Perhaps above graphs explain why I like better sound of Z8 through IP.
Anyway Eversolo DAC Z8 is a damned good device, especially for that money.
Yet, if we make some magic, it can be better.
IP is the very best toy ever!
Anyway Eversolo DAC Z8 is a damned good device, especially for that money.
Yet, if we make some magic, it can be better.
IP is the very best toy ever!
Proof by opinion or no proof by measurement, I was taken back at the sound of this unit. I was necessarily expecting anything out of the ordinary, but it gave me ideas about building the rest of the unit that I wouldn't have considered before I heard it. Should have ordered those necessary long before I did. The wait is still on. When something performs at this level, you want to not skimp on other parts.
@Gyuri , considering that you have Bal IP, write which mode of input and which mode of output was for each graph
edit - nice to see that you have practically nothing at 100Hz there
anyhow, how measurement compares when you use just EMU, both for signal and for analysis, without fancypancy Eversolo?
edit - nice to see that you have practically nothing at 100Hz there
anyhow, how measurement compares when you use just EMU, both for signal and for analysis, without fancypancy Eversolo?
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I transpose #'s / letters all the time... so it took me 1/2 a step to equate Cx (Mark's article) => CS (on Iron Pre Schematic) and Cs to CS1. If I got that right... 🙂
Using the standard .15uF and .01uF for snubber, I am confused regarding the markings on the motherboard. Are you saying that CS and CSx would take .15uF, and CS1 and CS1x would take .01uF on the balanced boards?
if you're familiar with Quasimodo test and procedure, just compare Quasimodo basic snubber block with appropriate snubber blocks on Iron Pre and devise your own conclusion regarding placement
no need to depend of anyone else for such simple things
reminder - ignore Quasimodo if you have first batch of pcbs - ZM ooked badly, snubber arrangement is not good - one snubber block across entire center tapped secondary, so easy to recognize
from second batch everything is OK - each side of secondary is having own dedicated snubbers, as it should be ...... also easy to recognize
no need to depend of anyone else for such simple things
reminder - ignore Quasimodo if you have first batch of pcbs - ZM ooked badly, snubber arrangement is not good - one snubber block across entire center tapped secondary, so easy to recognize
from second batch everything is OK - each side of secondary is having own dedicated snubbers, as it should be ...... also easy to recognize
I took a look, and while being admittedly schematically challenged, it appears that CS1 and CS1* should be the .15 uF value. And, I figure I have a solid 50% chance of being correct.
If you have an empty PCB you don't need letters and numbers. A continuity or ohmmeter will do. Just look at Mark's Quasimodo pdf and schematic. C2 is 0.01uF and C3 is 0.15uF. There is continuity between one pad of C2 with the adjacent pad of C3 right where the scope attaches. There is also continuity between one pad of RV1 and an adjacent pad of C3. If I've said it right from there you should be able to figure out which capacitor is which. The PCB does not lie.
@aljordan
You've looked it up, and I was away from a computer. Let's see if we can improve your odds. Here ya go. I have a tough time transposing numbers / letters. It's best for me to use a color-coded pic to describe what I mean. Note further below... someone with trouble transposing numbers / letters may have already asked ZM to update the schematic (and silkscreen) to more closely align with Mark's document. See board renderings for new SMD. 😉
FWIW, I use a simple pneumonic to remember the placement: x is across. s is in series.
This is an updated section of the schematic for the Iron Pre V.4
Edited to add - I guess I should say... you had it correct. CS1 and CS1* are the "series" capacitors, which Mark recommends as 150nF => 0.15uF. 🙂
You've looked it up, and I was away from a computer. Let's see if we can improve your odds. Here ya go. I have a tough time transposing numbers / letters. It's best for me to use a color-coded pic to describe what I mean. Note further below... someone with trouble transposing numbers / letters may have already asked ZM to update the schematic (and silkscreen) to more closely align with Mark's document. See board renderings for new SMD. 😉
FWIW, I use a simple pneumonic to remember the placement: x is across. s is in series.
This is an updated section of the schematic for the Iron Pre V.4
Edited to add - I guess I should say... you had it correct. CS1 and CS1* are the "series" capacitors, which Mark recommends as 150nF => 0.15uF. 🙂
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Can using few JFET’s really be called “SMD boards”?Teaser Alert
Below are the renderings for the new SMD boards. They'll be the standard 2Oz copper / 2U Enig that diyAudio greedy boyz have grown to love…….
Maybe if all resistors, diodes and TO-92 actives were surface mount….now we’re talkin’😂
^ 100% it can be called SMD.
Super
Mega
Deluxe
Gotta ease people in...
Super
Mega
Deluxe
Gotta ease people in...

......
Maybe if all .........
My Zen is certainly big enough for that, but also smart enough to choose more pleasant ways..... when I'm for precise work, I'm rather dealing with tiny wires

few smd buggers per m^2 of pcb is just enough

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