the missing connection is.
The low hanging fruit -
Do you have electrical continuity from the ground post to every chassis panel?
Are the RCAs all isolated from chassis?
Is the umbilical wires properly? (Exactly as in the guide)
Is the PSU grounded properly?
As usual, the standard request will go out… please post a series of well-lit, in focus photos so we can put the hive mind to work and get your phonostage gloriously quiet.
🙂
^ oh, no doubt, just wanted to eliminate the chassis as being part of the problem. I do have more data points, but 1 thing that seems odd, the hum is there if I switch off the PEM, have to disconnect the AC cord. Some preliminary measurements, the voltage at the pins from the DIN out of the PSU:
1->2 23.4V
2->3 23.5 V
3->4 23.5 V
4->1 23.5 V
4->2 47.2 V
1->2 23.4V
2->3 23.5 V
3->4 23.5 V
4->1 23.5 V
4->2 47.2 V
Well, I ran into ground hum as well. If I connect the RCA from turntable to Pearl 3, there's an audible ground hum above 50% volume on Korg B1. With RCAs disconnected, but Pearl 3 still powered on, ground him is gone, but there's a whooshing sound that is very different (like white noise) that sounds like the ocean off in the distance. If I power off the Pearl 3, dead silent. I hear only the wiper on the Alps pot and a tiny ring from the Korg microphones. I also blew out the LEDs as that darn + got me when I was soldering up the wires...dodo move.
To add to the above, I went to play the first record anyway, and the turntable (Pioneer PL-600, which hasn't been used in over a decade appeared to be broke. The record doesn't spin and I can hear the motor running inside, so probably a failed belt. I opened it up and where the belt should be is a strange black sticky goo resembling roofing sealant (the belt has turned back into goo, some sort of plasma slime that only isopropyl can remove from fingers). The audio gods are not pleased with me.
And to top this all off a darn mosquito keeps buzzing in my ear as I type this all out with two fingers on a phone
I have failed gloriously on so many levels.
I can post some more pics if that's helpful for the "whooshing ocean white noise". When I check for continuity with PEM ground, all chassis points are good between both chassis with umbilical. I also get continuity between PEM ground (chassis ground) and the RCA(s) ground and board ground. Is this as expected? I feel like it is, but perhaps I'm wrong here.
I did have one question about the rail voltages. The +V = 22.00 , and the -V = -22.78VDC. Is it OK that they are not closer to being equal and opposite?
Last thing to note. If I put my ear to the Amgis transformer, I can hear an audible ground hum.
I appreciate any help folks can provide. Thank you!
To add to the above, I went to play the first record anyway, and the turntable (Pioneer PL-600, which hasn't been used in over a decade appeared to be broke. The record doesn't spin and I can hear the motor running inside, so probably a failed belt. I opened it up and where the belt should be is a strange black sticky goo resembling roofing sealant (the belt has turned back into goo, some sort of plasma slime that only isopropyl can remove from fingers). The audio gods are not pleased with me.
And to top this all off a darn mosquito keeps buzzing in my ear as I type this all out with two fingers on a phone
I have failed gloriously on so many levels.
I can post some more pics if that's helpful for the "whooshing ocean white noise". When I check for continuity with PEM ground, all chassis points are good between both chassis with umbilical. I also get continuity between PEM ground (chassis ground) and the RCA(s) ground and board ground. Is this as expected? I feel like it is, but perhaps I'm wrong here.
I did have one question about the rail voltages. The +V = 22.00 , and the -V = -22.78VDC. Is it OK that they are not closer to being equal and opposite?
Last thing to note. If I put my ear to the Amgis transformer, I can hear an audible ground hum.
I appreciate any help folks can provide. Thank you!
Attachments
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whooshhumwhoosh present with turntable actually connected to Pearl input?
and, at least functional phono cartridge in that ttable, even if not spinning?
and, at least functional phono cartridge in that ttable, even if not spinning?
The woosh (white noise) is only audible with turntable disconnected. It's possible it's still there when turntable is connected, but drowned out buy the ground hum.
The last time the turntable was used it functioned properly, but that was over 10 years ago. I can't say with certainty that the cartridge works. I had assumed it was fully functional when ordering the Pearl 3. I should probably have just bought my mom a newer, and much nicer turntable as step 1.
The last time the turntable was used it functioned properly, but that was over 10 years ago. I can't say with certainty that the cartridge works. I had assumed it was fully functional when ordering the Pearl 3. I should probably have just bought my mom a newer, and much nicer turntable as step 1.
